Based on your pictures, I understand why the mechanical interference was there. In this picture, how close are you to the bend radius of the hose? It looks like you tapped the port where the OEM regulator used to be. Did you consider using a larger diameter hose and just clamping it over the plastic port? Or, if you were set on a barbed fitting, why not a pair of 45 degree fittings? I'm guessing they just weren't what you had on hand.2. Again, that bucket barely fits with just stock fittings. If you increase the diameter of the hose in and around the bucket, you will encounter fitment issues trying to squeeze that bucket in the tank. I could not fit the bucket in there with the EFI hose attached to the return port. I had to disconnect then reattach it while the bucket was in the tank - major PITA! The larger hose diameter interfered.
AFAIK, having the regulator at the front of the fuel rails ensures that, should you see a pressure drop between the rear-most and front-most injectors (which you might under WOT), you err on the side of dumping too much fuel into the rear-most cylinders instead of too little. Should make the car easier to tune--especially later in the game when I start working on the 3.3/4.0L Whipple build.[/quote]3/4. Interesting set-up. Feeding both sides at the same time is an optimal setup. I thought about doing it but opted for something with a cleaner look. I don't know how much benefit you'll get from that arrangement based on any experience...in other words, real life feedback from builds that use that particular set-up.
Amazon Prime FTW. But I understand where you're coming from--I've had whole projects held up for a week because I was missing $5 worth of stuff. Over the last few weeks, I've been ordering parts and beginning to mock things up in my apartment (since I don't have a nice garage like you--thankfully no wife). It's going to be very cold when I install this thing--this morning it was 43F.I had to run the fuel lines three times, 1st - to get the proper length and make the cuts and fittings, 2nd - to dry fit and mark placement of Adel clamps, 3rd - final install with heatshield wrap etc. The required work was the easy part...figuring out stuff took the longest time as you explore your options and order more parts.
Significantly better traction around corners, when launching the car, and in the rain, since the OEM differential is open. No personal experience with a CTS-V with this mod, but from what everyone says, it sounds like it's a huge difference.1) CS 8.8 kit with upgraded axles
With that lightweight flywheel, your car will rev almost twice as fast, accelerate faster, and rev-match much easier. Getting started off the line will require a deft touch, though.2) Katech LS9X clutch with 12 lb flywheel
Supporting mods. As you know, no benefit until you add power.3) Twin DW300 fuel pumps, -8AN supply, -6AN return
4) Holley fuel rails, filter, and regulator
5) Two hotwire relays, one on a hobbs switch set for 2psi boost
No idea what that is.6) Blox vacuum manifold spliced into the brake booster
The trailing arms themselves won't do anything for you, but the 90A bushings that come with it will help hold your alignment settings when you hit the gas and brake. When I did the 95A TiC trailing arm bushings, I noticed the difference right away.7) CS trailing arms
I believe they're a touch heavier than stock. You probably won't notice anything, except for the slot passing frequency when you brake.8) DRT Centric rotors w/stock Brembo pads
A solid investment in engine longevity. I installed mine at the same time as my cam, so it's hard to say how much smoother the engine ran.9) ATI Superdamper
Again, no discernable difference. A good investment in the longevity of your KW Variant 3's.10) Banski spherical RSM
Not sure which shifter bandaids you did (all of them?), but if you did the Home Depot mod, along with UUC rail bushings and the brass center linkage bushing that PISNUOFF sells, the shifter should have half the slop that it did previously. Make sure you really torque down those shifter plate bolts, and the bolts that hold the linkage to the car. If either of those bolts let go, the shifter will feel sloppy no matter how many other linkage mods you do.11) Shifter bandaids w/Tick bleeder
As you already know, I recommend a set of adjustable Supra end links for the front and the rear (yes, you can use them despite the fact that you drilled out the front for the Z06 end links). Those end links will finally put an end to any worries you have about damaging your KW Variant 3 shock body, and eliminate that annoying diagonal cross between the bar and the control arm. 896 in-lb Swift springs for the rear of your KW Variant 3 kit will radically change the way the car handles. If you have an extra $250 burning a hole in your pocket, you might want to consider selling your front Hotchkis bar and upgrading to an Addco bar. It's definitely stronger than the Hotchkis bar, and assuming you get a good alignment afterwards, it should help keep your front end pinned to the road when cornering hard. Katech shifter FTW, by the way. Every time I see it, I grin. Such a nice piece.Things I already have installed:
a) KW V3 non modified springs
b)Hotchkis sways
c)Delrin cradle bushings
d)Stainless Works 3" headerback exhaust
e) Alradco radiator
f) SS brake lines
g) Katech shifter
h) Z06 end links
Frustrated. The pilot bearing would not come out. I broke both of the slide hammer attachments trying to get it out. I also tried to remove that stuck MM bolt with a bolt extractor bit and that failed too. So I'm still running with one OEM mount and one CS mount.The trans-tunnel looks clean! How did the install go?
My car should be back together this afternoon, and I'll give you what I can. My back seat is still out, so it's loud in there, but I have a McLeod RXT, so I should be able to gauge the effectiveness of the sound dampening via the floater rattle at idle. The only place where your impressions might not match mine are where the bellhousing comes into play--I wanted a couple of layers there because of the beforementioned twin-disc rattle characteristic.I am also very curious with the driving impressions with the DEI tunnel shield and those that used a resonance barrier in conjunction with it. I only read some of the feedback on the Miata forums for those that track their cars and it greatly reduced the temperatures on those platforms the byproduct was a significantly quieter cabin - heh but that's comparing an already pretty quiet Cadillac to a noisy roadster.
That's what I'm excited about. In the summer, I have to run the A/C continuously to keep the cabin comfortable. The moment I turn it the A/C off, the engine/transmission/exhaust heat roasts the interior.Heat was my #1 concern and my tunnel (no carpet) went from too hot to comfortably touch to only a little warm.
Awesome! I've never noticed heat rising from the tunnel area from the shifter boot though - at least not enough to bring it to my attention.The good news is that the sound dampening / heat insulation layer works. Extremely well. It cut every sound the transmission made in half. And whereas previously I would place my hand on the shifter boot and feel heat rising from the tunnel area, after an aggressive 30 minute run, I felt nothing. The leather was at cabin ambient temperature.