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How to change your own oil (with pictures)

106K views 65 replies 44 participants last post by  CaddyRum 
#1 · (Edited by Moderator)
~Writeup originally posted by louiefl99

Click here for All Wheel Drive

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In an effort to reduce engine noise Cadillac has added a shroud under the engine and revised the one over the top of the engine. Both of these need to be removed in order to access the filter on top and the drain plug below.

From under the hood, unscrew the oil filler cap and then wiggle the shroud – you will notice something is holding the left side intact. Pull the left side straight up about 2 inches to release. Next slide the top shroud forward until it clears the strut tower cross brace. The picture shows it upside down, the two lugs on the rear are visible at the bottom of the picture as is the conical seat in the upper left for the latch, and the oil filler hole on the right.



At this point you might want to replace the filler cap in case you drop a socket. This should take all of 60 seconds to do.


The bottom shroud is held by three push pins accessed from the front bumper and four screws (two each side) accessed from behind each front tire. The screws are shown in the picture for a visual aid, but they are not captive and will fall when released. Remove all 4 screws using a 10 mm nut driver – the shroud will not drop as there are two plastic clips (the rectangular holes between the two screws) that will hold the weight of the shroud.

Reaching under the front bumper, wiggle the shroud and you will see that there are three push pins holding the shroud as is shown by the arrows on the silver duct tape. Only remove these as there are other push pins for other components. The push pins have two slots, one under the head and one between the pin and the shroud. Rotate the push pin until you can see the one under the head. Using a small flat bladed screwdriver, gently twist the blade until the head pulls away enough to grab it and then pull down. The head will pop out about a half inch (or all the way if you pull hard enough) and then remove the body. These are reusable if you pull the head straight out of the body.





To reassemble, I slid a 12-pack box under the shroud, installed the screws hand tight and then slid in the push pins. I went back and tightened the 4 screws using a nut driver. Removal was about 10 minutes to do this the first time, but the next time I could have all the shrouds removed in less than 5. Putting it back together took 2 minutes. Best part is that you do not have to jack up the car to do this.

Here are a couple pictures with the engine top shroud removed. The picture with the element visible is resting on the housing, the other picture show it fully installed.




If you can change your own oil, removing the shroud isn’t that hard; understanding how to get the push pins apart was my biggest challenge. Good luck!
 
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#49 ·
Yes, full synthetic Mobil1. I use the 5 quarts from Wally World and add a quart of 10W-40 for my 6th quart.

Since I live in Florida we have the heat for quite a long time, hence the additional quart of 40 weight vs. 30 weight.
 
#51 ·
~Writeup originally posted by louiefl99

Click here for All Wheel Drive

--------------------------------------------------------------
In an effort to reduce engine noise Cadillac has added a shroud under the engine and revised the one over the top of the engine. Both of these need to be removed in order to access the filter on top and the drain plug below.

(snip)

If you can change your own oil, removing the shroud isn’t that hard; understanding how to get the push pins apart was my biggest challenge. Good luck!
I just want to show my appriciation for your instructional post. I surely would have been frustrated big time had I not seen it before I did my first oil change. I now keep it printed out in my garage.
 
#53 ·
Just read through this thread as I'm planning to do the oil change on our 2010 Wagon 3.6L. Thanks everybody for the very helpful information!! To those of you who are using ramps: are you still jacking the car higher than the ramps? (for safety, I assume - or do you let the car stand on the ramps while crawling under??) If you jack it higher, won't the ramps be in the way for putting jack stands behind the front wheels?
 
#56 ·
I actually use one longer 2x6 and place a shorter one on top of that to drive up on. That way I don't have a huge "bump" to initially drive up on.
 
#57 ·
I have an 08 also...no shroud underneath. I don't see how you could get to the filter without taking the engine shroud off though...No tools necessary for it so you may have just missed him take it off. I find that a bit more oil pours out when you take the filter out so I would definitely remove it before putting the drain plug back in.
 
#58 ·
Does anyone know the replacement part number or source of these push pins? I have had my 2008 CTS di for a couple months now and am getting a very noticeable vibration drone recently from about 40mph and up. Crawling under the car I notice the shrouds don't appear to have been put on properly, the one behind the front one overlaps it and several of the push pins are loose, the center of the pin coming down about 1/4"-1/2". I found sources for retainer pins, but not sure which is the right one. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

http://www.clipsandfasteners.com/Push_Type_Retainers_At_Clipsandfasteners_com_s/154.htm
 
#60 ·
For oil changes im a bit of a freak. Oil is key to life of engine. I first drive 500 KMs yes just 500 then drain oil and ensure I save first ounce in a small 1oz glass bottle. I put in new oil new filter and slick 50, most important I put a magnet on drain plug if not already magnetized. Then drive 1500 do same and then back to normal manufacturer needs or as I do every 5,000km or each of the 4 seasons of the year which every occurs first. Reason for freak approach is that any metal filings or contaminates in engine from the factory get taken out right away at that 500km point. The glass bottle and sample is to check for metal filings and contaminates. if you see them and there is alot then colour and touch can indicate what is the problem. I also keep it and if theres an issue then write a letter advise of the sample and keep bottle for later litigation if needed. On the second oil change at 1500 keep another sample this should be clean if not then you have a wear problem in engine. If al is good then you got a great start to your engine and it will last a long time. I get 500,000 plus on most of my engines with no problems. I have never had to open one up yet under 500,000. At about the 100,000 interval I do the glass bottle thing for warranty and then after that at each 100,000 just to see what is going on in my engine. If you know what to look for you can identify the part that is wearing out before it fails and causes other issues and wear.
Just my freakis approach to oil but it has served me very well over the decades. No body has ever outlasted my engines. It was always sad to let them go to junk yard with perfect engines no burning oil no noise no problems just rust through.

Rags
 
#64 ·
I changed the oil in my 3.6 DI AWD the other day and the only thing I found odd was the bolts for the bottom cover were very rusty and tight. Whoever was doing the oil changes before I can only assume they weren't taking the cover off completely as the inside of the cover was oil soaked but I found no oil leaks.
 
#65 ·
This is a great tool and makes the job easy and painless, however, any dirt particulate resting on the bottom of the oil pan will remain there. Although, obviously, running the engine to operating temperature prior to changing the oil will suspend the particulates of carbon and other nasties, and it SHOULD be sucked up by this tool, it is my suggestion to do it the labor intensive manner so that there is nothing left to chance.... Just my opinion. (I have been working on automobiles for over 35 years)....
 
#66 ·
So tomorrow I plan to change my oil using Mobil 1 and I plan to install a spring loaded valve from
Quikvalve to replace drain plug. Had one on my Mustang and loved it. Also the valve allows you to attach a
Piece of tubing to help direct the oil in tight places. Hoping this will allow me not to have to remove the
Shroud fully next oil change. I'll post a pic after im done.
 
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