[zonie77]

Here's Some additional info on what tools you will need(Thanks to Lawrence).

Originally Posted by Lawrence

In addition to Zonie's list you'll need a 4" three jaw puller for the crank pulley, a pulley puller for the water pump pulley (I got one at Harbour freight for $10.00), a 12mmX85mm (correct me here if I'm wrong) bolt to re-install the crank pulley, the allen socket Zonie mentions is a 10mm hex bit drive, you'll need alot of long 3/8 drive extensions and/or wooble extensions for getting the exhaust bolts when removing/installing the engine, and if you don't already have one make sure you get a good telescoping magnet (invaluble for the torque converter bolts). Also if you buy a used Timesert kit, make sure you have Loctite 266 and cutting oil on hand for the job. Don't use anything else. Also have some high quailty harness tape on hand as you will likely need to repair/redo the wiring harness.

The Northstar is as easy as any engine I have ever worked on and so is the Timesert process, as Zonie said. The valve timing is about idiot proof, no problems there. Just line up the timing marks on the crank and intermediate sprockets, install the inner (left chain ?) first by lining up cam sprocket timing marks 90 degrees (straight up) to the head (valve cover) surface. On the exaust cam make sure the "E" is up, on the intake cam the "I" is up. Either way the camshaft to camshaft sprocket "locating pin" is up. Make sure all marks are lined up with the chains tight. Thats all there is to it.

Do use OEM head gaskets, about $45 ea which includes the head bolts. Make sure the gasket and mating surfaces are clean and dry of oil before/while installing. As a personal addition I used RTV around the bottom of the head bolt washer. The top of it is factory sealed. I noted oil down the head bolts when I removed them.

Also as George recommened to me, plan on replacing the HVAC cover while the engine is out. It deteriorates from the rear exaust manifold. I also had to do the inner metal box as well. And while there clean/service the AC evaporator. They get plugged up and can't be done with the engine in the car.

I personally would recommend all new lower oil seals as well. That one got me and I had to pull the engine again. Don't worry much about the valve cover seals, or any other seals that can be replaced later with the engine in the car unless they are obviously bad. On mine I had to replace the intake manifold gaskets as they were shrunken and dried out. At least the ones that contact the head.

One other thing. To be safe, prime the oil system before starting the engine. Do this by pulling the smaller of the two connectors on the drivers side of the coil pack. This cuts power to the ignition. Make sure the battery is fully charged. Crank the motor for two or three 60 second sessions. Reconnect the plug, start the engine and watch the DIC for a low oil pressure warning.

Good Luck!