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2004-2007 Cadillac CTS-V Performance Mods Discussion, pig in slop in Cadillac CTS-V Series Forum - 2004 - 2007; A random installation tip: to straighten out power cable and stainless steel hoses (or to get them to turn sharply ...
  1. #661
    FuzzyLogic is offline Banned
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    Re: pig in slop

    A random installation tip: to straighten out power cable and stainless steel hoses (or to get them to turn sharply and stay like that), briefly hit the cable or hose with a heat gun and work it in the direction you want it to go.

    Cables and hoses are wound onto a reel right after manufacture--sometimes when they're still warm. This is why they often have a "taken a form" by the time you receive them. Some people seem to struggle to work around that, not realizing that a couple of seconds worth of work can render them straight again.

  2. #662
    ctsv247 is offline Cadillac Owners Enthusiast
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    Re: pig in slop

    Sidenote...I work as a contractor in an automotive assembly plant and all the main wiring harnesses are slightly "cooked" in an oven immediately prior to installation. One of their assembly workshop videos suggest that the car has 550,000 electrical connections...could be true I guess if you consider all of the circuit board connections in with this but that is a staggering number.

  3. #663
    FuzzyLogic is offline Banned
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    Re: pig in slop

    I updated an earlier post to correct a mistake. Call it a hazard of sleep deprivation.

    The stock 82.20" belt length (e.g. Goodyear 4060822 Gatorback) works with the KRC pump and 6.5" pulley.

    With it installed, the automatic belt tensioner will be at 50% travel.

  4. #664
    FuzzyLogic is offline Banned
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    Re: pig in slop

    Quick update, showing preliminary stainless steel line installation and thermal wrap.

    Still waiting for the additional fittings so that I can plumb the return to the cooler, and from there, to the PS-101. Right now, the area around the power steering pump is significantly more open than it was before. It's easy to see the rack fittings from the above, for instance.


    Measuring lines and preparing to wrap


    The blue fitting will be going away


    Lines wrapped, preparing to mark and cut wrapping


    Bottom view of wrap

  5. #665
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    jclayc is offline Cadillac Owners Fanatic
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    Re: pig in slop

    the power steering pump work is looking good! I'm interested in seeing how this turns out

  6. #666
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    Re: pig in slop

    Fuzzy, what feed and return lines are you using? PTFE I assume. Is the pressure from the system suitable for the lines and end fittings? Having custom lines fabbed up has crossed my mind once the length has been determined. I believe the fabbed 'crimp' hose lines have a higher pressure rating than the DIY assembled hose lines.

  7. #667
    FuzzyLogic is offline Banned
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    Re: pig in slop

    I'm using Russell Powerflex (2500 PSI, PTFE core, 308 stainless steel) lines with their Endura fittings, which were designed for power steering and brake systems.

    As far as I know, these are the only traditional AN hose products that will survive in a power steering application.

    The only non-crimped alternative to Powerflex/Endura that I know of is the Aeroquip AQP system.

  8. #668
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    Re: pig in slop

    Quote Originally Posted by FuzzyLogic View Post
    I'm using Russell Powerflex (2500 PSI, PTFE core, 308 stainless steel) lines with their Endura fittings, which were designed for power steering and brake systems.

    As far as I know, these are the only traditional AN hose products that will survive in a power steering application.

    The only non-crimped alternative to Powerflex/Endura that I know of is the Aeroquip AQP system.
    I'm wondering if you pave the way for others with properly running the lines and measuring the lengths if the price could drop by having them pre-fabbed and crimped. Any cost benefit to that? Personally, I like running my own lines so thanks for the references.

  9. #669
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    Re: pig in slop

    See attached.

  10. #670
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    Re: pig in slop

    Quote Originally Posted by darkman View Post
    See attached.
    Thanks Mike! You wouldn't happen to know how the rocker panels come off, would you?

  11. #671
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    Re: pig in slop

    See attached.

  12. #672
    FuzzyLogic is offline Banned
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    Re: pig in slop

    I thought I'd drop in and write a quick post regarding the Hotchkiss 23391375 sway bar brackets for use with very stiff sway bars (e.g. solid 1.375" Addco bars). I thought I mentioned these before, but after receiving a PM about this, I guess not.



    Be forewarned: these brackets are prohibitively expensive [$140]. Having bent a few sets of $25 Energy Suspension brackets, however, I count myself among the group that feels the cost of 7075-T651 aluminum is justified.

    Before I go further, I just want to clarify: these are NOT a necessity if you simply want to install Whiteline KLL135 end link locks--the Energy Suspension 9-5173R is just barely tall enough to support their full range of motion, as shown below. Yes, the Hotchkis brackets sit slightly taller, but that shouldn't be enough reason to buy them.



    For those of you who are wondering what I'm talking about, end link locks are simply devices that prevent your sway bars from sliding side-to-side. Although the venerable Hotchkis HSS-2280 sway bar kit features welded tabs that perform this function, the Addco bars do not come equipped with a locking mechanism. Therefore, if you have Addco bars, you'll want to get a KLL135 for the front bar (as mentioned above), and a KLL127 for the rear bar.

    Based on the following photos, check out how much my Addco bars slid without the locks. Notice how much of each bar has been cleaned by the unwanted, back-and-forth motion:


    Addco 2290 (front) sway bar side-to-side travel, sans Whiteline KLL135 lateral locks


    Addco 2289 (rear) sway bar side-to-side travel, sans Whiteline KLL127 lateral locks

    If you want to upgrade to the Hotchkis brackets on the front, you'll need the following three things:
    1. Two Hotchkis 16810288 stand-offs from the HSS-2280 CTS-V sway bar kit. They're the rectangular blocks in the following picture:



      They cost about $5 apiece, and can be ordered by calling Hotchkis and telling them that you need replacements for your HSS-2280 kit. Don't forget to order two. Their purpose is to level out the stepped sway bar mounting locations that the CTS-V has in the front, permitting you to use any universal sway bar bracket you want.
    2. Two M10x1.5-65mm Class 12.9 socket head cap screws. Amazon sells a pair of them for $11 here. As you can probably surmise via the picture below, the M10 fasteners that Hotchkis provides are too short to pass through the stand-offs.

    3. A decent 13/32" (10.3188mm) drill bit to enlarge two of the washers that Hotchkis provides and two of the slots in the brackets. This is necessary, since the unthreaded portions of those M10x1.5-65mm screws are very slightly wider than the holes/slots they have to pass through. Personally, I used this cobalt 13/32" drill bit to enlarge the holes/slots. You can see the (slight) difference before/after in the above picture--the washer on the left was modified and the one on the right is normal size.


      A pair of the Hotchkis washers, after being enlarged slightly


      I passed one of the M10 bolts through both of the modified washers to show how nicely they fit

    Hope this helps!

  13. #673
    ctsv247 is offline Cadillac Owners Enthusiast
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    Re: pig in slop

    nice info...appreciate the pics

  14. #674
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  15. #675
    ctsv247 is offline Cadillac Owners Enthusiast
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    Re: pig in slop

    There is a lot of good information on a lot of different subjects in this thread...would it make sense to sticky this???

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