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The steering saga continues

40K views 106 replies 30 participants last post by  Momma up 
#1 ·
I'm going to try to keep from ranting as I'm hoping to get some advice from anyone who has had these issues before, but I'm about at my wit's end. As most of you who have read my posts over the past 7 or so months know, I've had steering issues with mine that cannot seem to be resolved. To sum them up, the first is a "skipping/binding/shudder/wheel-hop, etc." feeling whenever making slow speed turns. It's almost as if the steering is disconnected for a moment. A prime example is driving through a parking lot such as the one at your local mall, or going around a cul-de-sac such as in your neighborhood, or ever backing out of my driveway, then cutting the wheel to move forward down the road. The feeling can be felt both through the wheel and the shift lever. Additionally, if I am backing up at a slow speeds on a slight incline and cutting the feel, I also get this. Sometimes it almost feels like the trans is slipping. So, that is issue one. I've been told by the dealer that it is (a.) normal for AWD,(b.) unable to duplicate, (c.) steering gear replaced, (d.) rear diff fluid replaced per TSB, and (e.) the traction control is kicking in because one wheel is turning at a different speed when I'm making sharp turns and this is what I'm feeling. The SECOND issue I have is when making sharp turns, again a cul-de-sac is the most common place it does this. When making a sharp turn, almost to a lock, there is a crunching or rubbing noise that comes directly from the front end, pretty much directly in front of me. To make a long story short, after my last failed attempt to get the issues resolved, I called the dealer back as they asked me to let them know if I could not mark completely satisfied on the survey. When I brought it back in, the service manager went for a drive with me and I was able to duplicate the noise with him. They replaced the right front lower control arm, said the old one was rusty and the bushing was worn. So....today the car is ready and I pick it up this afternoon. Tonight I'm out and I decide to try the sharp curve where I was able to duplicate the noise with the service manager and guess what, it still does it! Nothing has changed. Oh, and I turned the traction control off to see if this would cure the other issue as well. Which of course it did not. I really appreciate the service manager taking a ride with me and the staff at the dealer has been very helpful in trying to get this resolved, but I'm not sure where to go with this now. I really want these issues fixed. I feel like I have to provide a detailed explanation of the issues each time I take it in(the service advisor remarked I always bring a very detailed note) and I don't know what else to tell them to get these issues fixed. To those of you with AWD CTSs, do your cars exhibit the same feeling mine does in slow speed turns? Any other tips or "symptoms" I can tell them? Sorry for the long post, I'm just really frustrated.
 
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#2 ·
I have a 2012 AWD Coupe and my car doesn't exhibit any of those symptoms.

To go further, my son was recently practicing parallel parking with my car which resulted in many situations with the wheel at full lock while going forward and reverse, and no noise or clunking.....yet.

I say YET, because my car only has 3,600 miles on it.
 
#6 ·
That shudder sensation sounds like the differential is not releasing the slower inner tire during the turn. I owned a couple of vehicles over the years that required a special gear lube and additive and without it the vehicle exhibited those same sensations. That's a tough one given the fact the dealer has changed many items that could cause that problem. Sometimes it's necessary to go back over what was done and make sure it was done correctly. I think a second opinion from a different dealer may be in order. My experience is, dealers are only as good as "the guy with the tools in his hand". Service managers simply take the problem to the tech. I feel they are great at selling you something you don't need like a "brake line flush" what a f...... joke that is. But they sell these jobs to people that don't know any better. You need a "super tech" that really knows his shit. I guarantee when you find this person your problem will be solved. I would go to a couple of auto parts stores and "talk it up" . They will send you to the really good techs, possibly someone who started there own business. Best of luck

Joe
 
#7 ·
Thanks for that info Joe! One question, do you think the front diff needs it's fluid changed. There was a TSB about changing the fluid in the rear axle, but with mine being AWD, I'm wondering if the front should be done too. The TSB just mentions the rear. I plan to call the dealer tomorrow and set up yet another appointment. I'd love to try a different dealer, but they are the only Cadillac dealer in town. I'm less than 2K from my bumper to bumper expiring and I have a trip coming up next weekend that will put another 1K on the car. I'm almost tempted to drive my old car and save the miles on my warranty until I get these issues fixed!
 
#8 ·
ctsfan2009, I'm extremely sorry to read that your steering concerns have continued. I understand how you feel; multiple trips (and multiple concern explanations!) to the dealership can be very inconvenient. I'm glad that you're considering going back to your dealership after consulting with the community, and please don't hesitate to send me a private message anytime if you'd like me to investigate further.

Katie
Cadillac Customer Service
 
#10 ·
>>>I have the same low speed shudder on my new 2012 RWD Performance sedan. It happens when parking or turning at very low speeds. It almost feels like the serpentine belt slips. I'll see what the dealer says when I take it in for some warranty work. <<<

Yes! That's another way you could describe my issue. Also does it when backing up at low speeds and cutting the wheel slightly. Hopefully your dealer won't tell you it's normal and that it's the Traction control kicking in(when the brakes aren't even being applied).
 
#12 ·
CTSfan, I have a 2011 and have all the same issues, skipping or hopping in the rear when applying a little extra gas when starting from a stop and accelerating and turning. Next clunking in the front end when backing up
and turning the wheel. It's a joke. I get a tech bullitan handed to me saying it's normal. I have the 19" summer pkg with polished wheels, continenal tires. But I've decided that there is nothing to do that will fit it. Cadillac just doesn't care about their customers. PERIOD. And I'm a customer with TWO CADDYs a 2012 SRX and my 2011 CTS coupe. They just don't care. I traded a MB for this aggrevation. Big mistake. Lets see if Cadillac Customer Care reads this and contacts me. See if they care.
 
#13 ·
rtrocchia, is yours RWD or AWD? I did go back to the dealer and they have ordered me a lower control arm for the left side(right side was replaced on the last visit). The service manager rode with me again and he is condident that is what is causing the crunching or metallic "clank" that can be heard in the front end when making sharp turns(second issue I listed). We'll see. I will give them credit, the dealer staff really seems to be trying to get this fixed and have expressed that to me. I just wonder if their techs are going to be able to do it based on past experience. Hate to hear of your problems, hopefully you can get them resolved soon and enjoy your car.
 
#14 ·
Mine is a 2011 Premium bought in large Cadillac dealer in central NJ and its RWD. Even bought extended warranty to 100K miles. Summer tire pkg, Nav, the whole 9 yards. ALWAYS a Clank when backing up and cutting the wheel. So scared the heck out of me more than once. Dealer gave up after two visits and stapled a technical notice to my service order that this clank was a condition of the car
with the summer pkg and 19" wheels. I took the tech out in it, they felt it, heard it, said it was not normal and service mgr said it was not something fixable. Still does it all the time, feels like something is breaking every time it happens. The back end tires jump when making a turn anything over 10 mph. I was told it's normal for car that's light in the rear like the CTS coupe by the tech. I want Cadillac Customer Service to get involved. They haven't so far. Are you listening Cadillac Customer Service? AGAIN ARE YOU LISTENING CADILLAC CUSTOMER SERVICE????
 
#16 ·
Rtrocchia, I'm saddened to hear you're experiencing this also. I apologize for not replying sooner, but I was away for the long holiday weekend and unfortunately only became aware of your recent posts when I got back to the office today. If you don't mind, would you please email me (Katie_Lucille@gmepexpert.com) with your name, VIN, mileage, and dealership information? That would help me greatly while I research your concern.

Looking forward to working with you,

Katie
Cadillac Customer Service
 
#20 ·
After the dealer told me it was the traction control causing the "shudder/binding/skippping/wheel hop" feeling, I turned it off and did a sharp turn and it still did it. I know what traction control feels like when it engages and this feeling is not it. I'm planning to take the car to another dealer this week. The next closest one is 35 miles away from me, but if they can fix the issue, it will be worth it. I've got just under 300 miles until my bumper-to-bumper is up so time is not on my side with this issue. BTW, the left side control arm was replaced last week and the metallic clank when making a sharp turn is still there! Sadly, I'm not surprised. Honestly, if the shudder feeling can be fixed, I'll live with the clank as it only does it in very tight turns.
 
#21 ·
Update! Took the car to another dealer today to try once again to get the steering shudder resolved. I received a call from them in the afternoon telling me it was ready. I was in shock as I didn't expect the repair to be that quick. When I asked what work was done, they tell me they changed the rear differential fluid per a service bulletin. Puzzled I asked if that was really the problem as it was done(or at least the paperwork says it was) just several weeks ago at the other dealer and the guy says yeah, it's not got the shudder now. I had a glimmer of hope as I thought that maybe this problem had finally been banished. Sadly, after getting the car and driving back to my office and making a sharp, slow speed turn in the parking lot, I realize that nothing is fixed. Same shudder feeling along with a low rumble or growl in the front end. So...now I'm back to sqaure one. And since the round trip to the dealer I tried today is about 70 miles for me, I have less than 100 miles on my bumper to bumper left. Needless to say, I'm really really PO'ed right now. So now I've had the rear diff fluid changed twice, the steering gear replaced last December, and both front control arms replaced and my problems are still not fixed. Does nobody know how to work on these cars? Hell, if they'd give me access to a service bay and all of the necessary tools, parts, and shop manual, I'd give up a day and attempt to fix it myself! I think at this point I'm just going to sell this car as quickly as possible. What was my dream car has turned into a service nightmare I'm afraid.
 
#22 · (Edited)
Get a reference number from GM to cover your butt, call today explain to them and let them look at the records and extend your warranty on that particular problem use that number at every visit to the dealer and try different dealers you need a paper trail.Just in case further measures are needed they will get in contact with the dealers and send a rep out to drive the vehicle.Try 1-800-458-8006.After all of the mechanical things have been replaced I'm starting to think it is computer related they are just waiting for that warranty to expire get that number.I had mine in for a/c issue they said since it was working they would not be able to fix it,I told them you are the pro's something makes that operate whatever it is replace it seemed pretty logical to me.
 
#23 ·
Okay, so after the second diff fluid change at the "other" Cadillac dealer failed to fix the problem, I contacted the one I had been working with previously and set up another appointment. Took it in last week and a technician rode around with me while I got the car to duplicate my concern. He said he would have to research it a bit. After not hearing from the dealer for a couple of days, I actually thought it was a good sign as they must have found something. Got a call Tuesday that it was done. The repair? The rear diff limited slip clutch plates were replaced. Now, considering the noise appears to come from the front of the vehcile, I was skeptical, but they assured me this should fix it. I was out of town for work so I just got back today and drove it. Problem is still there! This is unbelievable! I have now had the car in 5 times to 2 different dealers for the shudder feel and low growl when making slow turns and with all of the parts replaced, this is still not fixed. I guess I'm going to get Cadillac customer service on the horn and get a case opened. I've got about 15 miles on my bumper to bumper left.
 
#24 ·
I have 08 CTS RWD, 3.6 engine, Premium Luxury Collection with 18" All Season Tire Performance Package. About a year ago I took it to my Dealer for a hissing sound when turning the steering wheel in a quiet parking lot and I was told that was normal on CTC; now I’m experiencing Steering Wheel shudder/vibration when I turn the wheel while the car is not moving or at very low speeds, forward or reverse, but no clicking sound. It feels like the serpentine belt slips.
In a couple of weeks I’ll need oil change and I’ll address the steering wheel vibration problem to my dealer; hopefully they'll fix it because my 4 years bumper to bumper warranty ends August 20, 2012.
 
#26 ·
The only time I've experienced anything like what's described was on a differnt car when the power steering pump was going out. At low engine RPM, the pump no long was able to deliver the fluid pressure to operate the power steering continuously and the result was a pulsing felt in the wheel.

Do either of your cars exibit the issue with the trans in N or P? If not, it may be an issue with the pump. That would only change if the idle speed is slightly higher when not in D. Maybe GM has dialed the pump pressure back to a dead minimum to reduce parasitic losses and a slight reduction in idle speed is causing low speed issues? Just guessing.
 
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