2008-2013 Cadillac CTS General Discussion Discussion, Best Aftermarket HID Kit in Cadillac CTS Second Generation Forum - 2008-2013; The tech at my local mod shop is after me to install aftermarket HID headlights. What is the best kit ...
Automobile(s): 2013 CTS 3.6 V6 RWD Performance Sedan
Best Aftermarket HID Kit
The tech at my local mod shop is after me to install aftermarket HID headlights. What is the best kit for the job? Will there be a heat problem causing damage to the headlight lenses? Will there be a problem when flashing to pass? Thanks.
Ddmtuning.com offers decent kits for cheap. I'm running 55w 12000k in my highs and lows. Heat is no problem for me and the brights take about 15 sec to get bright. Other than that they are great. Attachment 98572Attachment 98573
I have an o-nex hid kit the real one not the counterfeit brand had them for 4 years 2 n my silverado and a lil bit past 2 n my cts not a problem at all I heard of 55w ballast melting lights I have 35watts running 6k perfect all year around
Ok.... I've been doing alot of reading and researching for some FOG LIGHT HID kits. I found some interesting info, and also came up with a few additional questions. Hopefully I can contribute something to this forum. So here we go.
-35W and 55W
*The 55W ballast WILL wash the color out of the bulbs. Explination: Colors will seem more WHITE. A 4300K 35W set up will look the same as a 4000K 55W setup. A 5000K 35W swtup will look the same as a 5500K 55W setup. *NOTE* This is for WELL BUILT ballasts. Meaning the ballast actually puts out 35W or 55W. Quality does have it's benefits!!!
Slim Ballasts = Digital Input Ballast / Regular Ballast = Analog Ballast
*As technology progressed the digital ballst is preferred. Not saying that analog is bad by any means. A well constructed analog ballast is better than a crappy digital ballast.
Slim Ballast(Digital)- All connectors/feed throughs are SEALED, this stops water, dirt, grime, etc from causing issues with connections over time.
Regualr Ballast(Analog)- All connectors/feed throughs are RESISTANT, this resists water, but is not as good as sealed. A few simple thing can help this, WD-40 (Prevents and removes water, is electrically friendly, prevents corrosion.) Electrical grease (Same as WD-40, just stickier, I prefer WD-40 as it does not hold dirt,grime, etc.)
Slim Ballast - Slightly faster to Fire, also has built in EMI filters. This prevents static from interfering with control of the BULB Burn and your car radio etc. Produces a bit less heat=slight more efficient. Has better control of the burn rate/burn temperature of the bulb which extends the bulb life and prevents color changes of the bulb as bulb life progresses.
Regular Ballast- Slightly slower to Fire, *NOTE* a well built analog ballast will have EMI filters built in. Produces a bit more heat=slightly less efficient.
*The most simplified value to look at is initial power on Amperage draw and static state Amperage draw. A well built Analog Ballast should draw very similar to a Digital Ballast.
There are alot of variances in bulbs, this is mainly due to the inconsistencies of the SALT (What makes the light when hit with current) inside of the bulb. Certain bulbs have more consistent SALTs and colors. Top brands (Phillips, Hella, PIAA) also read as MOST $$$. The standard color match to the HIDs on the CTS seems to be 4300K-5000K. Yes I know some ppl will say no, blah blah blah. On a good bulb ( Phillips, Hella, PIAA, etc) 4300K-5000K is going to match what you have on the CTS with HIDs.
-From my research, any manufacturer that uses Laser Corrected/Aligned Phillips Glass also seems to run a quality SALT for the inner bulb. This will have quality and duplicatable colors and light output. Also this will mean longer bulb life and constant color throughout bulb life. This is important if a bulb fails/crakcs/breaks/etc. and you replace 1 of them... they will still match in color and light output.
-The top quality bulb (read most $$$) seems to be German Phillips Bulbs based H11 ( P/N 85122 or 85122+ ). Roughly $65 per bulb.
-Most quality bulbs are rated to 60W of power or more. The ballast determines the wattage output that the bulb recieves.
-55W ballasts makes the bulb put out more heat. This may melt the bulb housing in some areas in some conditions. Such as, 55w ballast (a quality ballast that actually puts out 55W), in Savannah GA in summer (100 + degrees) sitting in traffic. I'm betting it's going to melt. On all quality equipment I've noted warnings about 55W ballasts/bulbs in small (fog light) housings may melt due to heat.
I have not reviewed every kit out there. I simply started looking for quality components. Quality manufacturers give you MORE information about there components, this is for a reason. The devil is in the details! What cheap systems don't show you is mostly what they don't want you to see. This is where the cost difference comes from. Please do not get offended about your set-up. MANY MANY MANY ppl are surely running ebay kits, pieced together kits, etc with no issues. I've very happy you are happy. But this is simply just informatin about quality and performance over a lifetime of system use.
I will be glad to post conversion kits that I've found that use quality components. If anyone would like. I'd be glad to look over the data of a kit anyone suggests if they would like. I hope this info is helpful to some people. And by all means please add any additonal data that you find.