Cadillac Owners Forum banner

472, how to boost fuel economy?

91K views 167 replies 26 participants last post by  cadchris 
#1 ·
Hi

I have -69 De Ville. When i bought it, car was not maintained in ages and it had very bad fuel economy, 12MPG in road drive.

Well, I replaced old airfilter and oilfilter (+oil of course) with new ones and economy went little better (13MPG).

Is there any way to lower the MPG? I have heard some people get 17 or even 18MPG fuel comsumination? With todays gas prices (1,7€/litre here in Finland, if i calculated correctly, that would mean, 8,6$/gallon:bonkers:)

Maybe I should change some ignition components such as spark plugs and breaker points. At least those looked pretty old. Are there any differences between different sparkplugs? Can I get any benefit from sparkplugs like iridium or platinum with my mechanical ignition system, or should I just buy traditional plugs like AC Delco?

I think my ignition timing is too early (something like 30-50 degrees early). Does this effect much to fuel consume?

Second thing is the carburetor. I think I'm going to do some mainteance in there too and change at least the float needle valve. I checked my cars emissions in local garage, and they were very nice, so air/gas mixtures are fine. What other things I should change there?


Are there any other things what would affect to fuel economy? I dont have EGR, Pulse air systems or any other emission control equipment.

PS. Sorry if my english was bad
 
See less See more
#143 · (Edited)
The answer I got from the Metalurgist on that forum is what I expected and there is not a way to i.d. the "alloy's" (metal composition) of the block or distributor unless someone would submit it for lab analysis. But, one engineer eluded to the generalities of expansion rates which was at least my intention to see if someone would post a comment.
Heating the engine and cooling the distributor was my original idea and made sense due to the high expansion/contraction rates of aluminum, but in approaching the extreme in both directions concerned me which is why I wanted to ask the engineers on that forum regarding this or even less, (warmer) extreme variance in temps. One engineer did confirm my belief of cracking something due to thermal shock.

In the case of this heavy duty cast iron block, I seriously doubt it, but I'd be concerned of super-cooling the distributor to -300F+. with liquid nitrogen which I had a feeling at those temps would definitely cause alloy brittleness. But the availability of liquid nitrogen would also be a problem, which is why I thought of different compressed gasses "boiling point temps" (discharge temps) but most were in the -15 range like the easiest available of 134a Freon. Of course, other refrigerants are colder but hard to obtain and not legal to discharge into the open atmosphere like R22 or others:
http://www.airgasrefrigerants.com/refrigerant-boiling-points.php

That is why I concluded the best, safest and fairly easy way to super cool the distributor to -70F with liquid CO2, or -100F with dry ice made from liquid CO2, which is easily obtainable in some form like a CO2 gas cylinder or "CO2 ONLY" fire extinguisher, or already made dry ice which is harder to find. Here is S. Fl., it's at every grocery store, but can be found at welding supply stores or compressed gas suppliers. The best would to make your own powdered dry ice from CO2 because in can be form and compacted around the distributors for quick sub-chilling before thermal soaking into the block bore....... I hope everyone can understand my rational of my all my suggestions as being the most methodical and scientific way of removing these stuck distributors......

Here's another chart on "boiling points of some common gases":
http://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/boiling-points-fluids-gases-d_155.html

Boiling Point = discharge temps into open atmosphere.

ApeMan, how did you cool your distributor, and heat your block. What approx. temps?
 
#144 ·
Engineers scare me frankly.

I heated my engine by running it. Went for a long drive.

Cooled the distributor by spraying aerosol stuff laying around on the shelves here since the 90s. Had a can of CRC silicon spray lube.

I have no way of knowing if the cooling made any difference but suspect it could have. As mentioned before the part of the distributor that was binding is way below the distributor clamp.

It may have been easier to stand the car on it"s front bumper for a month.
 
#146 ·
I got my distributor out! And in one piece! I still managed to wreck my vacuum advance. Well, that was my own mistake. And the distributor went pretty ugly. I'm not sure about my distributor "frame's" durability anymore. Pipe wrench did pretty big damage on distributor and now the aluminium narrow part of it isn't as thick as it was. Maybe I need a new distributor.

I used slotted screwdriver and tried to get that between block and distributor. I rotated my distributor and then put my screwdriver in position, and hit it with hammer several times. Then I sprayed penetrating oil into place where I had just hit with screwdirver and hammmer. I also used wedge shaped punch (?) when the hole between block and distributor was big enough.

I think slow is the word here. I tried to move my distributor just a little bit up and again a little up.

I also used my own made tool if distributor jammed in some point of "lifting". It was made from flat iron bar and it helped me a bit.
My tool was shaped like this:
--
|
|
| <----
---

I put the bottom part of tool (where the arrow is pointing) under the wide part of distributor and I hit the upper part with with small hammer from down.

I may make a better scetch with MS Paint someday if I have time. My tool werent that good.
 
#147 ·
Dry Ice would've been the best thing to try like I posted before and was confirmed by the Engineering and Metallurgist forum to thermally contract the cast aluminum away from the iron bore after first doing a heat cycle to initially crack the corrosion and allow to cool naturally.......

Your tool is exactly what I spoke about if you could have found or rented a "Concrete Vibrator" to place under the distributor's main body housing and attach 2 ropes to the end and pull up on it. These things put out some strong vibrations and a person could never hold a "Concrete Vibrator" by hand since it's been tried like in these videos:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WuGU4TQULLw

Here is an example of how strong the vibrations are:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OxSjLe3tJEY

I believe using that technique would not damage the distributor along with super cooling with dry ice to -100 F. with the use of penetrating oil.

But, at least you got it out. I'd still go for an HEI distributor vs. a points distributor......

Can you tell why it was frozen and at which point on the distributor so others can get an idea of what to expect?

----------

By the way, I found another e-mail address for Al Betker (old owner of MTS who developed the MTS #3 Cam) and e-mailed him on June 23rd. The e-mail didn't come back, but nothing yet from him.............hopefully he'll contact me.........

Regards,
Chris
 
#148 · (Edited)
Your tool is exactly what I spoke about if you could have found or rented a "Concrete Vibrator" to place under the distributor's main body housing and attach 2 ropes to the end and pull up on it. These things put out some strong vibrations and a person could never hold a "Concrete Vibrator" by hand since it's been tried like in these videos:
Those tools would have been interesting to try but I think the cost of dry ice and tools rental would have been higher than cost of new distributor. So, it woul have been wiser to wreck my old one when taking it out with basic tools than rent some special tools.

But, at least you got it out. I'd still go for an HEI distributor vs. a points distributor......
I choose points because part prices are expensive in here. I paid 110 euros from remanufactured one (which one is 33 euros in rockauto..). I have to order HEI distributor from rockauto when my friend (and his friends) order something from there. We can split all delivery and customs duty costs. If I order alone, my distributor could have cost more than 110 euros.

Can you tell why it was frozen and at which point on the distributor so others can get an idea of what to expect?
If my memory serves, it was frozen from the "collar" and from the thick part under it. I think my distributor was jammed because all that dirt which has somehow built up between block and distributor. Distributor had lost of hard carbon around it.


Today I assembled my new distributor and got my car running (first I had small problems but after a while I realized that my distributor was 180 degrees off:banghead:) I don't have any good timing light, just basic one without any adjustment. I think I'll buy an adjustable light with rpm-meter and dwell meter. Those are hard to find nowadays. There are lights only with adjustment or only with dwell meter but I haven't found any meters with everything in it.

Maybe I'll have to start looking one from Sweden or Germany. I don't know whats the problem in Finland. We have shortage from pretty much everything what comes to old cars. For example, you can't get any old style Motorcraft plugs from anywhere (this is strange because we have lots of old fords and saabs with ford V4 engines what would use those plugs). Those must be ordered from Sweden. Some AC-Delco plugs are rare in here too. Those rare models must be ordered from Sweden too. This is strange.

It's great that we have some small stores which can order parts straight from Sweden. No big store does that, they just say "no, we can't provide you that" and likely (if I'm buying Motorcraft plugs) they just offer me some NGK ones which just don't work....
 
#149 ·
I love my Innova/Equus Digital Timing Light that has all the functions built in. Advance, Dwell, RPM. These things are made in China like everything else in the U.S., so I'd expect they are distributed in every country around the world, except Finland!!!!!!
:hmm::histeric:

Just continuing your joke since your bitching about your county! :thumbsup:

I see these timing lights on E-bay and Amazon. Hopefully you can find one. if not, all you need is a timing light with an advance dial, and a separate meter that measures Dwell for setting up your points and a tachometer.

http://www.equus.com/Product/5568/

http://www.iequus.com/Product/Diagnostic/timing.html

http://www.iequus.com/Product/Detail/1ED4E438-2894-46E6-8DD0-3D36BC2E44BE

Video comparing a few of their different timing lights:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ViDA9IrkTtI

I have the old version of the Pro 5568 which is about 15yrs old and has 5 buttons like this one on E-bay, but I think they have the wrong part# listed. I'll have to look at mine for the part number so you can search for the older discontinued model.

These guys ship World Wide:

61.00 Euros. Item #3568. The picture shows a light that has Dwell Function, but not the description. They must be using an old photo from the older version of the PRO Light with the red case in the 2nd link below which is the #5568
http://www.ebay.com/itm/EQUUS-INNOVA-3568-Timing-Light-Advanced-Digital-Equus-Products-/290926635178?pt=Motors_Automotive_Tools&hash=item43bc9428aa&vxp=mtr

This it a good timing light with all functions:
89.00 Euros:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/EQUUS-INNOVA-5568-Professional-Timing-Light-DIS-/121111992404?pt=Motors_Automotive_Tools&hash=item1c32d65854



If you can find this brand, make sure it is a 5 button that has the Dwell function for setting your points used through the green boot hookup wire lead.

My old version had a plastic pickup that is burned up from hitting a header, but still works with some electrical tape! I'll have to order a new harness that comes with the metal pickup like the new 5568 PRO has. You might find the older model with the plastic pickup......just so you know.
 
#150 ·
I love my Innova/Equus Digital Timing Light that has all the functions built in. Advance, Dwell, RPM. These things are made in China like everything else in the U.S., so I'd expect they are distributed in every country around the world, except Finland!!!!!!
Guess what.....

I did some investigation on timing lights avainable in Finland, and I couldn't find any reasonable timing light. No Equus lights nothing:banghead:

Same problem is with many high-quality professional hand tools. We xhave only low to medium guality tools in many stores but no high quality, for example Stahlwille, Snap-on and Mac-tools are difficult to find...

Maybe I order one from Germany or Sweden....I just have to find a store which has them.




But the good news, my car is running fine (I'm just having some idle problems but nothing more serious, I opened a new thread for them) and soon I get my first MPG results with new distributor.

Now I set my points gap to 0,40mm and my timing advance to 7 degrees BTDC with no vacuum advance, engine idling about 800rpm. When I get a proper timing light I can do more adjustment in total advance etc.
 
#151 · (Edited)
I e-mailed Equus here in the U.S., but they do not distribute to Europe from their U.S. office. So I called them just now......... They told me to tell you to do an internet, e-bay search for the items #5568 or #590 518


I think Equus U.S. is a private licenced company here in the U.S. and there are other licenced company's in Europe who sell their product line and timing lights. These things are made in Tawian but their old web-site has no contact info to e-mail them but I found 1 or 2 representatives in Taiwan to e-mail.
I'll try to see if they can give me a distributor list in Europe or Finland or if they will sell to you direct from the factory.

I did find the Equus 5568 on the German "Amazon" site if it helps.
http://www.amazon.de/Stroboskoplampe-Z%C3%BCndzeitpunkteinstellpistole-Digital-Schlie%C3%9Fwinkeleinstellung-Cylinder/dp/B000EVU8J8/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1374874809&sr=8-1&keywords=equus+timing+light

Here is the Taiwan site and product #590 518. Maybe try that number when doing a search. Also try a broad internet search "Innova or Equus Timing Light":
http://www.equus.cn/english/products/product1.asp?app_id=26

http://www.equus.cn/english/products/product2.asp?app1_id=9

Just to note, if you find one, make sure it has the metal inductive clamp. My old one had a plastic clamp which warped since I had it too close to the exhaust manifold when clamped on the plug wire. Also, if you don't get a signal, take the clamp off and turn it around when attaching to the plug wire.
 
#152 ·
Hey 3dfx

check out voelkner.de for tools and equipment.
Otherwise Sweden has a VAST community of classic US cars and have many parts stores there.
Good luck!
 
#153 · (Edited)
3dfx.

I just got a reply from the Taiwan mfg. of the Equus/Innova Timing Light that has multiple functions.

Maybe you've heard about this company called "CEI Conrad Electronic" part #857336:
http://www.conrad.com/ce/en/product/857336/Equus-5568-Pro-Digital-Timing-Light-12V

http://www.conrad.com/ce/en/content/cms_au_int/cms_au_int


There are so many cheap timing lights made in China which is where I found the Taiwan manufacture of Equus on Alibaba.com.

I did find the same timing light on the link that "70Eldo" posted. The "Red" colored timing light has all the functions and the "Black" timing light is just a basic timing light: Product #C34228
http://www.voelkner.de/categories/6823_6878_7177/Auto-Navigation/Auto-Werkzeug/Auto-Mess-Testgeraete.html?page=3
 
#154 ·
I did find the same timing light on the link that "70Eldo" posted. The "Red" colored timing light has all the functions and the "Black" timing light is just a basic timing light: Product #C34228
This voelkner.de has cheapest equus "red" timing light I have seen in Europe.

I still have to check what Swedish shops has to offer.



I had to add first liter of oil into my engine. It burns one liter on 1000miles....

Maybe I rebuild my engine in next winter..

I was thinking, does any other engine than Cadillac engine fit in my Cadillac without any huge work? Something like olds 350 or 307? Those engines are cheap in Finland (something like 40 to 100 euros). Could some eighties olds 307 fit in Cadillac easily? I've been thinking this could be temporary engine for just as long until the rebuild is completed.

Cadillac engines are rare and expensive in here..
 
#156 ·
Hello again

Recently I have been thinking about installing numerically lower rear axle gears. Something like mid to late 70's Cadillacs had. Only problem is converter slippage. I'm afraid about having higher stall speed converter in my '69 than those late 70's cars.

Are there any differences in those torque converters?



I got some information about my engine healt soon when I get my homemade pass-leak-tester ready..
 
#157 ·
I can't remember if I sent you the links on how to make your own "Cylinder Leak Down Tester". This info was probably the best info I've seen:

http://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1110788-leak-down-tester-prelim.html

In the link above are 2 YOUTUBE videos. Make sure you read all the comments in each video for more info.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7UcOn8OEt0Y

I posted in the video above and verified that this person knows what he is talking about:
Here's what the "evolutionm forum" stated: "Anyone who knows anything about the FAA (Federal Aviation Administration) knows FAA doesn't screw around when it comes to engine maintenance standards. FAA established the standard for leakdown testing, and requires a 1mm (.040") orifice be placed between the two gauges. In other words, when pressure is applied (e.g. 100psi), what we are looking for is leakage in the cylinder as compared to the airflow through a 1mm orifice at that pressure."

There are also many tech. articles and techniques on doing and correctly diagnosing problems with a "Leak Down Tester" :
http://www.carcraft.com/techarticles/116_0406_cylinder_leakdown_tester/viewall.html

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QNf0IOIvIcY

There are many videos on the side bar of Youtube or on the internet but this was some of the best info I found.


As far as the converter, I think think the 1st most important factor is to match it to the cam shaft then rear gears, but I think the experts say it must be matched to the cam, gears, weight, ect....ect....

You should probably e-mail YANK Converters http://www.converter.cc/ , or
Precission Industries http://www.converter.com/ ,
Arte Carr http://www.cpttransmission.com/media.htm

These are smaller company's who specialize in building well engineered billet converters which are very high quality vs. the regular performance converters out there. You may also ask your question to TCI which is a much larger mainstream company. Not sure if you want to try and swap out a later converter for your car....but, I'd send an e-mail to these guys for advice.
 
#158 ·
I got my leak-down tester ready today. I soldered 1mm welding nozzle inside pneumatic pipe with silver to get this small orifice done.




¨¨¨¨¨¨¨¨¨¨¨¨¨¨¨¨¨¨¨¨¨¨¨¨¨¨pressure meter pressure meter
¨¨¨¨¨¨¨¨¨¨¨¨¨¨¨¨¨¨¨¨¨¨¨¨¨¨¨¨¨¨¨¨||¨¨¨¨¨¨¨¨¨¨¨¨¨¨||
male coupling=== pressure regulator== ==1mm orifice== ====female coupling



I compared results with mag-tools factory made leak down tester and I got pretty similar results with my tester. Maybe next weekend I'll test my cadillac for pass leaks.
 
#159 ·
Hi

Today I managed to check half of cylinders with my friend before my friend had to go to night shift...


Cylinder 1 was way worse than the others. It had 50% pass leak, and it all leaked to cylinder 6 and carburetor, if my memory serves. Does cylinder 6 have intake stroke when cylinder one ignites? The intake valve's rocking arm didn't have any gap. I poured some oil into cylinder and it didn't made any difference.

I should have plugged the spark plug hole, where air came out and then check where air comes out....... Well, I'll check that tomorrow.


Other cylinders had something like 30% pass leak and they didn't came much better when I poured small amout of oil into cylinder. So, guess I'm having bad valves.....
 
#160 ·
I got all my cylindres tested, and here are my results with cold engine:

1. 50%
2. 24%
3. 35%
4. 30%
5. 30%
6. 30%
7. 30%
8. 35%

I poured some oil and result went something like 10% better.


One strange thing occured when I measured cylinder 4.:hmm: First I couldn't get any good results. I got something like 80% leakage. Then strange "BLOP"- sound came from engine, and after that I got this 30% leakage. Could there be some hardened carbon between cylinderhead (I don't know what that machined sealing surface is in english....) and valve? And when I pressurised that cylinder, air flow and pressure blew some carbon into exhaust and closed the valve? I think this carbon between cylinder head and valve can cause some leak in this motor because those valve springs are very weak and they can't shut that valve......

What kinds of results this kind of engine should get?
 
#161 · (Edited)
I was going to let others maybe comment before I did on your last post.......as I said in the past and was going to say again, but you answered your own question......"carbon, Carbon, CARBON".

I'm sure that's what's going on. From what I've read about that motor is that the valve springs are weak and can be pushed in by hand. That is not a lot of pressure on the "Valve Seat" which I believe you are talking about and didn't know the name of. Minimal pressure would allow build up of carbon since the valve does not have a lot high pressure tension on it (valve seat pressure) which would keep the valve clean. That's what I think has happened on your motor.....in addition, oil is probably getting past the rings because they ring pack is seized up with carbon allowing more oil to be burned creating more combustion chamber carbon. I'm sure the valve seals are also probably allowing oil into the upper valves causing again, more carbon, but that could be controlled if everything was cleaned with continuous treatment of the fuel or the seals can be easily replaced without removing the heads........

I don't know if it's possible to bend valves on that motor.

I think somewhere on this thread I gave you some idea's of what to use to dissolve carbon other than water.

The old Berryman B12 Chemtool #0116 product we have here in the U.S. since the 1940's is a very strong solevant.

I found my notes from their chemists who told me it can be re-produced if you can not find it:

A ratio of::::::: 2 parts Tolulene : 1 part Acetone : 1 part MEK ( Methyl ethyl ketone) 2 liter of Tol, 1 liter of Acetone, and 1 Liter of MEK. Maybe mix in some light weight oil for lubrication and to extend the "wet time" since they will evaporate very quickly....... These chemicals can be purchased at your local paint store.

The trick would be to somehow soak the backs of the valves. You really have to put some thought into this for an aggressive treatment and soak which will also help dissolve carbon in the ring pack.

Here's maybe one way to do it. Remove all spark plugs, remove the coil wire, place towels over each bank of spark plug holes, crank the motor for about 5 seconds while pouring in a 1/2 liter of this mixture down the carburetor. Maybe use a weak battery to crank slowly. Allow to soak for 24 hrs. Hopefully some valves will end up closed and keep the mixture in contact with the seat/valves, but it will probably all leak past within a few minutes to seconds. Do the procedure again for maybe 3 seconds, and hopefully other valves will end up closed allowing the liquid to soak the valves/seats. Do this a few times over the next few days, and drain the oil or take the drain plug out while doing this. Keeping the plugs out will ensure you don't get hydro-lock, but I'm sure all of the fluid would drain into the pan within minutes or within a few hours. If it doesn't, you will know which ring packs are clean and tight because when cranking, all of the fluid would shoot out of the plugs holes.

Maybe even loosen all of the intake rocker arms, and just pour the mixture down the carburetor and fill up the intake manifold and allow it to soak into the combustion chamber, but keep the plugs in this way you flood each combustion chamber and fill it up so the level stays above the valves. It will eventually soak past each piston and out the oil pan. I would collect the mixture, and filter it through rags, and reuse it and keep pouring it down the carburetor. You may even need to drill a small hole into the lowest point of the exhaust pipe under the exhaust manifolds to drain any fluid that may get into the exhaust or remove a lower section of exhaust to blow out the mixture when cranking......

Allow it to soak for a few days to soften the carbon. Then do a rinse with kerosene / diesel fuel mixed with light weight oil to re-coat all parts with some oil before start up and to flush out the Tolulene/MEK/Acetone mixture. After you flushed it out, maybe leave the plugs out, and drain plug to allow all of the Tol/MEK/ACT to flash-off and evaporate for 24 hours. Try to spin/rotate the valves by hand back and forth. Tighten all of the rocker arms to specification, put a few squirts of oil into each cylinder, start/crank the motor without the plugs, install plugs, add oil, and start it up and allow to idle up to temperature, then use water or carburetor cleaner down the carb while revving the motor, then take it out on the road and do full speed passes/runs to blow out carbon.

That's an extreme approach. I and some of our old fleet mechanics have done similar procedures and our Delivery Trucks with Big Block Chevy Motors. They survived and no reason the Caddy motor couldn't.

Just think about what your doing and take a methodical approach.

You could always just keep trying the fuel additives, or just remove the heads to clean the valves manually, and then do a piston soak when the heads are off and allow some strong solevant to sit on top of the pistons.......

One of the best ways to dissolve carbon is ammonia based paint stripper or even 10% ammonia by itself but that would wash down the cylinder walls. There is even restaurant Grill and Oven Stove Cleaner, which is Tolulene or Amonia based that dissolves hard carbon on stoves, grills, and cooking pots.

I think I mentioned somewhere here about some strong but factory approved carbon cleaners:

GM Piston and Ring Cleaner #12378549. It should be available in Europe, but is expensive but will be hard to direct it to clean the valve with the heads on. Also GM CLEENS also known as GM Top End Cleaner (TEC) but is no longer sold in the U.S. but can be found on e-bay:
http://www.j-body.com/forum/showthread.php?21945-GM-Cleans-meets-a-high-mileage-motor-56K-com-back-tomorow

Or; MOPAR CCC (Combustion Chamber Cleaner)

Here is a specific TSB and specific technique on using it:
http://jameskbeard.com/jameskbeard/Cadillac_Files/02-06-01-009C_Oil_Consumption.pdf

There was also a cleaner I posted about that is popular to dissolve firearm / gun carbon called "Ed's RED Bore Cleaner".

Here is a very well known product that is environmentally friendly, but is used to soak parts after dissembled. I've talked to the mfg. about using in the engine, but they said their concern would be flash rust on iron like the cylinder walls.

http://www.orisonllc.com/pistonkleen.html


Depends on how aggressive you want to get with treating this condition, but this motor appears to be badly carboned from my initial thoughts before you did the leak-down or compression test which seems to indicate it. After this aggressive carbon soak, I'm sure the compression test and leak-down will improve significantly.

Once again, the engine can not be efficient for fuel economy if it has ton's of carbon.

Maybe others can add their concerns, thoughts and ideas...

----------

By the way, to answer your question about what is acceptable for leakdown specs....

Here's another article on the subject and they confirm anything more than 20% for any engine is too much.

I still believe you have carboned valve seats and ring packs:


http://www.carcraft.com/techarticles/116_0406_cylinder_leakdown_tester/viewall.html


Simple tips:

http://www.cadillacforums.com/forums/northstar-engines-system-technical-discussion/95294-cylinder-leak-down-test-procedure-percentage.html

Old TAVIA Tool Instructions:
http://web.archive.org/web/20040225191535/http://www.tavia.com/08015_instructions.html
 
#162 ·
You might try disconnecting the secondaries on the carb. Then you would only be running on the front primaries, which is how the motor runs most of the time anyway, and the secondaries would never open if you happened to get into the throttle sometime. My 76 Eldorado with the 500 gets
about 14 mpg on the highway like this, which might not be so great, but it gets it in style!!
 
#163 ·
Hello again.

It's been about two years when I last visited this page. It's because I haven't done anything to my Cadillac, so I didn't have anything to write about. Okay, I washed it and towed it inside but nothing special. My other projects were taking all my free time and they were more important than cadillac. I am still looking for one bearing for my Saab 96 and it's engine is in my engine stand but I think I have found one. My british tractor, Nuffield 460 blew head gasket and I'll have to fix that and I had some problems with my daily user Oldsmobile Delta 88 1980. I still have some problems with it but at least I can drive it. Biggest problem now is Edelbrock carb and leaking radiator. I'm replacing Edelbrock with quadrajet and I'm currently rebuilding one.

Yesterday I managed to get my engine on the floor. Today I took heads off and started inspecting. My cylinder walls have lots of wear and some small scratches like old engines have. There were suprisingly low amout of carbon in heads and piston tops. Camshaft seemed bad even though I didn't see all of the lobes.


I guess I'll at least have to have my cylinders bored. We will see inside my oil pan after I have finished rebuilding my Saabs engine. I'll post some photos about my engine soon too.


My english can be little rusty but try to understand
 
#166 · (Edited)
I saw this article today and thought of you! Easy and cheap Throttle Body Injection conversion. I have the GM T.B.I. which was original on my 1991 Cadillac Brougham. TBI's were used on many GM's and many people use the TBI for a simple conversion on many different cars. There were 2 different TBI's a 1 7/8" bore and 2" bore. There were also 6 or 7 different flow rate injectors for these TBI's.

I had recently read an article about the injector Flow Rates on the TBI's. I'll see if I saved it.

Here's the article I saw today:
http://www.hotrod.com/how-to/engine/1411-a-homemade-tbi-conversion-for-904/


O.K.....I just found that info. It was a conversation about injectors on this forum:
http://www.truckforum.org/forums/chevy-truck-forum/34331-290hp-crate-motor-with-vin-k-tbi-2.html

There are many forums that talk about the GM T.B.I. and how to tune it and do carb. conversions.

This forum specializes in the TBI's since they were used on many GM Camaro's, Firebirds and other cars:
http://www.thirdgen.org/forums/tech-general-engine/

If you do a search on T.B.I. or TBI conversion, you will find many threads on that forum! It might be a very interesting and fun project to convert your 472 to TBI. I'm sure if you do an internet search you will find some people who have done this successfully and gained fuel economy, and very good drivablilty and is a very reliable fuel injection system.....

Here are many links on others discussing "472 T.B.I. Conversions":
https://www.google.com/search?q=tbi...j0.3447j0j4&sourceid=chrome&es_sm=93&ie=UTF-8
 
#167 ·
  • Like
Reactions: 70eldo
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top