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pig in slop

131K views 704 replies 43 participants last post by  philistine 
#1 · (Edited)
Weekend just isn't long enough...

 
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#581 · (Edited)
Sorry that I've been out of touch... things have gotten crazy at work, plus I'm still working long hours on at least five separate CTS-V projects simultaneously.



After trying to get in touch with Tuff Stuff for a week, attempting to get a replacement pump part number, I finally realized that they simply don't pick up the phone or respond to emails. So I did what any sane person would do: dropped $700 on an aluminum KRC racing pump that can spin up to 9000 RPM without cavitating. As far as I know, this will be the first CTS-V with one or an adjustable flow valve to fine-tune assistance. After dropping something like $1300 on parts (including a very nice, compact Earl's cooler), all I can hope is that it's worth it.

By the way, the KRC staff are great. I talked to Norm and Cody at KRC Power for something like five hours over two weeks--it's hard to get them to shut up! :bigroll: When I build the system out, I'll pass along everything I can about power steering system heating and cooling. Turns out that most of our fluid problems should be solvable, not by installing a larger cooler, but by moving the lines away from the headers and radiator and shielding them against radiant heat. Of course, if you're running the stock pump you'll always run into a cavitation problem at over 5000 pump RPM (~3700 engine RPM), but by and large the "brown fluid machine" should be a killable beast.

I don't know what I'll have time to do this weekend, but I'm really hoping it involves cleaning some of this stuff off the table:



I have a shop lined up to repaint my car and extend my fenders by at least an inch. Ultimately, I will probably be running 20x10" and 20x12" Forgestar F14s by the end of the year. I will also have the Extreme Composites hood installed and clearanced. Grilles and headlights are in the mail to be powdercoated and painted piano black. MightyMouse is working on the second beta version of the spindle ducts. He's going to flat pattern the duct portion for me, and I'll either roll it or bend it into the required shape prior to welding the seam.
 
#582 · (Edited)
Sorry that I've been out of touch... things have gotten crazy at work, plus I'm still working long hours on at least five separate CTS-V projects simultaneously.
Uhh, only 5??? Pfft, let me know when you reach 10 - then we count!

Let me get some of that heat wrap and is that a shiny fuel filter I see? Jokes aside, very interested in the steering system. I think the steering pump mod (system) not only solves the root problem with the overheating but also preserves the steering rack. The price is steep but I can say from experience...there are no cts-v steering racks readily available new or rebuilt. CTS-V steering racks are also not DIY rebuild friendly. My car was down for 2 months waiting on parts for that damn steering rack.

Btw, new fuel hoses and fittings have shipped - going with the PTFE stuff. The Tilton 76-875 arrived and the OEM clutch master cylinder arrives tomorrow - R&D starts this weekend. I've decided I'm committed to the project. I'm confident I'll have it wrapped up and installed before you finish with the 9" - haha!
 
#583 ·
This video shows the design of the clutch master cylinder adapter and how it fits together. I chose this design over a few others because it is the easiest to fabricate.



Here is the OEM and Tilton 76-875 side by side comparison - the dimensions are very similar to each other.


Take a close look at the mating geometry of the OEM and the adapter.





The OD of the adapter is the same as the OEM clutch MC flange. The twist lock feature of the OEM is replicated on the adapter to the exact dimensions. I kept the OD to a minimum with this design for the smallest profile. The ID has minimal volume removed for strength. This should require no cutting of the firewall since the OD of the adapter is no larger than the OEM clutch MC flange.

I really won't know till I tear stuff apart for the installation. I'm looking for suitable heim joints to attach to the stock location. The tip of the standoff on the clutch pedal (the part that the master cylinder arm attaches to) has a groove ring which I think might be able to put a lock clip to secure the heim joint.

Any thoughts?
 
#584 · (Edited)
I'm genuinely impressed. :thumbsup:

Shouldn't the bigger end of your Tilton twist lock adapter have an eyeball plate / flange, so that you can bolt it rather than weld it to the MC? Do you think there's any advantage to increasing the size of the fluid reservoir, or does the fluid not circulate when hot?

On the subject of the Heim joint, do you need a rod end with a long threaded base to increase your reach? If I had to choose one, I would probably either pick Ballistic Fabrication's 4340 forged rod end or something from Ruff Stuff, who uses 4130 steel. Both are probably overkill from a strength perspective, but I'd rather shell out an extra $25-50 to never worry about breaking my clutch linkage.

Edit: Ah, I see that you've already got the eyeball plate. Thanks for opening up the permissions on the video!
Edit #2: I guess I'm extra-retarded tonight, because I could've gleaned most of that information from your previous post.
 
#585 ·
I'm genuinely impressed. :thumbsup:

Shouldn't the bigger end of your Tilton twist lock adapter have an eyeball plate / flange, so that you can bolt it rather than weld it to the MC? Do you think there's any advantage to increasing the size of the fluid reservoir, or does the fluid not circulate when hot?

On the subject of the Heim joint, do you need a rod end with a long threaded base to increase your reach? If I had to choose one, I would probably either pick Ballistic Fabrication's 4340 forged rod end or something from Ruff Stuff, who uses 4130 steel. Both are probably overkill from a strength perspective, but I'd rather shell out an extra $25-50 to never worry about breaking my clutch linkage.

Note: your Youtube channel is set to private.
The 'bigger end of the adapter' does bolt together. There is a flange that is large enough to clamp it together to the Tilton MC. The shaft has some wiggle room to compensate for a little angle offset so I don't think I need to incorporate the eyeballs. I fixed the video and put it to public. I am not pursing a larger reservoir. I am trying to use the stock components as much as possible.



Thanks for the link on the rod arms and heim joints. It needs a short rod arm - 2-3 inches of total length is fine.

This is the connection at the end of the stock clutch MC.


This is the connection anyone should be familiar with if they have done a clutch install. It connects to the slave.


The hose ends have identical fittings with the exception of the black adapter that connects to the slave - it is held by a clip. I'm thinking that black adapter is reusable. Where the reservoir goes I'm fine with a barb just like the stock - so can reuse that line.
 
#589 ·
Nice work here guys!!

Regarding relocating the power steering lines.....I haven't looked but certainly will once I get a few minutes but do you think there would be any substantial gains realized by relocating the power steering lines with an otherwise completely stock power steering system or do you think this would require making a new set of lines.

Thanks for you efforts!
 
#590 ·
Regarding relocating the power steering lines.....I haven't looked but certainly will once I get a few minutes but do you think there would be any substantial gains realized by relocating the power steering lines with an otherwise completely stock power steering system or do you think this would require making a new set of lines.
I don't think you should spend the time trying to relocate your power steering lines. However, you could pick up a 12' length of Thermo-Tec Express Sleeve (P/N #14031) and cut it into lengths to shield your feed and return lines. Typically costs about $100.
 
#592 · (Edited)
Based on what Norm @ KRC Power said, the heat problem is mostly due to the poor routing and shielding of the power steering lines. Pump cavitation and excessive recirculation into a small reservoir do not help, but not nearly enough to create the conditions we've been experiencing. Based on my experience with two different coolers (the FHP-10029 and Derale 13201 7000 series), I'd say that he's right. My CTS-V still produces brown fluid at an alarming rate.

This should certainly help my CTS-V stay a little bit cooler, but it won't be the total answer:

 
#597 ·
I appreciate the information. I put the Aeromotive 5/16" barb (unless I'm misunderstanding you, you're taking a risk on the 1/4" barb because of price), an Earl's 3AN 90 degree adapter with a swivel fitting, and the aluminum crush washers you mentioned in my cart for later. Gotta love GetFast1. ;) Did you buy a new OEM line, or are you going to stick with your old one?

Out of curiosity, what made you choose the 7/8" bore on that Tillton 76-875? I know just enough about MC bore size to be dangerous, so I'd like to hear someone else's thoughts. Also, is the bleed port on the Tilton specifically meant to help you bleed the master, or could it potentially replace the long slave bleed line?

This is getting exciting. It sounds like there are only three things left to do: select a pair of fasteners for your adapter, a Heim joint, and a fabricator. Have you talked to anyone yet?
 
#603 · (Edited)
It's not the price of the aeromotive fitting - it's that 1/4" is the limiting factor based on the size of the stock clutch master cylinder port on the reservoir. A slightly larger port would gain nothing so it's throwing money away for a $20 fitting - no bling factor either because you can't see it.

The 7/8" bore is a little tricky to answer. There are simple calculations (7/8)/2 = radius. pi*r^2=area. Do those calculations and you get a piston surface area of 0.60 square inches. If the pedal mechanical advantage remains constant then with a larger bore, you move more fluid with less travel. What does this mean for the driving experience? It means that you get faster shifting. It is not the cadillac feel because engagement is much quicker and will likely show more weaknesses in the stock drivetrain - my guess. It does however also provide fully disengaging the clutch which has been lacking by a lot of aftermarket clutch installs. Essentially this completes the 8.8" and 9" drivetrain replacements with aftermarket clutches - drag strip ready.

There are 2 ports on the Tilton, use one and plug the other. It is designed for multiple set-ups. Yes, you could use a bleeder from the Tilton clutch MC instead of the slave. It would be much easier to service and would eliminate a lot of the confusion out there which bleeder to go with from which company etc. I know for a fact that those parts are easily accessible to make a bleeder at the Tilton 76 series - preferably at the top port.

I'm trying to stick to the OEM parts as much as possible so I am re-using the OEM line. I purchased a brand new OEM clutch MC for R&D. I don't plan to install it. I just wanted the measurements so when I'm finished I plan to sell it unused - haha.

Yeah, the next step is finding a heim joint that uses the stock location - preference. Once I get that worked out then it's off to the fabricator for the adapter. I haven't selected anyone yet for the job - I prefer an engineer/expert machinist. The reason for an engineer is because I can send my Solidworks model along with the drawing package. Expert machinist because they can glean all the info from the drawing package and tell me where I might have f-up on tolerances.

Now that is out of the way...dude what happened to your car? It's all banged up. I think you are going to get a lot of traction with that power steering pump mod. That is one mod that you are going to have to iron out all wrinkles before I jump on it - I still have my spare rack so if you need measurements for fittings, let me know.
 
#599 ·
I will, but not for at least a week. Working on getting the car back on its feet is progressing slowly--hampered by my hectic work schedule and the snow.


The damage--destroyed fender, fascia, upper grille, headlight, foglamp, and fender liners (not pictured)




Hood off in preparation for raw EC hood installation


Passenger side - plastic gasket/cover removed


Driver's side - plastic gasket/cover removed
 
#609 · (Edited)
I looked through a bunch of industrial/MIL-SPEC Heim joint manufacturers and it appears that Heim joints are not made with a bore that exceeds their thickness. For instance, you probably found a lot of 0.4375" bore Heim joints with a 0.562" ball width, but nothing thinner. FK makes some thin stuff that almost fits the bill, but you'd have to shave down the pin on the clutch pedal to 0.313".

You may want to try contacting QS Components, Inc to see if they will make a solid rod end to your specifications. They seem to be the right kind of place--small and capable. Here's an example of one of their rod ends. Other "small but capable" possibilities include Steinjager and Howe Racing.

If you're looking for bar stock, you might want to try 1" diameter 6061-T6, which will give you 1/4" on either side of the 7/16" bore. Occasionally, you might be able to find 7075-T6 bar stock at a good price. Apparently, 7075-T561 measures 150 vs. 95 for 6061-T6 on the Brinell hardness test (and fatigue strength appears to follow the trend), which is nice if you think the part is going to be battered, but it's a little harder to machine.
 
#610 ·
I looked through a bunch of industrial/MIL-SPEC Heim joint manufacturers and it appears that Heim joints are not made with a bore that exceeds their thickness. For instance, you probably found a lot of 0.4375" bore Heim joints with a 0.562" ball width, but nothing thinner. FK makes some thin stuff that almost fits the bill, but you'd have to shave down the pin on the clutch pedal to 0.313".
Yeah, I got a lesson on Heim joints with all my searching. Would have been nice to find a rod end that fits perfectly. It wouldn't have hurt the Germans/GM to make 'the part' to industry fitting standards. I sifted through the Bimmer forums some more and found those guys had similar issues. Our clutch MC is made by the same company with some of the same fittings. You can spot many of them on the E36 and E46 Bimmers.

I don't think you have to worry about your broken spring on the clutch pedal with this set-up (once I get all the bugs figured out). The Tilton returns very fast with it's own internal spring. The OEM does not return at all - no internal spring.

If you're looking for bar stock, you might want to try 1" diameter 6061-T6, which will give you 1/4" on either side of the 7/16" bore. Occasionally, you might be able to find 7075-T6 bar stock at a good price. Apparently, 7075-T561 measures 150 vs. 95 for 6061-T6 on the Brinell hardness test (and fatigue strength appears to follow the trend), which is nice if you think the part is going to be battered, but it's a little harder to machine.
Those are some good links - thanks! I'm going to try a prototype with the 6061-T6 for the adapter and see how it holds up. It should be strong enough to hold the Tilton MC to the clutch plate. I will probably anodize the adapter for corrosion protection. The rod arm is a different story. The factory pin looks to be carbon steel. That is a bad combination with aluminum - promotes galvanic corrosion. The Tilton threaded rod looks to have a chromate surface protection so it is resistance to corrosion. So I'm leaning towards stainless. There is no perfect metal combination but aluminum and carbon steel is perhaps one of the worst.

FWIW, the stock rod end is 100% plastic.
 
#613 · (Edited)
Nice! Although I can't imagine replacing those fuel lines is fun, at least you don't have to muck around with the bucket anymore. I must say that I like the looks of your old lines better. Beyond the black/brown TPU color, I'm not partial to the flares on the hose side of the AFD fittings, but at least the surface finish looks and feels durable. Personally, I plan on using the normal-colored lines for the engine bay, and the black/brown lines everywhere else.

One thing that annoyed me today: my Redline boot came in, and they only sewed three of the four corners all the way to the top. I'm asking for a replacement. By the way, Nappa leather is a dead ringer for the V2 material. The grain is really nice and fine. When I go to have my doors wrapped and the steering wheel re-wrapped, I'm definitely going to choose Nappa leather again.


Redline 1.5" shorter boot with silver thread on the left, V2 boot on the right


Notice how one of the four sets of silver thread doesn't go all the way to the top

Another thing on the annoying list: I installed the bare Extreme Composites hood yesterday and it barely fits. It's going to require a lot of work to get it looking perfect. I think they drilled the holes for the chrome surround too low or possibly uneven, because the hood doesn't want to close all the way in the front. It might be partially due to my messed up fascia, however. A thought occurred to me, looking at the rear of the hood--Philistine, do you know whether the base of the windshield is a low pressure zone or not? Because it'd be awesome to hog out the material back there and install a grille that permits air to be sucked out of the engine bay and over the windshield.







My poor car looks like such miserable crap right now. I actually considered not posting these pictures until I had everything done, but hopefully these help motivate me to get everything fixed extra fast.

In unrelated news... MightyMouse and I are still working on the second draft of the spindle ducts. Some of the required measurements were really hard to make, and I basically had to take Drafting 101 to understand how to flat pattern the spindle duct itself. Here's an early drawing--it still needs a lot of work. The rectangular end needs to be offset relative to the 3.0" circular end, and also cut at an angle such that the duct won't contact the spindle. I also need to lengthen it, adding at least 20mm of pure cylindrical length to the rounded area to permit hose and a thick T-bolt clamp to be comfortably fitted over the end.



I still don't know how I'm going to create a nice round end while neatly creasing the corners of the other side, but I'm working on it. This will reap dividends when I work on ram air foglamp replacements.
 
#614 ·
The shift boot is disappointing but I'm not surprised in the least that you aftermarket hood will need reworking to fit properly. Situation normal.....

GM has long recognized the windshield base as a low pressure area and if i remember correctly they used it as a basis for building the cowl induction systems for the Camaro, the Chevelle and the 70's Trans Am.

It seems very logical to vent the engine compartment through this area. As I think almost as much as you do, I figured that my daily driver won't be heating up the brakes enough to warranty using the brake cooling ducts, so I've wondered if it could make sense to reroute that incoming brake cooling duct air to the lower/front part of the engine bay in the hopes of creating a bit of air flow through there. It seems the under hood temps are a little high on the V1 for my taste and I haven't even lived through a summer with it yet.
 
#615 ·
GM has long recognized the windshield base as a low pressure area and if i remember correctly they used it as a basis for building the cowl induction systems for the Camaro, the Chevelle and the 70's Trans Am.
I would think this is true on all cars. The faster moving air across the windshield base creates a lower pressure. Just pop open your sunroof and it creates a negative pressure relative to the cabin.

Fuzzy, what drawing software are you using? Regarding the hood and fender-bender, nothing a body shop can't fix and make it perfect.

I have 2 Redline boots. The V was fine but the one I ordered for my s2k needed a lot of fixing. Luckily I was able to do the work myself. The length was all wrong and I had to trim a lot off the base and sew the top opening to a smaller diameter - that and had to hole punch the correct size holes for alignment etc. Even after all that I would still use them in the future because the end-product is pretty awesome.

I tell you what, those PTFE lines took no time at all to fab up. It's got a smaller OD and a pretty good bend radius - much better than I anticipated. I like the protective wrap on the stainless steel - no cuts on the fingers.
 
#617 ·
Redline is normally a top shelf company, and i guess mistakes happen.


As far as the clutch master cylinder.....I've had to pull mine long ago to send to spec to consider making some altercations to it better pressure build up but that never happened. If you get the swap completed and tested make a thread on it and im down to buy parts for it.
 
#621 ·
I completely understand and don't expect anything soon, but i don't want to have to be searching and purchasing parts later. I like to have them on hand for the project. committed to the cause, that's all. I get the parts while I can.
 
#622 · (Edited)
I hear you on that. I ordered the miscellaneous parts as soon as Philistine identified them, but I'm not ordering the Tilton 76-875 master until he's ready. You never know what might happen during testing, and I wouldn't want to get stuck with another piece of unnecessary equipment (see my pile of AN fittings, hose, and extra STS/V2 spindles).

This weekend is dedicated to replacing my stinky CPE fuel lines with the PTFE stuff. The fuel fumes creep into the cabin (no leaks) and make it unbearable. My garage smells like a gas station. Apparently it takes a couple months for the fumes to leach from the CPE lines...then it only gets stronger after that. I'm really kicking myself for not researching suitable fuel lines (suitable for a weekend dragster yes, not for a DD Caddy) from the beginning. At least I don't have to drop the cradle and tank for that!
Thanks for making me feel less behind the curve that I actually am. ;) I've been working a lot of weekends, due to scheduling at work, so I haven't had the free time to do much more than come home, eat, and sleep. I finally decided, after messing around for a couple of hours, that I'm not going into work today. So I should have some long overdue updates.

Case in point: the bucket is finally finished. Many thanks to Philistine, who blazed this trail, making it much easier for others to follow and expand upon his ideas. It uses:


The real question, which time can only answer, is how well the combination of yellow PTFE tape and Permatex Permashield will hold up. I used it to bulk up the DW300 outlets, the return line inlet, and improve the pickup tube connection to the overhead sprinkler (?) assembly.

The only place where hose clamps were not necessary was on the Parker 801 to 10AN barbed fitting. That hose is seriously hard to stretch, and it required a bench vise with aluminum jaws to hold the 10AN barb fitting while I jammed it on. Copious amounts of lube and profanity help a lot. :bigroll:

As you may notice, the 5/8" Parker 801 hose is partially kinked in the middle. However, even with this happening, there is virtually zero restriction (blowing through the 10AN bulkhead adapter). Compared to the 3/8" return line that I used earlier (which felt like blowing up a small party balloon), this is a quantum leap in efficiency.

One thing to note: this line is so huge that you should clip the excess stub off the fuel level indicator float, or risk allowing the float to hit the line. You can also ensure that the line doesn't interfere with the float by gently rotating the barbed connector away from the float and tightening the nut down while you hold that angle.


Unmodified float--notice how much that flattened wire sticks out


Excess wire trimmed off and sanded down

One thing that I hoped to improve on, and failed miserably at, was eliminating the need to wrench on the lines with the fuel bucket halfway in the tank. It's just not possible to eliminate that part of the process. In fact, whereas Philistine may have only needed to wrench on the return line, I will probably have to do this for the primary pump AND the return line. Stay tuned.

----------


Underneath lid, suction side


Underneath lid, float side


Dual 3/8" DW300 pump feed lines


Single 5/8" return line


Side view, suction side. Primary pump hose is only slightly squashed by the ring clamp--the shadow in this picture makes it look much worse.


Side view, float side. Note how the Parker 801 5/8" return line is slightly kinked. Also, appearances may be deceptive--you would probably rip the return line in half before it came off the barbed fitting. No clamp necessary there.


Top view, showing dual -10AN feeds (either side) and single -10AN return (center) -- they can rotate freely

Before I forget: Philistine's question regarding the possibility of eliminating the "horseshoe" portion of the lid really bore fruit. It opened up my options on fittings, and I can confidently say that this bucket is as solid as a rock without it. Case in point: while taking pictures, a little shim I had placed underneath the bucket to keep it from toppling slipped out, and the bucket fell off the table, lid-first. No damage whatsoever.

Impressive considering this thing weighs 4.7 lbs! :thumbsup:
 
#623 ·
Hey Philistine--check out these stainless steel 1/2" barbed tee fittings I got! I think they're going to look and work well, next to the vacuum manifold.



I also got around to installing the outer stubs on the axles. If I learned anything in the process, it's that achieving 60 ft-lbs is going to be a PITA when it comes time to attach each axle to the center section.



Lastly...my power steering system part collection is almost complete! I feel like I'm in some kind of CTS-V parts hell...I'm sure that most people would love to be in my position, but I would like to get this stuff OUT and on the freaking car already.



On the positive side, I will probably be the only CTS-V owner with a power steering system that has a remote bleeder line. :stirpot:
 
#624 ·
maybe so, but i am on board for the power steering upgrade. want to see how you do after fit and finish, before i step up to the plate on this one. going to end up selling my GC/FG2 setup and upgrade to the KW3/Swift setup. probably do this after I end up moving to san diego. I will be running the 10% UD ATI, so may have to check on the PS pulley diameter. seems like a must do for my upcoming drives in southern california.
 
#625 ·
The fuel bucket looks pretty good! I've been looking at the pics for some length. I noticed a few things/differences:

1) You wrapped a worm clamp around the entire bucket to keep everything together. I used one for similar purposes but mine does not wrap the entire bottom. Instead I cut into the lower shell and routed it under the fuel pumps. This was to keep fuel under the fuel pumps and not lying on the bottom of the bucket and give the fuel pumps more support.
2) Your discharge/return fitting angles look like it will promote strain when you attach your lines. The PTFE are not as flexible as the braided and pretty much have to be routed with very little strain on those fittings. You risk the bulkhead turning and loosening the nut on the underside. Or worse, you crack the fuel module.
3) The 45 degree fitting on the discharge of the jet pump looks like it will interfere when the fuel module is compressed.
4) Crimp butt connectors...I have a personal thing against them. They are applicable/suitable for this but I stay away when at all possible. Fuel can/will wick into the lines using those connectors however it will not get past the bulkhead connector. In my experience anything submersible gets soldered and sealed - which is why I use the pricey Raychem stuff. I don't even use crimp splices of any type in car audio - everything soldered followed by shrink tube or Raychem if exposed to the elements/fluid.

All the other stuff looks pretty good so far! I hope you pinned out your electrical bulkhead connector with a continuity test and made a map. It helps when you fabricate the rest of the lines to the relay. I tested the entire system before I buttoned everything up - no DOA components etc. I like those 1/2" SS fittings - a little pricey compared to $0.75 but I'm sure the SS is lifetime stuff. I'm not knocking your choices, I go with a few of your suggestions and they have turned out pretty good so far.

Hopefully this weekend I can get a prototype for the adapter on the clutch MC and begin rough fit testing - I'm calling it the "50 cent".
 
#626 · (Edited)
1) You wrapped a worm clamp around the entire bucket to keep everything together. I used one for similar purposes but mine does not wrap the entire bottom. Instead I cut into the lower shell and routed it under the fuel pumps. This was to keep fuel under the fuel pumps and not lying on the bottom of the bucket and give the fuel pumps more support.
I didn't copy your ring clamp implementation for two reasons: first, I wanted to minimize holes in the bottom half of the bucket, since holes reduce its fuel storage capacity. Less capacity equates to less run time on the secondary pump. Second, in test-fitting the bucket, I found that lockwire and a ring clamp were not necessary to keep the pumps stationary and away from the strainers. The hose exiting the bucket, the 90° nozzle on the strainers, and the FI6PB ring clamps pointing downward maintain that spacing. On the outlet side, I actually had the opposite problem--closing the lid was impossible. Ultimately, I had to shave down several things on the underside of the lid to get it partially closed.

















In the end, I was never quite able to get that tab to close and lock, but I got really close. Closer than I was in the above picture.

As you probably recall, I wanted to eliminate the ring clamp altogether, but when I put the halves together, the pumps were so tightly jammed in there that the plastic pop taps on the perimeter of the bucket looked like they were about to explode. So I added the ring clamp to take the stress off. The pumps aren't going anywhere.

2) Your discharge/return fitting angles look like it will promote strain when you attach your lines. The PTFE are not as flexible as the braided and pretty much have to be routed with very little strain on those fittings. You risk the bulkhead turning and loosening the nut on the underside. Or worse, you crack the fuel module.
I want to try to clamp the hoses near the top of the tank. I'm worried about the dynamic loading problem introduced once you start throwing your car over hills and around corners.

Btw, the bulkhead fittings can point whichever way the hose wants. The outermost fittings can rotate 135-180 degrees, because I sanded down the plastic towers that house those spring-loaded metal struts. The underside nuts are cranked on as tight as I could make them with Permatex Permashield on the threads acting as a quasi-blue Loctite for added security.

3) The 45 degree fitting on the discharge of the jet pump looks like it will interfere when the fuel module is compressed.
I selected that fitting based on compression testing. It's close, though--and I am worried about the hose overstressing the plastic barb. I may wind up using a 60°.

4) Crimp butt connectors...I have a personal thing against them. They are applicable/suitable for this but I stay away when at all possible. Fuel can/will wick into the lines using those connectors however it will not get past the bulkhead connector. In my experience anything submersible gets soldered and sealed - which is why I use the pricey Raychem stuff. I don't even use crimp splices of any type in car audio - everything soldered followed by shrink tube or Raychem if exposed to the elements/fluid.
Thanks for mentioning that! I can't believe I forgot about the Raychem I bought (on your recommendation!). :cookoo: Before I install the bucket, I'll replace the crimp connectors with soldered joints and seal them with Raychem.

All the other stuff looks pretty good so far! I hope you pinned out your electrical bulkhead connector with a continuity test and made a map. It helps when you fabricate the rest of the lines to the relay. I tested the entire system before I buttoned everything up - no DOA components etc. I like those 1/2" SS fittings - a little pricey compared to $0.75 but I'm sure the SS is lifetime stuff. I'm not knocking your choices, I go with a few of your suggestions and they have turned out pretty good so far.
It's on my to-do list. I still have $600 worth of stuff to buy for the fuel system, so it's not going together anytime soon.

There's the Aeromotive 13110 regulator, the JS Master Terminal Tool Kit, and crimpers for 22-1/0 AWG. I also need two 20' lengths of 1/0 AWG welding cable, assorted hardware, and a couple of Bussman CB187F Type III weatherproof circuit breakers (screw fuses) to set up a power distribution terminal in the back seat (also covers me for the audio system). The product line that I mentioned comes in everything from 25-150 amp ratings. FWIW, I've also been stocking up on 12' lengths of 1.5" diameter Thermo-Tec Express Sleeve. I don't want to leave anything to chance.

Hopefully this weekend I can get a prototype for the adapter on the clutch MC and begin rough fit testing - I'm calling it the "50 cent".
This weekend, I'm hoping to install the Geforce 9" IRS, but it's going to be a challenge because my welder--a guy with 30+ years of experience--had a heart attack last weekend and is on strict orders not to do any work. So I'm scrambling. Fortunately, I pulled an all-nighter at work and already have 47 hours on the clock (yeah, I'm salaried, but they still track that). If I'm lucky, I'll have the subframe down and depopulated tonight, and I'll be prepping the metal plates for welding tomorrow. If all goes according to plan (which it won't), I should be done by Saturday. So I have one day of schedule margin. :thumbsup:
 
#633 ·
If you get a chance, take some pics of the McLeod slave. I would be interested seeing all the end fittings and hose length. I understand one end is a bleeder but curious of the adapter end fitting that mates to the master cylinder. A good comparison of the old slave and new slave would be helpful.
 
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