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2004-2007 Cadillac CTS-V Performance Mods Discussion, pig in slop in Cadillac CTS-V Series Forum - 2004 - 2007; Originally Posted by philistine ^^^This *L* ok, ok, the socket looked like a single bolt...
  1. #31
    jclayc's Avatar
    jclayc is offline Cadillac Owners Fanatic
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    Re: pig in slop

    Quote Originally Posted by philistine View Post
    ^^^This
    *L* ok, ok, the socket looked like a single bolt

  2. #32
    rand49er's Avatar
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    Re: pig in slop

    "Car porn" is right. Love the pics in this thread. Good stuff.
    '05 CTS-V, Maggie, Kooks, Hotchkis, Ground Control, Corsa, B&M, DSS/Hendrix, Full 3M Clear Bra, Autovation, V Headrests, CTS Console, STS-V 55w Fogs, Black Vette FRCs, Specter Werkes, Katech LS9 Clutch, SS Brake Lines, Heavymetals U-Turn Fuel Line Eliminator, Momo Combat Evo Shift Knob, Wldwhl Clear Sidemarkers, Linea Corse LC855 Wheels or OEM wheels w/'06-'07 Center Caps, plus a couple more. 472 RWHP/411 RWTQ (Mustang Dyno).

  3. #33
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    Re: pig in slop

    Quote Originally Posted by rand49er View Post
    "Car porn" is right. Love the pics in this thread. Good stuff.
    I got some good direction from Frostbite on LS1tech about a fuel system upgrade. Now that everything is removed from under the car and access to the fuel tank, I can see what I'm getting into. I'm not going to do dual pumps right now which is the reason for the trap door - add more later when FI comes.

    I'm building a shopping list of parts. Definitely gonna run new fuel lines. The major drawbacks of the stock system is no return line and FPR is actually in the friggin bucket! This is old news for a few out there.

  4. #34
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    Re: pig in slop

    Quote Originally Posted by FuzzyLogic View Post
    If you find a ring removal tool that works, let me know. I bought one that was too big and sold it back on eBay a month or two ago.
    Eff me! The one I purchased from Amazon doesn't fit:
    OTC 6599 Universal Fuel Sender Lock Tool - doesn't fit!!!

    I'm sending it back and trying a different one from ebay. Just a FYI, I did get the bucket out while the tank is dropped but that isn't the point. I want to be able to remove it from the trap door with a tool so I don't bang the s*it out of my locking ring in the future.

    Got the fuel parts mapped out for the upgrade - just have to leave some room with the wiring to incorporate a Hobbs switch for the secondary fuel pump.

    Fuzzy, the fuel pump wiring at best is 16awg, it could be as high as 18 awg to the stock bulkhead - I haven't snipped it yet but I have 10-22awg in my garage to compare. If you are on the fence about using the Racetronix 14awg wire this should help. I don't trust the stock bulkhead connection for anything over a Walbro 255. Basically, the communications I received from Racetronix is correct...the stock bulkhead wiring is only good for 13-13.5 amps. Running a relay to the battery/alternator to feed the pump would also reduce the heat on the wires. I have to slightly modify the Racetronix hotwire kit to incorporate the bulkhead fitting.

    I'm pulling the trigger on the fuel system components from Summit tomorrow after I do one more review - expensive!

  5. #35
    FuzzyLogic is offline Cadillac Owners Connoisseur
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    Re: pig in slop

    I already have the Racetronix hotwire kit and a Walbro 255LPH pump. What I'm considering is running 1/0 AWG from the alternator to the bucket, and then transitioning to the beefiest connector I can find. As far as fuel goes, minimum -6AN stainless steel line with a 40 micron post pump filter. Either a single Walbro 450 LPH pump, or twin DW300s in the bucket. I'll have to buy a bucket to experiment on.

    http://www.ebay.com/itm/6-AN-Braided...-/330375703504

    http://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-230100/overview/

  6. #36
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    Re: pig in slop

    Thanks for the ebay link...saved hundreds! I'm going with dual DW300s - other pump going on a Hobbs switch. I'm using the nylon hose for the fuel lines and wrap the lines where they enter the engine compartment. I want the flexibility and the heat range is identical. Feed is -8AN and return -6AN.

    With all the components, lines/fittings, rails, FPR, filter, gauge and additional pump and wiring, it's right at $1k. I went with Holley stuff for the major components and FAST fuel gauge.

    You need to share your logic with running 1awg from the alternator to the bucket - that is more than overkill.

  7. #37
    FuzzyLogic is offline Cadillac Owners Connoisseur
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    Re: pig in slop

    Quote Originally Posted by philistine View Post
    Thanks for the ebay link...saved hundreds! I'm going with dual DW300s - other pump going on a Hobbs switch. I'm using the nylon hose for the fuel lines and wrap the lines where they enter the engine compartment. I want the flexibility and the heat range is identical. Feed is -8AN and return -6AN.

    With all the components, lines/fittings, rails, FPR, filter, gauge and additional pump and wiring, it's right at $1k. I went with Holley stuff for the major components and FAST fuel gauge.

    You need to share your logic with running 1awg from the alternator to the bucket - that is more than overkill.
    What kind of FPR did you pick out? Looks like a 10 micron filter is recommended for EFI applications. Do you know anything about -AN connections with and without an o-ring?

    1/0 AWG is cheap, durable, and easy to find, and the voltage drop characteristics are excellent (extreme overkill, really). The Racetronix kit, if memory serves, uses 10 AWG copper wire. Since I plan on doing a Big 3 upgrade, I figure I'll make the primary wiring in the system 1/0 AWG and be done with it.

  8. #38
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    Re: pig in slop

    I went with the following:
    HLY-162-555 - Holley HP Billet Fuel Filters - 40 microns.
    HLY-534-209 - Holley EFI Fuel Rails
    HLY-12-846 - Holley HP Billet Fuel Pressure Regulator
    FST-54027 - FAST LSX Fuel Pressure Gauge

    I got one foot in the "import" world and the other in domestic. I'm not in love with domestic aftermarket but Holley is a great option.

    Regarding the "O-ring AN fittings", the fuel rails above use -8AN straight thread size. It comes with -6AN-to-8AN o-ring thread. I'm going with -8AN-to-8AN o-ring for the fuel rails, FPR, and filter. I'm using the -6AN-to-8AN o-ring thread size that comes with the fuel rails for the return fitting on the FPR. I wanted to match as close as possible the inside diameter of the fuel rails and -8AN is it.

    I have a spreadsheet that makes more sense if you want it. I had to draw several free-body diagrams to piece everything together.

    I hope that makes sense because last week I would be scratching my head at this info.

    Regarding the Racetronix...I got the hotwire kit but I'm fabricating the wire for the secondary pump and running it in parallel from the alternator. It will also be on a relay and using 10awg (same as Racetronix uses for the long run).

  9. #39
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    Re: pig in slop

    Creative Steel Trailing Arms came in. You only need 4 spacers, I got an extra pack.





    Here's a comparison:


    The OEM bushing came out in about 1-2 minutes. Spray it with PB Blaster and push it out with a screwdriver.


    They look pretty good installed:


    Notice the spacers top and bottom, torque to 66[ft-lb]


    Torque this one to 129 [ft-lb]. Notice the bushings are not squished and bulged.



  10. #40
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    Re: pig in slop

    Purty! I like the bolt with the grease zerk built-in, that's a good idea for that application.
    '05 Stealth Grey CTS-V, Hyper Silver Linea Corse Venetos w/Continental ExtremeContact DWs (summer), black Team Dynamics ProRace 1.2 wheels with 275/35-18 R-compounds (track), Hyperblack Rota Torques (winter), KW Variant3s, V2 front brakes, Hotchkis rear sway bar, EPS cam, TEA-ported 243 heads, FAST92 intake w/LS2 TB, JBA Camaro/G8 1-3/4" shorty headers w/JBA cat pipes, Corsa exhaust, UUC motor and tranny mounts, UUC shifter, MAPerformance trailing arms, Specter cradle bushings, etc...

  11. #41
    FuzzyLogic is offline Cadillac Owners Connoisseur
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    Re: pig in slop

    Philistine, you realize that you're not going to recognize your car once you put it all back together, right?

  12. #42
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    Re: pig in slop

    Quote Originally Posted by FuzzyLogic View Post
    Philistine, you realize that you're not going to recognize your car once you put it all back together, right?
    I know right!!!

    I overlayed the RattleTrap Extreme with DEI tunnel shield. This stuff is super sticky and will take skin off on contact!



    I taped up the RattleTrap seams with DEI cool tape. The tunnel shield lays over it and is single piece and bolted in with factory fasteners. I used a 48"x42" piece. I had to hammer it in with a rubber mallet in most of the areas. This shielding is very rigid and has fiberglass reinforcement.
    lollygagger8 likes this.

  13. #43
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    Re: pig in slop

    Again, outstanding pics. You make everyone want to do this stuff.
    '05 CTS-V, Maggie, Kooks, Hotchkis, Ground Control, Corsa, B&M, DSS/Hendrix, Full 3M Clear Bra, Autovation, V Headrests, CTS Console, STS-V 55w Fogs, Black Vette FRCs, Specter Werkes, Katech LS9 Clutch, SS Brake Lines, Heavymetals U-Turn Fuel Line Eliminator, Momo Combat Evo Shift Knob, Wldwhl Clear Sidemarkers, Linea Corse LC855 Wheels or OEM wheels w/'06-'07 Center Caps, plus a couple more. 472 RWHP/411 RWTQ (Mustang Dyno).

  14. #44
    SevillianSTS is offline Cadillac Owners Enthusiast
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    Re: pig in slop

    I had a guy at work give me a good idea for the fuel pump trap door. I have not removed the back seat to verify, but figured I'd share the idea.

    Go to the scrap yard and cut a bigger section out of a standard CTS where the trap door goes. Then cut it down and roll the edges or whatever so you have a metal piece that is molded to your car, and bigger than the opening you cut. I would bet you could rivet in a piano hinge on one side.

    Not sure if it is practical in our application or not, being I have not been under there yet, but sounded like a good idea to me. =)

  15. #45
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    Re: pig in slop

    Quote Originally Posted by rand49er View Post
    Again, outstanding pics. You make everyone want to do this stuff.
    Thanks! I like the advice I get from the forums and hope it helps others with their projects.

    My trap door should be complete in a couple days. I have strike 2 on finding the proper ring remover to access the fuel pump. I'm going to borrow one from my local speedshop just to check that it works with the trap door.

    I got a ton of parts coming in Monday to complete the fuel mod - that's really the big holdup on buttoning up the car. I'm still on the fence about how I want to wire the Racetronix hotwire kit. I could go underneath the car or painfully route it through the cabin. The way it is built is not meant to run through a firewall - I got a day to decide. I can cut and splice anything so that part is not a big deal.

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