Remo,

The colors of the wires have already been posted a few times on here, but I can't recall anyone posting an actual picture (in pdf format to boot!) of the connectors. Kudos and thanks!!! :worship:

However.

Having added an aftermarket sub & amp myself, I can tell you there isn't a single wire amongst any of the wires on that side of the car that will provide you with 12 volts for your amp. First, they're all in the 3-6 volt range if I remember correctly (thanks Bose) and second, they all give voltage spikes whenever you lock or unlock your doors or open the trunk. In other words, those 3-6 volts is probably not enough to consistently trigger your amp, and even if it does your amp will be turning off and on during the above situations. In my setup, this gave my sub a big THUMP each and every time I entered my car or opened the trunk (even with the car off). I put up with this for a while, but the problem eventually solved itself when the amp no longer turned on at all with the given voltage.

Furthermore (LOL), none of the wires above the battery provide you with 12 volts whenever the stereo system is powered. Yes - even the wires that run to the 2 stereo-related fuses do not do what you would expect them to. Talk about frustrating!

In the end, I chose a wire above the battery that provides 12 volts whenever the ignition is on. There are no voltage spikes, and the only disadvantage to this is you don't have power to the amp when the key is in the accessory position. So if you're parked, you either have to go without your sub, or turn the key to the ON position.

If you decide to get out the voltmeter and end up finding something different than I explained, please let us know. Good luck.

Here's a picture of the wire I used. There is a plastic cover over these wires that needs to come off first.

Tony

 

Thanks for the reply. I tried to use the connection you suggested, but I could not find a pin that was switched on the row you connected to. I plan on spending some time this weekend and get close to finishing my install.

 

I'm not sure what you mean by not finding a pin on that row. I tapped into the red wire with the yellow arrow.

Tony

 

For what it's worth. I have the primary audison bitone serve as the main remote switch to all of the other remaining audio components in my car (secondary bitone & 3 amps).

The first bitone is triggered off of the accessory switch. This means that when I open the doors/trunk, the system turns on (with exception to the factory head unit) and turns back off after the interior accessories (dome lights, etc.) turn off.

I'm also using a dual battery isolator which allows the system to run off a single battery while the car is in accessory mode, but when the key is turned to the "on" position the system is draining both batteries. Similarly, when the car is running, both batteries are getting charged. This was done this way to ensure that if I operated the system with the car off, the main battery wouldn't be tapped by the almost 300 amps of draw that the system is generating.

I know that this wasn't a good response to your question but maybe you'll be able to find something that will help in here.

 

Oh, I thought you added that wire yourself because I do not have that wire in my connection box.

 

Really? Wow...that's weird. Does your car have nav? Mine does. I wonder where that wire ends up going to?

I would imagine that another wire in that cluster might have a 12 volt switched lead. If not, I know there are a few in the driver's side dash behind the panel that faces the door when the door's closed. I'm sure that panel has a name... LOL

Tony

 

Remo:

Thanks for the wiring schematics. At first I had my remote turn on wire from my aftermarket amp connected to the 12 volt wire next to the fuse panel just like Tony has his. Since I didn’t want to always have the key in the start position in order for the amp to cut on I later decided to use the remote turn on wire from Invisicord install (solid yellow wire). Now I can have the key in the accessory position and enjoy sound from my aftermarket amp and sub.

http://www.cadillacforums.com/forum.../cadillac-cts-v-series-forum-2009/157915-v1-hardwire-blendmount-invisicord.html

 

readyact:
So, you ran a wire from the rear view mirror back to the trunk?

Tony407:
My car has everything but Recaros. My build date was 10/2008. I might just have an older setup. I added a wire to the pin for the wire you tapped into, but it is not switched in my car. It supplied constant power.

Your also right about tapping into the Bose amp wires. I couldn't find anything that would work. The wire I was hoping to use is not in my pin layout and nothing else would work.

Man why the hell won't the signal sense turn on work on the MTX REQ! I was counting on that :banghead:. Oh well, back to the drawing board.

Thanks for the help.

 

Got the MTX RE-Q to turn on with signal sense. I had to tap into the front right and left speaker signals and connect them to the RE-Q harness. Now the RE-Q box turns on with the Bose amp then sends a remote power on signal to my amp.

It's about time. The stupid install instructions didn't say anything about needed the other speaker inputs.

Now to start finishing up my install.

 

So I am curious, why not take one of those 3-6 Volt wires and use it to trip a relay that has a constant 12V? It's possible that the 6 volt MIGHT trip the standard 12V 5-pin relay, but I doubt it. However, there are a TON of relay types out there, and I have to believe that one of them would work.

 

I'm not an expert on relays, but I'm using a standard Bosch relay.

Interestingly enough, it worked for a while but then mysteriously quit - regardless of using another relay or none at all. And that went for all the Bose wires on that side of the trunk. I can't explain it.

Don't forget, you also get those damned voltage spikes too, which are a completely different problem above and beyond the substandard voltage.

Tony

 

Bose amp wiring

Can anyone tell me which wires on that Bose amp you used to get the high level audio signal from?? I'm trying to add a sub, I tryed taking the signal from pins 4,5 and 11,12 out of connector x3 but it's not working for me!?

 

One way is to Buy a 6v to 12v converter from ebay. $30. Have someone turn the key on/off and check for a 6v signal at the amp.

Or buy a line converter from audiocontrol, It will power on once it receives a signal from your speaker wires and also gives you a 12v output signal for your amp. They call it GTO great turn on I think.
Funny to see people running wires through the firewall.

 

It's been discussed a few times that the wire from the pic above is not in every year V. The 10s definitely don't have any ignition switched wires in that location. All year Vs can either use the rear view mirror wire (wouldn't be my choice) or tap in to the ignition switched pink wires just inside the drivers side instrument panel. When you open the drivers side door, that side panel pops out and gives easy access to pink wires on one of the visible connectors.

 

I could use some help with schematics for display motor control, the display on my 2012 CTS will not raise.

 

hey bud, do you happen to have the pcb schematics for the bose amp for a 2007 mazda cx-9

 

There has been no activity on this thread for nearly eight years.
Thank you for your interest in CADILLAC Forums.

 

yah, got the complete wire schematics for the Bose amp. Actually I have the schematics for every wire connector in the car, only putting up the Bose amp ones for now. A PDF with the schematics is attached. Now, to find a possible remote power on wire for my amp .

I will have to get out my voltometer and see what I can find this weekend. Pin 8 on the X3 connector sounds promising.

I'll post up what I come up with, if anything. Hopefully someone brighter then me can use the schematics. Just hook me up if you do something cool 👍.

Is this the same as an 2012 srx bose amp?

 

He hasn't logged in for over 11 years ............