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pig in slop

131K views 704 replies 43 participants last post by  philistine 
#1 · (Edited)
Weekend just isn't long enough...

 
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#118 ·
Based on your pictures, it looks like you have one 4-way (yellow) Racetronix bulkhead connector, and the OEM connector. If you're planning on running only the level indication through the OEM connector, the primary pump through one relay and the secondary pump through the other, how are you getting power to the second pump without having a second bulkhead connector? I haven't looked into this yet, but I did buy a second Racetronix bulkhead connector with that possibility in mind.
 
#119 · (Edited)
The 4-way (yellow) bulkhead connector is good for 2 pumps...4-way = 4 wires. Each pump requires 1 power and 1 ground. So you only need 1 bulkhead connector for 2 pumps.

***Edit***

Here is the Racetronix electrical bulkhead (yellow) wiring connector and wires. The red and black from the harness is spliced to run the main pump - the red connects to the relay and the black goes to a common ground. The blue (positive) and purple (negative) connect similarly to the red (positive) and black (negative) to the other relay.


Here you can see where the wires split into 3 different paths from the relays. The 1st path holds the OEM connectors for the fuel tank level and trigger for the relay. The 2nd path holds the fuel pump power and ground. The 3rd path holds the trigger for the Hobbs pressure switch (for secondary fuel pump), and both 10awg power wires that go to either the battery or alternator.


It's a lot of custom wiring and modifications to the existing Racetronix hotwire to get the right lengths and clean install. The trigger for the Hobbs pressure switch has to be run to the intake manifold where I will be splicing into the brake booster to mount the Hobbs switch. I should be installing the pressure manifold this weekend which will give ports for boost/vacuum monitoring, Hobbs switch, and connections for wastegate and blow-off-valve.

Hope the pics help.
 
#120 · (Edited)
I was strokin' that ego marveling at the job well done when I suddenly noticed that the trailing arm part of the cradle fits exactly where I ran my fuel lines. Talk about panic, disgust, instant sober after drinking like a sailor etc.

Here is a reference pic - from Fuzzy's cradle bushing install thread.


Here are my fuel lines.


At 2am, I was like.....









But then....






I raised the cradle and it clears! - phuckin' whew!


The pic looks like it pinches but it doesn't. There is even some wiggle room with the fuel lines but barely. There is sufficient strain relief on the lines. I'm going to wrap that area to protect chafing. The cradle doesn't move with my Delrin cradle bushings so that is a little more comfort too.
 
#121 · (Edited)
I buy that. Totally agree on the wrap idea. Here are a couple of ideas:

http://www.amazon.com/Thermo-Tec-14...qid=1381701781&sr=1-2&keywords=express+sleeve
http://www.amazon.com/Thermo-Tec-14...M/ref=pd_luc_mrairec_01_01_t_lh?ie=UTF8&psc=1
http://www.amazon.com/Thermo-Tec-14...34/ref=pd_luc_gc_rec_02_03_t_lh?ie=UTF8&psc=1

On a related note, my other DW300 and the spare CTS-V bucket arrived. The door hardware looks pretty good (pictures later). Still missing the regulator, fuel rails, lines, and fittings. Still debating between -10AN and -12AN. But I can start to assemble the bucket. Question: do you know why people use ribbed hose instead of smooth-walled hose for the outlets of fuel pumps?



It makes sense to use ribbed hose on the pump inlet, since the vacuum pulled by the pump would tend to want to suck the hose flat and the ribbed design provides great crush resistance. But for pressurized applications, smooth hose should be better because it flows better. Or am I looking at your picture wrong? It's been a while since I dug into the bucket...hopefully will get to it next week.
 
#122 ·
I have some of that same exact Thermotec sleeving left over so I'm going to use that. Regarding the corrugated fuel lines, I'm going to guess because of the bend radius it provides. The black hose used in the pic I picked up at Advance Autoparts - 5/16" EFI hose.

I want to point out the horseshoe feature on the fuel bucket - it interferes no matter how you position it. I ended up "dressing" it by cutting a notch. When you shove that thing in there it compresses a lot! The new fittings interfere with the horseshoe so just keep that in mind. Do a "hand squash test" on it.
 
#123 · (Edited)
I'll keep that in mind. Here's what I'm thinking on the fuel system, starting from the outlet of the pump. What follows is intended to provide the lowest practicable flow resistance to the pumps, since a parallel pump configuration does not provide additional pump head to overcome flow resistance like a series configuration does.

  1. Immediately transition from 1/4" or 3/8" barb (not sure if will fit) to -8AN hose.
  2. Convert from two -8AN to single -12AN hose via a MagnaFuel MP-6228 Y-block, then penetrate the bulkhead. 90 degree turn and over the tank.
    OR: run both -8AN lines to separate -8AN bulkhead penetrators, and then join together to form a single -12AN line. This might be tricky, because I'd still have to fit the -10AN return from the regulator in there (three penetrations instead of two). It's a trade-off between vertical clearance and bulkhead space.
  3. Aeromotive 12310 filter to the engine bay, and then through another Y-block to the -8AN fuel rails.
  4. From the rails to the -8AN inputs on a front-mounted Aeromotive 13110 (recommended). This regulator has three -8AN inputs, one -10AN input, one -10AN return, one -4AN boost reference input, and a 1/8" NPT port for a gauge. I have no idea what the third -8AN input is for.
In the event that I run out of fuel a year or two, my contingency plan is a Kenne Bell Dual Boost-A-Pump ($460) to raise pump voltage to 17.5 VDC under load. According to the DW300 tech sheet, each pump should put out 275 LPH @ 13.5 VDC (a zero flow restriction figure, obviously) and a whopping 395 LPH at 18 VDC.
 
#124 ·
1. The barbs I used were 5/16" inside diameter. I used the tri-hole air fitting commonly used on MightyMouse's fuel upgrades and Frostbites. Just plugged the 3rd hole since not using it. I used that particular fitting because of the low footprint since the bucket design is not a hangar style and since the bucket compresses so much. The corrugated hose pieces will not fit on anything larger than a 5/16" barb.

2. Again, that bucket barely fits with just stock fittings. If you increase the diameter of the hose in and around the bucket, you will encounter fitment issues trying to squeeze that bucket in the tank. I could not fit the bucket in there with the EFI hose attached to the return port. I had to disconnect then reattach it while the bucket was in the tank - major PITA! The larger hose diameter interfered.

3/4. Interesting set-up. Feeding both sides at the same time is an optimal setup. I thought about doing it but opted for something with a cleaner look. I don't know how much benefit you'll get from that arrangement based on any experience...in other words, real life feedback from builds that use that particular set-up.

I know you're worried about flow and elbows give restrictions etc. but high flow long radius elbows work just fine. Just let the regulator do the work. The pumps are more than capable supplying -8AN hose size sufficiently to the rails with a few elbows in there - pressure, velocity and volume will equalize for high horsepower demands.

Personally, I would go with the smallest diameter fuel supply/return hose that I could get away with for high horsepower demands then work backwards. I would suggest a couple of washers when bolting up the fuel tank to give a little more clearance as the fuel lines exit and make their journey to the fuel rails. When it comes to SS fuel lines, I've heard more cases where people start out using it only to abandon it because they lose the fight trying to route it to the engine compartment. I had to run the fuel lines three times, 1st - to get the proper length and make the cuts and fittings, 2nd - to dry fit and mark placement of Adel clamps, 3rd - final install with heatshield wrap etc. The required work was the easy part...figuring out stuff took the longest time as you explore your options and order more parts.

1. Had a week delay when I realized I needed a 90 degree return fitting on the regulator. This was to keep the line away from the headers. I didn't notice it till I found a better path and decided no compromises.
2. Another delay when I noticed I needed heat shielding around the headers as it makes it way to the engine compartment - another order.
3. Another delay ordering ring terminals, flex loom and crimpers etc. when I was customizing my relay hotwires.
4. Another delay ordering a rivet nut set when I decided not to use self tapping metal screws for mounting the fuel lines, and relays.

Those are minor but ordering parts suck when your car is torn apart and you just wasted a weekend because you encountered unknowns. It would have been nice to get a self-contained kit complete with instructions so you could make a list of tools that you might need.
 
#125 ·
2. Again, that bucket barely fits with just stock fittings. If you increase the diameter of the hose in and around the bucket, you will encounter fitment issues trying to squeeze that bucket in the tank. I could not fit the bucket in there with the EFI hose attached to the return port. I had to disconnect then reattach it while the bucket was in the tank - major PITA! The larger hose diameter interfered.
Based on your pictures, I understand why the mechanical interference was there. In this picture, how close are you to the bend radius of the hose? It looks like you tapped the port where the OEM regulator used to be. Did you consider using a larger diameter hose and just clamping it over the plastic port? Or, if you were set on a barbed fitting, why not a pair of 45 degree fittings? I'm guessing they just weren't what you had on hand.



Before I forget again: is there a functional difference between the black, -6AN, 90 degree return fitting and the blue, -8AN, 90 degree feed line fitting? Size differences aside. It looks like they're both finishing their turns at the same distance below the bucket. That leads me to believe that the return fitting has a larger bend radius, but I could be wrong. It looks like it might have a little straight section before bending.

3/4. Interesting set-up. Feeding both sides at the same time is an optimal setup. I thought about doing it but opted for something with a cleaner look. I don't know how much benefit you'll get from that arrangement based on any experience...in other words, real life feedback from builds that use that particular set-up.
AFAIK, having the regulator at the front of the fuel rails ensures that, should you see a pressure drop between the rear-most and front-most injectors (which you might under WOT), you err on the side of dumping too much fuel into the rear-most cylinders instead of too little. Should make the car easier to tune--especially later in the game when I start working on the 3.3/4.0L Whipple build.[/quote]

I had to run the fuel lines three times, 1st - to get the proper length and make the cuts and fittings, 2nd - to dry fit and mark placement of Adel clamps, 3rd - final install with heatshield wrap etc. The required work was the easy part...figuring out stuff took the longest time as you explore your options and order more parts.
Amazon Prime FTW. But I understand where you're coming from--I've had whole projects held up for a week because I was missing $5 worth of stuff. Over the last few weeks, I've been ordering parts and beginning to mock things up in my apartment (since I don't have a nice garage like you--thankfully no wife). It's going to be very cold when I install this thing--this morning it was 43F.

Anyway, I need to get back out there--the transmission is out and I washed down the inside of the tunnel in preparation for the head shield/sound damper. Also installing a new pilot bearing and slave.
 
#128 ·
That's a pretty good list of power mods and those links are great! I need to get more info on that TR6060 internal swap. I did the shifter bandaids based on Cadzilla's thread and your impressions after you did them. I think the CS 8.8" is better suited for sub-1000 rwhp and the street but they are too close in price now to pass up bragging rights on having a 9" shoved under there.

Sorry to knock positive displacement super chargers e.g. roots style etc. but they are still prone to belt slippage and heat soak. Those things are always back in a shop getting the kinks out. I have them on my list but the top 2 are Procharger (still prone to belt slippage) or twin turbo. Luckily not far where I live there is a shop that does custom turbos over in ricer territory and my buddy just did 2 of his supras and his gtr and puts out stupid HP. I brought my s2k out there and I was on the low end with 550rwhp. My neighbor just did twin turbos on his Challenger frankenstein build - that was after a KenneBell SC blew his stock 5.7 due to a spun bearing - with turbo lag he's at 600rwhp briefly then climbs a short mountain to over 1000rwhp. My point is that in my experience SC's are a stepping stone to turbos.

Something else to think about is the other benefit of a turbo set-up...you can control the boost and have multiple tunes. I have 4 main tunes with my s2k and I daily drive with 400rwhp and do a boost by gear - this was to tame it for the street. When I take it to the strip, I have launch control 2-step, quick spool and shove 25psi boost down its throat.

On a side note, the last time I took the V to auto-x, my wife beat me with her FRS by 5 seconds, FAWK! Which is a large reason this thread was born.
 
#129 · (Edited)
The 9" isn't not about bragging rights. You need to need the features of the kit--otherwise you're adding additional weight and parasitic losses for nothing. For my build, I feel that I need the 1000 HP axles included with the G-Force kit, and the additional traction offered by the Strange S-Trac differential.

I understand what you're saying about the challenges inherent to positive displacement superchargers, but I've heard just as many people complain about the reliability of turbochargers. Personally, I want area under the curve and sustained boost capability. I've got a couple of ideas (including the use of a phenolic spacer and an insane cooling system) that should negate most of the traditional problems associated with superchargers. Check this out (if it starts you out at the beginning, skip to 0:50):





From the moment that car crests 3250 RPM, he's playing with a nice, predictable 700-800 RWTQ all the way up to 7200 RPM. That car has ported heads, cam, 10:1 SCR, 1-7/8" Kooks headers, and 3" exhaust. Full specs here.

Can you list the things you've done during this build? I'm pretty sure you've thrown the odds vs. your wife in your favor, strongly, but I could tell you better if I wasn't guessing.
 
#130 · (Edited)
This thread has the following excluding cosmetic stuffs:

1) CS 8.8 kit with upgraded axles
2) Katech LS9X clutch with 12 lb flywheel
3) Twin DW300 fuel pumps, -8AN supply, -6AN return
4) Holley fuel rails, filter, and regulator
5) Two hotwire relays, one on a hobbs switch set for 2psi boost
6) Blox vacuum manifold spliced into the brake booster
7) CS trailing arms
8) DRT Centric rotors w/stock Brembo pads
9) ATI Superdamper
10) Banski spherical RSM
11) Shifter bandaids w/Tick bleeder

Things I already have installed:

a) KW V3 non modified springs
b)Hotchkis sways
c)Delrin cradle bushings
d)Stainless Works 3" headerback exhaust
e) Alradco radiator
f) SS brake lines
g) Katech shifter
h) Z06 end links

That is about as much I can recite atm. I have a spreadsheet on my other build, way too much crap to list as it is murdered (different platform). You will notice that I have not dug into the block because the LS6 is long in the tooth and out of production - not worthy of heavy investment. I also haven't touched the air intake because that will depend on FI. Her car (FRS) takes the corners like my s2k and she bounces off the rev limiter and hooks perfectly. I'm like a wild frat-boy all over the place fish-tailing just missing the cones. I make good time in the slaloms.

The V with Stainless Works headerback exhaust, click pic for video:


Pathetic:


Not too interesting but this was a pull that produced 478 rwhp at the wheels before I upgraded injectors and fuel pump on the s2k, click pic for video:


This is what I built over last winter:


This is the only high HP sheet I have, the others show tuning for the street. It peeked at 550 but I don't have that datasheet in my library. The limiting factor is the exhaust manifold and introduces knock after the 550 hump with 93 pump gas.


My street tune:
 
#131 ·
1) CS 8.8 kit with upgraded axles
Significantly better traction around corners, when launching the car, and in the rain, since the OEM differential is open. No personal experience with a CTS-V with this mod, but from what everyone says, it sounds like it's a huge difference.

2) Katech LS9X clutch with 12 lb flywheel
With that lightweight flywheel, your car will rev almost twice as fast, accelerate faster, and rev-match much easier. Getting started off the line will require a deft touch, though.

3) Twin DW300 fuel pumps, -8AN supply, -6AN return
4) Holley fuel rails, filter, and regulator
5) Two hotwire relays, one on a hobbs switch set for 2psi boost
Supporting mods. As you know, no benefit until you add power.

6) Blox vacuum manifold spliced into the brake booster
No idea what that is.

7) CS trailing arms
The trailing arms themselves won't do anything for you, but the 90A bushings that come with it will help hold your alignment settings when you hit the gas and brake. When I did the 95A TiC trailing arm bushings, I noticed the difference right away.

8) DRT Centric rotors w/stock Brembo pads
I believe they're a touch heavier than stock. You probably won't notice anything, except for the slot passing frequency when you brake.

9) ATI Superdamper
A solid investment in engine longevity. I installed mine at the same time as my cam, so it's hard to say how much smoother the engine ran.

10) Banski spherical RSM
Again, no discernable difference. A good investment in the longevity of your KW Variant 3's.

11) Shifter bandaids w/Tick bleeder
Not sure which shifter bandaids you did (all of them?), but if you did the Home Depot mod, along with UUC rail bushings and the brass center linkage bushing that PISNUOFF sells, the shifter should have half the slop that it did previously. Make sure you really torque down those shifter plate bolts, and the bolts that hold the linkage to the car. If either of those bolts let go, the shifter will feel sloppy no matter how many other linkage mods you do.

Things I already have installed:

a) KW V3 non modified springs
b)Hotchkis sways
c)Delrin cradle bushings
d)Stainless Works 3" headerback exhaust
e) Alradco radiator
f) SS brake lines
g) Katech shifter
h) Z06 end links
As you already know, I recommend a set of adjustable Supra end links for the front and the rear (yes, you can use them despite the fact that you drilled out the front for the Z06 end links). Those end links will finally put an end to any worries you have about damaging your KW Variant 3 shock body, and eliminate that annoying diagonal cross between the bar and the control arm. 896 in-lb Swift springs for the rear of your KW Variant 3 kit will radically change the way the car handles. If you have an extra $250 burning a hole in your pocket, you might want to consider selling your front Hotchkis bar and upgrading to an Addco bar. It's definitely stronger than the Hotchkis bar, and assuming you get a good alignment afterwards, it should help keep your front end pinned to the road when cornering hard. Katech shifter FTW, by the way. Every time I see it, I grin. Such a nice piece.

----------

Cleaned tunnel:



I had to unbolt the driver's side header to get the bell housing out. Want to pull both headers out and rewrap them.
 
#132 ·
I did all the shifter "bandaids" including the PISNUOFF brass & Delrin bushings. Most of these mods are laying down a foundation for more power and preventative maintenance. The FRS is impressive with low speed auto-x and luckily in another class - it gets lazy in 3rd gear. The factory handling needs nothing.

The Blox vacuum manifold is nothing more than a multi-port for tapping gauges, Hobbs switch, WG, BOV etc. LG motorsports makes one but it is way out of market price and has no aesthetic appeal for under the hood ornaments.

I think I might do the Swiftsprings and the Supra endlinks - I'll wait on the front sway. I was looking at some Miata endlinks but you already did your homework on the Supra stuff.

I also had issues with the bellhousing and it shredded my headerwrap, I just re-wrapped a section in place so I didn't have to remove it. I noticed the fiberglass material was very brittle and looks like a blowtorch was taken to my Revshift MMs - they sent new ones with thermo-jackets.

The trans-tunnel looks clean! How did the install go?
 
#133 ·
The trans-tunnel looks clean! How did the install go?
Frustrated. The pilot bearing would not come out. I broke both of the slide hammer attachments trying to get it out. I also tried to remove that stuck MM bolt with a bolt extractor bit and that failed too. So I'm still running with one OEM mount and one CS mount.

The tunnel looks good, but nowhere near as nice as yours. I also wrapped the bell housing:



 
#134 ·
Thermo-Tec / Tunnel Shield II tunnel comparison:





I have no idea how you got it applied as cleanly as you did. I did two layers of DEI Thermal Tape over most of the borders. The Tunnel Shield II layer was easier to apply than the Thermo-Tec, because I could form it to the tunnel before pulling off the backing material. By the way, that backing material is the most incredibly crinkly stuff EVER. Wrapping paper has nothing on it.
 
#136 ·
Psh. Your job was basically perfect--mine is definitely serviceable, but much uglier. Most of the problems I had smoothing out the tunnel shield were associated with the Thermo-Tec layer beneath.

In retrospect, I should have folded each thermal/dampening layer into a upside-down V, with the adhesive facing upward. Once the tip of the V was perfectly aligned down the center of the transmission tunnel, then you could expand it outward.

This should make a big difference in terms of heat and noise transfer into the cabin. The whole area sounds dead as hell.
 
#139 ·
agreed - thanks for the heads up on the DEI Tunnel Shield - I installed it when my trans was out last week and it works really well (a little hard to work with but...)
 
#140 ·
By the way, the Thermo-Tec 14005 1/2" sleeve is great for protecting your remote clutch bleeder line. Highly recommended. I wish it was 18" longer, for aesthetic purposes, but it still reaches from the slave cylinder fitting all the way to the top of the engine bay. That's all you really need.

The plastic sleeving on my braided line had melted in one place where it passed within 3" of my DEI titanium-wrapped headers. I'm glad I caught this in time.
 
#142 ·
Seems anything passing by the headers is toast whether the headers are wrapped or not. I use some hi-temp flex loom in a lot of the areas doing electrical custom work and have great success using this:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005KLBOSQ/ref=oh_details_o08_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

It's so cheap, I stock up on 1/4", 3/8", 1/2". Not bad to have handy if you shred the OEM flex loom during a clutch install. Then put a few wraps of the DEI cooltape in some key areas.

I am also very curious with the driving impressions with the DEI tunnel shield and those that used a resonance barrier in conjunction with it. I only read some of the feedback on the Miata forums for those that track their cars and it greatly reduced the temperatures on those platforms the byproduct was a significantly quieter cabin - heh but that's comparing an already pretty quiet Cadillac to a noisy roadster.
 
#143 ·
I am also very curious with the driving impressions with the DEI tunnel shield and those that used a resonance barrier in conjunction with it. I only read some of the feedback on the Miata forums for those that track their cars and it greatly reduced the temperatures on those platforms the byproduct was a significantly quieter cabin - heh but that's comparing an already pretty quiet Cadillac to a noisy roadster.
My car should be back together this afternoon, and I'll give you what I can. My back seat is still out, so it's loud in there, but I have a McLeod RXT, so I should be able to gauge the effectiveness of the sound dampening via the floater rattle at idle. The only place where your impressions might not match mine are where the bellhousing comes into play--I wanted a couple of layers there because of the beforementioned twin-disc rattle characteristic.
 
#144 ·
I don't have any verifiable way to gauge whether the noise was reduced - mine's pretty loud inside with no carpet but I think it reduced noise/vibrations just a bit. Heat was my #1 concern and my tunnel (no carpet) went from too hot to comfortably touch to only a little warm.
 
#151 ·
Okay, clutch issue solved. I just needed to pump the pedal a few more times with the system buttoned up. It's a little less perfect than I'd like, but I'm going to run a quart through the system this weekend to see if I can get everything working perfectly. If I succeed, I'll do a PSA on the Earl's and Russel bleeders for your remote line and caliper nipples.

The good news is that the sound dampening / heat insulation layer works. Extremely well. It cut every sound the transmission made in half. And whereas previously I would place my hand on the shifter boot and feel heat rising from the tunnel area, after an aggressive 30 minute run, I felt nothing. The leather was at cabin ambient temperature.
 
#152 · (Edited)
The good news is that the sound dampening / heat insulation layer works. Extremely well. It cut every sound the transmission made in half. And whereas previously I would place my hand on the shifter boot and feel heat rising from the tunnel area, after an aggressive 30 minute run, I felt nothing. The leather was at cabin ambient temperature.
Awesome! I've never noticed heat rising from the tunnel area from the shifter boot though - at least not enough to bring it to my attention.

I just covered the spare tire well with the RattleTrap stuff - I have a ton of it and it worked very well on my other car cutting down drone, so can't hurt. It's the first application mitigating the resonance. I'm looking into your other suggestions Fuzz...just trying to work through the mess putting everything back together.

As far as that "shade-tree" technique removing the pilot bearing - I have no experience with it but I know about it and came to my own conclusion not to do it either. A robust slide hammer and a lot of patience would be my personal preference. I've done things others have protested such as pressing bearings by applying block of wood and hammer taps when a small amount of force is required - it's what you are comfortable doing and accepting the risks.

***Edit***
I just ordered that fender cover, man this thread has all the elements of "retail therapy".
 
#153 ·
I think the transmission tunnel can get pretty damn hot--especially if you have headers. We'll know for certain once I check that Omega strip. During my shakedown cruise at Slowhawk, I was riding shotgun and holding the HP Tuners laptop while Don drove. IIRC, my EGTs were in the 1000-1200F range. Makes me think I should shield the transmission from the cats before I consider installing a transmission oil cooler.

Another note in the sound department: the sound damper definitely cleans up the sound of the exhaust within the cabin. It's subtle, but appreciable. During my initial drive, from within the cabin, I noticed that my exhaust sounded different--cleaner/deeper--but given the number of modifications I had made, I was concentrating on testing the car and listening for any signs of installation error before it became a problem. Tonight, however, I was free to enjoy the drive and realized that what I had "heard" earlier was actually a lack of gear noise from the transmission. Don't get me wrong--my T56 is in good condition and would have been considered a quiet-running unit before. But with the damper installed, that noise was barely detectable, making it just a little easier to hear the engine and the exhaust instead.
 
#156 · (Edited)
Thanks! Had some unplanned interruptions that is causing me to split my time - Barber's Motorsports et al. I expect at least another week since my weekend if filling up fast. I've only had time to tinker late at night. I also just got an ATI super damper in and want to install that while I got stuff tore apart.

Any suggestions what to combine while installing the ATI damper?
 
#158 ·
That's a nice list of "to-do's"! Really appreciate all the info. - good stuff! I have a lot of that already. You raise a very good point...why invest in a block that you are replacing anyways. I should be replacing the block around April-June time frame. The LSX is on my mind for it's boost friendly design but will be exploring my options.
 
#159 ·
If he has time, I think that PISNUOFF can provide valuable feedback regarding engine builds. If I recall correctly, he had a Texas Speed 418 CID LS3 go south on him and responded by having a reputable engine builder construct one of the most durable, boost-ready 427 LSX short blocks I've seen. I was all gung-ho on the idea of buying an aluminum 416 CID LS3 with LSA heads until I talked to him and started to look at the different ways that aluminum and iron respond to the kind of heat associated with 18-20 PSI of boost.

If you think about it, atmospheric pressure is 14.7 PSI and you're more than doubling that in the cylinders. Assuming you hold your AFR constant, you're going to be delivering more than double the amount of fuel to each cylinder. That's hot--way hotter than your normal production engine and materials were designed to withstand. Even if you build your cooling system up to compensate, the thermal impedance of the materials between the coolant and the combustion chambers is fixed (relatively speaking); materials close to the combustion chamber will be much hotter than before and must be capable of withstanding this heat without softening, deforming, cracking, or buckling.
 
#160 ·
More pics:

Figured I'd get a rear shot after the cradle is bolted back up.


Brakes & rotors installed.


My fuel lines.




I decided to run the hotwire(s) for the fuel pump along the same path as the fuel lines. After a lot of asking around, it's very common and none have run into issues.
 
#162 ·
Thanks! My fuel line pics gets me a little exposed to critique but decided to do it anyways. It's tucked where no rubbing can occur from the road. I separated the electrical lines from the fuel lines running top & bottom and all is wrapped with Thermotec sleeving in proximity to the headers. The hotwires are secured in high temp flex loom. I used a combination of SS tie wraps and the typical plastic and used the Adel clamps for redundancy securing all the fresh lines.

I'm not in a snow state - factory coating for the underbody.
 
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