Thanks! I finally got all the under-the-hood wired up. I soldered all the connectors.. even the crimped ones for added strength. To answer your question I used some vacuum caps that I picked up from Advance Auto and used a cheapo plastic welder and plastic welding rods from Harbor Freight. To keep the vacuum caps on there I used Goop. All that after I cut the tips off. You also have to install the fuel tank lock ring before you install the bulkhead fittings. Don't forget this detail!!!Looking good. Shame that there wasn't an easy way to strap a RTD or IC-based temperature sensor to the surface of the fuel pumps to monitor their temperature. By the way, do you remember what you used to cap the OEM bucket's ports?
That butane soldering iron is the absolute best portable I have ever used - you will not regret it! Painfully I went through several types of solder in my early days and that link I gave is the easiest stuff to work with and makes a very strong connection. Regarding the Earl's fitting, I like name brand too but Summit will nickel/dime you if/when you start to straggle fittings as you piece it all together. I used your recommendation and purchased almost all my fittings/hoses from ebay and the shipping was fast and free! I found no difference in quality over Earl's - yet.I ordered the soldering gear you recommended--I have a standard 115 VAC soldering iron, but liked the idea of a portable one. Also bought an Earl's 10AN, 90 degree bulkhead connector (AT983310ERL) to test clearance with. I believe a 90 degree fitting has a lower profile than using a straight bulkhead fitting + 90 degree adapter. There's no extra nut, as these two pictures suggest:
I like that 45 degree fitting, it looks like a perfect fit/angle for the return into the bucket when you tap that port. Regarding the hose size for the feeds, you are going to get a pressure drop no matter if it is a 5/16 or 3/8 as it enters the main fuel line of a -10 and will shortly stabilize to a nice laminar flow up to the fuel rails. Either one will be fine but I would install what is convenient. Those corrugated flex lines I used make installing the bucket much easier and it will only fit on 5/16 barb/nipple.For the return line fitting at the bucket, I picked up a 3/8" barb to 1/4" NPT 45 degree fitting and a 1/4"-18 NPT tap. For the outbound feed lines, the jury's still out. The diameter of the DW300 outlet is just a touch small for 3/8" hose, so I might run 5/16" hose. I'd really like to go 3/8" into 1/2" NPT, and from there to AN-style fittings. But the idea of trying to clamp hose that tight seems like a bad idea.
Thanks! I often wondered who was taking interest whether good/bad.First and foremost... Excellent thread with alot of real good information.
It doesn't replace the ground. It adds an additional ground that you have to provide where you see fit. I drilled and used rivet nuts for my grounds and placed them in a convenient location that has no obstructions and somewhat easy to access. Pics are in this thread...somewhere.I have a couple of questions. I'm currently having fuel pump issues and I believe you will have some insight on this since you've run thru this before.
My question is... does the Racetronix wiring kit replace the ground that is used on the stock harness, or does it simply add another ground? Or what exactly does the additional ground add-on for the racetronix apply to?
Before you start hacking away your car and buying hotwire kits, take a datalog and find out what your PWM is doing. The Pulse Width Module regulates the fuel pressure with voltage IIRC. If that is functioning properly then you may have a connection issue at the fuel module. Adding the hotwire eliminates the PWM function and the fuel pump will constantly be running at the voltage supplied...good and bad. Good if you are using a BAP and modified fuel system, BAD if you you have neither - this is debatable but the PWM regulates the fuel pressure.I believe I have a bad ground thats causing intermittent problems with starting the car. Occasionally I lose all fuel pressure, and while the car will crank and crank, it will not start. I'm hoping to troubleshoot and locate the issue. I've already had the tank dropped twice and cut an access door. I may go your route on the gasket, but I should have access to material to cut the door cover myself and possibly use aluminum tape afterwards.
While I don't think that is a bad idea you have to consider what you are gaining/losing. Eliminating the PWM by using a relay has its advantages for FI but hardly any for N/A. The DW300 will operate at a constant voltage using a hotwire but if you DO NOT USE the hotwire the DW300 will be regulated by the PWM. It gets complicated. I would not suggest for anyone to use a hotwire unless they are at high horsepower or FI because you lose the PWM which is really efficient for ~500whp - others can disagree but I'm basing that on stock pump.I'm on a budget, but after talking with Fuzzy, I plan on going with the racetronix kit, 1 dw300, and the #11 kit. I plan on picking up a used bucket and building on that. I'll be running the racetronix kit as done on here, underneath the car.
In summary, I would take a graded approach if you are N/A and add an additional ground to the fuel pump without the hotwire. If FI then definitely add the hotwire and DW300 pump. The DW300 pump I chose because it's going to be running constantly at a constant voltage and needed something "low duty" so it doesn't draw excessive current. This was strictly for running FI with high horsepower in mind with a target of ~850whp (twin pumps of course).Sorry to interrupt the thread with that. Just figured I'd ask since alot of the parts were relevant here.
Fuzzy, based on my knowledge from tuning done that I have witnessed and inquired, the CTS-V is regulated by PWM - very good regulation system for moderate HP - not sufficient for FI or high horsepower.Philistine, I didn't know that the stock pump was PWMed. My impression was that it was running at rated speed, the whole time.
Also, for what it's worth, there have been a couple of discussions on LS1Tech regarding the stock pump: while some have been able to make 500 RWHP on the stock pump, most others have seen pressure on the rail start to fall during WOT runs at 430-450 RWHP.
Assuming you're correct about the PWM, I'd argue that any CTS-V making more than 425 RWHP should have a Racetronix hotwire kit and better pump. When you look at the number of failed fuel pump connections on this platform, for cars making stock-ish power, you have to wonder whether there was any real margin in the design of the system. It seems plausible that PWM control was utilized to reduce electrical load on the system, or alternately, GM designed the power distribution system with a PWMed pump in mind. Once you make enough power to increase the duty cycle on that pump significantly, something in the system is bound to fail.
I'll search and hopefully find this.It doesn't replace the ground. It adds an additional ground that you have to provide where you see fit. I drilled and used rivet nuts for my grounds and placed them in a convenient location that has no obstructions and somewhat easy to access. Pics are in this thread...somewhere.
Before you start hacking away your car and buying hotwire kits, take a datalog and find out what your PWM is doing. The Pulse Width Module regulates the fuel pressure with voltage IIRC. If that is functioning properly then you may have a connection issue at the fuel module. Adding the hotwire eliminates the PWM function and the fuel pump will constantly be running at the voltage supplied...good and bad. Good if you are using a BAP and modified fuel system, BAD if you you have neither - this is debatable but the PWM regulates the fuel pressure.
Datalog using a livescan obdii? Seems to be intermittent so might read correctly until it decides to not start again. I'm definitely assuming this is the ground, considering I've changed the fuel pump out already and still have the same issue. How exactly would I add an additional ground to the fuel pump? Splice into the black cable at the connector or near the relay section, and run another cable to chassis with a bolt?I hope you understand what I'm suggesting...hotwire - eliminates PWM, fuel pump runs constantly. Add a ground (no hotwire) might solve your problem. Accessing those wires is a PITA to add a ground even with a trap door.
I don't plan on doing a twin setup. I think this might be a bit more reliable than what is currently going on with the car. The first time the plug to the pump was removed, it was melted at the ground connector. I have a multimeter, but again, the issue seems intermittent. I am not doing it for performance gains as much as I am for reliability and ease of future access\work. You guys definitely know more on the subject than I do.While I don't think that is a bad idea you have to consider what you are gaining/losing. Eliminating the PWM by using a relay has its advantages for FI but hardly any for N/A. The DW300 will operate at a constant voltage using a hotwire but if you DO NOT USE the hotwire the DW300 will be regulated by the PWM. It gets complicated. I would not suggest for anyone to use a hotwire unless they are at high horsepower or FI because you lose the PWM which is really efficient for ~500whp - others can disagree but I'm basing that on stock pump.
Also, based on the amount of effort it took to shift gears, it looks like you're not done bleeding yet. Also, is your exhaust ceramic coated?"These Aeromotive high-flow one-way check valves are designed to prevent back-flow with minimal pressure drop. [...] They're ideal for use when preventing drainback after the fuel pump is turned off, or when dual pumps are employed and both pumps will not always be running together."
The fuel lines can more than handle the additional pressure increase of the secondary pump. I have my suspicions regarding the increase in fuel pressure (some apparent and some more in depth) and I'll do more testing. The regulator has to be set while in operation Fuzzy - unless you have a crystal ball that tells you exactly how many turns on the stem to pre-set it.Any idea why your fuel pressure increased by almost 5 PSI when you had the second pump on? For almost two months, I've been silently pondering the question, "does adding a second pump effectively create a leak in the line?" Now I'm definitely thinking I need to buy a check valve. They come in all shapes and sizes. From the ad:
Also, based on the amount of effort it took to shift gears, it looks like you're not done bleeding yet.