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pig in slop

131K views 704 replies 43 participants last post by  philistine 
#1 · (Edited)
Weekend just isn't long enough...

 
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#311 · (Edited)
Here we go...long weekend (happy Thanksgiving, everyone)! On the to-do list:

  1. Wash car, if everything isn't frozen solid.
  2. Try Blackfire Interior Protectant assuming conditions permit (see #1 above)
  3. Remove transmission, measure pressure plate and slave clearances, and either reduce PP torque or install Tick shim behind slave
  4. Install billet shifter cup from manual first generation CTS and provide review (remember to take pictures)
  5. Try to install Hotchkis 23391375 sway bar brackets, now that you have the longer M10-1.5x65mm Class 12.9 bolts for the CTS-V that the kit didn't include.
  6. Measure and, if the length looks good, replace your old, stripped Grade 8.8 driveshaft coupler bolts with the M12-1.75x60mm Class 10.9 bolts and matching M12 hex head flange nuts.
  7. Try to re-lubricate front and rear Revshift control arm bushings using scary 18 gauge grease needles. If works, takes pictures/video and write PSA.
  8. Make measurements for 10AN and 12AN fuel hoses and check clearance on fuel door.
  9. If time permits, remove entire rear deck (plastic), remount subwoofer amplifier and JBL MS-8, and apply sound dampening treatment to entire deck. Reinstall Infinity 1062w using stepped 10" MDL ring. Take pictures.
  10. If time still permits, measure and cut treatment layers for insertion behind rear seatback. Take pictures. Install seatback for the first time in 10 months. Rejoice in the lack of road noise.
  11. Drink everything in sight.

Also, on the fuel bucket side of things, I placed orders for:


Still not certain whether I want to run one check valve inside the bucket, on the spare pump, and one outside for ease of inspection, but the availability of clearance between the top of the bucket and the fuel door will make that decision for me. The other thing that's still up in the air is how I'm going to mount the fuel regulator behind the engine. As I mentioned earlier, my plan is to run the 12AN feed line to the engine, split it, run past the engine, and then enter the fuel rails from the front. On the back of the fuel rails, there will be two 8AN lines that connect to the regulator. I want to keep these two flow paths equal in length to maintain tight control of pressure drop between the left and right fuel rails, so I'm unlikely to be able to use the mounting location you used, Philistine. However, this will make routing the boost reference line from the regulator to the Blox vacuum manifold vastly easier than if I chose to mount the regulator in front of the engine.
 
#312 ·
4. Shifter...I would spend my money on something completely different. Instead of bandaids for the shifter, why not just get rid of the entire OEM and try out 54's shifter - worth a shot. He went the extra mile for a complete replacement.

8. Fuel door...you can get some extra clearance by shimming the fuel tank. That was my next option if my -8AN didn't fit. Also, you might be able to grind away a little of the metal on the cradle - where it folds upwards. There is nothing taken away structurally by grinding away that lip where the fuel lines exit and make their journey to the manifold.

It's interesting to see a different approach with the fuel lines and hardware - a lot of problem solving to get the fuel lines optimum. Through much testing of my start-up issues, it's very clear that the factory logics for priming the fuel lines is insufficient. I have to manually prime for almost 15 seconds to get it to start 1st time. A check valve might mitigate that - that's a big might though. I don't regret my secondary pump manual switch. I'm also excited to see you purchased a Blox vacuum manifold - so funny because that was a page I borrowed from my import stuff dealing with Hondas - it works and fits perfect!

G-luck washing the car in this weather - I just hand washed mine and winter is here in Alabama. Finally stuffed my cars in my garage after I finished cleaning and painting everything in my garage - I need a bigger beer fridge.


***Edit***
That's a killer list of parts! I look at every single one of them and fill my shopping cart with the goodies I need/want to do next.
 
#313 ·
4. Shifter...I would spend my money on something completely different. Instead of bandaids for the shifter, why not just get rid of the entire OEM and try out 54's shifter - worth a shot. He went the extra mile for a complete replacement.
I purchased the CTS manual shifter assembly about two weeks before 54 made his announcement. My plans are to try this, report what I can, and then buy his shifter and do a comparison. That way, I'll have the ability to make a comparison between arguably the best conventional CTS-V short-shifter (the second generation Katech), supported by the best parts you can scrounge, and 54's work.

By the way, did you see that Second Skin audio is doing a Black Friday / Cyber Monday sale? There are a couple of different codes, including a general-purpose 20% off code. Seeing as it's hard to walk away from that site without spending $200+, it's a good time to pick up thermal/acoustic stuff for next spring.
 
#314 · (Edited)
Hey Philistine, I just reviewed the entire thread, making sure that I hadn't missed anything, and I had two additional questions:

1. Which Racetronix relay did you pick, and why? Did you get the 280-ISO or 630-ISO? I assume your other relay was just what came with the CTS-V Hotwire Kit.

2. Where did you find this 1/2" silicon line for the brake booster, and how did it fit?

 
#316 ·
Hey Philistine, I just reviewed the entire thread, making sure that I hadn't missed anything, and I had two additional questions:

1. Which Racetronix relay did you pick, and why? Did you get the 280-ISO or 630-ISO? I assume your other relay was just what came with the CTS-V Hotwire Kit.

2. Where did you find this 1/2" silicon line for the brake booster, and how did it fit?
1) I purchased the RYCS-005 - Relay Connector Kit (SPDT) 280-ISO from Racetronix. I was only going to use 16/18awg wire for the trigger and 10/12 awg for the power/ground. So that relay was a perfect fit.

2) I used VPE-20435 from Summit. It fit perfectly! I've used this hose before and love it. I used a Black Nylon 1/2in. Barbed Equal Tee Fitting from sidewindercomputers.com - yeah, from a computer store. That 'T' has barbs on there and locks in perfectly with just the right material for heat/pressure etc. You really don't need a clamp but I wanted the redundant barbed feature so it doesn't blow off...ever! I only used a small bit, I think there is a pic buried in here but just in case:

 
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#318 ·
Yeah I suppose those will work but here is why I chose mine from sidewinder..bla,bla:

Approval for Automotive Use

General Motors: GMP.PA66.062(N)
Ford: (ESA-M4D379-A&B) WSK-M4D666-A
DCX: DB41 CPN2565
Delphi: DCM5150
Other Approvals: SAEJ1639PA0172, ASTMD4066PA0181
Product Description & Info
This is a hard plastic Black Nylon 1/2" ID Barbed Equal Tee fitting. For certain applications, this part can be extremely useful to route liquid to two locations at the same time.
Standard Black Nylon Features

Anti-rotation device reduces wear caused by hose rotation on barb
Single barb design provides greater stability with both single and dual inside diameter hose
Optimum connector insertion depth is regulated by bulkhead placement
Temperature Range

Minimum Temp: -50º F
Maximum Temp: 275º F
Max Pressure: 150 psi @ 70º
 
#321 ·
I've never seen a sale on that, but typically, you can get a used one for $500 with 2 of the 8 credits used. Their licensing system is pretty effective at keeping prices up. HPTuners Pro is in my future, but probably not until after I do the engine swap. And that won't happen until the end of next year because...

I've been on the phone with Chris @ G-Force Engineering, pestering him with questions about the Strange Engineering S-Trac differential, gear ratios, driveshaft critical speeds, ports for external coolers, and so on. I also wanted to try the Paypal no interest 6-month financing option, which turns out to be a little weirder than I thought--despite having spent over $25,000 over the past 12 years with Paypal and eBay, their starting credit line is a flat $1,500 and they take any attempts to purchase more than that as a credit application for that amount. I was able to get to the shipping screen with no problems, but the G-Force website is goofed up--they have no viable shipping options. And because they're closed over the weekend, it's impossible to order anything from them and receive their Black Friday pricing.

Anyway, I've pretty much settled on the S-Trac package (helical cut gears) with a 3.50 ratio, 4.0" aluminum driveshaft, Pro-Iron case, and two ports for an external cooler. I thought the carbon fiber driveshaft would be the best option here, but after talking to Chris, I don't think that's the case. Although the 3.75" carbon fiber driveshaft has the highest available critical speed (250+ mph), it requires a big, heavy (6 lb) CV joint on the transmission side to allow the driveshaft to plunge. Not only does that obviate any weight advantages of carbon fiber, in my mind, it may also pose clearance problems with 54's shifter. The newer 4.0" driveshaft option is lighter, has an acceptable critical speed (Chris said he'd have to ask Precision Shaft Technologies to run a critical speed calc for this length), and necks down near the transmission to provide additional clearance. Chris further stated that they (G-Force) were a little dubious of the necked design at first, but apparently they've sold a bunch on other platforms and people really like it.

Anyway, I'll probably know more on Monday if Chris gets back to me. I want those critical speed numbers before I pull the trigger, and then there's the question as to whether the Paypal thing will work. If not, then I'll re-prioritize and put the engine back at the top of the list.
 
#322 ·
Quick update: Chris and I have been going back and forth via email--Chris fixed the issues with the CTS-V product page. Shipping should work now. Now I have to figure out the Paypal thing. Or decide which of the big three (engine, transmission, rear end) I'm going to prioritize this spring.
 
#323 ·
I would do the differential - it will feel like a new car and never drive like OEM ever again. Took the 'V' to a local custom exhaust/weld expert to have my SW exhaust cat-back inspected. He's seen many platforms over the decades and said 3" pipes on the V1 was a poor choice for ground clearance. Also very few shops have 3" mandrel benders and the metal is too thin to swell - promotes cracking.

Just something to think about when you have to fit some pipes around that enormous 9".
 
#325 ·
I got it inspected to see if any modifications should be made - none were recommended. Since my 'V' is lowered ground clearance is an issue. The trans-cross brace is where the issue lies. That is where speed bumps and other obstructions interfere. In order to avoid contact with the trans-cross brace, I had to give up some valuable clearance. It is a domino-effect...After wrestling the pipes, the clearance was made but the resonator hangs down a bit further. You have to consider the larger diameter of the driveshaft as well.

Taken all this into account, in the end, it would tight with a 2.5" exhaust but could easily be modified for tighter clearance. The 3" pipes magnify the clearance issues - top and bottom. The only good thing is the SW pipes clear the 8.8" with perfection.

I pretty much just listened to the guy and he wasn't impressed with the chassis...in a strong southern dialect "sum'n like thiis belongs on a truck or old muscle car, you ain't gain'n shit for horsepower with that small block Chevy under the hood. Hell a 2.5" breaths just fine, better off selling this aftermarket and put'n the old one back on since you like it so low to the ground".

Anyways, he said he can get a much better sound with different mufflers, and x-pipe but won't modify the 3" stuff. I don't recall the name of mufflers he mentioned - I think it started with an 'L'. Whatever it was, he favored it over the Borla.
 
#326 ·
He sounds like a real charmer. Considering the fact that Summit Racing doesn't stock a single brand starting with a "L," I'm not so sure I'd take anything he said to the bank. For me, the limiting factor has always been the outer diameter of my high-flow cats (roughly 4"). I've scraped them a few times going over bigger speed bumps in the past, but did no damage.
 
#330 ·
I have some nice rub marks on my 3" pipes where it was hugging the trans-cross member - that's as high as it will go and the speed bumps flattened a little section. I have the complete SW header back exhaust. I have a thread somewhere on this forum where the fitment was so bad I had to send a piece back to SW - that was almost 2 yrs ago.

If I had to do it over again, either custom or B&B with x-pipe. Once I figure out how i'm going FI, the exhaust is going up for sale.

***Edit***
Here is the thread where I installed it etc.
http://www.cadillacforums.com/forum...stainless-works-exhaust-install-2004-cts.html

So much has changed with aftermarket stuffs...doesn't fit quite as good.
 
#334 ·
custom is the way to go if you can have a fabricator do it. Pretty sure you will have issues with all the kits, if you have any modifications to the cradle or differential. I waited until i had everything mounted up before I had the exhaust installed. The fabricator that did mine, used to be the lead fabricator at B&B, so I feel pretty lucky.
 
#338 ·
Check one of your local welding supply retailers, all of them in our area have a rental fleet of welders, plasma cutters, torch outfits, etc. Rent an auto darkening helmet too.

Look in to a 110 volt wire feed. Before you get good at it, you will hate stick welding. Especially on relatively thin material like the cradle is made of. A 110 wire feed will be you new favorite toy.

A 4-1/2" angle grinder with a cut-off blade will make nice clean cuts in that cradle too.
 
#340 ·
Arc welding is a bit of an art and a great skill to have. I agree though, I doubt the cradle needs anything more than a wire weld. Flux welds are dirtier from the flux popping all over the area, but they generally create a stronger weld. MIG welding on the whole doesn't penetrate the material quite as deeply, but makes a much cleaner weld. MIG is much easier if you're painting. Since it looks like you're a big spender anyway, it may be worthwhile going with MIG since you'll likely want to paint the welds once you're done.
 
#341 ·
Do your homework. In the world of welders, buying anything other than a Miller or Lincoln is like buying a Kia when looking for a car. It is extremely difficult to wear out a welder. A well used and abused Miller/Lincoln would be a better machine than............any other "brand". I am taking in to account the resale, parts availability for the machine itself, for consumables (tips, gun liners) also most of the "off brand" welders are not set up for/with a gas regulator in order to run solid wire, not just flux-core.

Ask the welding supply retailer if they have any rental fleet welders for sale.
 
#343 ·
Don't overlook Hobart as a bang for the buck option when it comes to a mig machine. I have had really good luck with them in the past. All told, my favorite machine is an older Miller 210. Also this time of year check around your local dealers and ask for refurbs since many of the companies are switching out the 2013 models for the 2014's at most of the sponsored NASCAR and other race shops.

Also, with learning how to weld. You can watch videos and read charts on proper settings all day long, but the only thing that will make you get better at this is practice. Go ask to pick through the trash/scrap pile at your local metal/machine shop and see what theyll give you for free. A wire brush attachment or flapdisk for your grinder will be your best friend when it comes to material prep before laying a bead.
 
#344 ·
Damn, I researched Miller welding machines and techniques for about 2 hrs today. I've known a lot of welders and it is definitely an art - lost art in my current area. I got a buddy that has been hounding me to pick it up and he would teach me.

Anyways, finally worked out all the bugs with the driveline. The CS 8.8" 2 piece driveshaft is pretty much bolt on but still needed some alignment. Of course that meant dropping my exhaust AGAIN!!!! DAMMIT! I woke up late and drove a crappy rattle trap all the way to work and nearly chipped a tooth. I finally got it all together but had to trim a few sections. WTH, take it to an exhaust shop only to find I could get it better myself. It was a meticulous 5 hr wrestling match with a block of wood, 5 lb hammer, rubber mallet, hacksaw, blowtorch, half a bottle of anti-seize, impact tools, several diatribes and finally a 6 pack of beer after a friggin perfect alignment and successful quiet drive.

This tells me that nobody gives a s*it more than the owner with an eye for perfection.
 
#345 ·
This tells me that nobody gives a s*it more than the owner with an eye for perfection.
Exactly right. Someone could paint my car five different ways, and I would still be able to pick it out of a lot full of CTS-Vs. If you want it done right, do it yourself, unless you're made of money--in which case you can probably pay someone a small fortune to care as much as you do.
 
#346 ·
Glad to hear you got it though. Had to trim a few sections of what? Sounds like a exhaust shop to stay away from. An old time rule is one finger of clearance from side to side and a bit more for the length. Exhaust systems grow more than you think as they warm up.

The "welding industry" is a very strange and a "soon to be in a world of sh!t" situation. It's a trade that will never/can't go out of style as long as the world likes to use metal to build products. Peer-ee-ud. It's kind of a frustration of mine. Out of six high schools in this area, only one has any resemblance of a welding class offered and it is basic. When I was in school, graduated in '84, before the internet, all the schools had the funding to support the industrial arts. Now they only have the money to teach keyboarding, computer networking, programing (software), hardware, computer applications (how to use Microsoft products), robotics, blah blah blah.

This is how close this topic touches my life. The building next to ours (20 feet) is a private welding school. The public school system (State of Oregon) has no money to teach welding at any level, but the State of Oregon has the money to pay more money to a private facility to teach people on unemployment to be cross trained in welding so they can fill the jobs that employers are struggling to fill.

This is how bad it has become. Before a person can apply to some of the big shops around here for a welder/fabricator position they must be pre-qualified by a third party company to make sure they have the basic skills required for the position they are applying for. The shops are tired of wasting their time talking to people with restaurant and other non-related experience. People out there are desperate, they apply for jobs they know nothing about...welding/fabrication is one of them. The schools in the USA, for the most part stopped teaching kids how to work with their hands, it is beginning to bite us in the.....


Sorry for the Soap Box session. I think I'll go burn some wire. :rock:
 
#348 · (Edited)
Glad to hear you got it though. Had to trim a few sections of what? Sounds like a exhaust shop to stay away from. An old time rule is one finger of clearance from side to side and a bit more for the length. Exhaust systems grow more than you think as they warm up.
I had to trim a few sections of the 3" SW pipes to fit it around the new 8.8 differential. I also had to shim the carrier bearing mounting bracket to get it properly aligned - minor task. I have a 'finger' of clearance on the driver side of the differential and a lot more on the passenger side. I did some spirited driving and no rattles - life is good!

I think my power steering system sprung a leak somewhere. I'm getting a small puddle around the boot on the driver side. I had it on ramps but couldn't see any ruptured lines, it pools up on the lower control arm just around the protective boot - grrr! I also have the infamous wet crud small leak on the power steering line:


photo from LS1tech

Looks like I got some investigation to do. It's a good time to install my Fluidyne power steering cooler, replace the power steering lines while I try to find out how to fix my leak.



***Edit***

I have a torn boot from my driver side inner tie rod - looks to be power steering fluid fully saturated inside. I believe inside that boot should be free of fluid. I guess this means I have to replace my steering rack - damn!
 
#349 ·
I guess now with my radiator out...


So I could gain access to the power steering pump:


Because my steering rack took a s*it and decided to replace everything...


Gives me plenty of time to finally install my ATI SuperDamper.


I really didn't want to go on a shopping spree for car parts this month...:bigroll:
 
#350 ·
let me know how pinning the crank goes - are you just going with one pin or did you have the hub machined for two?

what's Turn One charging you for the steering rack rebuild?
 
#351 ·
I'm planning on just one pin. It's also a great time for that Katech timing chain and hv oil pump - not sure of the investment on that just yet.

Turn One is charging $200 for a complete rebuild and dyno testing. I also asked them if they would rebuild my ps pump as well - waiting on their reply. Jeff said installing a larger ps cooler was definitely a step in the right direction.
 
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