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Reliability past the 100,000 mile mark

58K views 39 replies 21 participants last post by  Lifespeed 
#1 ·
so im looking at getting a cts up in the 100k+ mile range. a 2008 sedan at like 120k+ or a wagon at 100k+

so, how does the cts platform fare at those high mileages?
the way i see it, in most cases, cars that are treated poor dont make it to 100k, and by then all of the problems present from the factory have been addressed, so its generally smooth sailing until you get up towards 200k where things start dying from wear.
whereas something like a jag begin to fall to pieces unless you keep on top of it all the time.

is this true for the cts as well? or do problems really start to mount up then?
this is assuming i keep up with regular oil changes (not dropping below 30% oil) and that the previous owner did so as well.
 
#24 ·
I own a 2010 CTS wagon. I love this car. I've always kept up with regular maintenance. I have just over 100,000 miles and hope I can keep it another 10 years. Right now it's in the shop. It needed new brakes, transmission fluid flushed, and a new air filter. All of that I consider maintanence. It also needed a new radiator hose and window washer tube replacement. Those were age related. Everything else is great. All I've needed is a new rotor, and maintenance.
 
#3 ·
There should be plenty of people. The 100k mile topic was covered in a thread not too long ago. But it sounds like you're more concerned with the 200k mile mark.

I don't think 100k miles is anything on modern cars as long as they are maintained. Here is our arsenol, all cars bought new and routine maintenance preformed

2004 CTS 3.6. 155k miles.
2004 SRX v8. 160k-miles - totalled 1 year ago in accident.
2006 Lincoln mark Lt - 170k miles
2007 BMW x3 190k miles.
2012 CTS 3.6 awd 32k miles

All cars are still beasts and show no signs of dying anytime soon. But yeah, belts were replaced, coolant flushed, fluids changed, motor mounts replaced, a pullet on one, plenty of brakes and tires. Shocks and struts. Batteries

But everyone knows that those parts only have a certain life and need to be replaced as necessary without bitching about it.

I see all these cars lasting to 250k+
 
#4 ·
There should be plenty of people. The 100k mile topic was covered in a thread not too long ago. But it sounds like you're more concerned with the 200k mile mark.
i just looked that up actually. a bit vague and didn't really answer my question since maybe two people there had a cts over the 100k mark
and easy solution is to get a 2010 with 100k miles. it'll be 18 grand but it'll be unkillable for many years.

in all honesty though i'd rather spend 13 grand on a 110-120k mile car and make sure it has service records + passes a prepurchase inspection
 
#7 ·
I have a 2008 CTS 3.6 non DI with 132,000 miles I bought last year. I had to put air in the left rear tire... Oh, and a SMALL coolant leak I can't find, so I can't say I have had to fix it yet. That has been it. I have been following the maintenance schedules and kept the fluids full and it seems to be happy. I like buying cars that are 3-4 years old with high miles at greatly reduced prices and getting a repair warranty program to pay for the big ticket repairs. I intend to drive this CTS for 2 or 3 more years. I may replace it a 2012 or 2013 CTS that would be in the $12,000 price range like my 2008 was.

On another note, I did add blue tooth, and a garage door opener and replaced the Windshield washer Fluid Heater that GM had taken out when it was owned by by the previous owner. To that end, this forum has been an invaluable source of information and inspiration.... Good luck on your choice.
 
#8 ·
2008 Cts rwd direct injection. Will hit 100,000 miles this week.
Things to look for:
Screen/Nav issues. Not going up/down...not working at all
If the wheels are aftermarket...dont do it. Stock is 17 and i went to 20's caused all kinds of suspension issues.
Rain water leaking back right of sunroof? in heavy rain, water comes in and puddles in my passenger side backseat foot well.
Working headlight bulbs.
timing chain issues.
Blocked ac lines causing water under glovebox.

These are all the issues i have had in my last 3 years of ownership.

The car itself runs great. Never had any really bad issues with car, other than timing chain...but was covered by warranty.
 
#9 ·
Hey Joe

My 08 AWD has 132,000 on it. This is a tough call because there are so many variables. At best you are rolling dice. If the car has some documented history that's a wonderful thing. I learned the hard way with Carfax I will never trust them again; long story. Things that are huge are oil usage. If you can test drive it for two weeks, see how much oil you are using, if its more than a half quart forget it. Make sure the timing chain has been changed and hopefully not long ago. Suspension issues, vibrations, road noise, pulling and tire shake. Leaks and dampness, like sunroof and trunk that are well documented for being a nightmare. Do your homework and best of luck.
 
#14 ·
Assuming you finance a car: spending more up front for low miles (warranty) translates into a known monthly expense which can be worked into a budget. The alternative is less $ but a major repair is unpredictable and unwelcome.
An additional $100 a month is easier to take than 2 out of the blue $1500 repair invoices . JMO
 
#15 ·
meh, i'm not quite so paralyzed about out of the blue big ticket repairs. if i was i'd just get a honda.
from what i've been seeing, as long as the proper maintenance was done and the oil was kept above 30% most of the time, there isn't much to go wrong on a 08 cts....in terms of the drivetrain at least.

and if i wanted to spend more, i'd spring another 4 grand for a 2010 CTS wagon at about 100k miles. the '10 cts' were noticeably sturdier...plus its a #swagon.
 
#18 ·
actually i called a local caddy dealer asking if they could run a vin to see if it was serviced
apparently he claimed that he can't track that information once the car is out of warranty, or at least he could only tell me what stuff was done BEFORE the warranty ran out, even if the car was still serviced at a dealership after that point
 
#19 ·
I ust picked up a nice 2009 win 123,000 so I will keep you posted. My mechanic had a look at it before buying it and gave it a green light. It needs brakes and a full tune up and tranny flush, but other than that, it was good to go. At 11K, I think it was a good buy. It's mostly a base RWD, but my wife is into sunroof's and how could she pass on that ultraview sunroof! I expect that with normal maintenance that it will see 250K.
 
#21 ·
It was a 2nd owner private seller. My wife found it on a back road sitting in a yard for sale. The more I research, it was a steel at 11K. I can find anything close under 17K. I picked it up today and dropped it off at my mechanic for brakes, tranny flush, full tuneup and some winter tires. It will be snowing soon here in Michigan. It has the direct inj V6, sunroof, and 6 speed auto upgrades, but no NAV or bluetooth. I plan on swapping out the onstar with a bluetooth capable one as soonas I can figure out what PN's to get. I'm actually thinking of just driving for the winter then selling it and looking for an AWD with the full NAV, but time will tell.

Did you have a CTS yet? This is my first and the little I drove it today, I like it! :)
 
#26 ·
Common themes I have seen over the years.
plugged sunroof drains causing flooding in car. Easy to fix
Broken transfer case shafts on all wheel drive models. avoidable by purchasing rear only drive.
early model timing belt failure due to oil starvation caused by a design flaw that has since been corrected but you need to check if the work has been done.
I personally just replaced the water pump but I don’t know if it’s a common problem I’m at about 95k miles.
I have the 2011 performance model that is rear drive only and no sunroof so that side steps some of the big issues. So far it has been solid.
I really haven’t had any issues with electronics.
there are many models and options so do your research and have fun. It’s been a great car.
 
#28 ·
Bought my 2010 Premium Wagon in 2012 with 30k miles. I've put 105k miles on it. Its had a tough life, never been garaged and was driven by my wife and daughter. Always changed my own oil and kept up on maintenance. Recently changed every fluid in it.

Had these issues:
*Timing chains - $2500 fix to have it done (preventative measure)
*Alternator - $300 (had to do it twice)
*Catalytic converter - $150 (had to do one)
*Finicky door latches and handles - $100 each, had to replace multiple
*Pano Roof drains leak onto headliner (happened once)
*Nav screen didnt like to pop up (replaced)
*Cold AC for driver but warm for passenger - (cleaned condenser and changed cabin filter fixed it)
*Rear wheel bearing
*3 batteries replaced

Current issues:
*Tail light separation
*Occasional slow starter/startup
*Overall finicky electronics, I'll get an intermittent idiot light upon startup. I think it has something to do with the slow start issue.

Overall I love the car and would hope to keep it indefinitely. Do I consider it super reliable? Borderline. Do I care? NO 😁
 
#31 ·
@TheFlash may just have your answer for that...
 
#32 ·
There is another link with lots of information that might be useful.


Here is my repair history. Fortunately I have a GM extended warranty so haven't paid a dime for any of these repairs.

Year One 2013 (0 - 14500 miles) - was owned by someone else

Year Two 2014 (14500 - 29000 miles)

1. Onstar had to be replaced
2. Heated seat button jammed, console was replaced
3. Driver seat frame had to be tightened, then eventually replaced
4. Front driver door hinges replaced, was making noises when opening and closing door

Year Three 2015 (29000 - 40000 miles)

1. Front left windshield wiper fluid spray leaking
2. Front right headlight replaced because water leaking in
3. Power steering gear, power steering inlet, outlet hose, seals and spacers replaced as makes cracking noise when turning wheel and fluid leaking
4. Front shocks, rack and pinion, sway bar bushing, upper control arm and bracket, lower arm control and brackets, sway bar links and bushings replaced as car was making grinding noises from the front

Year Four 2016 (40000 - 55000 miles)

1. SIR coil replaced
2. Driver airbag sensor had to be reprogrammed
3. Driver seat tensioner and anchor plate replaced

Year Five 2017 (55000 - 70000 miles)

1. Nothing

Year Six 2018 (70000 - 85000 miles)

1. Windshield wiper fluid reservoir cracked and replaced
2. Evaporative emission canister purge solenoid replaced

Year Seven 2019 (85000 - 95000 miles)

1. Water pump and thermostat replaced

Year Eight 2020 (95000 - 99000 miles as of today)

1. Front passenger seat motor replaced

Known issues (stuff that periodically shows up but not constant enough to get the warranty to fix it)

1. Backup camera will periodically not work, sometimes it is after rain, other times it is after opening the trunk a lot
2. Windows auto up and down sometimes doesn't work
3. AC button lights flicker on and off sometimes
4. Clicker noise goes off sometimes (turn blinker works but that clicking noise sometimes doesn't come out)
5. Lug nuts suck, will eventually strip because its a cap. Recommend changing to full solid metal ones asap (like Gorilla). I waited until they stripped and it was a pain trying to get them out.
6. Engine makes a soft grinding noise when accelerating sometimes, was told by tech in a test drive that it is the sound of the car computer ...
7. When weather is colder, if you crank the wheel all the way to one side and back up, there is some sliding and shuddering cracking noise from the suspension
8. One wheel doesn't seal perfectly anymore, loses air a little faster than the others. Not drastic, just have to go in every month to fill tires. If it was at same pace as other tires could probably wait two months.

So it's definitely not been a completely reliable, repair free car, but I also have not paid anything to fix and had a chance to drive almost every Cadillac vehicle as a loaner (ATS, CTS, XT4, XT5, Escalade). The only ones I haven't gotten was any V, XTS, and XT6.
 
#38 ·
I find that it's the 100,000 mile (or 160,000 km) mark where the expenses start coming on most cars - gaskets, bushings, seals and bearings. They're not huge expenses in the scheme of things but you do have to stay on top of them if you want a good ride for a few more years or your your choices are between bailing and "driving it into the ground".

I've been maintaining my CTS but I suspect that I will be into something else either in '21 or '22. It's still a great car and there's very little out there that I would jones for right now so I will continue to ride it - but I know that means some attention to its health.
 
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