Performance Air Intake?

Gwokable · #1 (**permalink**) 12-25-06, 05:50 AM

Is there such of an performance air intake system for a 88 caddy brougham with a 307? I'v tried the edelbrock air intake but honestly, it's a POS; no emissions system is hooked up properly with that thing on there and I dislike that, greatly. The main bottleneck is that stupid snorkle for the thermac. I can understand wanting to draw in fresh air and hot air during a cold engine but is that really worth the load from the pressure the constriction creates? More importantly, is it ok to mount the PCV leads (air compressor output and oil breather I believe) between the air cleaner and carb without some form of filtration mechanism? I never got the idea of sucking perfectly good pre-filtered exhaust from the engine to have it re-filtered by the air filter.

Since I have 2 air cleaner housings, I'v considered simply cutting off a 1/4th chunk of one air cleaner, getting some sheet metal and making a nice big radially-shaped air intake then mounting a modified thermac valve close to the center of the air intake, but if there's something I can buy I'd like to get that rather than manufacturing my own parts.

N0DIH · #2 (**permalink**) 01-01-07, 09:24 PM

I made a slick dual snorkel air cleaner for my 85 Cutlass. Cut off the old snorkel from another donor air cleaner with 3/8" additional matieral, pop riveted it onto the good air cleaner where I wanted it and cut an opening that I needed. I hooked up the thermacs to they worked for cold weather. Then I plumbed them to ram air from under the front bumper (by the way, RamAirRocket is where I got that name that I use on ImpalaSSforum.com).

That is the best you would ever need with a 307. Ram Air is helpful, it was noticeable at higher speeds. The Buick GN guys (GNTTYPE.com) has a good writeup if it survived the crash they had on using some home heater ducts to make a respectable underbumper ram air setup.

Gwokable · #3 (**permalink**) 01-02-07, 12:05 AM

You know, I was always wondering what I'd ever do with that other snorkel. My car came with no cap to it and I traded the performance one to a buddy for the default one.

Connecting the thermacs, however, I never would've guessed. It might be a good idea to find myself a way to connect the thermac hoses as well...hrm, waitaminut. I think I have some old exhaust parts, hamster maze pieces, extra-big radiator hose clamps, old vacuum cleaner hose, and some primer, RTV, shelack and rubberized coating.

Come summer it's time for some professional redneck engineering!

Then the ramair to finish it off. Hrm *thinks some more*, do I want horns sticking out of a custom grill or not...Naw, that'd make my cadillac look too much like bucktooth bill.

I just hope they never do an under-the-hood test here in illinois. :X

I'll have parts in there they'll never have even HEARD of.

And if I ever sell it, I can see a mechanic fixing a carb issue thinking "what the ****...is that, a hamster maze piece?".

N0DIH · #4 (**permalink**) 01-02-07, 01:29 AM

I did it careful enough that many thought it was all factory under the hood, same the ram air, which was not under the hood. I used all factory looking hoses and stuff. Even functioning thermacs. I disable thermacs in the summer, no need.... They hurt power for sure in the summertime maintaining at least 100F in the aircleaner.

Shoot, I have GOT to stop giving away my 307 tips....

Gwokable · #5 (**permalink**) 01-13-07, 03:57 PM

:X

Why? Makes my life soooo much easier. So you're saying to shut off the EFE and Thermac Systems during summer?

Makes good sense.

N0DIH · #6 (**permalink**) 01-13-07, 05:00 PM

The Thermac will maintain 100-110F temps (opening and closing the valve to the exhaust manifold) year round.

EFE, it can be run fine, it only runs for tops 3 min most anytime of the year. It is coolant temp managed, so if the coolant temp is over 100F, it shuts off.

The ramair for sure helped in higher speeds and higher rpm. It was well worth it. Wish I took pictures of it. I have the air cleaner picts somewhere but I need to find and scan.

N0DIH · #7 (**permalink**) 07-23-09, 04:03 PM

sorry to bring an old thread back, I like to document things.

http://www.gnttype.org/techarea/turbo/coldair.html

This is the site and link, which is very hard to find nowdays.

This will work on the Cadillac Broughams 78-92 without too much drama.

It make nice difference in summer when I blocked the Thermac's open, and in winter let the Thermac's manage temps, but when you nail it, they open and go cold air and the Ram Air lets in lots of cold air and you feel it nice.

It definately was nice going fast, you could tell there was improvement over not having it. As for the Ram Air Effect, vs just cold air, that is up in the air....

Good reading: http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c5-t...-or-truth.html

Quote:

Originally Posted by N0DIH

I made a slick dual snorkel air cleaner for my 85 Cutlass. Cut off the old snorkel from another donor air cleaner with 3/8" additional matieral, pop riveted it onto the good air cleaner where I wanted it and cut an opening that I needed. I hooked up the thermacs to they worked for cold weather. Then I plumbed them to ram air from under the front bumper (by the way, RamAirRocket is where I got that name that I use on ImpalaSSforum.com).

That is the best you would ever need with a 307. Ram Air is helpful, it was noticeable at higher speeds. The Buick GN guys (GNTTYPE.com) has a good writeup if it survived the crash they had on using some home heater ducts to make a respectable underbumper ram air setup.