Cadillac Owners Forum banner

pig in slop

131K views 704 replies 43 participants last post by  philistine 
#1 · (Edited)
Weekend just isn't long enough...

 
See less See more
1
#638 ·

RacingBrake 2115-381 rotor, new CTS-V caliper with Earl's speed bleeders, RacingBrake ET800 pads, HardBrake 1.0mm titanium shims, Permatex Ceramic, and new Class 10.9 bolts




Check out how nicely I matched the bolt length to the depth of the caliper mount

Aaand... a preview of the Beta 2 spindle duct hardware...


Checking fitment against the DRT rotors...actual spacing will be double, due to two-piece stacked design
 
#641 ·
I assume it is SS braided line? in that case the inside is actually PTFE which is pretty inelastic as far as plastics go. As long as you didn't crack the PTFE you'd be fine the problem is you have no way of knowing that. you could try bleeding that corner and see if the line is leaking at all.
 
#647 · (Edited)
Philistine, try Hose Specialties in California.

Power steering update: I had the power steering system halfway yanked out yesterday and had to rethink my plans because the Heidt PS-101's inlets/outlets were too close together to accept 6AN/10AN fittings. Ordered $200 worth of smaller 8AN fittings and hose to fix the problem. Yuck. At least I'll be able to build a completely superfluous system out of all of these spare parts. :bigroll:

On a more positive note, I tried out the POR-15/POR-20 aerosol combination that I plan to use on my subframe and the bottom of the car. My test piece was the power steering bracket, which was looking pretty ragged due to exposure. Although I have all of the POR-15 metal etching / prep products, I simply sprayed the bracket down with brake cleaner, wiped it off, and let it dry before painting. The whole thing--cleaning and spraying one coat of POR-15 and POR-20 each--took less than five minutes. For the amount of time I invested, the results are pretty remarkable. Check it out:





Hardware is 304 stainless steel M8x20mm hex cap bolts and serrated M8 flange washers. The 90 degree fittings are expensive: Russell 640181 (-10AN) with the Endura coating. Because of the concern regarding exposure to corrosive fluids (e.g. if I accidentally spill some brake fluid), the entire system uses Russell Endura products, which has doubled or tripled the cost of the plumbing. If someone else wants to do this mod, let me know--I'll happily sell you my extra Earl's bracket (the kit comes with two and you only need one) and some fasteners.
 
#649 · (Edited)
By the way, the stock pulley diameter is 6.0". The KRC pulley I selected measures 6.5", but the pump sits lower. With the spring loaded tensioner, the system is forgiving, however, I would recommend a smaller belt regardless of what kind of tensioner you have.

Here's a handy reference chart for the Gatorback Poly-V belt, provided by Goodyear. The stock belt is 82.20", which corresponds to the 4060822 model. That belt will still work fine--confirmed. The automatic tensioner is at 50% travel with my OEM belt, which has 30,000 miles on it.

I have a Goodyear 4060822 on order--should be here Friday. It'll be interesting to see if the stock belt expanded at all.
 
#650 ·
I didn't see you list the KRC power steering pump part number anywhere. what is it?

EDIT: just got your PM, thanks.
 
#651 ·
I didn't see you list the KRC power steering pump part number anywhere. what is it?
It's the KRC Pro Series Aluminum pump with the bolt-on tank. Having a bolt-on tank eliminates the high pressure feed line from the reservoir--a major weakness of the stock system and any system featuring a remote reservoir. If you want, you can use their interchangable flow valve system to adjust power assistance in about eight different steps. I'm taking this a step further with my design and the Heidt's PS-101.

Whatever you do, don't buy the iron pump--it cavitates above 5000 pump RPM just like the stock one (Norm @ KRC will give you an earful if you call him and ask about it). For instance, even with the largest 6.5" pulley, you'll be burning up the pump at above 4300 RPM (6.5/7.530 * 5000 RPM = 4316 RPM). It's intended primarily for rock crawlers.

KRC parts list:
KRC 63200100 - Pro Series Aluminum Pump with Bolt-On Tank
KRC 71410040 - LS Series Head Mount Kit
KRC 20020650 - 6.5" Pro Series 6-rib Serpentine Pulley (Y-Body Offset)

You may be pleased to note that all KRC pulleys are splined, rather than press-fit. For the best price, call CJ Heskett at Port City Racecars at 1-800-215-8074. I found them and contacted them through eBay when I noticed their price on the KRC 63202100 kit. CJ got right back to me and gave me a (slightly) better price than I could find anywhere else.
 
#653 ·
I'll see what I can do. I'm building the lines right now. Because I won't have exactly the right parts until Friday, and needing to drive into work tomorrow, the feed line is going to be 10AN and the return line is going to be 6AN (backwards) with no PS-101 in the system. So it'll be a temporary arrangement--probably sans heat shielding.

This weekend or the next, I'll actually route everything correctly with all of the accouterments. Installing a drain and having the PS-101 in the system almost increase the cost of the system by a third. At the risk of sounding like a broken record, it's amazing how expensive those Endura fittings are.
 
#655 ·
Just want to take a minute and say thanks to Phillistine and Fuzzy for all the constant research and work done in all this! this is a huge thread with alot of great info and links. all those lists and links are awesome. Phillistine you mentioned the 160 swift springs and said they were heavier but didnt give a review of them..(or maybe i missed it somehow) and thank you fuzzy for all the other suspension threads. took me awhile but i composed a full list not to forget one thing down to the last bolt for my personal full suspension mod from hell which involves a bunch of threads together but done all at once in my case.. only waiting for my addco sways to arrive summit seems to be taking there time.. only missing link to my parts is the endlinks.. i need a center to center measurement from bolt hole to bolt hole.. i see that phillistine used z06 links in which i currently have on the car now and my car is slammed so i dont see how they are going to work once the kw3 kit is installed. Fuzzy you mentioned removing the clutch pedal being a PITA i will tell you from experience it truly is. there are nuts at the top of the brackets towards the firewall that hold the e-brake and clutch assemblies that were impossible for me to reach until i had the entire dash out of my car and down to the firewall. and that alone is one major headache! but all these fuel mods are making me super happy to read and parts have already started gathering in my shopping carts... THANKS! would do multiple quotes for the references and upload a pic of the bolts i referred to but dont know how.. learning curve in the forum will be overcome shortly i hope.
 
#658 ·
You can drill out the Addco bars to 12mm if you want them to match your bottom holes, but if you're going to buy a 10mm end link, there isn't any reason to. You can run a 10mm end link in a 12mm hole as long as you tighten it down nicely. You may get a little extra travel in the suspension before the sway bar kicks in, but frankly, 2mm isn't something you'll notice.

As to your other question, you'll have to ask the manufacturer.
 
#661 ·
A random installation tip: to straighten out power cable and stainless steel hoses (or to get them to turn sharply and stay like that), briefly hit the cable or hose with a heat gun and work it in the direction you want it to go.

Cables and hoses are wound onto a reel right after manufacture--sometimes when they're still warm. This is why they often have a "taken a form" by the time you receive them. Some people seem to struggle to work around that, not realizing that a couple of seconds worth of work can render them straight again.
 
#662 ·
Sidenote...I work as a contractor in an automotive assembly plant and all the main wiring harnesses are slightly "cooked" in an oven immediately prior to installation. One of their assembly workshop videos suggest that the car has 550,000 electrical connections...could be true I guess if you consider all of the circuit board connections in with this but that is a staggering number.
 
#664 ·
Quick update, showing preliminary stainless steel line installation and thermal wrap.

Still waiting for the additional fittings so that I can plumb the return to the cooler, and from there, to the PS-101. Right now, the area around the power steering pump is significantly more open than it was before. It's easy to see the rack fittings from the above, for instance.


Measuring lines and preparing to wrap


The blue fitting will be going away


Lines wrapped, preparing to mark and cut wrapping


Bottom view of wrap
 
#665 ·
the power steering pump work is looking good! I'm interested in seeing how this turns out
 
#666 ·
Fuzzy, what feed and return lines are you using? PTFE I assume. Is the pressure from the system suitable for the lines and end fittings? Having custom lines fabbed up has crossed my mind once the length has been determined. I believe the fabbed 'crimp' hose lines have a higher pressure rating than the DIY assembled hose lines.
 
#668 ·
I'm wondering if you pave the way for others with properly running the lines and measuring the lengths if the price could drop by having them pre-fabbed and crimped. Any cost benefit to that? Personally, I like running my own lines so thanks for the references.
 
#672 · (Edited)
I thought I'd drop in and write a quick post regarding the Hotchkiss 23391375 sway bar brackets for use with very stiff sway bars (e.g. solid 1.375" Addco bars). I thought I mentioned these before, but after receiving a PM about this, I guess not.



Be forewarned: these brackets are prohibitively expensive [$140]. Having bent a few sets of $25 Energy Suspension brackets, however, I count myself among the group that feels the cost of 7075-T651 aluminum is justified.

Before I go further, I just want to clarify: these are NOT a necessity if you simply want to install Whiteline KLL135 end link locks--the Energy Suspension 9-5173R is just barely tall enough to support their full range of motion, as shown below. Yes, the Hotchkis brackets sit slightly taller, but that shouldn't be enough reason to buy them.



For those of you who are wondering what I'm talking about, end link locks are simply devices that prevent your sway bars from sliding side-to-side. Although the venerable Hotchkis HSS-2280 sway bar kit features welded tabs that perform this function, the Addco bars do not come equipped with a locking mechanism. Therefore, if you have Addco bars, you'll want to get a KLL135 for the front bar (as mentioned above), and a KLL127 for the rear bar.

Based on the following photos, check out how much my Addco bars slid without the locks. Notice how much of each bar has been cleaned by the unwanted, back-and-forth motion:


Addco 2290 (front) sway bar side-to-side travel, sans Whiteline KLL135 lateral locks


Addco 2289 (rear) sway bar side-to-side travel, sans Whiteline KLL127 lateral locks

If you want to upgrade to the Hotchkis brackets on the front, you'll need the following three things:

  1. Two Hotchkis 16810288 stand-offs from the HSS-2280 CTS-V sway bar kit. They're the rectangular blocks in the following picture:



    They cost about $5 apiece, and can be ordered by calling Hotchkis and telling them that you need replacements for your HSS-2280 kit. Don't forget to order two. Their purpose is to level out the stepped sway bar mounting locations that the CTS-V has in the front, permitting you to use any universal sway bar bracket you want.
  2. Two M10x1.5-65mm Class 12.9 socket head cap screws. Amazon sells a pair of them for $11 here. As you can probably surmise via the picture below, the M10 fasteners that Hotchkis provides are too short to pass through the stand-offs.

  3. A decent 13/32" (10.3188mm) drill bit to enlarge two of the washers that Hotchkis provides and two of the slots in the brackets. This is necessary, since the unthreaded portions of those M10x1.5-65mm screws are very slightly wider than the holes/slots they have to pass through. Personally, I used this cobalt 13/32" drill bit to enlarge the holes/slots. You can see the (slight) difference before/after in the above picture--the washer on the left was modified and the one on the right is normal size.


    A pair of the Hotchkis washers, after being enlarged slightly


    I passed one of the M10 bolts through both of the modified washers to show how nicely they fit

Hope this helps!
 
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top