Though, I had a thought... If you have the $$, and the time, interest, and inclination... Why not just crate motor it? GM sells the Fastburn 385, there's a ton of companies the offer various crate smallblocks, it'd almost seem easier to get a fresh motor. Unless you have a killer deal on an LT1 nearby, and plan on the rest of the power mods at a later date... It's just one of those things... There's Smallblocks getting worked pretty far into the 400's as I recall. Would give a lot of torque, which is what you'll need on the FWB. Random thoughts.
well im gettin this LT1 for 1500. that was the price i was given to get the original engine rebuilt so i figured i would get an LT1 cause i like these engines. how much are those crate motors? that sounds like a better idea.
With GM's legendary Fast Burn cylinder heads and 383 cubic inches, the ZZ383/425 delivers incredible torque with smooth, linear delivery. If you're looking for a small-block package that delivers big-block power, then you've found it. 425 horsepower at an incredibly low 5400 RPM, and 460 ft-lbs. of torque at 4500 RPM make this the ideal hot street engine or off road powerhouse.
The excellent air handling and combustion characteristics of the Fast Burn cylinder heads combined with the ZZ383/425's 3.800" stroke, make this engine the benchmark against which all other 383 inch small-blocks should be measured. And it's tough, too. The 4340 nitrided and induction hardened crank and unique forged PM rods see to that. The 9.1 to 1 compression ratio ensures that the ZZ383/425 is 92 octane pump gas friendly.
The ZZ383/425 gets a stout .509/.528 lift steel camshaft, with 222/230 duration at .050 lift. Hydraulic roller lifters and GM's time tested 1.5 to 1 roller rocker arms round out the valve train. And, of course, it has the Fast Burn head's lightweight stainless steel valves and retainers for reliable performance at extended RPM.
GM's testing was completed using a GM single plane intake, P/N 12496822 and a 750 CFM Demon carburetor with mechanical secondaries. Test header specs are: 1 3/4" primaries, 33 inches long with 4-inch collectors.
GM dual plane intake P/N 12366573 may be used for hood clearance on the ZZ383/425, but results in a decrease in peak horsepower of approximately 15-20 horsepower.
GM Crate Engines are horsepower rated to SAE Standards.
Technical Notes: ZZ 383/425 Technical Information
Horsepower 425 @ 5400 RPM
Torque 449 @ 4500 RPM
Max. Recommended RPM 6000
Compression Ratio 9.1:1
Partial Engine 12499106
Block 88962516 Four bolt main, cast iron
Crankshaft 12489436 Steel "4340"
Connecting Rods 12497624 PM rods
Pistons.005 O/S 12499103 High silicon aluminum
Piston Rings .005 O/S 12499107
Cylinder Heads 12464298
Head Gasket 10105117 (.28 thick)
Intake Valves 12555331 2.00"
Exhaust Valves 12551313 1.55"
Valve Springs 12551483
Rocker Arms 12370838 1.5:1 roller rockers kit
Tortional Damper 12498008
Flex Plate 14088765
Lifters 5232720 Flat Tappet
Spark Plugs R 44LTS or R42LTS for racing
Fuel Premium 92 octane or greater
Ignition Timing 32º total @ 3000 RPM with vacuum advance disconnected
Figure you might pay between 1500-3500 though for a full crate motor. Be prepared to hear prices as high as 5k though. The advantages to going crate though, is you will possibly see a warranty, you'll have a new motor, and some of these come with the power you want. So, you wont have to hunt down performance parts or anything.
As a note, I put the stats on the 383 mostly for the nice torque numbers. 449 @ 4500 rpms is going to be a useful stat. If you mate that with probably about a 3.23 or 3.73 rear end, and a strong enough tranny, it will get even the big FWB moving off the line. But, that's just me, I'm a fan of torque too.
the 383 is 2500. not to bad but to get it put in and all it would be looking at a nice chunk of change. i got the money but im not sure i wanna do it. i might get that LT1. the guy said that the engine looks damn good to be a 8 year old engine. he is gonna see how many miles it has. it was recorded when it was brought to the junk yard but he dont remember. my dad is gonna call around to see who can put it in and how much.
Automobile(s): 08 SRX4 04 DeVille(Traded In) 92 Coupe DeVille-gone
Re: got a question
To put the LT1 in, you will need the wiring harness for the engine and transmission. Your 93 is TBI with a the 4RL60 trans. the 96 has the 4RL60E (electronic). The 96 is also OBD II emissions, although www.pcmforless.com can program a computer to change it to OBD II. I think that Painless wiring may be able to supply a harnes for the switch. Motor mounts will be the same. For more info about the different mechanicals on the engines, check out the NAISSO forum www.naisso.net and www.impalassforum.com
I get a lot of good info from them for my Olds.
I like the idea of the LT1, but I am leaning towards rebuilding mine and stroking it to the 383. That GM 383 is also a nice set up. I am pretty sure that pcmforless can hook you up with the chip.
hey thanks man. im not sure what im gonna do yet. so many good ideas i just havent figured out. a guy i know said hed do all the rebuilding and everything for 1500 final price. the 383 will be 2500 plus all the other stuff i have to get im probably looking at between 3500 and 4500 final price. and the LT1 1500 plus everything ill need for it so itll be between 3000 and 4000 final price. kind of a hard decision. i love the LT1 engines and i wouldnt mind having a brand new engine either. but the stock engine they wouldnt have to do much. so what to pick? i also cant have this car away too long cause for right now its the only car i got. my Lincoln is broke down (air ride went out.)
93fleetwoodlowlow, please let me know what you end up doing. I also have a 1993 fleetwood and have been toying around with engine options. Hey did you ever fix that steering twitch that you had?? My fleet also has developed the same problem. What did you end up doing?