2008-2013 Cadillac CTS General Discussion Discussion, New Heated Washer Replacement AT-37GM in Cadillac CTS Second Generation Forum - 2008-2013; Ok. Some pictures. First I said the two more rigid hoses were connected by a flexible rubber hose. I just ...
Ok. Some pictures. First I said the two more rigid hoses were connected by a flexible rubber hose. I just pulled one end out and it looked like picture 1.
I took one of the hoses that came from the AT-37 and cut it to length. Attached one end to the AT unit and the other end to the rigid hose and ended up with Picture 2. Just push the hose into the connectors
Did the same thing with the other connector. Basically from the Washer fluid I connected to the bottom of the AT unit and from the top connector in the AT unit I connected to the hose that goes to the windshield nozzles.
Interesting - you appear to have a different setup with regard to hoses than I do in my 08 CTS. I only have the 1 back plastic connector set and hose line as shown in second pic below the silver one.
The one below the silver one was the original one. The silver one is the hose that came with the AT unit. So the black hose below was connected to the one I am holding in my fingers. I pulled the initial black one and connected it to the bottom one on the AT unit per this picture
I just looked again carefully at the picture you posted a while back and I think I understand what they did. Instead of joining your to rigid hoses with a flexible hose, they took the male connector from one of the segments and connected the two rigid hoses together. Now I see what you are dealing with.
Any chance the dealer that did the recall would have the piece they took out so you can use it? In my case, both rigid hose segments ended up with a "male" connectors (shown in picture 1) so the flexible rubber hose I got from AT-37 just plugged right in there making it very easy.
Sorry it took me a while to understand what you have been describing.
Ill take a pic tommorrow and show you my setup. I have everything hooked up. But in your second pic I see 2 female connectors(the ones you squeeze to release). I only had the one set of connectors. I removed both(male and female) and then just connected the AT unit using the barb adapters directly to the rubber sleeve on the ends of each section of small tubing.
GM didnt add any hose as the male/female from the small hose ends connected w/o the need for any extension.
Part of the confusion is also how many hoses were originally used for the washer and heated washer. After the recall, all I have is the small tubing from the water container connected to the other end of the small tubing going to the hood.
With the original setup did water to the windshield, if not heated and using the stalk control, pass thru the heater unit? In some pics and diagrams, it appears that there WAS a regular size rubber hose running under the hood. I see this in your pic above going under the rubber shield along where the hood closes on the body.
I disconnected the hoses and recoupled them and removed the fuse before taking it in for the reecall service. The a**holes at Jim Coleman Cadillac not only cut the hose where I had it coupled and put in the connectors as they would have if I had just brought in with nothing done to it, even though i asked them not to and wrote it on the service order. Then they removed the bracket. After complaining to the service people I was told they didn't have a bracket that fit and now they are trying to order one. So I have the AT unit on my desk with no bracket to install it to in my car. They did give me back the cut hose pieces since I had my own coupler in it. When I pointed out to them that the service bulletin specifically said to not remove the bracket because the wrapped cables were supposed to be secured to it, he said he never read it!!! So now the cables are just flopping around in my engine bay. What a bunch of idiots. If they get a bracket in for me and put it back I will finish installing the AT unit. The pics really help and should be pretty easy either using the AT hose pieces or the oem hose pieces they cut and gave back to me.
I uploaded the picture of my hose setup:
The connection at the top is the hose from the AT unit to the rubber sleeve on the small tubing to the hood. There was a female connector at the end of the tubing that was removed. Barb adapter used to make connection.
The connection below is the hose from the AT unit to the rubber sleeve on the small tubing from the water container. There was a male connector at the end of this tubing that was removed. Barb adapter used to make connection.
After the recall, this tubing was connected together - male/female.
Automobile(s): 2008 CTS 3.6L DI RWD, GMPP new engine 11/2013
Re: New Heated Washer Replacement AT-37GM
Based on my experience and that of others in this thread, I now offer the following suggestions to anyone who plans to install the AlphaTherm AT-37GM but has not yet had the dealer recall service performed.
1. IF preparing your car for the recall service (remove and save for reuse the 60-amp fuse, connect washer fluid "in" and "out" hoses to bypass heater module) BEFORE receiving the AT-37GM replacement unit, THEN use a straight plastic coupler (available from NAPA, other auto parts/hardware stores, etc.) to join the hoses.
2. IF preparing your car for the recall service AFTER receiving the AT-37GM, THEN use one of the AlphaTherm-supplied couplers to join the OEM hoses.
3. After bypassing the OEM heater module, as a precaution, tuck the joined hoses under the fender panel - conveniently out of sight and reach of the dealer svc tech who will eventually perform the OEM heater module removal.
4. Print and give to your dealer svc advisor a copy of "WINDSHIELD WASHER SOLVENT HEATER REMOVAL,"pages 16-21, July 2010 revised Recall Bulletin: http://nhthqnwws111.odi.nhtsa.dot.go...0V240-3383.pdf. Discuss and make sure that your svc advisor understands the preparations for AlphaTherm AT-37GM that you have made (fuse, hoses), and instructs the svc tech to act accordingly. This should be NO problem, as GM wants only to cease its OEM product liability and your dealer wants only to complete required paperwork to collect payment from GM and, hopefully, make you a compensated happy customer.
5. After installing the new AT-37GM heater module into the existing OEM mounting bracket and securing its electrical connections, simply remove the temporary hose coupler and slide loose hose ends onto the heater module. Prime with unheated washer fluid via steering column stalk button. Reinstall 60-amp fuse in underhood fuse block. Good to go. Enjoy your fully restored heated washer fluid system.
Unfortunately, despite doing this, mechanics followed their documented procedure. Fortunately,after talking with AT support, I simply removed the male/female adapters on the ends of the remaing small tubing, I/P and O/P, connected to each other w/o the need for additional hosing. Once the adapters were removed, the AT hoses easily connected to each end of the tubing containing a rubber sleeve, using supplied barb adapters.
If your system looks like the first pic in jhermit post #48 above you will need nothing. All you will need to do is remove the top hose from the washer unit and follow it back until you reach the fender there you will find the hard connector. It consists of a male and female connectors. Use a pair of pliers and squeeze the female side, and pull out the male side by wiggling it while pulling. You will see what I mean when you get there. Then do the same for the lower hose on the washer unit. Once you have removed both hoses you will be left with a male and female so push the male into the female and you have now bypassed the washer unit. KEEP the hoses you just removed for you will need them so that you can put the system back to stock and reconnect to the new washer unit. Remove the fuse and KEEP that too. So that when you get the new unit you will be able to put the fuse and the hoses back in, and the system will be just as it is right now. But do remember to use the windshield washer in normal unheated mode first to get the new unit full of fluid before you use it. You don't want to have the unit heating up with nothing in it. Once you have done that the system is ready to use.
I hope that helps you out.