I also meant to say in order for the best fuel efficiency, the engine needs cleaned out too and tuned as best as possible before we start trying to make gains in fuel efficiency!
:bouncy:
I did ask Mr. Kaunismäki to kindly assist in this problem, but he stated it would be easier for you to find the products yourself, so it looks like CRC's marketing is not very consumer oriented in Europe nor do they need the exposure on this topic. I'm dissapointed that they wouldn't send you samples.
Time for some of those "Finish Bad Words" to call him!!!!!
:rant2:
I deal with factory representatives all the time in the U.S. and they always give away free stuff for me and others to try.
Here's what he sent me by e-mail:
This is the wrong product.......it's for freezing electronics semi conductors for diagnostics. He must not have understood or bothered to read my e-mail regarding the issue:
http://www.motonet.fi/web/guest/muut#query=crc%20kylm%C3%A4spray
And to use this product if you get the distributor out to prevent the corrosion again. :helpless: I wished he would've helped more:
http://www.motonet.fi/web/guest/muut#query=crc%20metallivapaa-keraaminen
This is the European product I found on my own:
http://www.crcind.com/wwwcrc/tds/CRC_GREEN-ROST_FLASH_IND-25TDS.PDF
You will just need a lot of it which is why I recommend using a can of 134a Freon along with a separate penetrating oil...........
I think you will need a lot of freeze spray to "cold soak/freeze soak" it so the entire length of the distributor's housing's core temperature drops to contract the aluminum in the block bore.
For now, wait until I get my questions answered by the Metallurgist Forum were I posted a few concerns with sub-freezing and heating of alloys.
By the way; -50C. in Finland. Are you kidding me?!!!! That's -58F! You should've tried to remove that distributor during the winter! The iron and aluminum would've been equally deep freezed and the distributor would have probably popped out like a Popsicle! Which is a frozen treat!:smilewide:
But then you would've lost the use of your hands for about a year!
Anyway, try the Freeze Spray on the U-bolts!
#1. Let us know exactly what plugs you used. Did all of your detonation/pre-ignition start after installing those plugs? When did this engine start pinging...recently, or did it ping last year when opening your secondaries?
The 69' 472 calls for a AC Delco R44XLS which I'm surprised is an "extra long reach and extended tip" which is good to get that plug deep into the cylinder. See Delco CODE I.D. CHART:
http://www.gonzomotorsports.com/?page_id=528
The do make a hotter plug 45, 46. The colder plugs are 44, 43, 42.
Were the old plugs oil fouled? What was the plug numbers that you removed?
Good video from NGK. You want colder plugs to run lean mixtures to prevent detonation and pinging. The larger ceramic shell transfers more heat into the cooling jacket that may be clogged and coated on your engine preventing heat transfer out of the combustion chamber and into the head.
But if you have oil entering the combustion chamber or rich mixture, the plug will foul and not self clean if too cold which is why then you would use a hotter plug but then the plug end will run hotter and could cause pinging and not pull heat out of the combustion chamber. 45 is the middle heat range for AC Delco Plugs.
http://ngksparkplugs.com/tech_support/spark_plugs/p2.asp?mode=nml
#2. Are you using a 50/50 mix of ethylene glycol coolant or have you checked the concentration and specific gravity with coolant hydrometer?
I'm not sure how sensitive these big blocks are to boiling coolant in the heads cooling jackets to cause detonation which is why the correct cooling mix and pressure cap to raise the boiling point of the coolant is important, but detonation problem is most likely fuel, ignition, or carbon related or a combination of many problems.
#3. Are you using organic acid technology (OAT) Dex-Cool or hybrid organic acid technology (HOAT) formulation like ZEREX anti-freeze coolant in your cooling system?
Since you had so much contamination in the system, the cooling jackets certainly have a thick layer of rust/calcium build up which prevents heat transfer out of the head causing high combustion chamber temps., and a coolant gauge will not indicate this, but will show if the radiator or thermostat is not working correctly.....that's only 1 scenario.
Yes, I've aggressively cleaned systems and always anticipated leaks, but I've always got these leaks sealed with the better multiple step cooling system sealants. I accidentally poked a huge hole in one of the radiator's core tubes removing my radiator fan on my Fleetwood. That was a huge hole/slice and too big for any cooling system sealants. So I bought the correct 2 part high temp. / high pressure epoxy I could find at the hardware store.
Fixed it with no problem, and I ran every caustic cleaner through that radiator to clean my cooling system out really good,( using Muratic Acid HCL, Oxalic Acid, Sodium Carbonate, Baking Soda, TIDE Powdered Laundry Det., Cascade Dishwashing Machine Detergent.......can't remember what else I threw in there) then I drove on that radiator for a few months before changing to a better more efficient aluminum core radiator and the 2 part epoxy held with no problem. I can take a picture if any want to see it, MODINE Radiators used to be made really good! Only in the USA.
#4. Does the 472/500 have block drains at the bottom like Chevy engines do? Yes they do..just found some info:
http://www.cadillacforums.com/forums/500-472-425-368/274288-hole-block.html
YES... they do have coolant drain plugs as seen in these links. Most of the time, like on my 91 Fleetwood 305, I removed the coolant drain plugs and nothing came out. I stuck a screwdriver into the hole and pushed it around and broke up all the sediment then all kinds of rusty junk came out. I flushed the system while running and reving the motor with these plugs out and draining into a white plastic tub/ bucket until all the water was clear.
http://www.cadillacforums.com/forums/500-472-425-368/274288-hole-block.html
Definitely want to remove those drain plugs if the Caddy's have them when flushing and running the engine.....you would be surprised at how much sediment gets trapped in the lower block and can't get flushed out any other way...sometimes pressure can do it...........:thumbsup:
I reviewed the "EC1 Coolant" site you posted........this is really not something you want to try.:helpless::cop::thumbdown: The site is does not have tech info, nor any history from what I could tell. Looks very suspicious to me.
The new Evans U.S. site, and U.K. site is too fancy. I will post the old Evans site with 18 yrs of technical industry articles and test data. Very impressive info. and even their Tech guys said the same but have no say in the website design...... we had a very long conversation about it. For years, Evans was only marketed to industrial applications and for race cars, but over the past few years, the company has gone though major changes and is now concentrating on the consumer market which is why their website is now more consumer oriented marketing..................:yup:
Here's some history about Evans Cooling: it was developed by Jack Evans who not only designed this specialized coolant but was an inventor and consultant to the U.S. factory automotive industry. Around the late 80's, he designed and patented a reverse cooling system and was hired by GM to solve some cooling problems. There is a very detailed chain of events that ocurred so I may have some of the history mixed up.
Anyway, GM payed him a small fee to solve their problem with his patented design. Then one night, GM engineers broke into his development area, and took apart one of his test cars, reversed engineered the system, and stole his idea and put it into production on the LT1 Corvette Engine!
Well, Jack Evans sued GM in 2 lawsuits for close to $1 Billion based on the production of LT1's and his loss in royalties. I read the legal intricacies of the lawsuit and it was amazing. He lost in Federal Court, then re-sued in State court where GM knew they were going to lose the case and gave up. They settled out of court after a 10 yrs of litigation. I heard Jack Evan's really made out. Prabably $300 million. At this time, members of the DuPont family were a minority shareholder in Evans Corp, and they were the one's behind the lawsuit to help Jack Evans keep his lawsuit going for years. Jack retired, and now DuPont is the majority shareholder of Evans Coolant. The company and product have a very good reputation. But they changed the old web-site, and Jack Evan's original open letter to the public outlining his story about what GM did has been taken off the site part of the settlement, but I think I found the old link.
I sent an e-mail to the main Technical person I've talked to many times at Evans about what temps. NPG Coolant will freeze at. From what I remember him saying, Evans NPG ( Non-Aqueous Polypropylene Glycol) does not freeze but will get very thick. If it does manage to freeze, it will not expand like water and will not crack a block, nor does it expand or build pressure if the engine overheats.
http://www.evanscooling.com/products/coolants/
See 3:25 in this video:
http://evanscoolants.co.uk/news/wheeler-dealers-%E2%80%93-watch-now!--edd-china%E2%80%99s-triumph-tr6-conversion-./43