Has anyone been able to add the fog lamp assembly to a CTS 2008+ that only had the plastic placeholder inserts? Is the fog light wiring there for all cars or is it special for the performance packages?
I think in earlier posts in this thread they tell you the wire to use.
As I mentioned earlier in an older vehicle (2003 Avalanche) the BCM output was a negative and was able to drive a relay which seems to be the case with most of the BCM outputs.
In theory if the BCM output is active when the fog lights are supposed to be on you need a relay. Luckily most if not all Automotive relays follow a common setup and if you have a custom aftermarket kit it will work in the same manner.
Relay has 2 coil pins (85, 86) These pins are not directional on a standard automotive relay. One would go to +12 volts and the other would go to the BCM output. This way when the BCM output is active it completes the circuit thus closing the relay contact. You can wire the +12 volts to the battery directly, to an ignition on lead or the low beam power if you only want the fogs to work when the low beams are on. I suggest using low beams or ignition. The coil uses VERY little power. I put a .5 fast blow relay on the BCM lead to protect the BCM. Theoretically if you connect constant +12 volts to the coil you have the potential of the lights being on at any time if the other side of the coil gets grounded either by the BCM or other means. It is NOT suggested to put a switch on the negative lead if you are running from the BCM. You can damage the BCM output if you ground it or if you connect it directly to +12 volts.
relay Pin #30 is the common connection. This should have +12 volts going to it. Should be straight from a battery feed.
Relay pin 87 is normally open - This means when power is NOT applied through the coil this pin not connected. When power is applied through the coil to ground the relay will engage and this pin will be connected to pin #30. So if you have +12 volts to pin 30 you will also see +12 volts on this pin. So you run this pin to your fog lights.
Relay Pin 87A is normally closed. This means it is connected to pin 30 when power is NOT applied but becomes disconnected once power is applied through the coil and the relay is energized. You will not use this lead. Some relays may not have this lead on it if intended to only turn on an output.
When sizing your relays or fuses realize that for the wattage you are using divide by 12 volts to figure out your amperage. For standard fusing you want to run about %50 over the rated value. H9 bulbs are normally 65 watts and our h11 that is used in the fogs is 55 watts. For purposes of this calculation we will use 60 watts per bulb which is close enough. At a standard 12 volts we will be running roughly 120 watts with two bulbs which would be 10 amps. (120/12 = 10) So we would size the relay and the fuse to handle 15 amp. May notice the car may have a 20 amp fuse for headlights. Due to the car running 14.5 volts while running you are actually running about 10% over the rated value so the next sized fuse would be 20 amps. Some devices will actually maintain the wattage output so a raise in voltage creates a lowering of amperage usage but I don't believe bulbs respond that way. But in any case 15 or 20 amp fuses to protect a pair of ~60 watt bulbs is sufficient.
So if using the stalk that turns on the fog lights and displays an icon for the foglight on your dash it SHOULD be as simple as tying into the BCM output for the proper pin. The pin is mentioned earlier in this thread.
I wonder if the wiring is in place to run to the under hood fuse box. If it is to the under hood box it might be as simple as just splicing in a new wire to the fuse box. I will have to investigate the fuse box further. Install my switch and see what it looks like in the fuse panel.
If everything is there in the fuse panel at worst I could have to run a new wire to the fuse panel and a new one out of the fuse panel and then it should be same as a factory installation for all intents and purposes. Assuming everything is there. Thanks for the wire diagrams. I will have to play with it a little more.
This is why I hate these forums. Soon after joining you find your wallet has been emptied due to all the mods projects you started after reading someone elses thread.
Blew my wad on new wheels/tires and now I'm looking at adding fog lights! I'll have to find some way of justifying it, saftey?
I work afternoons and driving home I have to dodge deer and other wild life so for me the fogs will be a great addition to trying to keep my car in one piece. Oh yea, and I live 40 miles from work too..
Noticed on my truck that running the fogs I see the sides of the road much better and can see the deer on the side of the road way before I need to see them. Not nearly as bright as high beams but certainly help see the deer when other vehicles are around.
this is exactly what i need! is the 2012 non-performance package CTS wiring diagram the same as the 2011?
thanks
-mike
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i notice a big difference in my Ford F-250 with the fogs on.. the sides of the road are more illuminated if that makes sense... of course the F-250 sits a little higher than the CTS does but should still get the same effect.
now i'm on the fence... i have the CTS-V front clip installed but i have not wired up the fogs yet... i have the wiring kit, just dont know if i want an OEM look (which i do..) or just install a small switch in the dash....
i think i'll give the OEM option a try first and if that doesnt work i'll resort to the switch.
thanks for all the help guys!
i have to admit... that is the ugliest color that i've seen on a car in a long time... i think its called hugger orange...
dang kids and their cars... lol
Friend of mine just sold his 2006 Corvette for a 2010 Blue Mustang GT... Not sure why... Broke my heart...
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