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[DIY] Install CTS-V Brembo Brakes on CTS - part numbers, pics, etc

125K views 186 replies 41 participants last post by  redheadedrod 
#1 · (Edited by Moderator)
PLEASE READ!
Now that I have completed the MOD there are things I would change if I could. First, I would have ALL the parts before starting (I did not). Second, I would do the install in “BLEED” order:
  • Right Rear
  • Left Rear
  • Right Front
  • Left Front
This way, when you’re done with the install, you bleed it and you’re done. So read all the parts here and then do the install in the order listed above.


After asking many questions concerning the possibility of putting 2009-2012 CTS-V Brembo brakes on the 2008-2012 CTS and getting answers from “it can’t be done” to “it may work” I decided to give it a try. I got my courage from the fact that JDP Motorsports sells a kit using the same parts. So here it is.
I had to break this up into three parts because the system will only allow 15 photos. I have way more then that.
  • Part 1, GETTING STARTED,
  • Part 2, DISASSEMBLY (FRONT)
  • Part 3, INSTALL NEW PARTS (FRONT)
  • Part 4, DISASSEMBLY & INSTALL NEW PARTS (REAR)
    BLEEDING BRAKES AND BED IN THE NEW PADS

[DIY] Install CTS-V Brembo Brakes on CTS (Part 1, GETTING STARTED)

Disclaimer: This Mod is being performed on my 2008 CTS RWD w/FE2 option and 19” CTS-V wheels. I will not address the CTS 4 though I have found no reason to believe it will not work on any 2008 – 2012 CTS with 18” wheels. So, take some time to measure your wheels for clearance.
Here is a link to JDP Motorsport that may help.

http://www.jdpmotorsports.com/media...fb8d27136e95/c/t/ctsv_specs_copy.jpg~original

The parts list:
Parts cost change almost daily so this is as close as I could get. I can say the pare numbers are the ones I used. As you can see, the rotors account for 1/3 of the total cost. There are hundreds of rotors available for the CTS-V. If the OEM Brembo rotors listed are not to your liking then any rotor made for the 2009 – 2012 CTS-V should work and save you $$$.



My calipers started life Yellow with V logos but thanks to the magic of VHT Red and Clear Caliper paint and some Brembo Logos they are now Red. The Yellow was beautiful but I didn’t want to use the V logo. The directions on the VHT can are not clear with respect to curing the paint. Here is what I did:

READ THE CAN! I got much of the following via phone with VHT.

1. Sand the flat area of the V logo with 1200 wet paper. If you are going back with same color then do not sand more then that area.

2. Sand or Red Scotch Brite Pad (VHT recommendation) the whole caliper, it comes with the input hole plugged with a blue stopper so it is waterproof.

3. Use hair dyer or let it set overnight.

4. Mask off the area not to be painted. In my case that was the bleeders, inlet hole, pistons and the area where the ends of the pads contact. I used Blue painters tape for masking, tested a sample in advance, and it had no problem throughout the process.

5. If keeping the Yellow, mask all but the flat surface where the V logo is. Go to the edge so if the paint does not match exactly it won't mater so mush. You can use printer paper for the large areas.

6. Paint, two light coats followed by one wet coat. Wait 10 min. after each coat.

7. As soon as it’s dry to the touch, 20 min, very carefully apply the logos. Pressed on the letters and try not to stick down the backing tape to much. Remove the backing tape and ensure the letters are flat.

8. If you are keeping Yellow remove all the masking. The clear will help cover the ledge created by the tape.

9. Apply two coats of VHT clear.

10. Number 6 thru 8 must be done within one hour.

11. Now, send your wife shopping while you hang them in the oven at 200 degrees for one hour.


It's paint. The worst that could happen is you get new logos and start over.

I got the stickers here:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/230778598205...S:1123&vxp=mtr






Tools:

  • Jack
  • Jack Stand
  • Shop Rags
  • Hand Ceaner
  • More Shop Rags
  • Chock blocks
  • T27 Torx (Caliper Screw)
  • 10mm Socket (Speed Sensor)
  • 11mm Box Wrench (Small, for bleeder valve)
  • 12mm Socket (Banjo Bolt) *
  • 1/2 in Socket (Caliper Pin Bolt) *
  • 19mm (3/4”) Socket (Caliper Bolts) *
  • 22mm Socket (Lug Nuts) *
  • 9/16 Open End (Brake Lines)
  • 7/8 Open End (Brake Lines)
  • 3/4 Open End (Brake Lines)
  • Torque Wrench (mine only goes to 150 lb ft)
  • Brake Fluid. 1 liter (see below)
  • Catch Pan for fluid spells
* These Sockets must fit drive size of your torque wrench.

Torque Specs:

(2011 CTS-V Service Manual)
  • Wheel Lug Nuts 140 lb ft
  • Front Hub Bolts 100 lb ft
  • Front Caliper Bolts 166 lb ft
  • Front Caliper Guide Pin Bolt 48 lb ft
  • Rear Hub Bolts 100 lb ft
  • Rear Caliper Bolts 96 lb ft
  • Rear Caliper Guide Pin Bolt 20 lb ft
  • Brake Hose Banjo Bolt 36 lb ft

These are the parts needed for the front brakes:



And the Rear brakes. New bolts required are in parts list but not shown here:



B]The Goodridge brake lines:[/B]







NEXT – PART 2, DISASSEMBLY – When you have all the parts and tools together, go to part 2.
 
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#2 · (Edited by Moderator)
[DIY] Install CTS-V Brembo Brakes on CTS (Part 2, DISASSEMBLY, FRONT)

Depending on how much equipment you have at your disposal you can use a lift, put the car on four jack stands, one end at a time with two jack stands, or even do one wheel at a time. At a minimum you will need a jack and one jack stand for safety. I will be going with the “one wheel at a time” method.

I found it helpful to turn the steering to lock in the direction that gives you the best access to where you are working. This gives ample room to work behind the rotor with large tools. I turned my wheel from lock to lock two or three times in order to remove and install bolts and the car did not even try to move on the jack. However, USE CAUTION WHEN DOING THIS!!

First, chock the rear wheels then loosen the lug nuts about ½ turn with the lug wrench that came with your car or a breaker bar/torque wrench and a 22mm socket and short extension.

Loosen Lug nuts ½ turn:


Jack and support car:
Now raise the car with a jack under the frame until the wheel can be moved freely then place the jack stand under the frame beside the jack for safety.




Remove wheel:


Back of caliper:


Remove and secure brake line: Put a catch pan under the rotor because the fluid will flow from the caliper. Remove the clamp first and be prepared to raise the line as high as possible and secure it so fluid will stop leaking . Mine fell twice and leaked a pint of fluid on the driveway.


Remove 2 caliper bolts:


Remove caliper:


Remove rotor screw:


Remove rotor:


Old and new rotors, caliper and pads:


Remove speed sensor:


Remove 3 hub bolts:


Remove hub and Splash Guard:


Old and new Splash Guards:


Clean up the area. Now that you have all the crap out of the way why not clean the fender well, steering knuckle, spring and anything else you can see to get ready to put back new parts.

Nothing was hard to get to or remove by moving the wheel for clearance.

NEXT - INSTALL NEW PARTS
 
#3 · (Edited by Moderator)
[DIY] Install CTS-V Brembo Brakes on CTS (Part 1, GETTING STARTED)

I had to trim one tab on the hub splash cover because the fly cut on the steering knuckle of my 2008 was too small. I have no idea in what year they will fit without cutting. This was the only part that did not bolt on correctly.

Re-install hub with new Splash Guards (Torque=100 lb ft):


The two Splash Guards. What kind of "splash" will this guard?


Hub bolts Torque=100 lb ft


Re-install speed sensor:


Install new rotor with old screw:


Install new caliper with new bolts (166 lb ft): WOW that’s a lot, not sure I got there because my torque wrench only goes to 150 lb ft.



Installing the pads in the Calipers can be done in advance if you wish. Might be easier on your garage workbench. The process is the same. (As you will see in the upcoming install of the rear brakes, I did pre-assemble the calipers.) Torquing the guide pin bolt to 48 lb ft may be easier after the caliper in mounted. If you pre-assemble, don't forget the grease!

Remove caliper guide pin bolt:



Install new Pads. Apply Grease to the ends of the pad brackets (careful not to get any in the pad surface or rotor) and on all six caliper pistons where they contact the pads (supplied with Hawk Pads). The pads are the same for both sides.



Install the top guide pin from the rear and seat with hammer and punch.


Re-install the Caliper Guide Pin Bolt (48 lb ft) and Brake Line (36 lb ft) and reconnect the brake line support bracket.



I’m sorry. I got mixed up in my photo taking sequence. In the following two photos the Guide Pin Bolt should be in place as it is in the one above.


Install the end of the pad retaining spring under the guide pin with “T” under the tabs on the pads. (As shown in photo)



Push down the lower end of the spring and insert the lower guide pin from the rear. Seat with hammer. (As shown in photo)



Bleed: Well that depends, see below. For now I will show you this mess of hoses which I will be using later



Install wheel (140 lb ft): Wheel with new caliper:



Now step back and admire the results.

If you are going to take a break here and do the rear brakes later (as I am because I don’t have all the parts for the rear yet) you will need to bleed the front brakes and "Bed In" the pads. I have no friend to help with the "old pump and hold" method so I used the Phoenix Injector in the suck mode to get the air out of the front brakes then did the bed in process. All is well but I cannot give any raving reviews yet. Have to wait for the rear brakes and let things "bed in" read good. Also, I thing the steel lines will help with paddle feel. When I complete the rear I will flush the system.

Hawk Performance Bed In / Burnishing Procedure

  • 1. After installing new brake pads, make 6 to 10 stops from approximately 30-35 mph applying moderate pressure.
  • 2. Make an additional 2 to 3 hard stops from approximately 40 to 45 mph.
  • 3. DO NOT DRAG BRAKES!
  • 4. Allow 15 minutes for brake system to cool down
After step 4 your new pads are ready for use.


After all 4 corners are done I recommend flushing the entire system with a few pints of (colored) high temp DOD 4/5 fluid.

Examples of high temp, racing fluids:
  • Motul RBF 600 DOT 6 (Red) $19 - 2 pints
  • ATE Super Type 200 also comes in (Amber) $15 - 1 quart

If you are NOT going to flush the entire brake system, 2-3 pints of DOT 3 /4 brake fluid of your choice should be fine for bleeding all four corners.

---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Steps for Front

1. Turn the steering to lock in the opposite direction to where you will be working
2. Loosen Lug nuts ½ turn
3. Raise and support car
4. Remove wheel
5. Remove and store brake line
6. Remove caliper bolts
7. Remove caliper
8. Remove rotor screw and rotor
9. Remove speed sensor
10. Remove hub bolts
11. Remove hub and Splash Guard
12. Clean up area
13. Install hub and new backing plates (100 lb ft)
14. Install speed sensor
15. Install new rotor and screw
16. Install new caliper and new bolts (166 lb ft)
17. Remove caliper guide pin bolt
18. Connect brake line (36 lb ft)
19. Apply grease to caliper and pads
20. Install new pads
21. Install caliper guide pin bolt (48 lb ft)
22. Install pin kit
23. Bleed
24. Install wheel (140 lb ft)
25. Bed in Pads

That’s it for the front brakes and all the Texas heat I can take for now.

  • Part 4, DISASSEMBLY (REAR)
  • Part 5, INSTALL NEW PARTS (REAR)
  • Part 6, BLEEDING BRAKES AND BED IN THE NEW PADS


I'm sticking this here for later use.

Proper Bleed Order:

1. Passenger Rear – INNER
2. Passenger Rear - OUTER
3. Driver Rear - INNER
4. Driver Rear - OUTER
5. Passenger Front - INNER
6. Passenger Front - OUTER
7. Driver Front - INNER
8. Driver Front - OUTER
 
#5 ·
Re: [DIY] Install CTS-V Brembo Brakes on CTS (Part 1, GETTING STARTED)

I guess I did intermix those two terms. I think the term "backing plate" comes from the drum brake days when the shoes mounted on the "backing plate". I guess that applies to the back of the CTS because the parking brake shoes mount to the backing plate. No backing plate on the front so I will edit.
 
#10 ·
Re: [DIY] Install CTS-V Brembo Brakes on CTS (Part 3, INSTALL NEW PARTS, FRONT)

Can the oem brake line be utilized or do we need the stainless lines? What is the V line made of?
The simple answer includes a question: Yes you can use the oem lines. But why would you? Check this out. It's from LS1Tech but the work is being done on a GEN1 CTS-V. Should answer your question. In fact I may steal some quotes from it for my DIY. SHHH, don't tell anyone.
http://ls1tech.com/forums/cadillac-...-stainless-steel-brake-line-installation.html
 
#12 ·
Re: [DIY] Install CTS-V Brembo Brakes on CTS (Part 3, INSTALL NEW PARTS, FRONT)

Has anyone wonder how you can get away with removing and reinstall the hub without doing a wheel alignment?

I was also surprised that the rear flange on the hub is not an exact fit (to the .001") into the bore hole of the steering knuckle. The only thing aligning the hub is the three bolts.
 
#14 ·
Re: [DIY] Install CTS-V Brembo Brakes on CTS (Part 1, GETTING STARTED)



Thanks. This is a simple to install upgrade but the parts are still expensive. For most people the probably can't be justified. But there are those of us who love mods like this and I think you are one of them.

I apologize for the delay in doing the rear but I still have to get some of the parts (need money) and the Goodridge lines are still three weeks out. I'm hoping by the week of 8 July to complete everything. Best Guess.

Now is the time to start collecting the parts. Hopefully the sources I listed will keep things in stock. Goodridge is a real problem. They say a manufacture run of our lines will be done soon so get your order in to Wundercarparts.
 
#17 ·
Re: [DIY] Install CTS-V Brembo Brakes on CTS (Part 1, GETTING STARTED)

Nicely done. I am not sure if I will do this, but I have thought of it. Good write up. Any difference with just the fronts installed?
 
#18 · (Edited)
Re: [DIY] Install CTS-V Brembo Brakes on CTS (Part 1, GETTING STARTED)

UPDATE: Things are coming together. Got the Goodridge lines today and the rear calipers will be here tomorrow. The rear backing plates and rotors are also on the way.

I was looking at the price list and realized that more then 1/3rd of the cost is in rotors. I have always questioned my decision to go with the Brembo (OEM) 2 piece rotors on the front due to cost. So, sense the rear brakes are good for nothing but parking anyway, I have decided to cut cost I will go with Centric 125.62119 rotors on he rear. (Cost for OEM = $427.80, Centric = $164.88, savings = 262.92 shipped.

I will add these to the price list and you can choose.

I knew I would have to paint the hat on the OEM rotor black to match the front and the Centric is black.

EDIT: Decided to just put in a statement about rotor availability and cost.


I really hope to finish this by Christmas...just kidding. Next week.
 
#20 ·
Re: [DIY] Install CTS-V Brembo Brakes on CTS (Part 3, INSTALL NEW PARTS, FRONT)

Amazing writeup! :D
They look great!
How do they feel? Was it worth it?
Thanks. To be honest the feel is good but it's not fair to judge until the work is done. The rear brakes and braded lines will be done in a few days. The real problem with judging them now is that I did not do a proper job of bleeding the system following the front install. That will come after the rear and line are done.
 
#21 · (Edited)
Re: [DIY] Install CTS-V Brembo Brakes on CTS (Part 1, GETTING STARTED)

I was doing some research on the part numbers for the rear backing plates for the CTS-V vs CTS and found that they are the same numbers on 2009 up. This is no doubt due to the introduction of the electronic parking brake in 2009. So it looks like you will not need to change them on 2009 up CTS. However, this does bring into question the ability retro these to the 2008. We shell see.
 
#23 ·
Re: [DIY] Install CTS-V Brembo Brakes on CTS (Part 1, GETTING STARTED)

Where do you find the Hawk front brake pads for 106.52? The cheapest I found is 156.93 on amazon.
OK, you caught me. I had to go back and look at my Amazon order. If you shop Amazon much you know that if you look close you will often see something like "1 used from $68.96" and in my effort to get the lowers price I went there. Amazon does not sell used stuff, used to them is new item, scratched, in damaged box or maybe no box. Mine was a damaged box for $106.52. An example, at this moment the rear pads are $98.52 but can be had for $68.96 with cosmetic damage. Cosmetic damage on a brake pad? Good deal!

Now, I forgot and never should have used that price on my price list so I will correct it. That said, prices change and at the moment $168.48 in the lowest I see on Amazon. Free shipping. There are lower prices around but shipping cost brings the total above Amazon. The source and price I listed was the price I paid and the best I could find during the weeks I spent looking.

PS: the picture of Hawk Performance HB649Z.605 is not correct on amazon and that screwed me up for a long time.

I was just lucky that day (31 May 2013)
 
#24 ·
Re: [DIY] Install CTS-V Brembo Brakes on CTS (Part 1, GETTING STARTED)

If someone is truly going to do this mod and keep Yellow but change to Brembo logos, I have a set of Black logos I will give you if you PM a place to mail. 1st come.

This does mean I will have to see pictures of your work to verify you used them.
 
#25 ·
Re: [DIY] Install CTS-V Brembo Brakes on CTS (Part 1, GETTING STARTED)

I have that old KNOCK in the left rear over bumps so when I do the rear Bembo Brakes I will replace the knuckle. The right one was replaces a little a year ago.

It's not a mod but do you guys think I should do a photo sequence of the process and document it in another thread? Has anyone done this? I have not seen it anywhere. I will replace the entire knuckle as GM recommends, not the bushings only. When the dealer did the right side they listed a required 4 wheel alignment.

Parts cost $132.77 Shipped
 
#29 · (Edited by Moderator)
Re: [DIY] Install CTS-V Brembo Brakes on CTS (Part 1, GETTING STARTED)

So I went to wundercarparts, did a search on part #12238 but it doesn't return the brake line kit. I then started a chat with their rep and they say that part doesn't exist. What gives?
I have no idea. Order by phone: 888-986-3373 ext 1 (Sales)

Be sure to tell them it is a Goodridge part. Try giving my order number: PO# 22037101 for reference.


Shipping Information
UPS UPS Ground $0.00

Order Items
Qty Name SKU Price Grand Total
1 Goodridge Lines 12238 GDR_12238 $163.00 $163.00

SubTotal : $163.00
Shipping Total : $0.00
Tax Total : $0.00
Total: $163



 
#30 ·
Re: [DIY] Install CTS-V Brembo Brakes on CTS (Part 1, GETTING STARTED)

I will have all the missing parts next Wednesday. Amazon split the order for the rear backing plates. One will arrive tomorrow and the other next wednesday.

Waiting has been hard. Every time I have to stop at a light I just know the guy next to me is saying:

"WTF is wrong with this guy. He put Brembos only on the front."

So I just keep hang my head in shame.
 
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