What Would Cause My 1990 Brougham To Run Rich? It Has A 5.7l Under The Hood. I Have Changed The Coil And Performed A Full Tune-up. I Tested The Volts Form The Battery And The Alternator. The Battery Is At 13.9v. I Read That It Should Be Around 14.2. Would This Make The Car Run Rich? Also I Am Experiencing The Shudder Every Once In Awile And The Stalling In Reverse That Dopestar Was Experiencing. When I Did The Tune-up I Did Not Gap The Plugs. I Am Assuming This Would Not Cause That. Thanks In Advance For The Info.
Well, pull a few of the plugs and let's have a look at them. There's a few different things that would be causing the engine to run rich, but most would throw trouble codes. How is your timing? Check that, it'll make a world of difference if it's off even a few degrees. The alternator is just getting old, don't worry about it. When it drops into the 12's, then it's time to worry. Not gapping the plugs is an easy mistake that rarely has repurcussions, it wouldn't be anything like what you're experiencing. But pull a few plugs, and check them. There's a lot of guides with pictures on the internet, this one is decent.
I Pulled The Plugs, They Were Fine. Also Changed The Fuel Filter And Cat. It Ran Okay For A While, Then It Started Back. Could The Tank Be Dirty. When I Changed The Fuel Filter, Alot Of Dirty Gas Came Out. I Mean Gritty. I Might Pull The Fuel Filter Off Again To See If Its Dirty.
I Think Its Running Rich Because Of The Way The Exhaust Smells. Its A Real Strong Smell, Not Like Gas, But A Real Bad Exhaust Smell. I Know When I Changed The Cat It Helped A Little Bit. I Checked The Hoses And I Did Not Find Anything. I Do Hear A Hissing Sound When The Car Is Started. I Spent An Hour Looking To See If Any Hoses Were Damaged. I Found Nothing. Could The Hesitation Be A Converter Problem. It Idles Fine When Its In Park.
Nah, you'll need a timing light. Good tool to have, but if you don't want to pick one up, most parts stores will let you rent one. If you want a little extra pep, I have the timing on my 90 advanced 10 degrees and I run at least 91 octane. The light and mid throttle response is much snapier.
Checking the timing is very easy to do, you start with hooking the timing light up. 3 cables, one you hook to the battery's +, the other to the battery's - then the one with the odd-looking clamp goes around the #1 cylinder's spark plug wire. Look at the large wiring bundle that runs infront of the blower motor to behind the distributor. There should be a tan and black wire with a connect that sticks out of the wire shroud. Disconnect this connection. Now start the car, and aim the timing light down onto the balancer. You'll see the marks lining up with whereever your timing is currently. If it's retarded before 0, that's a problem. A distributor wrench (at any auto parts store) allows you to loosen the distributor and turn it by hand while the engine is running, thus retarding or advancing the timing. Feel free to ask questions, that's what we're here for. The guys at the parts store can help you out a lot too! Good luck!