There is a large red (maybe 10ga) wire coming out of the distributor. That is what you are talking about right? I just run that to an +12v ignition source? And I can cut and cap off the 2 wires that went to the old coil from the points distributor?
That sounds right with the wires.....What a lot of guys do to get rid of there air pump and give the clearance for the fan belt at the distrubtor cap is use a 425 pulley set -up... most all 425's, except Cal cars, have no air pump...on those cars the a/c compressor-PS pump belt are just one larger belt... that gives the needed clearance for the HEI....but if you did that you would have to change the ps pump or pulley ...same with the AC comp.
Everything is finished. But now I don't know the order of the distributor cap. I started with where the rotor pointed and went around clockwise from that point in the listed firing order. (1-5-6-3-4-2-7-8).
No luck. also i have a fuse block that distributes power to the starter,alternator, and the fuse block, but when the engine is cranked it blows a 200A fuse. No idea where that problem is coming from. does anyone have and ideas?
also does anyone know the order and what pin is #1 on the HEI distributor?
OK, so I had a little bit of a "rain man" moment and was 180* out on my distributor cap order. The motor fired right up and runs so smooth. I cant believe how much power I was missing before.
Here are some pictures of a semi finished engine bay. I still need to paint the fenders and random other parts. So that is my next project along with a firewall cover....
That looks like you did good!!:cool2: A nice conversion.
Thank you, I learned a lot while doing this. And even though I spent way more than I was expecting im glad that I redid all the suspension bushings and joints while I was in there. It makes a huge difference.
Does anyone know if I can bypass the heater valve and just run a straight piece of heater hose from the heater core to the radiator?
I would like to get rid of that valve.
I can't, for the life of me find where the other two vacuum lines are that go to the side of the valve... and the only place that is missing lines is a little distribution tree to the left of the mode door canister.
nice swap! hopefully mine will turn out as well as urs. good job.
Of course you can eliminate that valve, but the heater core will be hot all the time. I believe you could just keep looking for that vacuum line that operates it, even if you remove the valve. That hose likely originates at the heater controls, behind the dash. Most Caddys I've owned had a removable top on the dash, which gives access to all that "stuff":D
I believe there is only one vacume hose going to that valve... Not sure on that year , but vacume will open the valve or close the valve... those other spots may just be vents.....Don't that the valve off unless you live in the artic circle....
I guess here's my answer
I dont have the "Time Delay Relay" I wonder where I can find that?
I guess the HVAC system is my next project.
I have all new parts installed and A/C works but I have not tried to get the heat to work. I mean it gets cold here for maybe 2 months out of the year so i never worried about it. (its actually 75 while im typing this at 7pm)
The previous owner of my Seville bypassed the heater valve and put a manual valve in the hose that can be opened or closed. I never bothered to change it and just turn it on in cold weather (no winter for this baby) and off in the summer.
So, can somebody tell me how the heater core is plumbed? My manual is silent on this.
The hose from the radiator, goes where? Through the heater valve and to the...?
The passenger head gets routed to the...?