The intake manifold is quite easy, especially if your an experienced wrencher on other cars.
Removing throttle cable is a pain. Press in really hard with a small screwdriver on the little metal cylinder. All the plugs for sensors are pretty much sized so they can only go in one spot, so it isn't necessary to label them. It helps to have extra hands hold the main parts of the wiring harness apart when removing and installing manifold as it tends to fall into the valley. WHen the heads are exposed, I like to stuff rags in the ports to keep debris out of there.
There are a few studs in the middle, not just bolts. I use a small box and poke holes in the top and number them to keep them all in order for reinstallation. The studs usually have a sensor bracket or something that is held down with a nut over that, so remember to do that upon reinstallation.
There are two "hard" gaskets for the intake manifold, one on either side that lays across the head. The front and rear seals are actually made by gasket goop high-temp RTV in a tube (black stuff). Use a fair bead (1/4 to 3/8") all along the cleaned surfaces at the front and rear of the block where the intake will touch. Continue the bead about 1/2 to 3/4" up either side of each head so that when you lay the "hard" gaskets across the head the tabs of the gaskets will sit in the goop and be held into place (this is actually per factory service manual, from my memory). Allow the gasket goop to sit for ten or so minutes to harden slightly before setting intake back onto the block. The gasket goop should ooze a bit over the edge. Wait quite a few hours to set up before starting engine if possible. Watch out for the oil pressure switch on the back of the block.
There is a torque sequence and measurement for the manifold, as seen below. Make two passes, first is 71 in. lb. Final pass should be to 35 ft. lb. The TB can be in the way, but with a good swivel socket extension you should be able to get around it and a bracket.
) but just want to check to see if there is anything I might miss the first time. Do I need new intake bolts? I am not getting a performance one by any means, but my Intake is leaking oil in the back and it is getting worse by the day. I am going to buy some gaskets and have my intake planed and do it right the first time, just asking on some pointers on what others have done... Thanks!
I remember oen TSB I read stated the AIR pump produces condensation and puts it in the intake and produces hesitation in the car, but not into the ENGINE ITSELF!!!! Please help!
