You are in the second generation forum, Tia. You have a first generation. There are lots of threads about the ATF change but it isn't at all easy.
how do i access the pictures?
I didnt see this mentioned in here,..... what oil are you guys using? Im assuming 5-30 mobil 1 but any particular kind? Are they meant to be run on full synthetic?
Thanks for the info!
Yes, full synthetic Mobil1. I use the 5 quarts from Wally World and add a quart of 10W-40 for my 6th quart.
Since I live in Florida we have the heat for quite a long time, hence the additional quart of 40 weight vs. 30 weight.
On my 2012 CTS AWD you only have to remove the four 10mm bolts to remove the shield and access the drain plug. The plug itself is 15mm and it's on the left (driver's) side. Be sure to stay safe and use jack stands before you crawl under.
Just read through this thread as I'm planning to do the oil change on our 2010 Wagon 3.6L. Thanks everybody for the very helpful information!! To those of you who are using ramps: are you still jacking the car higher than the ramps? (for safety, I assume - or do you let the car stand on the ramps while crawling under??) If you jack it higher, won't the ramps be in the way for putting jack stands behind the front wheels?
I drive my wagon onto a 2 x 6 and then up the ramps. I chock my rear wheel.
So you just need to raise the car 2 inches to get it on the ramps? I have the same ramps and I'm trying to figure out how to drive it up themQuote:
Originally Posted by tinman
I actually use one longer 2x6 and place a shorter one on top of that to drive up on. That way I don't have a huge "bump" to initially drive up on.
I have an 08 also...no shroud underneath. I don't see how you could get to the filter without taking the engine shroud off though...No tools necessary for it so you may have just missed him take it off. I find that a bit more oil pours out when you take the filter out so I would definitely remove it before putting the drain plug back in.
Does anyone know the replacement part number or source of these push pins? I have had my 2008 CTS di for a couple months now and am getting a very noticeable vibration drone recently from about 40mph and up. Crawling under the car I notice the shrouds don't appear to have been put on properly, the one behind the front one overlaps it and several of the push pins are loose, the center of the pin coming down about 1/4"-1/2". I found sources for retainer pins, but not sure which is the right one. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
http://www.westmarine.com/webapp/wcs..._-1?icid=HF3_8 about - about $80.00
Someone else posted that they had problems about the line not getting into the crankcase. I had that same problem as the hard plastic lines it comes with are not flexible enough to navigate a hard corner in the dipstick tube. I picked up some smaller diameter vinyl tubing that was able to navigate the corner and get into the crankcase. The diameter of the line was very small and the extraction took a few hours but at the end I was satisfied that the extractor had done its job.
So it can and does work - things to look out for:
The tubing I picked up is only good to 125 degrees. So if the car is hot the lines may melt. If you can find some higher performance tubing, may not be an issue or you can just do it the first thing in the morning.
The extraction was very slow. It may have been due to the diameter of the tubing that I was using but it took over 5 hours for the vacuum to complete
For oil changes im a bit of a freak. Oil is key to life of engine. I first drive 500 KMs yes just 500 then drain oil and ensure I save first ounce in a small 1oz glass bottle. I put in new oil new filter and slick 50, most important I put a magnet on drain plug if not already magnetized. Then drive 1500 do same and then back to normal manufacturer needs or as I do every 5,000km or each of the 4 seasons of the year which every occurs first. Reason for freak approach is that any metal filings or contaminates in engine from the factory get taken out right away at that 500km point. The glass bottle and sample is to check for metal filings and contaminates. if you see them and there is alot then colour and touch can indicate what is the problem. I also keep it and if theres an issue then write a letter advise of the sample and keep bottle for later litigation if needed. On the second oil change at 1500 keep another sample this should be clean if not then you have a wear problem in engine. If al is good then you got a great start to your engine and it will last a long time. I get 500,000 plus on most of my engines with no problems. I have never had to open one up yet under 500,000. At about the 100,000 interval I do the glass bottle thing for warranty and then after that at each 100,000 just to see what is going on in my engine. If you know what to look for you can identify the part that is wearing out before it fails and causes other issues and wear.
Just my freakis approach to oil but it has served me very well over the decades. No body has ever outlasted my engines. It was always sad to let them go to junk yard with perfect engines no burning oil no noise no problems just rust through.