Cadillac Owners Forum banner

pig in slop

131K views 704 replies 43 participants last post by  philistine 
#1 · (Edited)
Weekend just isn't long enough...

 
See less See more
1
#5 ·
Went with the Katech LS9x clutch, 12lb aluminum flywheel, stock slave. I have the exhaust, entire drivetrain and cradle removed. Got the clutch and bellhousing bolted back up. I put some shifter bandaids in there from some bushings I got from PISNUOFF along with the Home Depot bushings - it's really tight now!

I'm installing the CS 8.8 complete turnkey kit. Then gonna drop the gas tank and interrogate the fuel system with a DW300 pump, Racetronix hotwire, trapdoor, and new a new bulkhead connector for the fuel bucket etc.

I got some DEI tunnel shielding to wrap the trans tunnel - it's sticky back but very stiff stuff so gonna form it and bolt it in. There are a few other odds/ends to get off my work desk and install - spherical RSM, brakes etc.

I'm waiting for other parts to come in...new Revshift MMs since my headers torched the old ones (weren't shielded), new Tick Bleeder, and hopefully the CS trailing arms come in soon.

I work in 2 modes...fast get-er-done mode, and slow beer drinking having fun wrenching in the garage with loud music mode. It'll be down for at least another week.
 
#7 · (Edited)
I purchased the following from Racetronix for the wiring:
BCWS-001 - bulkhead connector wire kit
BCA-4W - spare 4-way connector in case I mess up the connector
RCS-001 - connector for intank pump
WR-TEW-10-0-25 - 10awg black wire
WR-TEW-10-2-25 - 10awg red wire

Trapdoor hardware:
gasket - FDA SILICONE RUBBER SHEET 1/16" THICK 12" X 12" SQUARE FOOD GRADE HIGH TEMP
trap door cover - 12 ga 12" x 18" 304 2B Finish Stainless Steel Sheet
fastening nuts - NEW PEM CLSS-032-2 SELF CLINCHING NUT , 10-32 THREAD ( 75 PC. LOT )
screws - Stainless Steel Phillips Pan Head Machine Screw 10/32 x 3/8 Qty-25

I also got a 16 gauge air nibbler.

Basically, I'm going to go directly from the pump to the bulkhead connector and directly to the hotwire kit. I'll have to modify the current hotwire kit for the new bulkhead connection. After I get all that done, with any luck I'll fab up a trap door. It will be sealed and easy to access. The new bulkhead connector enables the addition of another fuel pump if/when the time comes. I will also eliminate the stock thin wire in the process.

Edit: Hey Fuzzy, that writeup when you installed the Revshift cradle bushings was very handy when I dropped my cradle - thanks!
 
#13 ·
Hmm, I see what you are talking about. The CS 8.8 kit differentials eliminate the famous front bushing fiasco. It is all metal contact. I must say that if there is any incredulity about the fitment of the kit...rest assured, Max did his homework - fits perfect! The measurements to get that bracket dead-nuts must have been a pain.

The fuel tank drops right down once you have the cradle out.



Just unbolt the 2 strap bolts and done - it's just wire management after that. I put my raceramp wheel cribs under there to hold it so I can work on it. I should mention that I was so confident that I could bang that ring off to access the fuel bucket - fail! That phuckin sob pos mfer wouldn't give. I gotta check around for a rental but I did order one from Amazon. Doesn't really interfere with the other crap I gotta do but damn...I really got personal with that locking ring - had to walk away.
 
#14 ·
Hmm, I see what you are talking about. The CS 8.8 kit differentials eliminate the famous front bushing fiasco. It is all metal contact. I must say that if there is any incredulity about the fitment of the kit...rest assured, Max did his homework - fits perfect! The measurements to get that bracket dead-nuts must have been a pain.
Are you sure about that metal-to-metal contact?

http://ls1tech.com/forums/cadillac-cts-v/1609709-need-help-8-8-install-front-bushings-diff.html
 
#19 · (Edited)
Ahh, for some reason I thought it was in reference to the bushing on the old differential - the front that many have replaced. The smaller bracket on the 8.8" clearly has bushings sandwiched in there normal (perpendicular) to where the OEM was on the old differential. Other than that the only bushings left are in the cradle itself where you slide the 2 bolts through to top CS bracket.
 
#21 ·
A little progress...

The trapdoor access has been cut. I have the gas tank lifted into position. There is enough room to remove the fuel lines and pull out the bucket. I have to fit the ring removal tool to make sure that works - waiting for that part to come in. Once fitment is confirmed, it's all monkey work fabricating the cover and I have all the parts here to complete that.

 
#26 · (Edited)
Yeah I'm done with the hammer and screwdriver method - results vary and it wasn't happening for me. Regarding the pem self clinching nuts...no luck. I have a sample piece that I cut out and the metal is just too thin. I drilled and pressed them in perfect without distorting the metal...eventually driving the screw in there spins the self-clinching nut out. My test piece looks like swiss cheese. I took a thicker piece of metal and it clinches perfectly.

I could dip them in JB weld and possibly get them to stick. The shear strength just isn't high enough with that low contact surface area.




JB weld test piece:


Edit: Gonna use a sheet metal punch. My standard drill bits were chewing the thin sheet metal too much. That should solve the problem.
 
#29 ·
I recommend two layers of something like b-quiet, making sure to follow the driveline into the trunk. Then you will find that one layer of Luxury Liner Pro will fit over that. I've still got my back seat out--I want to add a second layer under there, but the seat bottom won't latch with it in place. Thinking about a couple of options, including cutting a 0.25" slit in the foam seat bottom to create a void with which to insert the second layer.
 
#33 ·
I got some good direction from Frostbite on LS1tech about a fuel system upgrade. Now that everything is removed from under the car and access to the fuel tank, I can see what I'm getting into. I'm not going to do dual pumps right now which is the reason for the trap door - add more later when FI comes.

I'm building a shopping list of parts. Definitely gonna run new fuel lines. The major drawbacks of the stock system is no return line and FPR is actually in the friggin bucket! This is old news for a few out there.
 
#35 ·
I already have the Racetronix hotwire kit and a Walbro 255LPH pump. What I'm considering is running 1/0 AWG from the alternator to the bucket, and then transitioning to the beefiest connector I can find. As far as fuel goes, minimum -6AN stainless steel line with a 40 micron post pump filter. Either a single Walbro 450 LPH pump, or twin DW300s in the bucket. I'll have to buy a bucket to experiment on.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/6-AN-Braided-Stainless-Steel-Fuel-Line-Hose-1500-PSI-/330375703504

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-230100/overview/
 
#36 ·
Thanks for the ebay link...saved hundreds! I'm going with dual DW300s - other pump going on a Hobbs switch. I'm using the nylon hose for the fuel lines and wrap the lines where they enter the engine compartment. I want the flexibility and the heat range is identical. Feed is -8AN and return -6AN.

With all the components, lines/fittings, rails, FPR, filter, gauge and additional pump and wiring, it's right at $1k. I went with Holley stuff for the major components and FAST fuel gauge.

You need to share your logic with running 1awg from the alternator to the bucket - that is more than overkill.
 
#37 ·
What kind of FPR did you pick out? Looks like a 10 micron filter is recommended for EFI applications. Do you know anything about -AN connections with and without an o-ring?

1/0 AWG is cheap, durable, and easy to find, and the voltage drop characteristics are excellent (extreme overkill, really). The Racetronix kit, if memory serves, uses 10 AWG copper wire. Since I plan on doing a Big 3 upgrade, I figure I'll make the primary wiring in the system 1/0 AWG and be done with it.
 
#38 · (Edited)
I went with the following:
HLY-162-555 - Holley HP Billet Fuel Filters - 40 microns.
HLY-534-209 - Holley EFI Fuel Rails
HLY-12-846 - Holley HP Billet Fuel Pressure Regulator
FST-54027 - FAST LSX Fuel Pressure Gauge

I got one foot in the "import" world and the other in domestic. I'm not in love with domestic aftermarket but Holley is a great option.

Regarding the "O-ring AN fittings", the fuel rails above use -8AN straight thread size. It comes with -6AN-to-8AN o-ring thread. I'm going with -8AN-to-8AN o-ring for the fuel rails, FPR, and filter. I'm using the -6AN-to-8AN o-ring thread size that comes with the fuel rails for the return fitting on the FPR. I wanted to match as close as possible the inside diameter of the fuel rails and -8AN is it.

I have a spreadsheet that makes more sense if you want it. I had to draw several free-body diagrams to piece everything together.

I hope that makes sense because last week I would be scratching my head at this info.

Regarding the Racetronix...I got the hotwire kit but I'm fabricating the wire for the secondary pump and running it in parallel from the alternator. It will also be on a relay and using 10awg (same as Racetronix uses for the long run).
 
#39 · (Edited)
Creative Steel Trailing Arms came in. You only need 4 spacers, I got an extra pack.





Here's a comparison:


The OEM bushing came out in about 1-2 minutes. Spray it with PB Blaster and push it out with a screwdriver.


They look pretty good installed:


Notice the spacers top and bottom, torque to 66[ft-lb]


Torque this one to 129 [ft-lb]. Notice the bushings are not squished and bulged.


 
#42 ·
I know right!!!

I overlayed the RattleTrap Extreme with DEI tunnel shield. This stuff is super sticky and will take skin off on contact!



I taped up the RattleTrap seams with DEI cool tape. The tunnel shield lays over it and is single piece and bolted in with factory fasteners. I used a 48"x42" piece. I had to hammer it in with a rubber mallet in most of the areas. This shielding is very rigid and has fiberglass reinforcement.
 
#45 ·
Thanks! I like the advice I get from the forums and hope it helps others with their projects.

My trap door should be complete in a couple days. I have strike 2 on finding the proper ring remover to access the fuel pump. I'm going to borrow one from my local speedshop just to check that it works with the trap door.

I got a ton of parts coming in Monday to complete the fuel mod - that's really the big holdup on buttoning up the car. I'm still on the fence about how I want to wire the Racetronix hotwire kit. I could go underneath the car or painfully route it through the cabin. The way it is built is not meant to run through a firewall - I got a day to decide. I can cut and splice anything so that part is not a big deal.
 
#44 ·
I had a guy at work give me a good idea for the fuel pump trap door. I have not removed the back seat to verify, but figured I'd share the idea.

Go to the scrap yard and cut a bigger section out of a standard CTS where the trap door goes. Then cut it down and roll the edges or whatever so you have a metal piece that is molded to your car, and bigger than the opening you cut. I would bet you could rivet in a piano hinge on one side.

Not sure if it is practical in our application or not, being I have not been under there yet, but sounded like a good idea to me. =)
 
#47 · (Edited)
Unless we have different locking rings...that won't fit. I'll post a close-up on my fuel locking ring failures - at least I get a full refund. The ones I purchased have a triangular pattern and the locking ring does not follow the grip pattern - they were both too big as well.

Kent Moore Fuel Tank Lock Ring Wrench J-45722 - fail:


I think it might be this one:
http://www.etoolcart.com/kent-moore-fuel-tank-sending-unit-wrench-j-39765.aspx

...or this one:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Kent-Moore-..._Automotive_Tools&vxp=mtr&hash=item3f2939accd

***************************
Edit: (many edits on here)
Put a call into Luke at Lindsay Cadillac and he said from the drawings the listed tools are as follows:

J-45747
J-39765

I'm getting some drawings from him via email.

http://www.autozone.com/autozone/re...Fuel-Injection/Fuel-Pump/_/P-0996b43f80cb41ab
 
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top