First off an introduction: my name is David Lubowski, I live in CaracasVenezuela and Iíve just come into possession of a low mileage 472 packing 1970 Fleetwood that I plan to ďrestoreĒ. Mechanically this car is in bone-stock conditions, no transmission works, engine modifications, absolutely nothing has been changed in this car, and after thirty three years, itís time someone didÖ
I plan on making this my daily driver/sleeper/rice-burner, and being here in Venezuela does have some advantages: like no testing cars for emissions, (so basically I could do just about anything I want), and aided by the fact that gas is about $0.20 cents a gallon for premium 95 octane unleaded and about $0.15 cents for 91 leaded, so a guzzler is just up my alley.
Iím planning in the future to take my ride to the strip and get some surprising times, but that will come in the future. I planned to grow into the final product in stages, right now Iím looking for advice on how to proceed. The engine is standard, and will remain that way unless it really needs it; most likely not since engine blocks of those years had a high nickel content and are very resistant to wear, besides, it honly has 40K miles on it...
In the first stage I want to freshen up the heart of this big boy by changing all the gaskets, pistons, new rings, valves, guides, seals, springs and bearings, etc... Like the engine refresh kit with the performance upgrade from MTS or CadCompany. As this is a 1970 472c.i.d. engine, itís a 10:1 compression already. Iím thinking of a shaft rocker arm assemblies (maybe the adjustable roller ones) w/ forged pushrods and also going with a more aggressive cam (something up to 5200 rpm like the #10 or #15 grind) but keeping a somewhat civilized idle (this coming from a V-twin biker). Iíll try and keep the original transmission but upgrade it with a tow kit, or something else???, to handle the extra torque. A matched stall converter would be nice to balance out the drive train. And also headers are most likely needed as well as high performance Taylor 9mm or 10mm plug wires. I'm going for the 550hp/600+ ft-tq, so also the suspension and steering system will be upgraded along with poliurethane to replace all the ruber bushings and chassis suports.
Future upgrades planned: intake manifold adapter to hold a Holley/Weiand 460 BBF Stealth Intake Manifold bolted under a Holley Street Avenger 4150 mod# 80870 (870cfm), Hi-Tek low profile dual filter element, Holley 12-802 electric fuel pump with regulator, Fuel safety switch, MSD Pro-Billet distributor, MSD 7-AL-2 ignition module, electric water pump (if I can find one to fitÖ). Iíll also change to steel reinforced hoses/lines and plumbing all around, combing the electrical system, new valve covers, engine compartment dress/clean-up and paint. And as a last step, a full body custom multy layer ink paintjob will be in order (some tone on tone beaded gradations)
The interior will be ďmodifiedĒ as far as changing out the old worn out leather for newer leather, leaving the original seats and hiding the anchor points for the safety harness, re-carpeting with as true-to-original material as possible. Iím wishfull I can keep the stereo system original, but if not, Iíll upgrade to a hidden one. THE GAUGE CLUSTER WILL NOT BE TOUCHEDÖ (I will however have to design a removable gauge cluster to go over the tranny tunnel under the dash just for the strip). I do promise one thing, NO NEON.
I plan to make this a short to mid-term plan starting next month and planning on finishing around January of next year. Of course a budget has been set aside, but unfortunately not all improvements can be made at this time. I look forward to your suggestions and comments as well as any suggestions you may have.
Any an all comments are welcomed, actually encouraged in case you see something better or something really wrong...
Everything you've said is pretty much on the right track, but you might be over carburating a bit with an 870cfm Holley.If you run the #15 cam, you'll want to open up the ports some also.When you say "forged Pushrods" I take it that you meant forged connecting rods.Good choice.
Regular pushrods are fine. Just measure for length for lifter preload and proper valve lift. All the rocker shaft designs out there are different and have different rocker ratios. When you say #15 cam, which one are you talking about. The MT series or the VT. MT has more lift,less duration and the VT has more duration,less lift. If you chose more duration, remember that you'll be bleeding off a little compression with that cam. I'm using the MT15 on a 425CI.
Regular pushrods are fine. Just measure for length for lifter preload and proper valve lift. .
I'm most likely going to have to change them since the car had not been touched for a long time, besides, if I'm going to open it up, I might as well put in the good stuff right from the begining...
Originally Posted by Angela Desmond
All the rocker shaft designs out there are different and have different rocker ratios.
It's eigther going to be the MTS or the CadCompany ones. I'm leaning towards the adjustable ones.
Originally Posted by Angela Desmond
When you say #15 cam, which one are you talking about. The MT series or the VT. MT has more lift,less duration and the VT has more duration,less lift. If you chose more duration, remember that you'll be bleeding off a little compression with that cam. I'm using the MT15 on a 425CI.
It's eigther going to be the MT or the the SS 300 T cam kit ($329 incl. lifters and springs) from CadCo.
I'm really not trying to keep this project mild, but not going to absolutelly wild, but I do want to keep my options open for the future for if and when I do decide to go further, I'll allready have a starting point with parts that will work.
Yes, that's why I put H-beam rods in for a motor that won't see over 5500RPM's. One never knows what the future holds. The shaft rocker systems I've looked at aren't adjustable, which makes measuring pushrod length extremely important. Lifter preload is very important and you don't want to lose any valve lift, especially on the MT15 cam because it makes power more with valve lift than with duration. So, you have no choice but to go with new pushrods 'cause the stock ones won't be the right size. The ones sent with the rocker shaft may even be the wrong size (it's happened to me) so take your measurements carefully. The spring seats will have to be machined for hi-po springs or you'll get coil bind. Info should come with the cam and kit for how much to machine... One thing I've learned about the big caddies; never just take something out of the box, put it in the motor and run it without taking careful measurements. You'll sleep a lot better for it...Oh yea, almost forgot; get your checkbook ready