So I've done quite a bit of research on adpating V2 rotors and calipers on a V1. And I'm toying around with this budget friendly option. I bought one of these undrilled rotor hats from Jegs. I'm wondering if a spacer can be made to bring the offset to 1" and then get the appropriate rotor with 373 mm diameter. That way there would be no brake pad overhang like you see with V2 calipers on V1 rotors. I got the idea when friend of mine showed me a catalogue for dirt modified guys that has almost every rotor size you could imagine for a 2-piece set up, and they're very, very cheap.
So in short, I would:
Machine 7.37 mm spacer for offset
Widen Hub Register Diameter to 67.44 mm
Drill 6 lug pattern in hat
Order appropriate rotor
If this works, the cost per two-piece rotor would be roughly $300. Which would include machining. Let me stress this is merely a hypothesis, and I'm just putting this out there for feedback from more knowledgable parties. Flame suit on.
What are you talking about? You can run V2 calipers on a V1 with a 2.5mm spacer behind the hub, which is incidentally the size of two OEM head shields. The "overhang" is 8-10mm. If that bothers you, you can buy 370mm RacingBrake rotors. I bought their 355mm rotors for $750 on Amazon and could replace the 355mm ring with a 370mm ring for about $450. But the cooling provided by the extra rotor surface area is not worth two pounds of unsprung weight.
Also, the largest compatible rotor on the page you linked measures 332mm in diameter.
Correct, I saw that V2 calipers can run with V1 rotors, but I was trying to avoid the 8-10mm overhang. I guess the idea I was trying to get at was a cheaper alternative to the Racing Brake kit. I understand it's a supply and demand thing, but $1,000 for a pair of rotors is still a lot. As for the compatible rotor's from wilwood, yes, the don't have the 370mm rotor, but I've been told there may be a rotor from another manufacturer that can fit the hats I bought. That's what I'm going to find out hopefully.
All in all I'll probably end up running V2 calipers on my V1 rotors, but thought I'd give this a shot first.
Just make sure you're willing to pay the unsprung weight penalty for 370mm rotors. I'll take all of the braking power I can get, but I can't justify the weight. And if it's a visual thing, I guarantee that you're the only one that'll know whether you have 355 or 370mm rotors. It's a pretty subtle difference.
If you're going to take the time to figure out how to build custom rotors for the CTS-V, I would recommend you take a look at the 405mm GTR rotors. The following is a picture of a 405mm Brembo rotor with a Brembo 6-piston caliper (not quite the same as ours) on a 20" Neez QD7 wheel (similar to the Forgestar F14).
I think him/her looking to test this idea out is not a bad idea as this is more of an affordable proof of concept. Suggesting a 4700 kit when he is mentioning 300 bucks isnt helping.
and if you are doing this for a performance reason then the weight gain is more than worth it, and that weight could be lost else where.
Sorry, I thought it was a sufficient breadcrumb trail to point out that huge (395-405mm) rotors exist (I basically linked to the most expensive package around, giving him an idea of which brand names are major players), and that they only cost $900-1400 if you have hats. Surely, there's potential to put together a package with higher overall value than 370mm RacingBrake rotors.
Don't agree that the weight can be recovered elsewhere, other than my STS-V spindle mod and possibly Creative Steel's tubular lower control arms (in development).
cant argue on the bigger better setups, we just have another hurdle that some dont due to our limited wheel options.
and you can shave weight without even noticing it in your mod process. some affordable and some not. and not all would be equal, something like getting custom wheels made save you some weight over the stockers. it felt like my lg set felt a great deal lighter than my h&r setup. hell even doing a 5 lug and some 18# wheels could help.
that and various tires have different weights at similar sizes.
Chamfering the top edge of the brake pad to compensate for the smaller rotor might make sense here. As the pads wear in, the 8 to 10mil lip that isn't wearing down with the rest of the pad can cause the brakes to get a bit noisy as this lip starts to ride on the top edge of the rotor.
Some people have a hypersensitive butt dyno for unsprung weight. I didn't notice anything going from the V1 to the V2 setup - and I don't mean just the 2# from the bigger rotors, I mean whatever extra weight there is for the bigger calipers and pads, too. I don't notice any change in ride quality or steering feel. What I do notice is that the brakes work better on track, which is why I wanted bigger caliper, pads and rotors.
I agree with this 100% and often get resistance when trying to talk the newbies out of some of this stuff that others taut as being the second coming of christ. Granted, some are pushing their cars a lot harder than others and maybe they are seeing 2/10s improvement on lap times somewhere but in the real world, in doesn't work this way.
The same can also be said for alignment specs. We have members here swear that they can dial over or understeer out of their car with a simple toe in or toe out adjustment. Maybe on some level they are seeing some kind of subtle result from their efforts but as someone who aligned front-ends every day all day for 5+ years, i ain't buying this subtle nuance non-sense that tends to send newbies running for their closest alignment guy.
personally the unsrpung weight argument is nice if you are ( in my opinion) pushing your car over multiple laps very hard and have times to back up you pushing as hard. But i havent and without enough seat time and track time be able to get 100% out of what this vehicle could offer me handling wise.
I have come very close to asking for all the braking ability i can muster up on both the street and track. Brakes and tires are something i dont think i can have too much of in my own car on a track with other people.
Also you can do much with someones alignment settings unless you drive like them, have your car similar to theirs and hit the same track as they do. Really the same with any dynamic driving settings, thats normally why OEM's dont make various vehicle settings that knife edges because not everyone find it suitable.
I also agree with this. If you are pushing your car beyond 95% of it's capability, it is reasonable to expect the car to become more responsive to weight reduction/distribution and alignment specs.
My point here is to distinguish this at some point because race track and street are two completely different worlds and what might be worthwhile in one world, may not make sense in the other.
This thread pisses me off only because it reminds me that I have had a full set of yellow V2 calipers for about 8 months now that aren't on my car...
That said, the more options the better as it will be another year before I get these installed.
Edit: After install of my UUC 2-piece rotors, it did seem like there was a noticeable difference on turn in even on the street. I tried to discount it as a placebo effect, but I wasn't even thinking of that possibility when I first noticed (on the off ramp after bedding the new pads).
Edit: After install of my UUC 2-piece rotors, it did seem like there was a noticeable difference on turn in even on the street. I tried to discount it as a placebo effect, but I wasn't even thinking of that possibility when I first noticed (on the off ramp after bedding the new pads).
As a DD if you never intend to track your car two-piece rotors are beyond overkill. your money is better spent elsewhere on other mods. ALso, it is had to put a mileage life to rotors as driving conditions vary for everyone but i would say at least 50K miles if you only DD it.
Thanks for making this distinction. I figured this was the case but not everyone would understand this unless the distinction is made.
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