Weekend just isn't long enough...
Weekend just isn't long enough...
Lucky!!!! IIRC you're going with a McLeod right? What flywheel and throw out/slave?
My question is what parts are still in your car??
And I hope you don't need it for Monday!
That diff looks massive compared to the size of the car. Nice optical illusion :)
Looks like you have a bunch of work to do !
Went with the Katech LS9x clutch, 12lb aluminum flywheel, stock slave. I have the exhaust, entire drivetrain and cradle removed. Got the clutch and bellhousing bolted back up. I put some shifter bandaids in there from some bushings I got from PISNUOFF along with the Home Depot bushings - it's really tight now!
I'm installing the CS 8.8 complete turnkey kit. Then gonna drop the gas tank and interrogate the fuel system with a DW300 pump, Racetronix hotwire, trapdoor, and new a new bulkhead connector for the fuel bucket etc.
I got some DEI tunnel shielding to wrap the trans tunnel - it's sticky back but very stiff stuff so gonna form it and bolt it in. There are a few other odds/ends to get off my work desk and install - spherical RSM, brakes etc.
I'm waiting for other parts to come in...new Revshift MMs since my headers torched the old ones (weren't shielded), new Tick Bleeder, and hopefully the CS trailing arms come in soon.
I work in 2 modes...fast get-er-done mode, and slow beer drinking having fun wrenching in the garage with loud music mode. It'll be down for at least another week.
What kind of bulkhead connector and trapdoor?
BCWS-001 - bulkhead connector wire kit
BCA-4W - spare 4-way connector in case I mess up the connector
RCS-001 - connector for intank pump
WR-TEW-10-0-25 - 10awg black wire
WR-TEW-10-2-25 - 10awg red wire
gasket - FDA SILICONE RUBBER SHEET 1/16" THICK 12" X 12" SQUARE FOOD GRADE HIGH TEMP
trap door cover - 12 ga 12" x 18" 304 2B Finish Stainless Steel Sheet
fastening nuts - NEW PEM CLSS-032-2 SELF CLINCHING NUT , 10-32 THREAD ( 75 PC. LOT )
screws - Stainless Steel Phillips Pan Head Machine Screw 10/32 x 3/8 Qty-25
I also got a 16 gauge air nibbler.
Basically, I'm going to go directly from the pump to the bulkhead connector and directly to the hotwire kit. I'll have to modify the current hotwire kit for the new bulkhead connection. After I get all that done, with any luck I'll fab up a trap door. It will be sealed and easy to access. The new bulkhead connector enables the addition of another fuel pump if/when the time comes. I will also eliminate the stock thin wire in the process.
Edit: Hey Fuzzy, that writeup when you installed the Revshift cradle bushings was very handy when I dropped my cradle - thanks!
Well, at least if you don't get the V done this weekend you can just drive the police cruiser. It's always good to have a 2nd car when you've got big projects going on!
Here's some car porn:
I thought for a minute there that you were going to buy a sealed, stainless steel trap door for the back seat of the car. I'm in the market for one, should you locate a good one. I'm definitely considering purchasing those connectors for the tank. Right now, the debate in my head is whether to go with a DW300 or a Walbro 450 pump. I'm concerned about them overheating in the stock tank, though.
Is that an iron or aluminum 8.8? Which differential option did you pick? Have you considered running a spherical billet bushing in the front?
I have the Iron 8.8" Truetrac, 3:73 gears. I cleaned and generously lubricated all the bushings - good call though, I had it loosely bolted then tore it apart and lubed it real good.
Regarding the fuel mod - I chose the DW300 for the low ampere load. I'm having all sorts of issues with the 340lph drop in tank in my other car. I originally ordered a bunch of stuff to fix that problem with Racetronix. The wiring is a little more robust on the s2k and that pump is causing all sorts of problems and will absolutely melt 18awg when wired to a relay from the battery. I don't want to repeat that issue with the V.
The limiting factor going with a larger pump is the wiring you have going to it. A Walbro 255 and DW300 is very safe. Once you get past the wiring then it's the limitations of the bucket. A much larger pump is more likely to overheat and cavitate because it is beyond the design of the OEM bucket. That is where you have to run a return line. Just a FYI...the stock bulkhead connector is good for 13-13.5amps and it's a real POS.
What is this spherical bushing you speak of?
Correction: none of the products I was referring to fit our cars, but I'll keep looking. Maybe something like this solid aluminum bushing:
Hmm, I see what you are talking about. The CS 8.8 kit differentials eliminate the famous front bushing fiasco. It is all metal contact. I must say that if there is any incredulity about the fitment of the kit...rest assured, Max did his homework - fits perfect! The measurements to get that bracket dead-nuts must have been a pain.
The fuel tank drops right down once you have the cradle out.
Just unbolt the 2 strap bolts and done - it's just wire management after that. I put my raceramp wheel cribs under there to hold it so I can work on it. I should mention that I was so confident that I could bang that ring off to access the fuel bucket - fail! That phuckin sob pos mfer wouldn't give. I gotta check around for a rental but I did order one from Amazon. Doesn't really interfere with the other crap I gotta do but damn...I really got personal with that locking ring - had to walk away.
Check it out...all metal contact and tight fit.