Which exhaust bolt are the best(strongest) replacement for my existing ones
I have a 94 fleetwood with 124k miles.
Here is what ive done to it.
Transmission oil and filter
Engine oil and filter
plugs on the right side (waiting with the plugs on the other side untill i need to change the exhaust bolts)
checked front bearings
greased front end
Automobile(s): 1994 Cadillac Fleetwood Brougham (some show and some go!)
Re: exhaust bolts
Yep, I check in once a day except on the weekends most of the time. So be patient and I'm sure someone will come along and pitch in.
I used grade 8 bolts (right from the bins in the hardware store, I just took old crappy grade 5 bolts in with me and measured them up for length comparison).
GM also makes a direct replacement kit (pretty sure theirs are grade 8 also) that includes all new bolts of exact length, spacers, studs, nuts, etc. This was made and packaged together since so many LT1 vehicles with iron heads (B and D bodies) kept having broken bolts. Sorry, I don't know the part number.
But Dal will definitely know the number if you give him a call or email him (have patience getting ahold of him) -- he has an encyclopedia of GM parts info and numbers in his brain and supplies GM parts cheaper than anyone else in the country.
email: lockitup "at" bright.net
What else do i need to do?
I guess that depends on what your goals are with the car? Are you interested in performance mods or just general maintenance for now?
As for maintenance, I didn't see a new PCV valve on your list. I would also consider new spark plug wires if still original, as well as oxygen (o2) sensors.
Also consider disabling the AIR pump if it hasn't been already. It can introduce water (condensation, technically) into your air intake -- it will coat the MAF and give false readings, In worst case situations the water can even get into the engine. On your car you can simply unplug the pump at the wiring connector and then plug off the hose that runs into the airbox.
Speaking of coating the MAF, it should be routinely cleaned anyway (carefully, the little wires inside are delicate) with electrical parts spray cleaner and a Q-tip. May also be a good idea to clean out the throttle body with TB cleaner spray.
You can even consider the old Seafoam treatment through the brake booster vacuum hose if you think that you have carbon build-up (likely with your mileage). It's recommended that you change plugs AFTER this treatment, though.
1994 Cadillac Fleetwood- the sleeper project
2002 Pontiac Trans Am Collectors Edition WS6 Conv't- the show car
2002 Cadillac Eldorado Collectors Series # 1572
2006 Mini Cooper S BRG 6spd- the autox gokart
2014 Range Rover Sport V8 Supercharged- wife's daily driver
2014 Ram 1500 Laramie Hemi Crew 4x4- daily driver/tow vehicle
Blar, don't be mean. It's too early in the day for grumpiness. And I've been busy, haven't been patrolling the forums as much. Grade 8's are the way to go. As for the gaskets, I don't have advice. I've got to live with some snapped off boltsmyself, at least until I do a teardown.
If your really serious. With a 125 thou on the original motor it could be time to check the timing chain and gears for wear and looseness. Any slack at all on the timing chain would indicated the need for a replacement.
When putting it back together it would be a good time too for replacing the Opti-spark distributor cap.