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2004-2007 Cadillac CTS-V Performance Mods Discussion, pig in slop in Cadillac CTS-V Series Forum - 2004 - 2007; Originally Posted by FuzzyLogic Philistine, when you mentioned rivet nuts earlier and posted a link for the Jegs kit, I ...
  1. #256
    brngrhd is offline Cadillac Owners Member
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    Re: pig in slop

    Quote Originally Posted by FuzzyLogic View Post
    Philistine, when you mentioned rivet nuts earlier and posted a link for the Jegs kit, I was hoping that I wouldn't need to buy another tool, but now that I've looked at this a little more, I think the kit will come in handy for more than just this project. I already have plenty of bits, but I ordered the kit, 10AN and 12AN clamps, and a couple extra packs of rivet nuts. If I go crazy, I'll probably only need a half-dozen per side.

    Supposedly, my huge order from FrozenBoost is coming in on Monday (not sure if I believe that). At that point, things should start moving. I still need the regulator, filter, and rails, I'll be able to construct the bucket and measure/cut/finish the fuel lines. I'll probably take that opportunity to do my POR15 underbody coating and install the rivet nuts.
    You don't "need" more tools. You can put a bolt in with some washers and a nut on it, tighten the nut against the washers to crush the riv-nut. When you install running boards on a ram truck you have to install riv nuts and that's what they send with it.

  2. #257
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    Re: pig in slop

    The downside of the tool is that it operates like a standard rivet gun which can limit those hard to reach places. The bolt, nut, washer method to compress it is a great idea for hard to reach places. I used this not only for installing the Adel clamps but also mounting the vacuum manifold - nice and clean.

    I had horrible luck with the self clinching PEM nuts - not for me, but I tried. A few of them worked but it's enough for me to toss them in the drawer and admit out of my skill or bad application for what I wanted. I used the PEM nuts for my trap door for a clean look but it's not 100% perfect and I ended up sealing a few areas with silicone.

    I can totally vouch for the Jegs rivet nut tool though, damn perfect every time!

  3. #258
    FuzzyLogic is offline Banned
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    Re: pig in slop

    Well, I'll be darned. The shipment from FrozenBoost came in today. My reaction to the -12AN fittings was one of eyebrow raised amusement. My reaction to the fact that FrozenBoost encapsulates their stainless steel lines in a brown, semi-transparent sheath of silicon was decidedly more negative. However, these lines won't be seen in the engine bay (and I'll wrap them in thermal insulation anyway), so I guess it doesn't really matter. Anyway, enjoy :


    In reading order: blue AN aluminum wrenches, blue 10AN to 1/2" NPT adapters (not used), 5/16" hose barb to 1/4" NPT, 3/8" Gates hose, 5/16" Gates hose, two flexihoses, two 8AN 45-degree fittings, 10AN 45-degree fitting, 10AN and 12AN test kit (three pieces each, silver, includes plain plug, plug with 1/4" NPT tapped hole, and Schrader valve to 1/4" NPT fitting for an air compressor), Russell 650420 10AN Y-block, two 8mm (5/16" equiv.) hose barb to 10AN adapters in the Russell Y-block, one 10AN 90-degree bulkhead adapter in the Russell Y-block, 8AN/10AN/12AN hose fittings, more fittings, and a DW300.

    You may want to click on the above image and use Photobucket to grab it at native size (hit the magnifying glass on the lower right a couple of times). For reference, 12AN is like . . . small dick sized. Anyway, since the Frozenboost test kit plugs were identical in diameter to AN bulkhead nuts, I put a 10AN and 12AN plug on the fuel bucket lid to show clearances:







    I also did one with pieces from the 8AN, 10AN, and 12AN hose fittings, for fun:



    Look how big the inner diameter of the 3/8" Gates hose is, compared to the OEM return port (the little hole in the white plastic thing):


  4. #259
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    Re: pig in slop

    Those are good pics! Nice assortment of fittings and very high quality. I want to point out think about how you are going to tighten the bulkhead fittings on there with the nut on the underside. Turn them diagonal (pointy ends facing each other instead of flat ends towards each other) and find out if there is enough space to use a socket or either or both - or if you can use an open end wrench. Those bulkhead fittings have to be very tight.

    Another method I did not try was to thread the bulkhead fitting in there without the nut and using a gasket on the outer surface. So in other words, tap the fuel module and thread it in there. Depending on the size of the holes and proximity, you weaken the surface area of the fuel module.

    The placement and angle of the fuel supply and return are critical to where you are going to route your lines. How much relief/clearance are you going to have as it routes from the top of the module and out to your filter etc. I had to do a few mock tests but lined it up where the OEM fuel lines were in the fuel tank line clamp/holder. Not enough relief and it will tug on that bulkhead fitting. Not the right angle and you could snap the fuel module with the bulkhead fitting.

    If drilling, use Forstner style drill bits for a more precise cut.

    I'm sure you'll think it through...again, nice pics!

    Edit: I think I see some black center caps for the cts-v wheels...I need some, link please.

  5. #260
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    Re: pig in slop

    Quote Originally Posted by philistine View Post
    Edit: I think I see some black center caps for the cts-v wheels...I need some, link please.
    Here you go. $110 for a full set. I wish he was still selling sets of them for $80.

    http://www.ebay.com/itm/200929641951

    By the way, thanks to my AN fittings order, I was able to mock up my system and realize that I'm short a few parts. 21 more fittings ordered. That 5% off code at FrozenBoost is going to be worth quite a bit now!
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  6. #261
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    Re: pig in slop

    Nice choice on the teflon fuel hoses. Based on many reviews it's the way to go for no fuel odors and E85. Time will tell how long my Pro-lite stuff will last. If it starts to stink my garage then I'll know to yank it and replace it.

    I have visions of a gas sprinkler under my car after I solve my clutch install - haha

  7. #262
    FuzzyLogic is offline Banned
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    Re: pig in slop

    Quote Originally Posted by philistine View Post
    I have visions of a gas sprinkler under my car after I solve my clutch install - haha
    If so, I hope it's as epic as this oldie-goldie:

    http://bacon.modacity.net/stuff/lollin/BEES.htm

  8. #263
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    Re: pig in slop

    Well the fuel hose I purchased is rated for E85 as well but just have to see how it holds up in the long run. Going forward, I would only recommend teflon but it was an afterthought.

    I've become efficient at dropping a cts-v transmission now. The big chore is reduced to a simple task. Had it out in one hour. Broke my heart to disassemble the exhaust...those 3" SW pipes are a wrestling match to put back in. I feel like a kid on the "monkey" bars at a playground getting them back in place.

  9. #264
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    Re: pig in slop

    any tips or tricks or shortcuts you have to share on dropping the transmission?

  10. #265
    FuzzyLogic is offline Banned
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    Re: pig in slop

    Quote Originally Posted by voodoochikin04 View Post
    any tips or tricks or shortcuts you have to share on dropping the transmission?
    Use the $75, 450 lb Harbor Freight jack and the instructions provided by the CTS-V FAQ. Don't forget to remove the electrical connections or you'll destroy them. Don't forget to unbolt the shifter plate from the bottom of the car. Once the transmission is unbolted from the bell housing and supported by the jack, press the clutch pedal in a controlled manner to partially separate the two. Finish the separation process with a strong, flat blade screwdriver or something wider/bigger. Both surfaces are aluminum, and you don't want to gouge either of them.

    You'll need to lift the car at least 16-18 inches off the ground if you plan on slipping the transmission out from the bottom of the car on its side. When you go to reinstall the transmission, unbolt the bottom of the shifter so that you can manipulate it into the hole in the bottom of the car as the transmission rises. Watch the wire harnesses--they're easy to pinch. If you need to tighten up the bell housing, you won't be able to get all of the bolts on the sides until the transmission is hanging off the engine and tilts it down slightly.

  11. #266
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    Re: pig in slop

    ^^^basically that. Here are a few things that made it faster for me.

    1) That 450 lb trans-jack Fuzzy mentioned
    2) 15mm Mac (or equivalent) swivel head socket (not swivel connector)
    3) 24"-36" combined length socket extensions
    4) Impact gun

    I separated the transmission differently. Once all the bolts were out, I used my headers as a handle and gently rocked the engine. From there I could bump the trans-jack up or down depending on how tight it is in there.

  12. #267
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    Re: pig in slop

    cool, thanks.

  13. #268
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    Re: pig in slop

    +1 on the extra long extensions and a trans jack. I also found loosening one of the headers makes it much easier to get the bell housing out
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  14. #269
    FuzzyLogic is offline Banned
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    Re: pig in slop

    Philistine, did you get the car on the ground today?

  15. #270
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    Re: pig in slop

    Going on the ground when I get home.

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