Great write-up, Atlanta. Thanks for doing that. I noticed you also had a couple bottles of 75W90 gear lube on the work bench too. Did you change the diff gear lube also? What size and type of wrench socket did you use for the drain and fill plugs?

 

Hey Bandit, I'm doing a 2nd write up on my Diff fluid change...I should have that along with all the tools over the weekend posted. Def recommend doing this at the same time as your Transmission fluid change along with the transfer case fluid change.

 

Thanks Atlanta. Looking forward to it. Agree with you on the fluid(s) change out. I usually do the oil, transmission, diff, radiator, brake & power steering fluids every 30K miles. Cheap insurance and good PM.

 

Thanks for the write up.

On a side note:
It's almost March.......why can we see ur Christmas lawn decorations??? :gg:

 

Appreciate this good writeup. I have put in in my Knowledgebase.

 

Ha Ha...good eye "sfv41901" I celebrate year round, Griswold style.

FYI your CTS-V bumper (s) swap has inspired me to do the same, I am going for the OEM stuff instead of the integreated easy kit. I am scoping for used (already painted black) bumpers on ebay and other places. Great write up on yours, I have it saved on my favorites...I might PM you if I run into any snags.

 

Ha Ha...good eye "sfv41901" I celebrate year round, Griswold style.

FYI your CTS-V bumper (s) swap has inspired me to do the same, I am going for the OEM stuff instead of the integreated easy kit. I am scoping for used (already painted black) bumpers on ebay and other places. Great write up on yours, I have it saved on my favorites...I might PM you if I run into any snags.

Thx. I'll help anyway I can :

 

Guys please read the owners manual that requires our cars to use Dexron VI fluids in the transmission. If you research the Royal Purple that you are using you will find that it is not recommended for the CTS required application.

http://royalpurpleconsumer.com/product-categories/automotive/#!max-atf-automatic-transmission-fluid
hit the read more button to read the specs. I would suggest using the Mobil1 fluids instead for this application. The Differential fluid by Royal Purple is fine for the CTS.

PLEASE NOTE:

Max ATF is NOT recommended for the following applications: Allison TES-389, DEXRON® VI, Ford Type F and MERCON® SP & LV, Honda DW-1, Hyundai SP-IV and NWS-9638, Kia SP-IV, JWS 3324, MAN 339 Z3, Mercedes Benz 236.8, 236.12, 236.14 & 236.15, Mitsubishi SP-IV and ATF J2, Nissan Matic-S, Saab 93-165-147, Shell M-1375.4 (ZF 6-Speed AT), Toyota WS (JWS 3324) and ZF TE-ML 14C. Max ATF is not recommended for use in any CVT or DCT applications.

Dexron® is a registered trademark of General Motors Corporation.
Mercon® is a registered trademark of Ford Motor Company.

Please consult Royal Purple’s Technical Department at rpautotech@royalpurple.com to determine which product is right for you.

 

The engine should be running and transmission at park when adding the fluid. The fluid temperature must be at the correct range.
The procedure in this thread will leave the transmission under filled.

The correct procedure is similar to that of Camaro and Corvette, for which there are accurate (and not so accurate) DYI threads around.

 

....
I opted not to do this as my car is only at about 60,000 miles. I would recommend doing this, along with dropping the pan and a thorough cleaning with a new gasket at around 100,000 miles.

There isn't really a practical way to do a transmission fluid change on the 6L50 & 6L45 without dropping the pan.
Since there isn't really a drain plug then it necessitates the removal of the pan and changing the filter (while you're there) to really remove all ATF in the pan.

Materials Tools used:

~Oil/Fluid Hand Pump
~4.5 Quarts of Royal Purple Max ATF (Dexron VI)

I'm sorry but that number is not correct either. This transmission pan holds 6.7 quarts of ATF and not 4.5 Quarts!
The reason why you observed 4.5 Quarts is because:

A) You used the fluid check level plug as a drain plug
B) The conditions for doing a fluid change on this car were not met.


Fluid check and fill conditions are as follows:

1- Engine must be running
2- ATF temperature must be in between 30c and 50c
3- Shifter should be cycled P through D and back to P (Must leave at P)
4- Vehicle must be level when checking the fluid level (through the fluid check plug) and when filling
5- The fluid check plug can NOT be used as a drain plug however it can be used as an alternative fill plug with proper hose adapters which most people won't have that's why there is a fill plug.
6- Once the engine is turned off the pan should be removed, both pan and mating surface on trans need to be cleaned. Gasket needs to be changed, filter changed, pan replaced and bolted to torque spec.
7- Then the fluid check level plug is removed, then the fluid fill plug is removed, fluid is then added till it starts to bleed from the fluid check level plug hole then the engine can be started
8- Shifter is then cycled P through D and back to P while holding the brake pedal and engine is running
9- Fluid is added again through the fill plug till it bleeds from the fluid check level plug hole again
10- Once the ATF is filled to the proper level, while the engine is running, the shifter is in P and the car is level only then is the filling process complete. That's the only way to tell for sure, there will be slight variance from car to car. Just like filling a car with oil, the dipstick is the only %100 way to tell the level is right. And just like checking your engine oil level, the car must be level too.
11- Once the fluid level check plug and fill plug are fastened the engine can be turned off and the job is finished.


Caution turning the engine off before fastening both the fill and the fluid check plugs will result in loss and spillage of ATF to the outside of the transmission.


OP I understand you were trying to help, but when assisting other members on the forum with critical maintenance it's best to be sure of one's information otherwise a member could damage their CTS by under-filling or over filling their trans with ATF.

How do you fill the transmission fluid on a 2009 cadillac cts?
Make sure you use Dexron VI. There is a fill tube plug procedure and one for the check plug. The check plug is used to check the fluid level. The vehicle needs to be at operating temp and running when the fluid level is checked. The fluid should drip out the plug when full. Auto part stores have fluid siphons that can be used to put oil in cold. If you can estimate how much came out, put back the same and run the vehicle and then check (easier to check on a lift) as the vehicle is level.
Ref from ironmike40544: 2009 cadillac cts: transmission fluid..the trans drainplug..plug. - JustAnswer
http://www.justanswer.com/cadillac/4ektt-2009-cadillac-cts-transmission-fluid-the-trans-drain-plug-plug.html#ixzz286edQ8Bq
If you removed the pan to change the filter, it may make sense to partially fill the pan with oil before installing.
The pan will supposedly hold 4-5 quarts. An additional 1-2 quartswill need to be added… while the car is running.

ZeeVert- I have a nice summary with pictures in Word or PDF, but the attachment limitations make it impossible to attach or link.
The important information according to IronMike:

• The car must be running to check the oil level.
• The "drain" plug is NOT a drain. It is a "CHECK" plug.
• If you open the check plug while NOT running, you will dump a quart or two of oil, that could be difficult to get back in.

Here is a simple picture showing the CHECK plug:
View attachment 100635

 

Some good pics and instructions in these posts from an older thread:

OK... I finally got my car in the air and took some pictures.
I also found this thread for +2008 transmission fluid change.
http://www.cadillacforums.com/forum...dillac-cts-general-discussion/252981-2008-up-cts-transmission-fluid-change.html

Anyway, here are some pictures to help see the way.
There is no drain hole.
There is a check hole and a fill hole.
Only open the check hole when the car is running.

Here are pictures of the check plug... for fun:

In case you think you want to remove the AWD prop shaft, here's what the connections look like.
My leak looks like a front seal.

anyway, now I need to get some Dexron VI oil and figure out how to pump it up there.
I have some copper tubing and rubber hose. I have a pump somewhere.

I managed to squeeze about a quart and a half into my transmission. ....And half a quart on me and the floor.
That seems like a lot. But that's my problem. I'm talking about the 1.5 quarts for the transmission.
The car is still up in the air... cooling off.... remember, you have to top-it off while it while it's running.
I had to hustle that last pump in there.


There's a special plug used in the fill hole.
I could only see it with a small mirror and flashlight.

The plug is a rubber cup with a locking plastic pin in the center.
To unlock the plug, pull the pin up.
The hole is straight, smooth and long (I checked with my mirror).
These pictures are how the plug is positioned in the transmission - up is up.

I couldn't unlock it, or remove, without using a tool with a little bend.
You may want to be prepared to alter a cheap screwdriver.

I found my "pump". It leaks a little.
I bent a piece of copper tubing and and clamped it with a hose clamp.
The bends in the copper tubing are pretty tight and complex to get past the exhaust and prop shaft.
I used a short "extension" of rubber hose to reach the bottom of the quart bottle.
I could suck-up about half a quart per pull.

Here is my contraption hanging from the transmission fill hole.

Let's start at the beginning for the sequence...

1. Raise the car. It must be level. Let's say we use a hoist.
2. Remove the fill plug from the upper passenger side of the transmission.
3. Fill and attach your pump, or prepare whatever method or pump/fill you plan to use.
4. Have a catch/drain pan handy to catch the overflow.
5. Go up the ladder and start the car. Leave it in park.
6. Remove the check plug from the rear of the oil pan, using a 14mm socket/wrench.
7. Some oil will drip out.
8. Start filling with your pump until oil starts to run from the check plug hole.
9. Reinstall the check plug.
10. Before you shut off the car, make sure you reinstalled the check plug. (Really.... don't forget).
11. Shut-off the car.
12. Reinstall the fill plug.
13. Clean-up the mess.

 

This thread was very helpful. I dropped the pan on my 08 today to replace the filter and filled a 7 quart drip pan to the brim. I guess the fluid expands quite a bit because I removed the level check plug before the change while the tranny was cold and only a few drops of fluid came out while the engine was off. Today while the transmission was warmed up I could only add about 4 quarts before fluid started coming out of the check point probably because the tail end was down a little. Since it was posted above that it holds 6.7 qts and I know I drained right at about that amount, I filled it to about 6.5 qts.

Instead of filling it from below, I ran my hose up to the top near the cabin air filter, connected it to a funnel and poured straight down from the top, which makes me wonder about making and installing the missing transmission fluid level dipstick. The real challenge was putting the plug back in without getting fried. Thanks to all for the guidance.

 

This thread was very helpful. I dropped the pan on my 08 today and filled a 7 quart drip pan to the brim. I guess the fluid expands quite a bit because I removed the level check plug before the change while the tranny was cold and only a few drops of fluid came out while the engine was off. Today while the transmission was warmed up I could only add about 4 quarts before fluid started coming out of the check point probably because the tail end was down a little. Since it was posted above that it holds 6.7 qts and I know I drained right at about that amount, I filled it to about 6.5 qts.

Instead of doing this from below, I ran my hose up to the top near cabin air filter, connected it to a funnel and poured straight down from the top. The real challenge was putting the plug back in without getting fried. Thanks to all for the guidance.

I did my transmission fluid change last summer with a hand pump and drained with pan without dropping it. I remember I soaked rags in water repeatedly to cool down the exhaust before I started. I used Pennzoil Platinum full synthetic ATF for the job and the difference in colour between the new and old fluid was significant.

 

I'm not sure why CTSM got so worked up about ATLANTA_CTS4's original instructions. I also put my car on ramps to angle the check plug for draining. You do not have to drop the pan, you just remove less of the the fluid if you do it that way. There's actually close to 9 litres of fluid in the transmission in total which can be confirmed in the owner's manual, so CTSM is wrong stating it holds 6.7 quarts. Dropping the pan still misses almost 2.5 litres still in the torque converter etc. 1 quart = .95 litre

4.5 litres drains out the check plug when the front wheels are on ramps, (I measured it) and you put 4.5 litres back in with a hand pump. Simple, and you don't have to go through all that pan dropping and gasket work.

 

Thks to everyone above..had the unfortunate pleasure of having to do tranny fluid change today and your suggestions were well received and very useful

 

Did you measure how much fluid you drained and refill the same amount or just go with the estimates provided in this thread? The idea that every CTS will drain the same amount of ATF when placed on any ramps on anyone's idea of a level surface doesn't cut it for me although it probably gets you within a quart +/-. The correct way to check the level is with the fluid warm, car level, engine running and trans in park.

 

I measured the amount ...it was close to the 4.5 liters mentioned in the thread...before I drained the fluid, I assumed it had a dip stick to refill...big surprise...I used the suggestions to use a trim tool to remove the refill plug and the copper tubing to refill the fluid and would not have recognized the rubber refill plug without the photos...the thread saved my stupidity and a towing bill to the garage!!!

 

Thanks for the info. I haven't done mine yet. I might drop the pan and change the filter too.

 

Just finished this work on my 2014 ATS (3.6l) with the 6L45 transmission. I have the same transmission in my two (2) E90 BMWs. Configuration there is a bit different as these have a separate fill and drain plug and the fill procedure is through the fill plug and up to temperature with the motor running until it starts to come out. Fill procedure here is through the plug in the bottom (not really a drain pug as not on the bottom). There is also a small standpipe on the inside of the drain pan so the fluid does not drain to the level of the (elevated) plug, but to about an inch above this. I did not fill form the bottom, but filled from the fill plug to the side. Car took the full 6.7 quarts with the engine off form the fill plug (no spill over) although it is true that with the engine off, a significant amount of fluid returns to the pan, so the level check needs to be done at temperature and with the engine running (in park).

Before starting the job, I leveled the car and brought it to temp (30C). With the car running, after cycling through the gears, I then removed the bottom plug and just a few drops of fluid came out As the car continued to warm up, more fluid came out. I turned the car off and fluid began to pour out of the drain hole (as this is no longer in suspension as is the case when the car is running). I then removed the pan and carefully drained all the fluid into the catch pan. Total fluid volume captured was about 6 quarts, so less than a quart remained captured. I cleaned the pan and mating surfaces and changed the filter, gasket, and bolts. Torque is 10n-m to a specific pattern (starting at center/sides and working to front and back). After this I was able to put 7 quarts in the side fill hole without having to run the car to keep in from overflowing. This was nice as the fill procedure is tricky (particularly re-fitting the plug, which on my AWD is obscured by the prop shaft) and not something I wanted to have to do while running. After that, simply bring to temp and with the car running, pull the plug. About a quart should run out as it was slightly overfilled (intentionally - 6 quarts drained and 7 quarts added).

 

This is a quick write up for Transmission Fluid Drain and Fill procedure on 2nd GEN CTS. For you weekend DYI folks that want to give your CTS a quick thank you, this is for you. Keep in mind this particular procedure is not a flush, there will still be about 1/3 of the old fluid left in the tranny. There are some procedures to supplement this where you can add a hose to the transmission cooler supply line, that will flush the old fluid into a bucket. I opted not to do this as my car is only at about 60,000 miles. I would recommend doing this, along with dropping the pan and a thorough cleaning with a new gasket at around 100,000 miles.

Materials Tools used:

~Oil/Fluid Hand Pump
~4.5 Quarts of Royal Purple Max ATF (Dexron VI)
~Oil Drain pan
~1/2" Socket Wrench
~7/8" wrench 3/8" ratchet
~2 Rhino Ramps
~Angled Panel Remover Tool/Flat Head screwdriver
~Telescopic Mirror

Here we Go:

Once you have the vehicle up on the ramps with your parking brake engaged, slide under the vehicle and locate the transmission, between the two exhaust pipes. Find the drain plug and ready your socket wrench to remove the drain plug, make sure you have your drain pain positioned directly under the tranny pan. I would advise wearing latex gloves and have a few shop towels nearby in case it gets messy. Loosen the drain plug with your wrench and then unscrew by hand. Allow all of the fluid to drain completely out, this make take a few minutes. Use this time to clean the drain plug with a paper towel.

The next step is to use a flat head screw driver or in my case I used an angled panel tool to remove the top fill-plug from the side of the transmission. (It's a little challenging to get to to, as it is above one of the shafts leading into the transfer case.) Pop the plug up and remove. Clean the area around the fill hole with a shop towel to make sure no contaminants can fall into the hole when you go back to fill with your pump. Use your telescopic mirror to look around the opening of the hole.

Prepare your 5 quarts of ATF, and affix your pump nozzle and hose to the quart. Position your tube into the fill hole and begin pumping the fluid (remember, we have not put the drain plug back in at this point). Pump about half the quart into the fill hole, allowing it to drain through the pan. At this point put the drain plug back in and tighten all the way. Do not over-tighten.

Now pump the rest of that quart and 4 more. When you get to the half way point of your 4th quart, begin pumping slowly. You do-not want to over fill the transmission, this can cause problems. You want to fill it to the point where the fluid begins to seep out of the opening. At this point remove the fill tube and insert the fill-plug back in to the top of the transmission fill hole.

Clean up your tools and work space. Start the vehicle and shift from park into all of the gears.

That's it! A quick transmission drain and fill keeping your CTS running smooth!

I am working on my transmission now I do see a freeze plug, but there also appears to be a plug in the back of the case it is cylindrical with only 2 milled flat edges so no ratchet. I can get a 7/8 open end wrench on it but it won’t move?

 

Just used your guid to do my 2011 and it worked great. great tips. Thanks.

 

Ok quick question as I've read different things and heard different things in videos. Does the fill plug have to be put in before the engine is turned off? On a post here someone says the turned the engine off and let the exhaust cool down before he put the fill plug back in. Others say you have to put it back in before you turn the engine off or you will loose fluid through it. Would much rather wait until the exhaust cools down to attempt to put it back in but don't want to risk losing fluid either.

 

Yes, put the plug in before you turn the engine off as the trans fluid will drain back into the pan when the pump stops.

 

Thanks, I know the fluid will drain back into the pan but wasn't sure if there would actually be enough fluid in there to come out the top of the pan like that. Has anyone actually seen this happen or is it just as a precaution?

 

This is a quick write up for Transmission Fluid Drain and Fill procedure on 2nd GEN CTS. For you weekend DYI folks that want to give your CTS a quick thank you, this is for you. Keep in mind this particular procedure is not a flush, there will still be about 1/3 of the old fluid left in the tranny. There are some procedures to supplement this where you can add a hose to the transmission cooler supply line, that will flush the old fluid into a bucket. I opted not to do this as my car is only at about 60,000 miles. I would recommend doing this, along with dropping the pan and a thorough cleaning with a new gasket at around 100,000 miles.

Materials Tools used:

~Oil/Fluid Hand Pump
~4.5 Quarts of Royal Purple Max ATF (Dexron VI)
~Oil Drain pan
~1/2" Socket Wrench
~7/8" wrench 3/8" ratchet
~2 Rhino Ramps
~Angled Panel Remover Tool/Flat Head screwdriver
~Telescopic Mirror

Here we Go:

Once you have the vehicle up on the ramps with your parking brake engaged, slide under the vehicle and locate the transmission, between the two exhaust pipes. Find the drain plug and ready your socket wrench to remove the drain plug, make sure you have your drain pain positioned directly under the tranny pan. I would advise wearing latex gloves and have a few shop towels nearby in case it gets messy. Loosen the drain plug with your wrench and then unscrew by hand. Allow all of the fluid to drain completely out, this make take a few minutes. Use this time to clean the drain plug with a paper towel.

The next step is to use a flat head screw driver or in my case I used an angled panel tool to remove the top fill-plug from the side of the transmission. (It's a little challenging to get to to, as it is above one of the shafts leading into the transfer case.) Pop the plug up and remove. Clean the area around the fill hole with a shop towel to make sure no contaminants can fall into the hole when you go back to fill with your pump. Use your telescopic mirror to look around the opening of the hole.

Prepare your 5 quarts of ATF, and affix your pump nozzle and hose to the quart. Position your tube into the fill hole and begin pumping the fluid (remember, we have not put the drain plug back in at this point). Pump about half the quart into the fill hole, allowing it to drain through the pan. At this point put the drain plug back in and tighten all the way. Do not over-tighten.

Now pump the rest of that quart and 4 more. When you get to the half way point of your 4th quart, begin pumping slowly. You do-not want to over fill the transmission, this can cause problems. You want to fill it to the point where the fluid begins to seep out of the opening. At this point remove the fill tube and insert the fill-plug back in to the top of the transmission fill hole.

Clean up your tools and work space. Start the vehicle and shift from park into all of the gears.

That's it! A quick transmission drain and fill keeping your CTS running smooth!

Excellent instructions, just used this to change my transmission fluid 👍🏾

 

Just did this over the weekend, just for reference

You Do Not have to put the Fill Plug thats above the pan back in before you shut off the vehicle. You can shut it off and let the exhaust cool down before putting it back in without losing any fluid.