Cadillac Owners Forum banner

Back up on blocks for winter work

10K views 76 replies 10 participants last post by  philistine 
#1 ·
Had a bunch of custom exhaust work done and the first thing the guy said when he put it up on the rack is,"Get rid of that header wrapping!".

So, the exhaust work is done and works great, but I have to disassemble the exhaust and strip the headers, then send them off for Hot Jet coating.

Also, have a "Fast Lane" super duper alternator to install as the short drives aren't cutting it with the computer and upgraded stereo.

In the meantime I got a convertor to adapt the OEM radio to an optical sound feed I am gonna hook up.

If time allows, may turn attention to the fuel delivery system as I have a bunch of parts I have been collecting for it.
 
#3 ·
So odd, I'm taking mine off the "blocks" to drive for the winter. My motivation is dwindling as I put it back together, every bolt I turn seems to be a huge effort. I'm exhausted, largely from doing the fuel system.

So what's the big plans for the winter...give the list.
 
#4 ·
So odd, I'm taking mine off the "blocks" to drive for the winter. My motivation is dwindling as I put it back together, every bolt I turn seems to be a huge effort. I'm exhausted, largely from doing the fuel system.
I know how that feels. It's fun to dig into stuff and make it better...but not so much fun reassembling it. Beer + music and get into the zone! The DANGER ZONE!

 
#7 ·
This should be a familiar sight to anyone who mods. lol

I got the "Race Ramps" from a guy who didn't need them at a very good price.

I thought that they must be a joke as they weigh close to nothing, but they work and store very well.
 

Attachments

This post has been deleted
#13 ·
Ok, the alternator is out.

Got ready to install the new one and noticed the pulleys are different sizes.

Stopped work and placed a call.

Mechman says to use the alternator as received (smaller pulley) as the only way to improve the low RPM output was to use a smaller pulley.

Have to get a shorter belt now.
 
#15 ·
For the front, I used two jacks and the oem jacking points.

Get it up high enough after chocking the rear wheels and install the ramps.

For the rear, two jacks (one each) underneath the wheel spring seats as the oem jacking points will not let me jack it up high enough.

FYI I feel safer under the car now then I ever did with jack stands.
 
#20 ·
I bought them used so I didn't get a choice in height.

The 10" gives me plenty of room (even with the car lowered 1") to roll around on my Bone creeper.

http://www.bonecreeper.com

----------

Here is a good one.

MECHMAN implies that you need to add wires to the high output alternator.

A redundant hot and ground of 1 gauge.

That is BIG PHUCKING WIRE!

I decided to use 4 gauge as that is about all I can deal with, given the limited space.
 
#25 ·
Quickcable is my recommendation for this stuff.

Additionally many batterys plus stores carry crimp ends, and have a crimper in store for use.

If not, find a shop that works on electric fork lifts, they should be able to help out.

You can also do a solder bath, but that is a PITA.
 
#26 ·
Wire is high flex:http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004Z0Z4ZW/ref=oh_details_o04_s00_i01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Red & black with diameters about the size of a little finger.

I ordered a crimper, hydraulic type:http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00CUQ042Q/ref=oh_details_o03_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

As for crimps, I am using the copper type with a long barrel like these: http://www.amazon.com/Pico-Battery-Tubular-Terminals-Package/dp/B00030CYD8/ref=pd_sim_hi_27

S
o, it ended up costing about $150.00 more for parts plus the approximate $500.00 (for the alternator) to install the thing properly.
 
#29 · (Edited)
Good stuff.

I had Greenlee stuff where I used to work, and access to the best wire and materials.

No more since I retired, now out of my own pocket.

I still had to order heat shielding for the cables.

Also, FYI you don't want to use rubber insulation under a hood as it bakes out and cracks worse then some of the PVC stuff.
 
#30 ·
I've had that quickcable welding wire under hood for many years, without any real damage. It's not real rubber :) Still flexes like new.

I've had quite a bit of experience with those quickcable pieces in a previous life, many thousands of connections, and never a failure, under some rough racing conditions.

sorry for the thread jack, just other options for those looking.
 
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top