Well, I just spent the whole evening reading through 10 different forums and 20 threads about the 472/500 including transmission swaps and gears. For now; it's going to take some time to post this info with the links......but from what I've read, its from very genuine and authentic sources who know the 472/500..................
.......HOW DOES 22 MPG's SOUND FOR THE RECORD ON A 472 WITH A SPECIALLY DESIGNED CAMSHAFT SWAP?!!!!!!!!!!! I'm sure there is more to it and you'll have to contact these manufactures and post on these different forums that I'll list.
Apparently, a lot guys are seeing 15-18 mpgs from matched gears to cams and transmission ect. Doesn't sound too expensive from what I've read. But, there is definitely a HUGE following of the 472/500 and a lot of research and design/ development in performance parts for those motors.
I'll try to post it all logically soon.
Anyway, I just wanted to comment on some of what you posted:
#1. Definitely put an HEI (High Energy Ignition) Distributor in this motor. It's solid state technology far surpasses the conventional points setup and will improve how this motor runs.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Distributor
HEI was a huge step in ignition technology from previous points design:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/High_energy_ignition
Although, HEI's do have some inherant problems. I've reserched this and have come up with many mods. to do on my 91 Eldo's HEI. One of the best things you can do for an "In cap Coil HEI" is to get that coil out of the cap! This reaquires a "Cap-Adapt" kit which allows you to run an external coil. The internal coil design gets really hot and is hard on the module. Also, there is a lot of EMI created by the "In-Cap" High Energy Coil which affects the module to false trigger which is why GM started to put a small metal shield over some HEI modules. Its just better to convert over to an external oil filled coil and not epoxy filled so it stays cool for stable output which is heavily debated by one expert in the industry by the name Dave Ray of Daves Small Body HEI's who also advocate the Large Cap HEI's that Ford used and improved on the GM HEI design which has wider spaces between terminal to prevent cross firing in the HEI Cap that the GM HEI's have problems with.
In addition, a module mounted under an "in cap coil", will heat up and it requires a special heat sink compound grease to transfer the heat out of the module and into the distributor body. Many use "Dielectric Grease" which is the wrong stuff and will insulate the module and not allow it to transfer the heat. The best heat sink grease to use is the same stuff used for your home computer's heatsink for the processor.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Thermal_grease
I can do a whole write-up on the best greases and the right and wrong way to apply it........it should be applied in a long straight line and push the module into it and let the module spread the grease.........there are some good YOUTUBE Videos on the subject, but many say it's over-kill, but I've gone through some of the Accel junk performance modules and have learned my lesson. All internal distributor parts, including the module should be AC Delco!
Also, these HEI's require good clean power and should be wired with a quality relay and 10-8 awg wire. There is so much tech info I can post on modifying an HEI that many are not aware of.
In addition to all my research and the mods I'm going to do on my own HEI, I just found some EXCELLENT info. and one of the members is from a well known fuel injection service company, so this guy, if it's Jim Linder, definitely knows his stuff on GM HEI's, coils, and modules and this info would apply to any HEI setup.
http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=617596
#2. Regarding the Gear Vendors. From what I've read this evening, I was surprised it came up many times in different threads. Some say "yes", some say "no". The concensus is to go with a 700R4 but it definitely needs to be built stronger and it starts to get expensive. Other people have said to go with the 200R4. Some even say with the right cam and gears, the TH400 is still the strongest and can also get good fuel economy.......... I'll post those links for you soon.
You posted the 4L60. That is the same as the 700R4. Did you mean the 4L60E but many have also stated on those other forums to go with the 4L80E with an aftermarket transmission controller.
#3. I've read that some say Headers are a definite improvement on the 472/500's.
#4. As far as an Ignition Scope, many of the old guys were the true experts at reading the patterns. For the past 15 yrs, most factory technicians never used a scope and were not trained how to use them as they were old technology and they relied on their scan tools. In the recent years, there is been a lot of training ect. on how to use and read a scope pattern on new cars to help diagnose misfire ect. problems. Snap-On is a major manf. of scanners for newer computer controlled cars. They have integrated a scope in 2 of their newer scanners called the Modis and Versus.These handheld scopes are great for reading ignition patterns while driving just like those other scopes I listed previously. Originally, the scopes back in the 1960's 70's and 80's were made by SUN Electronics. They can be found in some old repair shops but were the most valuable diagnostic tool..here's what they look like:
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c1-and-c2-corvettes/2184759-picked-up-a-few-sun-machines-this-weekend-pics.html
#5. Some people on those forums also spoke about the Edelbrock upgrades, but others said to go with even better set ups that you'll see in the followup posts that I'll put together.
#6. There is a lot more to Decarboning a motor other than
only using water. Unless you have a "Fiber Optic Borescope" and can verify that only water works, I can tell you with great certainty, water alone does not work. I have a borescope and have verified many different products and how each works including water. The only thing you are removing is
mostly "rich soot" and maybe some softer carbon by just using water alone. If you can see small chucks, then yes its working somewhat but you need a chemical to heatsoak into the hard layer of carbon to soften it before using the water. Also, its going to take a lot more water than a spray bottle. If you mist the water in, it will have already vaporized way before it even gets down the runner to the intake valve, combustion chamber and piston. Many times, I have trickled in 1-2 liters of water down a carb or throttle body on newer cars and have never hydrolocked a motor or bent a rod. It's not going to happen on that 472! You just trickle (just a little less than a steady stream) and enough to get the water to the valves and combustion chamber where it vaporizes and cracks the carbon off. This is how the old GM Caddy mechanics taught me how to do it.
Funny, I remember stories these guys told that they used to throw hand fulls of rice down the carb's of Flat Head Fords to get the carbon out! Many years ago, there was a system that used crushed Walnut Shells under forced air and vacuumed out to de-carbon motors!
Hmmm, I bet a hand full of snow could do wonders to decarbon an engine!:hmm::histeric:
You just need a chemical process to heat soak and soften the carbon, and the fuel additive with the highest PEA like Redline SI-1 to really break down the carbon.
#7. As far as cleaning the oil system; have you ever had the valve cover off or the oil pan? If the sludge is greater than 4mm or 1/8 inch. Then aggressive cleaning could clog the screen. If it is that thick, you could do a 10min flush with a kerosene type cleaner purchased at the parts store, drain the oil through a house "window screen" to see if there are any large chunks of sludge and/or cut open the oil filter. Then, pour 6-7 quarts of diesel fuel into the crank case and let it sit for 24-48 hrs. Throughout this time, shake the cars front end really hard for a few minutes by pushing against the fender in order to agitate and mix that solution in the crank case which would possibly loosen it from the pump pick up screen then drain the diesel fuel through a screen to see if you see chunks of debris, or if the diesel fuel is black and thick, or clear. Diesel fuel is high in detergents and I've even run a quart in the oil for a quick flush which is an old technique. Many also use a quart of trans fluid to do the same. You may want to see how your oil pressure is before doing this then check it after.
You'd be surprised how these old mechanics used to treat these engines back then.........even in the dealerships!:hammer:
But using a very good synthetic oil with its detergent package will slowly break down the sludge. Have you ever performed an Oil Analysis? Many diesel marine/truck repairs shops even have these oil analyses in their shop. My local Diesel/Marine/Heavy Equipment repair center only charges $15 per sample and tells a lot about what's going on in the engine and the condition of the oil life.
#8. Here's a little on what I found on Valvoline VR1 and NOT to use RACING OIL in a street car since it does not have the detergent packaged needed for a street car. When you read these forums, they often refer to conventional (non-synthetic oil) as "Dino" which means Dinosaur, which means its oil from the ground of the left over extinct Dinosaurs.....something like that!
:histeric:
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=1712458
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=2135252&page=1
More info on Valvoline Products:
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=2843728&Searchpage=1&Main=188345&Words=Valvoline+vr1&Search=true#Post2843728
Race oils are for short use and drain periods.
#9. Good info here on TH400 Fluid. I'd probably use DextronIII which is good advice from one of the better known members. Some of the members on that Forum are chemists and are really knowledgeable:
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=2631594&page=1
I'll work on that other info regarding the fuel efficency of the 472/500, Transmissions Info, and Rear Axle Gears recommendations.
Regards,
Chris