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CTS speaker sizes

41K views 24 replies 12 participants last post by  Long 
#1 ·
Quick question fellas, I have the upgraded 10 speaker Bose surround sound system. I'm considering further upgrading the system but don't know where to find the various speaker sizes or specs. Can someone point me in the right direction? Thanks in advance.
 
#3 ·
Re: CTS Speaker Sizes (Aftermarket Sound System)

First off, thanks gi02sl for the speaker size info. However, I would like to know if anyone has installed aftermarket speakers, amps, or subs in their 08-09 CTS. I attempted to have some Kicker subs and two new amps installed but my installer told me that it can't be done. He explained that the factory Bose amp cannot be removed or replaced because it receives a "special" signal from the head unit, which cannot be received by the aftermarket amp. This is not may area of expertise so I'm probably not using the right terminology. Nonetheless, the point is that I would like to know if anyone has replaced the factory system (except the head unit) and if so, how it was done. I've already purchased most of the equipment so I really hope it can be installed. Thanks in advance for any input.
 
#4 ·
Re: CTS Speaker Sizes (Aftermarket Sound System)

First off, thanks gi02sl for the speaker size info. However, I would like to know if anyone has installed aftermarket speakers, amps, or subs in their 08-09 CTS. I attempted to have some Kicker subs and two new amps but my installer told me that it can't be done. He explained that the factory Bose amp cannot be removed or replaced because it receives a "special" signal from the head unit, which cannot be received by the aftermarket amp. This is not may area of expertise so I'm probably not using the right terminology. However, the point is that I would like to know if anyone has replaced the factory system (not the head unit) and if so, how it was done. Thanks in advance for any input.
I suggest you find a new installer. Find a good custom shop. Stay away from the fools at stores like Best Buy. There is no "special" audio signal. Chances are, the only thing that is special is your installer. All audio signals going to the speakers are just analog signals. You just have to find and splice into the sub output wires from the Bose amp and feed that into your aftermarket amp. I fiberglassed a sub with an Alpine amp into the spare tire well myself without a problem.
 
#5 ·
Thanks for the inout Mbai2. Actually, he did say that the subs and amp could be installed by connecting the aftermarket amp to the Bose amp. However, he stated that the sound would be distorted with that kind of a set up because its "power on power", as opposed to connecting the new amp directly to the head unit. He also said that that set up would only work for the sub amp and not for the amp powering the interior speakers. Not sure if this is true or not but I'll prob go elsewhere for a second opinion.
 
#6 ·
Power on power? He probably meant that feeding a speaker level signal into an amp would cause distortion. This is true only if he wires the amps incorrectly. As long as you feed a speaker level signal into a speaker level (high level) input on the amp, there will be no distortion. Most amps have both line level (low level) and speaker level (high level) inputs. If the amps you have don't have speaker level inputs, you can always get a line level converter or go all out and get something like a Clean Sweep from JL Audio. Clean Sweep will clean up speaker level signals and output them at line level to an amp.

So in the the end, you will still need the Bose amp but all of its outputs will be fed to aftermarket amps which will then power the speakers.
 
#8 ·
As long as the amps have speaker/high level inputs, it will work. I wouldn't call it diminished sound quality. It might sound different than if you were to run it directly from the head unit because the Bose amp does some on-board processing before it outputs the sound to the speakers. It will still sound great though. It will just have the typical Bose EQ processing done to it.

Although it isn't needed, you may consider a JL Audio Clean Sweep or Rockford Fosgate 3Sixty to process and convert the signal coming out of the Bose amp to a low level signal for feeding it into the pre-amp inputs of the aftermarket amp. I'm not sure how this will effect the sound of the built-in Bose DSP options though.
 
#9 · (Edited)
I have 2 Alpine Type-R 12" subs, powered by an Alpine PDX1000.1 amp, all being fed by an MTX ReQ5. I used the speaker level outputs of the bose amp to feed the ReQ5. All other speakers remain stock. My car sounds like a concert hall or club depending on your musical tastes. I did add a ton and a half of dynamat to the trunk area to reduce vibration and increase SPL. You do need a processor or bass restoration unit, as the Bose amp will reduce bass output as the volume knob goes up. I've had no trouble with the ReQ5, and it was about half the price of the JL Cleansweep. I don't see any need to upgrade the stock Bose speakers, because they sound incredible. Also, the front door speakers are a unique size, and would have to be rigged to accept a 6.5" component midrange. Rear deck replacement is also murder, as removal of the rear deck takes approximately two hours. Also, all of the Bose processing (DSP) remains functional if you use the speaker level outputs of the bose amp. If need be, I can post a wiring diagram at the Bose amp, or you can consult the FSM, if you happen to have one.

FYI - I've got a friend who is an installer in New Jersey. Z&R Auto Salon in Middlesex. Rob and Joe did the install with me, and it really isn't that complex, but they are familiar with the car and the bose amp, and prob still have the wiring diagram I made for them. Give them a call at 732-469-4900.
 
#10 ·
Thanks to both of you guys for the info as its been very helpful in my understanding of the issues involved in the sound system upgrade.

ngiardina, do you happen to know the exact size of the front and rear door speakers? The Bose speakers do sound good but I don't think they'll be able to keep up with my subs (I am now planning on going with 2 12" Kicker L7s). I already purchased the JL Cleansweep but its good to know that a sound processor will help solve the problem. Also, what kind of enclosure are you using with your subs? Lastly, a posting of the wiring diagram of the amp would be great.

I'm going to discuss all of this with my installer and see what he says. If not, I very well may be contacting your friend down in Middlesex.

Thanks again for your input.
 
#11 ·
Thanks to both of you guys for the info as its been very helpful in my understanding of the issues involved in the sound system upgrade.

ngiardina, do you happen to know the exact size of the front and rear door speakers? The Bose speakers do sound good but I don't think they'll be able to keep up with my subs (I am now planning on going with 2 12" Kicker L7s). I already purchased the JL Cleansweep but its good to know that a sound processor will help solve the problem. Also, what kind of enclosure are you using with your subs? Lastly, a posting of the wiring diagram of the amp would be great.

I'm going to discuss all of this with my installer and see what he says. If not, I very well may be contacting your friend down in Middlesex.

Thanks again for your input.
Front doors, I believe, are 9". Rear doors are 5.25"

Remember, with the Cleansweep system, you also need to purchase the CL-SSI, as you have to sum the inputs in order to give them over to the CL-441dsp.

As for the stock Bose not keeping up with two Kicker L7's, I'm not so sure about that. Remember that once you add subs, you can reduce the bass setting on the headunit, thereby cleaning up the highs and mids even more, but to each their own.

I use an enclosure that we custom built, but rather simple. It uses the exact interior dimensions specified by Alpine as the recommended enclosure size for the Type-R 12's. My enclosure is made out of 3/4" MDF, and all seams are nailed, glued (using PL400 construction adhesive), and then caulked to eliminate any possibility of leakage. My subs are up against the rear seatbacks, facing rearward.

One last thing to keep in mind. If you are not used to a well-sealed trunk, be ready. I had the exact same configuration in a hatchback, and the SPL was MUCH higher. I also don't recommend removing the stock sub, as you will create an odd-sized "port". The stock sub also does a good job at mid-bass frequencies.

Best of luck. Post pics when you are all said and done.
 
#13 ·
Front doors, I believe, are 9".
ngiardina, thanks again for all of the info but I have yet another question. Did you mean to say that the front door speakers are 6x9 as opposed to 9"? I have searched the web to see what options are available but I haven't been able to locate any 9" speakers. The front speakers are the last thing I need. Thanks again.
 
#12 ·
Forgot to include the wiring scheme, the connectors at the Bose amp are X1, which is an 8 pin gray connector, X2, which is a 16 pin black connector, X3, which is also a 16 pin black connector, and X4, which is a 16 pin brown connector. Also when looking at the car-side of the connnector, pin 1 is top right and last pin is bottom left This wiring only applies to the 10 speaker sound system:

The line-level inputs at the Bose amp in the driver's side of the trunk are:

Signal - Connector - Pin - Wire Color
RF+ X3 3 Lt Green
RF- X3 4 Lt Green
LF+ X3 11 Tan
LF- X3 12 Dk Green
RR+ X4 3 Dk Blue
RR- X4 4 Black
LR+ X4 11 Brown
LR- X4 12 Brown
Sub+ X4 5 White
Sub- X4 6 Pink

The speaker-level outputs of the Bose amp are as follows:

RF+(Door) X1 7 Lt Green
RF-(Door) X1 3 Dk Green
RF+(Dash) X2 7 Lt Green
RF-(Dash) X2 6 Purple
LF+(Door) X1 1 Tan
LF-(Door) X1 2 Gray
LF+(Dash) X2 4 Black
LF-(Dash) X2 5 Yellow
RR+(Door) X2 15 Dk Blue
RR-(Door) X2 14 Lt Blue
RR+(Deck) X2 3 Tan
RR-(Deck) X2 2 Red
LR+(Door) X2 16 Brown
LR-(Door) X2 8 Yellow
LR+(Deck) X2 11 Tan
LR-(Deck) X2 10 White
Sub+ X1 5 Dk Blue/White
Sub- X1 6 Lt Green/Black


Hope that helps. The reason I think that using speaker level outputs with a processor is better is due to the fact that you won't lose your DSP functions, which are built into the Bose amp. Also, when watching DVD's, you won't lose 5.1 surround. You don't even need to disrupt the center channel speaker.
 
#16 ·
Holy Cr#p cdigiovanni, you are going to shake the bolts on the car loose.

I am waiting to recieve my 2009, and would like to attempt to add a simple 12" box runnign off its own Amp. Nothing too extreme, I just need to try to figure out how hard it is to splice into the factory sub output in the Bose amp. Ideally I'd like to leave the stock 10 speakers as is and simply add this additional sub+amp for that added kick.

From the above thread it sounds like it is possible without messing up the factory system.
 
#17 ·
Hey all, sorry to bring this post back to the forefront but it seems as though another issue has arisen with my audio installation. I'm getting everything installed today and the installer just called to tell me that the voice activated navigation system will only function with the factory speakers, therefore, they can't be replaced with the tweeters from the component speakers I purchased.

Is this really the case? And if so, do you guys have any suggestions as to where I can have him install the tweeters without interrupting the factory look of the set-up. They are each 1 inch, if that helps. As always, thanks in advance for any info.
 
#18 ·
Hey all, sorry to bring this post back to the forefront but it seems as though another issue has arisen with my audio installation. I'm getting everything installed today and the installer just called to tell me that the voice activated navigation system will only function with the factory speakers, therefore, they can't be replaced with the tweeters from the component speakers I purchased.

Is this really the case? And if so, do you guys have any suggestions as to where I can have him install the tweeters without interrupting the factory look of the set-up. They are each 1 inch, if that helps. As always, thanks in advance for any info.

He doesn't know what he is talking about, how would a speaker (output device) affect the microphone (input device). The only thing you cant do with our cars is replace the head unit without a PAC P/N: OS3-Bose. I'm telling you, though, you shouldn't need to replace the in-car speakers. Sounds like this guy is taking you for a ride.
 
#19 ·
Well, I finally had everything installed and I have to admit that I'm fairly satisfied with the rsult. The install looks good and hits pretty hard. However, my installer was not able to figure out how to program the Rockford 3Sixty sound processor. He said that he is going to come by this week and complete the tuning aspect of the installation. In the meantime, songs played from my ipod sound pretty good but the bass sounds terible when listening to the radio, that includes Am/Fm and Xm. I hope this will be taken care of when he figures out how to work the 3Sixty.

giardina, how much do you think your friend down in Middlesex will charge to take a look at the installation and make sure that everything is installed properly? I should have paid your friend a visit as soon as I started to have doubts about my current installer but he is a friend of my uncle and I didn't want to stir the pot. Anyway, the heavylifting is done, but I want to make sure that I'm getting the most out of my system. For example, he said that he didn't wire the subs (Two 2 ohm Kicker L7s) down to 1 ohm because he said that the amp (a Rockford Fosgate 1000td) would overheat. BTW, you were right about the front doors speaker size. They are each 9" so he had to build a custom enclosure in order to fit the 6 1/5 components I purchased.
 
#20 ·
These forums are great but for some reason, I don't know if it is because I am blonde and all, but I am installing an amp and 2 12" mtx in serious into a 2009 cts. I have heard conflicting lines as far as were to get the source signal. The target is just to increase the base, obviously, and not to touch the mids and highs. Can I use the factory amp wire and convert it into RCA's or the rear door speaker wires in my high level input? Also, can I get to all my source lines off the amp already in the trunk?
 
#22 ·
I'll reply...I think you mean "in series" to increase the "bass". Ok, syntax aside....

Messing with the lines running to the amp in the trunk risks the amp not getting the signal it expects and causing additional unintended complications. The signal is an AC signal, and not much of one at that. Splitting it off can reduce the signal to the amp and now you have more issues. Do you really need the rear door speakers? If not, taking them at the high level into the amp is a consideration at the loss of the rear door speakers, but keep in mind the high level signal will have more noise than a better balanced low level signal intended to drive an amp. As you can see, there are several ways you can go with this. Why not ask a local audio shop if they've done this in a CTS before, and if so, can you hear the customers car. Most reputable shops can make a decent recommendation, and if they've done it before, they may just be able to have you listen to the previous job if the customer is pleased.
 
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