I have used these products with both street cars and a methanol fueled
dragster (no radiator, no water pump; just water and "wetter" in the block).
In the race car it helps, but keep in mind it's only running for a total of about a minute;
and then only 8 seconds in anger....
I have noticed a a slight improvement in temperature control in
a couple of hot rods with high performance engines & custom radiators.
In a stock Caddy, however, I don't think you need it. If a stocker is running hot
it's best to isolate the culprit and fix it. Water wetter won't cure a systemic problem.
my 2 cents
Various "water wetters" will not do a thing for a daily driver engine/cooling system. The 50/50 coolant mix plus a 16 psi pressure cap insures that the coolant will transfer max heat from the engine metal to the air.
Consider that, if your thermostat is set to begin opening at, say, 180 degrees, no amount of magic potion on earth will cool the engine to below 180. And any daily driver engine, run too cool, rapidly carbons up and develops oil sludge because nothing heats up enough to boil off the contaminated moisture and acids in the crankcase and oil itself. There are good and valid reasons for 180+ degree thermostats and PCV systems. (and short stop & go trips are the worst thing in the world for an engine. You get less oil and engine wear on a 1,000 mile Interstate trip to wherever than you get in two weeks of city driving.)
Here's what a 140 degree thermostat does to an engine........................
Thanks guys for the info!!! So a 140 degree thermostat is bad for your engine, is a 195 degree thermostat a great idea for your engine??
Cute, but maybe not. A gasoline engine seems happiest when operating at around 185 - 205 degrees. Most "180 degree" thermostats start opening about there and are fully open at about 200. Using 50/50 coolant and a 16 psi pressure cap raises the boiling point to 265 degrees - a 65 degree cushion. A 195 thermostat would run the engine at ~210, only a 55 degree boilover cushion.
A 180 degree 'stat runs the oil at ~190 - 220, the ideal temp to cool the reciprocating machinery and boil off moisture and acids. Running the oil hotter leads to breakdown as well as increased machinery temps. (NO coolant touches the crank, pistons, rods, chains, cam, lifters,etc. - only oil cools those parts.)
(As Ranger posted, run whatever 'stat the factory used originally. 195 seems a bit too hot for a pushrod engine............. whatever)