Depending on how much equipment you have at your disposal you can use a lift, put the car on four jack stands, one end at a time with two jack stands, or even do one wheel at a time. At a minimum you will need a jack and one jack stand for safety. I will be going with the “one wheel at a time” method.
I found it helpful to turn the steering to lock in the direction that gives you the best access to where you are working. This gives ample room to work behind the rotor with large tools. I turned my wheel from lock to lock two or three times in order to remove and install bolts and the car did not even try to move on the jack. However, USE CAUTION WHEN DOING THIS!!
First, chock the rear wheels then loosen the lug nuts about ½ turn with the lug wrench that came with your car or a breaker bar/torque wrench and a 22mm socket and short extension.
Loosen Lug nuts ½ turn:
Jack and support car:
Now raise the car with a jack under the frame until the wheel can be moved freely then place the jack stand under the frame beside the jack for safety.
Back of caliper:
Remove and secure brake line: Put a catch pan under the rotor because the fluid will flow from the caliper. Remove the clamp first and be prepared to raise the line as high as possible and secure it so fluid will stop leaking . Mine fell twice and leaked a pint of fluid on the driveway.
Remove 2 caliper bolts:
Remove rotor screw:
Old and new rotors, caliper and pads:
Remove speed sensor:
Remove 3 hub bolts:
Remove hub and Splash Guard:
Old and new Splash Guards:
Clean up the area. Now that you have all the crap out of the way why not clean the fender well, steering knuckle, spring and anything else you can see to get ready to put back new parts.
Nothing was hard to get to or remove by moving the wheel for clearance.