Thanks! So are Ferodo HT1000 the OEM pads? I remember I priced both the oems from Lindsay and the HPS when I put on all new brakes a couple years ago and they were pretty much the same price so I went HPS since I thought it would be an upgrade. But I hate the soft initial bite like you said and have been regretting me since. I'm a little gun shy to test something else, but I'll read that review. Maybe it will sway me.
Awesome, thanks guys. I'm going to try the hp+. I want that initial bite. Another autocross friend recommends them as well. Those brembos are way better than the HPS.
The Hawk HP+ squealed at little on mine with stock front rotors but went absolutely and permanently silent once I installed 2-piece rotors. The dust accumulates a little more quickly than with stock pads, but has had no adverse effect on the stock wheel finish.
My only guess is that you're not letting the car sit in the rain with dust on the wheels. Once the dust solidifies, only Sonax or mild hydrochloric acid will remove it.
I've been running a set of HP+ pads front and rear for about two years I believe. I'm going to say that both the positive and negative views of the pads both have some merit. These pads do have great initial bite, and they make an excellent light duty track pad that can be driven year round on the street. However, they do make an incredible amount of dust. If you let the wheels go wash-free for more than a week, there will be a significant layer of dark brake dust that looks awful. I haven't had any problems with wheel finish damage, but I tend to wash the car fairly often. As far as squeal goes, it's definitely there on light brake applications. Hardly noticeable for about a month, softly there after about another month, and it becomes a very high pitched squeal a few months after that. Some have the squeal and others don't. I actually only get it from my front pads. For an aggressive street pad, I would highly recommend them. However I'll be getting a set of dedicated track pads this summer, and these HP+ pads will be replaced by something a little less dusty.
Do me a favor and compress that module with your hands all the way down because that it how it fits in the tank. That horseshoe component almost touches the lid when inserted into the tank. Just saying, you have to design/fit with those springs compressed verses fully elongated.
Somewhere in these pages I took diameter measurements of the opening of the fuel tank - that module has to be very compact to squeeze in there.
Hey Fuzzy, if your glue doesn't hold up try this: http://www.amazon.com/Loctite-1363118-0-85-Ounce-Plastic-Syringe/dp/B0044FBB8C/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1390307751&sr=8-2&keywords=plastic+epoxy
It smells pretty awful. Just a small application had my whole basement smelling like epoxy fumes.
I'm sure you could get it at your local hardware store.
It's supposed to melt plastic back together; but that depends on the type of plastic.
If that doesn't work, I wonder if you could go into the plumbing area and try one of the plastic pipe cements, seems they have like 10 different types of glue in that area in my local store.
Sevillian, that epoxy is a good suggestion, and you're right--it smells something terrible. I believe I have some already--I'll give it a shot on the hole in the lid tonight. It's nice and thick, so it shouldn't have trouble filling in holes up to 3/8" in diameter.
I left out check valves with my fuel design because I didn't think I would need them. The pumps have check valves but there is a path from the jet pump that leads to the driver's side tank. So basically, overnight my fuel line drains too much for the the OEM prime sequence to sufficiently do its job. I decided to install a new fuel filter that has a check valve incorporated.
Here is the filter with the first design. It is a Holley 162-555 which does not have a check valve - worse is that it isn't even a EFI filter because it's 40 microns! It was an oversight.
Here is the Holley, OEM, and new replacement Fuelab 84802-2 - 848 series with integrate check valve and 10 microns which is good for EFI. Here are the following diameters:
Holley - 1.96875"
OEM - 2.14063"
Fuelab - 2.12500"
So basically the Fuelab filter will fit in the OEM fuel filter bracket. Although the Fuelab filter did come with a nice bracket - I'm still using OEM because I like it better.
I had to cut the back side to open it up and fit the filter in there then plastic welded it back together - just as strong or stronger than original, trust me!
New filter, new fitment issues. So the left side is the OEM mounting location. The right side is the one I made and used rivet-nuts 1/4-20.
Perfect fitment and all done in less than a hour - took longer uploading to photobucket and writing this information here.
Looks pretty good, although I hope that bracket holds. It looks like it's bending in that last picture, but maybe it's just the angle. Did you start the car tonight so that you can check it tomorrow?
I'm prepping for the ATI damper but I tested the fuel priming sequence - fully primes and holds pressure! The OEM fuel bracket is sound - there is great support perpendicular and slight movement laterally that works to my benefit. The fuel lines have some slack and need a little wiggle room so lateral (horizontal) movement is good - you can slide it to that sweet spot. It's not loose but you can manipulate it - the fuel filter bracket supports the brakes lines, fuel vapor line and of course the filter so it isn't going anywhere!
Basically fully supported and best part...it works!
Quick update: replacement GeForce inner axle stubs arriving this week. As a result, center section will be finished this week. I will be replacing straight 1/4" hose barb vent with larger, 3/8" 90-degree barb and one foot length of Gates hose. This will provide better ventilation and greatly ease draining/filling the center section with oil.
Fuel bucket is 90% complete. Only waiting on one more 1' length of Gates hose and two 10mm barb fittings. It will rotate 75 degrees as long as I wait to tighten the primary pump feed line until bucket is in tank. If I was willing to use accordion-style hose, this would not be necessary. Cutting the horseshoe was necessary to allow lid to compress far enough.
Researched and ordered (what I consider to be) the best replacement parking brake kit available for our car. Wagner PAB784 ThermoQuiet ceramic complete kit. Costs $42 on Amazon. Also ordered two CTS-V2 UCAs. Will probably wait until they arrive to install brake system. Do not want to drill out stock spindles if not necessary.
In related news, I will be fabricating one-piece 6061-T6 spindle ducts/heat shields for both V1 spindles and STS-V spindles. Round section will be laser cut 0.090" stock (2.286mm), which provides almost ideal (2.500" is ideal) spacing between spindle and hub for V2 calipers and 370x34 RacingBrake rotors. 3" diameter, 0.065"-thick round 6061-T6 tubing will be welded to the round section. Complete assembly will be sent to powdercoater for flat or satin black treatment, and then ball joint "ears" will be wrapped in DEI Reflect-a-Gold. Outer diameter of round section will account for coefficient of thermal expansion of aluminum up to 1000F to avoid contact with rotor.
I decided to use two large Delphi FS0091 fuel strainers. The trick to get them both in the bucket is to lay the first one flat in the bottom, and then take the second one and wedge it between the first strainer and the pump. On the rounded end of the bucket, fold the strainer under the primary pump to keep it from interfering from the Gates hoses as they exit the bucket.
Second filter laid in place. Note how one end is folded under the primary pump's feed line hose clamp.
Second pump installed
In order to get the bucket halves mostly closed, I had to make a cutout for the secondary power connector. The way the fuel strainers are clocked (see the picture below) rotates the pumps about 15 degrees away from flat and level. As you'll see below, I wasn't able to get the lid perfectly clamped on because the electrical connector was in the way.
Notch in the bottom half
Both halves fitted together, showing how top and bottom sections have been clearanced
I didn't clearance the upper half of the bucket enough, but it's pretty close in this picture
Showing how far the bucket closes. It's good enough, but I want to clearance it some more and add a worm gear clamp to take the pressure off the pop tabs.
Because I could, I enlarged the bucket's fuel pickup in four steps from 19/64" (7.54mm) to 11/32" (8.73mm). Might enhance suction. Might not. Either way, it took five minutes.
Enlarging the fuel bucket pickup. Note how I marked the drill bit with a Sharpie to tell me how far I could drill.
The thing in the following picture still bugs me. It's like fuel sprinkler that waters down the pumps from above. Because I had several buckets, I had several designs to choose from.
A little bit of yellow (fuel-resistant) PTFE tape coated in Permatex 85420 Permashield (fuel resistant sealant) to improve the connection to the "sprinkler."
I like it! So you see the need for a worm gear to reinforce the bucket after shoving 2 fuel pumps in there??? lol Looks like you used 16awg that came with the kit - if so, I did too. It's a short distance and I ran 10awg to the relay - all good
Yep. With two pumps in there, it took quite a bit of force to close the clamshell halves. Even though the tabs along the sides are holding firm, I don't want to take the chance that a huge bump pops them loose. If one tab goes, they'll all go. And yes, I used the 16 AWG wiring. Still debating between 10 AWG dedicated for the fuel system, and 1/0 AWG for the fuel/audio system. Regardless, I still plan to run power down the driver's side rail, and fuel down the passenger's side rail.
I'll have more pictures when the fittings come in. Right now, the Gates hoses are mostly uncut and flopping about.
I've answered similar questions two or three times already, but yes, the feed line will be -12AN.
The basis for the system was the 1000 LPH, ORB-12 Aeromotive 11102 Pro-Series pump (which is what I would need to build a surge tank setup). From there, I built outward, selecting parts for compatibility and flow resistance. I tried to keep all fittings under 45 degrees, and where space wouldn't allow that (i.e. the fuel bucket bulkhead fittings), I went up a size to ensure that the pressure drop around the bend was minimized.
Just finished building the Geforce 9" center section. Hoooooooly s**t. With two quarts of oil and the inner stubs attached, the center section weighs 127.2 lbs. The axles, outer stubs, and associated fasteners will add another 46.2 lbs. The PST 3.75" carbon fiber driveshaft with coupler and fasteners weighs 18.2 lbs, bringing the total for the Geforce 9" up to a whopping 191.6 lbs.
Looks like I solved my weight distribution problem! :bigroll: The stock CTS-V with its 54/46 split becomes 52/48, once you account for the deletion of the 55 lb OEM Getrag differential. The OEM driveshaft weighs 28 lbs, but it's distributed across 2/3 of the car, a weight change there doesn't affect much. I don't know what the stock axles weigh.
Yeah. Interestingly, the aluminum version of the Strange Engineering case only reduces the weight by 15 lbs while decreasing gear lifetime. I have the 450 lb Harbor Freight jack, which can raise and lower the OEM subframe with everything attached. To avoid destroying the jack with the Geforce 9" in place, I'm probably going to have to lighten the subframe by stripping the rotors, hubs, sway bar, and control arms off.
Working late tonight...needed a break and figured I'd throw a couple of pictures up here.
The top control arm was cleaned with Prosoco Sure Klean 600. The bottom control has been scrubbed with soap/water and brake cleaner, to little avail.
The following pictures demonstrate my semi-quick and easy way to press fit new wheel studs. Insert three studs as far as they will go and rotate the flange until their heads are under the threaded holes. Thread three bolts down on top of them. Then, on a carpeted surface, set the hub face down. With a wrench on one bolt, your foot braced against another bolt, and your other hand grabbing the third, you can use the screw to press in the stud below.
Ready to rock
Annnnnd....the hub is halfway populated!
These are just some quick, documentation pictures I took as I continued the Geforce 9" build. When I feel like muscling the assembled center section back on the table, I'll take some better pictures of it.
Finally ready to assemble
I replaced the 1/4" barb with a 3/8" 90 degree barb fitting and a length of Gates submersible hose to ease oil changes later
It's hard to see the fitting...one of the disadvantages of black on black on black
Short driver side inner stub
Long passenger side inner stub
Permatex Ultra Black. Messy. A few minutes earlier, I was cursing the fact that I threw away the pointed nozzle.
Passenger side stub port
Driver side stub port
The only advice I can give you when assembling the center section halves is that you should invert the Strange Engineering S-Trac and lay the Geforce case on top of it. There's no way to do this the other way around without pinching your fingers. If you try to pick up the S-Trac via the driveshaft coupler and hover it over the case, it will tilt hopelessly to one side because the center of gravity is off-kilter. Thankfully, the inner stubs are straightforward--they'll slide in with a few dozen taps of a rubber mallet.
Oh, and before I forget, the Geforce instructions do not specify torque specifications for ANY of the bolts. I looked up standard torque specs for 3/8"-16 bolts and tightened everything I could to 45 ft-lbs with blue Loctite. The inner stubs bolts are positioned such that you can't get a torque wrench on them, so I just tightened them down as hard as I could with a box wrench. Later, I contacted Chris @ Geforce and he said that 45 ft-lbs is a good torque number.
Strange Engineering S-Trac and inner stubs installed
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