1) You wrapped a worm clamp around the entire bucket to keep everything together. I used one for similar purposes but mine does not wrap the entire bottom. Instead I cut into the lower shell and routed it under the fuel pumps. This was to keep fuel under the fuel pumps and not lying on the bottom of the bucket and give the fuel pumps more support.
I didn't copy your ring clamp implementation for two reasons: first, I wanted to minimize holes in the bottom half of the bucket, since holes reduce its fuel storage capacity. Less capacity equates to less run time on the secondary pump. Second, in test-fitting the bucket, I found that lockwire and a ring clamp were not necessary to keep the pumps stationary and away from the strainers. The hose exiting the bucket, the 90° nozzle on the strainers, and the FI6PB ring clamps pointing downward maintain that spacing. On the outlet side, I actually had the opposite problem--closing the lid was impossible. Ultimately, I had to shave down several things on the underside of the lid to get it partially closed.
In the end, I was never quite able to get that tab to close and lock, but I got really close. Closer than I was in the above picture.
As you probably recall, I wanted to eliminate the ring clamp altogether, but when I put the halves together, the pumps were so tightly jammed in there that the plastic pop taps on the perimeter of the bucket looked like they were about to explode. So I added the ring clamp to take the stress off. The pumps aren't going anywhere.
2) Your discharge/return fitting angles look like it will promote strain when you attach your lines. The PTFE are not as flexible as the braided and pretty much have to be routed with very little strain on those fittings. You risk the bulkhead turning and loosening the nut on the underside. Or worse, you crack the fuel module.
I want to try to clamp the hoses near the top of the tank. I'm worried about the dynamic loading problem introduced once you start throwing your car over hills and around corners.
Btw, the bulkhead fittings can point whichever way the hose wants. The outermost fittings can rotate 135-180 degrees, because I sanded down the plastic towers that house those spring-loaded metal struts. The underside nuts are cranked on as tight as I could make them with Permatex Permashield on the threads acting as a quasi-blue Loctite for added security.
3) The 45 degree fitting on the discharge of the jet pump looks like it will interfere when the fuel module is compressed.
I selected that fitting based on compression testing. It's close, though--and I am worried about the hose overstressing the plastic barb. I may wind up using a 60°.
4) Crimp butt connectors...I have a personal thing against them. They are applicable/suitable for this but I stay away when at all possible. Fuel can/will wick into the lines using those connectors however it will not get past the bulkhead connector. In my experience anything submersible gets soldered and sealed - which is why I use the pricey Raychem stuff. I don't even use crimp splices of any type in car audio - everything soldered followed by shrink tube or Raychem if exposed to the elements/fluid.
Thanks for mentioning that! I can't believe I forgot about the Raychem I bought (on your recommendation!). :cookoo: Before I install the bucket, I'll replace the crimp connectors with soldered joints and seal them with Raychem.
All the other stuff looks pretty good so far! I hope you pinned out your electrical bulkhead connector with a continuity test and made a map. It helps when you fabricate the rest of the lines to the relay. I tested the entire system before I buttoned everything up - no DOA components etc. I like those 1/2" SS fittings - a little pricey compared to $0.75 but I'm sure the SS is lifetime stuff. I'm not knocking your choices, I go with a few of your suggestions and they have turned out pretty good so far.
It's on my to-do list. I still have $600 worth of stuff to buy for the fuel system, so it's not going together anytime soon.
There's the Aeromotive 13110 regulator, the JS Master Terminal Tool Kit, and crimpers for 22-1/0 AWG. I also need
two 20' lengths of 1/0 AWG welding cable, assorted hardware, and a couple of
Bussman CB187F Type III weatherproof circuit breakers (screw fuses) to set up a power distribution terminal in the back seat (also covers me for the audio system). The product line that I mentioned
comes in everything from 25-150 amp ratings. FWIW, I've also been stocking up on 12' lengths of 1.5" diameter Thermo-Tec Express Sleeve. I don't want to leave anything to chance.
Hopefully this weekend I can get a prototype for the adapter on the clutch MC and begin rough fit testing - I'm calling it the "50 cent".
This weekend, I'm hoping to install the Geforce 9" IRS, but it's going to be a challenge because my welder--a guy with 30+ years of experience--had a heart attack last weekend and is on strict orders not to do any work. So I'm scrambling. Fortunately, I pulled an all-nighter at work and already have 47 hours on the clock (yeah, I'm salaried, but they still track that). If I'm lucky, I'll have the subframe down and depopulated tonight, and I'll be prepping the metal plates for welding tomorrow. If all goes according to plan (which it won't), I should be done by Saturday. So I have one day of schedule margin. :thumbsup: