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[DIY] Install CTS-V Brembo Brakes on CTS - part numbers, pics, etc

125K views 186 replies 41 participants last post by  redheadedrod 
#1 · (Edited by Moderator)
PLEASE READ!
Now that I have completed the MOD there are things I would change if I could. First, I would have ALL the parts before starting (I did not). Second, I would do the install in “BLEED” order:
  • Right Rear
  • Left Rear
  • Right Front
  • Left Front
This way, when you’re done with the install, you bleed it and you’re done. So read all the parts here and then do the install in the order listed above.


After asking many questions concerning the possibility of putting 2009-2012 CTS-V Brembo brakes on the 2008-2012 CTS and getting answers from “it can’t be done” to “it may work” I decided to give it a try. I got my courage from the fact that JDP Motorsports sells a kit using the same parts. So here it is.
I had to break this up into three parts because the system will only allow 15 photos. I have way more then that.
  • Part 1, GETTING STARTED,
  • Part 2, DISASSEMBLY (FRONT)
  • Part 3, INSTALL NEW PARTS (FRONT)
  • Part 4, DISASSEMBLY & INSTALL NEW PARTS (REAR)
    BLEEDING BRAKES AND BED IN THE NEW PADS

[DIY] Install CTS-V Brembo Brakes on CTS (Part 1, GETTING STARTED)

Disclaimer: This Mod is being performed on my 2008 CTS RWD w/FE2 option and 19” CTS-V wheels. I will not address the CTS 4 though I have found no reason to believe it will not work on any 2008 – 2012 CTS with 18” wheels. So, take some time to measure your wheels for clearance.
Here is a link to JDP Motorsport that may help.

http://www.jdpmotorsports.com/media...fb8d27136e95/c/t/ctsv_specs_copy.jpg~original

The parts list:
Parts cost change almost daily so this is as close as I could get. I can say the pare numbers are the ones I used. As you can see, the rotors account for 1/3 of the total cost. There are hundreds of rotors available for the CTS-V. If the OEM Brembo rotors listed are not to your liking then any rotor made for the 2009 – 2012 CTS-V should work and save you $$$.



My calipers started life Yellow with V logos but thanks to the magic of VHT Red and Clear Caliper paint and some Brembo Logos they are now Red. The Yellow was beautiful but I didn’t want to use the V logo. The directions on the VHT can are not clear with respect to curing the paint. Here is what I did:

READ THE CAN! I got much of the following via phone with VHT.

1. Sand the flat area of the V logo with 1200 wet paper. If you are going back with same color then do not sand more then that area.

2. Sand or Red Scotch Brite Pad (VHT recommendation) the whole caliper, it comes with the input hole plugged with a blue stopper so it is waterproof.

3. Use hair dyer or let it set overnight.

4. Mask off the area not to be painted. In my case that was the bleeders, inlet hole, pistons and the area where the ends of the pads contact. I used Blue painters tape for masking, tested a sample in advance, and it had no problem throughout the process.

5. If keeping the Yellow, mask all but the flat surface where the V logo is. Go to the edge so if the paint does not match exactly it won't mater so mush. You can use printer paper for the large areas.

6. Paint, two light coats followed by one wet coat. Wait 10 min. after each coat.

7. As soon as it’s dry to the touch, 20 min, very carefully apply the logos. Pressed on the letters and try not to stick down the backing tape to much. Remove the backing tape and ensure the letters are flat.

8. If you are keeping Yellow remove all the masking. The clear will help cover the ledge created by the tape.

9. Apply two coats of VHT clear.

10. Number 6 thru 8 must be done within one hour.

11. Now, send your wife shopping while you hang them in the oven at 200 degrees for one hour.


It's paint. The worst that could happen is you get new logos and start over.

I got the stickers here:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/230778598205...S:1123&vxp=mtr






Tools:

  • Jack
  • Jack Stand
  • Shop Rags
  • Hand Ceaner
  • More Shop Rags
  • Chock blocks
  • T27 Torx (Caliper Screw)
  • 10mm Socket (Speed Sensor)
  • 11mm Box Wrench (Small, for bleeder valve)
  • 12mm Socket (Banjo Bolt) *
  • 1/2 in Socket (Caliper Pin Bolt) *
  • 19mm (3/4”) Socket (Caliper Bolts) *
  • 22mm Socket (Lug Nuts) *
  • 9/16 Open End (Brake Lines)
  • 7/8 Open End (Brake Lines)
  • 3/4 Open End (Brake Lines)
  • Torque Wrench (mine only goes to 150 lb ft)
  • Brake Fluid. 1 liter (see below)
  • Catch Pan for fluid spells
* These Sockets must fit drive size of your torque wrench.

Torque Specs:

(2011 CTS-V Service Manual)
  • Wheel Lug Nuts 140 lb ft
  • Front Hub Bolts 100 lb ft
  • Front Caliper Bolts 166 lb ft
  • Front Caliper Guide Pin Bolt 48 lb ft
  • Rear Hub Bolts 100 lb ft
  • Rear Caliper Bolts 96 lb ft
  • Rear Caliper Guide Pin Bolt 20 lb ft
  • Brake Hose Banjo Bolt 36 lb ft

These are the parts needed for the front brakes:



And the Rear brakes. New bolts required are in parts list but not shown here:



B]The Goodridge brake lines:[/B]







NEXT – PART 2, DISASSEMBLY – When you have all the parts and tools together, go to part 2.
 
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#168 · (Edited by Moderator)
Re: Adding Brembo calipers to CTS coupe base

Everything in the picture is all that was needed. Not my opinion or assumptions but fact based off of I installed them on the car pictured myself and they work great with no noise at all.

It took me about 45 minutes per side.

I removed the wheel/hub bearing in order to remove the smaller dust plate.

The Brembo calipers mount directly to the holes where the old brake caliper bracket was removed but you must use longer bolts (you cannot reuse the bolts from your old brake caliper brackets).

No special caliper brackets are needed.

You can use the factory brake hoses currently on your car but it's recommended to upgrade to the steel mesh ones to eliminate brake fade for those who might track their ride. If it's just your daily I wouldn't even bother.

No need to replace (metal) brake lines to larger ones. The factory ones are more than sufficient. Just take a look at the Brembo's themselves, the crossover line on the Brembo caliper is the same diameter as on your car now.

No need to upgrade your master cylinder.

I've had mine on my car for over a week and had it on the track three times with zero degradation in braking ability. Quiet as a mouse as well.

Remember to follow the bleeding procedure and brake pad seating procedure.....it is a must.
What size is the replacement bolts you used?
 
#172 ·
Good job! This sounds like the ideal Brembo-on-a-budget upgrade that a lot have been waiting for, the front V1 calipers are cheeeap, but I just had to have the big V2 bananas showing through. Curious to hear about the caliper mounting bolts, the 2mm difference in diameter normally means that a bushing is required to keep the smaller bolts centered and in place.

Those look to be Camaro SS front rotors, they use 355mm front and 365mm rear. Yeah, the rear rotors are larger, just like the V1 has, but with a 5 bolt pattern instead of 6 bolt. When you do your rears, that'll be the size rotor to get, hopefully there's no proportioning/bias issues with the larger rear rotor.

Did you ditch the front dust shields then? I plan on just trimming mine down, front and rear, and reusing the stock brake hoses.
 
#173 · (Edited by Moderator)
I liked the V2's as well due to their sheer size but cost wise i couldn't convenience myself enough to drop that kind of loot :spin:

The bolts I used were a perfect fit with no modifications needed. I'm looking forward to doing the rears.

On one side I removed the shield completely but afterwards it hit me that it wasn't necessary so on the other side I just trimmed it down.
 
#175 ·
Without having to go through this thread from the beginning, does anyone know the weight burden of this upgrade to determine if the end result leans away from Brembo brakes toward Bimbo brakes? I'm guestimating at least 5 lbs of unsprung weight per corner.





I tried cheap tires before on a car and will never do that again. I recall the morning clearly on the way to work on a lightly wet road on a slight down grade. Hit the brakes approaching a light that had just changed and the car started sliding, let up and reapplied and still sliding, repeated that last sequence with the same result and this time just held them. I was so far back from the car ahead when the event began, It felt like I had time to call my insurance company to tell them what kind of car I was about to hit.

Fortunately the pickup towing a trailer ahead in the middle lane to my right (no escape to my left either) had trouble to, or saw me sliding and continued through the red light and I steered in right behind them and avoided the collision which would have been about an 8 mph impact at that point. Never stop driving, even in a slide the car can still be steered. I'll drive longer on nearly worn out quality tires before replacing them with a budget set with the stopping power of my childhood Big Wheel. It's not until you really need them to do their job that you realize the trade off. They were fine on dry roads where most are.
 
#178 ·
Fantastic write up!!!

You should put this on YouTube, even if it’s just showing the information & screen shots with you talking through the process.

When I can afford it; I’ll do the same to my 2009 CTS4 with 85,000 miles.

I love my car!!!

Maybe in the future, I’ll add a SuperCharger, but AFTER the brake upgrade.

Many thanks for the wonderful write up and sharing it with us!!!

Take care & stay safe!!!
 
#179 ·
Yea he meant nose heavy, not noise heavy..

As to brake weight... Since some V6 CTS's came with 19" rims (Unless the information I was given is wrong) and the CTS-V comes with 19" rims I would suspect the weight of those rims affecting the spinning weight will be more dependent on the quality of those rims and what metal they used than the size of the rim. There isn't much of a difference in size between an 18" rim and an 19" rim. If you go from an 18" rim and were to go to a 22" rim with lots of blades and chrome plating... Yea I would expect a huge weight penalty and since much of the weight is out further it would be very noticeable when driven regardless of the sidewall height of the tires.

The differences between rotor sizes I would think would be negligible on the spinning of the wheels since the rotors won't weigh that much different. Just get a set of nice looking, minimal aluminum rims and I would think you would be good. If you are that worried about the weight I am sure you could find carbon fiber rims but those likely would need to be replaced often if the roads are anything like they are around me... Until they can build durable carbon fiber rims anyhow.

The weight of the wheels can be a concern for sure. Heavier rims can be harder to get spinning and harder to stop.

Rodney
 
#184 ·
Is thread the best thread to discuss how to do this? With my new tires and prepping for the blower I want to upgrade the brakes as well to V brakes.

What are the options for V brakes on our cars? Go with the same gen as our cars? Newer? Which provide the best stopping power? I have 18" rims for winter, have the 19" spare already and will be putting 20" summer tires on my car when its not winter. :) I understand the V brakes clear the 18" OEM rims fine. I will likely keep the snow tires on those rims until I get rid of cars that can use them or stay south in the winters.

I assume this thread is putting V2 brakes on our cars.
Before I go back and read this thread in full, does this also do anything to the specs on the rims I need if I am going to try to go with the widest tires my car can handle?

Thanks!
 
#185 ·
Is thread the best thread to discuss how to do this? With my new tires and prepping for the blower I want to upgrade the brakes as well to V brakes.

What are the options for V brakes on our cars? Go with the same gen as our cars? Newer? Which provide the best stopping power? I have 18" rims for winter, have the 19" spare already and will be putting 20" summer tires on my car when its not winter. :) I understand the V brakes clear the 18" OEM rims fine. I will likely keep the snow tires on those rims until I get rid of cars that can use them or stay south in the winters.

I assume this thread is putting V2 brakes on our cars.
Before I go back and read this thread in full, does this also do anything to the specs on the rims I need if I am going to try to go with the widest tires my car can handle?

Thanks!
A V2 brake setup seems to be a "simple" bolt on for these. If you have AWD, you'll have to adjust the front calipers. Besides that, you'll just need to swap your bolts out for ones with a little more thread. As a result, your wheelbase will widen a smidge. Go back to the beginning of this thread. You'll find part numbers and a great step-by-step.
 
#187 ·
Ok, Reviving this thread again...
So I read the whole thread... If I understand everything. And note, I have the same 18" rims shown a page or so back that I use for winter and are in my current avatar picture.
I have aftermarket 20's x 9.5" rims for summer usage.

So need the same things basically front or back. Just different part numbers.
Splash Guard, Caliper, Caliper bracket, longer caliper bolts, Rotor, Pads, 10mm spacers, longer studs. I would go with new hubs with the longer studs since pulling the old ones will mess up the bearings. (Hub buster... Breaks the hubs bearings when you pull it out... Only way to NOT break the bearings is to press it out. )

I will likely change the rear knuckles too when I do this so I would likely make my life easier and just assemble the parts on the knuckles and then just throw the new knuckles on the car.
I would likely upgrade to the stainless steel brake lines as well at the calipers at least.

And for those not aware... Stainless steel lines are NOT to prevent brake fade. They are to stop the brake lines from swelling when brakes are applied. Standard brake lines are steel reinforced rubber that will slightly expand when you apply pressure. The stainless steel brake lines are covered in stainless steel mesh that allows them to still be totally flexible but prevents the brake lines from swelling under pressure thus allowing all of your brake pressure to apply to the calipers. They will feel stiffer and seem to apply with less effort.
 
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