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2004-2007 Cadillac CTS-V Performance Mods Discussion, pig in slop in Cadillac CTS-V Series Forum - 2004 - 2007; Originally Posted by philistine I'm blind at night and have tinted windows, so can you give a link to the ...
  1. #226
    FuzzyLogic is offline Cadillac Owners Connoisseur
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    Re: pig in slop

    Quote Originally Posted by philistine View Post
    I'm blind at night and have tinted windows, so can you give a link to the reverse tail lights?
    Here's the original thread:

    http://www.cadillacforums.com/forums...erse-leds.html

    However there are now potentially brighter (or at least higher wattage) 3157s. Haven't tried these yet, but will when my 60W turn signal 3157s burn out:

    http://www.ebay.com/itm/321190667803

  2. #227
    SevillianSTS is offline Cadillac Owners Enthusiast
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    Re: pig in slop

    Look at that fuzzy, now we're spending more of philistines money


    So you are able to shift to Reverse at 70 without messing up syncros or anything else ? Obviously keeping the clutch in.

    They don't fit perfectly, you gotta push them in real tight; I used a touch of jb weld in 2 spots on each to make sure it doesn't vibrate out.

    http://www.ebay.com/itm/121136236661?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p398 4.m1497.l2648


    http://www.cadillacforums.com/forums...erse-leds.html

  3. #228
    FuzzyLogic is offline Cadillac Owners Connoisseur
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    Re: pig in slop

    Yeah, the sides of the connector tab have a little artistic curve that interferes with the socket. However, it will click into place. I've been running them since the date on that thread without any problems.

  4. #229
    SevillianSTS is offline Cadillac Owners Enthusiast
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    Re: pig in slop

    You know... while we're talking about reverse lights. As much as I hate walmart, I still go there every once in a while.
    The V always parks in the back of the lot, but I was thinking it'd be fun to put a switch on the reverse lights of my Blazer and then anytime I get a front row spot, turn the lights on after I get out; maybe even put a camera in the back window. See how many people sit and wait until they get pissed and leave.

  5. #230
    FuzzyLogic is offline Cadillac Owners Connoisseur
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    Re: pig in slop

    If you do that, you'd better remember to buy an extra car battery while you're in there.

  6. #231
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    philistine is online now Cadillac Owners Enthusiast
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    Re: pig in slop

    Quote Originally Posted by FuzzyLogic View Post
    Philistine, I didn't know that the stock pump was PWMed. My impression was that it was running at rated speed, the whole time.

    Also, for what it's worth, there have been a couple of discussions on LS1Tech regarding the stock pump: while some have been able to make 500 RWHP on the stock pump, many others have seen fuel pressure at the rail fall significantly during WOT runs at 430-450 RWHP.

    Assuming you're correct about the PWM, I'd argue that any CTS-V making more than 425 RWHP should have a Racetronix hotwire kit and a better pump. When you look at the number of failed fuel systems on this platform, for stock-ish cars, you have to wonder whether there was any real margin in the design of the system. It seems plausible that PWM control was utilized to reduce electrical load on the system, or alternately, GM designed the power distribution system with PWM in mind. Either way, once you make enough power to increase the duty cycle significantly, something in the system is bound to fail.
    From LS1Tech
    Quote Originally Posted by DMM View Post
    No, there is no PWM. This was started on the 2009+ V2's. All V1's have a simple on/off command and the regulation is done by the regulator attached to the fuel pump module.
    My assumption that the V1s fuel was controlled by PWM were wrong apparently. I guess the feedback I got from a local tuner was referencing the V2s since those are more common on the dyno.

    Fuzzy, your advice is dead-on then recommending a Racetronix kit - it provides another ground and much better voltage. Putting my foot in my mouth on that one. Thanks for questing it!

  7. #232
    FuzzyLogic is offline Cadillac Owners Connoisseur
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    Re: pig in slop

    Quote Originally Posted by philistine View Post
    Thanks for questing it!
    Thanks for closing the loop! I wouldn't have known otherwise!

  8. #233
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    Re: pig in slop

    Quote Originally Posted by philistine View Post
    From LS1Tech


    My assumption that the V1s fuel was controlled by PWM were wrong apparently. I guess the feedback I got from a local tuner was referencing the V2s since those are more common on the dyno.

    Fuzzy, your advice is dead-on then recommending a Racetronix kit - it provides another ground and much better voltage. Putting my foot in my mouth on that one. Thanks for questing it!
    Thanks for getting the solid answer on this. I'm feeling real confident now with my upgrade.

    [2006 CTS-V - "The Vee Baby Seamus"] - 372rwhp / 361rwtq
    Pacesetters | Off Road Adapters | Cutouts | Stock Airbox | Stock Catback
    BMR AWK | CS Diff Block | Short Shifter | UMI MM | Revshift TM

  9. #234
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    Re: pig in slop

    Oh it just furthered my justification replacing my fuel system. I shudder at those pics...so many options. Sorry to put ideas in your head but I would also turn my focus to the in-tank regulator - since we know there is no PWM regulating the voltage of the fuel pumps. I would hesitate slapping it back together if it wasn't investigated.

  10. #235
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    sssnake is offline Cadillac Owners Fanatic
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    Quote Originally Posted by philistine View Post

    From LS1Tech

    My assumption that the V1s fuel was controlled by PWM were wrong apparently. I guess the feedback I got from a local tuner was referencing the V2s since those are more common on the dyno.

    Fuzzy, your advice is dead-on then recommending a Racetronix kit - it provides another ground and much better voltage. Putting my foot in my mouth on that one. Thanks for questing it!
    Damn it! I just read thru 6 pages of this thread to see if you discovered that the V1s were non PWM. Got to the last page and found this. I will be digging into fueling again this weekend. My fuel trims are all over the place and I need to figure out why.

  11. #236
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    Re: pig in slop

    Quote Originally Posted by FuzzyLogic View Post
    Also, based on the amount of effort it took to shift gears, it looks like you're not done bleeding yet. Also, is your exhaust ceramic coated?
    Here's the reference video (skip to 0.28 sec):


    Hmm, I used the Motive bleeder on there and cycled it through 3-4 times with a couple quarts - the shifter is still notchy and 6th is very difficult. I did those shifter bandaids including the brass isolator cup - had no issues.

    It's a brand new Katech LS9x clutch with the OEM LS6 slave (instructions say to keep the OEM slave, no shims etc). I haven't had it on the road yet to do a "1st gear clutch in" test to see if it moves.

    Just wondering if anyone experienced anything similar with a twin disc clutch or the identical clutch.

  12. #237
    FuzzyLogic is offline Cadillac Owners Connoisseur
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    Re: pig in slop

    You're going to need to get rid of that OEM slave. Screw those instructions. People don't know how long our bell housing is. Hard shifting at idle is a sure sign that your slave isn't long enough or shimmed properly to completely disengage the clutch. You'll never go wrong with a PowerTorque CS2529 (LS7 slave).

    In related news, I went against my Mark 0 Eyeball and increased the torque on my McLeod RXT pressure plate to the full rated 35 ft-lbs. That was a mistake. I'm going to have to yank the transmission for the 12th time since I bought the car, measure (which I should've done in the first place), and torque/shim to establish the correct spacing. I'm thinking 29 ft-lbs and 0.055" shim, but my measurements will tell the whole story.

  13. #238
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    Re: pig in slop

    Quote Originally Posted by FuzzyLogic View Post
    Yeah, you're going to need to get rid of that OEM slave. Burn those instructions. People don't know how long our bell housing is. Hard shifting at idle is a sure sign that your slave isn't long enough or shimmed properly to completely disengage the clutch. You'll never go wrong with a PowerTorque CS2529 (LS7 slave).

    In related news, I went against my Mark 0 Eyeball and increased the torque on my McLeod RXT pressure plate to the full rated 35 ft-lbs. That was a mistake. I'm going to have to yank the transmission for the 12th time since I bought the car, measure (which I should've done in the first place), and torque/shim to establish the correct spacing.
    The Katech instructions specified 52 [lb-ft] and I did exactly that. That sucks, really sucks...a lot. Do you have the spacing numbers handy for the proper distance? I've never measured it. I guess time to get a set of Tick shims and find a new LS6 slave.

  14. #239
    FuzzyLogic is offline Cadillac Owners Connoisseur
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    Re: pig in slop

    Quote Originally Posted by philistine View Post
    The Katech instructions specified 52 [lb-ft] and I did exactly that. That sucks, really sucks...a lot. Do you have the spacing numbers handy for the proper distance? I've never measured it. I guess time to get a set of Tick shims and find a new LS6 slave.
    I recommend the PowerTorque CS2529. I have the Tick shim three-pack, but I've never needed it. You might want to hold off on that until you get a better slave and measure. Unless you have $40 to burn on top of the $130 the slave will cost you.

    Spacing and pressure plate torque specs are vehicle and clutch combination dependent. The only kind of person that can answer your question would be a CTS-V1 owner with the same clutch as you. Since there aren't a lot of those, you'll probably have to measure. The thousand mile high perspective is that when you install your transmission, you want your pressure plate fingers to compress the throw out bearing to 99.9% of its full travel with your foot off the pedal. Any more than that, and you'll never be able to fully engage the clutch (the fingers will be trapped by the slave). Any less than that, and you might not have enough forward throw on the slave to depress the pressure plate fingers enough to fully disengage the clutch.

    As you torque the pressure plate, you'll notice that the fingers slowly retract inward. If you measure and find that you need just a little more reach on the fingers, you can reduce the amount of torque on the pressure plate to extend the fingers a bit. Or you can drop a shim behind the slave. I prefer the former, because shims tend to shift/settle/compress over time, and you can't dial in a shim as perfectly as you can with the pressure plate torque. I know that you would never do this, but some people over-shim to compensate for their terrible bleeding abilities, and end up running their clutch in a partially engaged configuration all the time where it's constantly slipping and burning up inside the bellhousing.

    Here's the popular LS1Tech thread explaining how to correctly measure your pressure plate and throw-out bearing distances:

    http://ls1tech.com/forums/manual-tra...need-shim.html

    ----------

    By the way, GulfM3 over on LS1Tech has been asking me questions about the fuel system build. In particular, he wants to know what we think the chances are of sucking the bucket dry or causing cavitation. Frankly, I don't understand how the intake mechanism of the bucket works (I've been doing all kinds of embarrassing things like blowing into the various ports to figure out where the air is going), so I can't answer his question.

    If I understand your bucket build, you have the primary pump connected to the bucket feed mechanism, and the second pump connected directly to your Y-block. Given the fact that the bucket is like a piece of Swiss cheese (it probably has a hard time keeping the pumps wet) and you're drawing one pump's worth of fuel into the bucket while pushing two out, it seems plausible that dual-pump operation will eventually suck the bucket dry. What do you think?

    That aside, one thing that I like about this build is the greatly improved fuel return / cooling system. If I'm deducing the function of the OEM regulator correctly, the unit has a tiny, always-open port (pictured below) that admits a small stream of fuel into the bucket.



    During a positive pressure transient (where you let your foot off the gas), the port on the back of the regulator opens (pictured below) and dumps excess fuel back into the fuel tank. Unfortunately, that operation robs the fuel pump of much-needed cooling flow that (IMHO) it should have received.



    If you return to the first picture, compare the inner diameter of the 3/8" return line to the pinhole-sized port on the stock system. Not only does this fuel system have a lot less flow restriction, it provides massively better cooling by sending 100% of the unneeded fuel back into the bucket, instead of just a small trickle.

    Also, my -10AN Russell Y-block arrived. It's . . . large.




  15. #240
    liqidvenom is offline Cadillac Owners Connoisseur
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    Re: pig in slop

    I would say that i ran my LS7 slave and twin disk, needed no spacer and followed the tq instructions listed with the product. Nearly 50k and years of very hard abuse it is still taking it with no worries.

    If i have to pull the trans 12 times i would have stopped putting the same old t56 back in.

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