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2004-2007 Cadillac CTS-V Performance Mods Discussion, pig in slop in Cadillac CTS-V Series Forum - 2004 - 2007; Originally Posted by FuzzyLogic Fair enough. Until then, the ass end of the car is going to be unsupportive around ...
  1. #166
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    Re: pig in slop

    Quote Originally Posted by FuzzyLogic View Post
    Fair enough. Until then, the ass end of the car is going to be unsupportive around corners. So hurry up--they're only $170 (he says to the guy that's $500 in front of him on the fuel system and $5000 in front of him on the differential)!

    Also, before one of us (or both of us) forgets, what kind of brackets did you end up using to attach your hoses to the underbody? Also, I'm thinking about installing separators at intervals down the line to keep the runs clean. Probably something like this, or something with a little bit better clampage on the ends like this. Do you think it's worth the money?
    I looked at that...seriously, I considered a host of options for functionality and aesthetics. Sometimes you have to take a simple approach and use what works which is what I decided in the end. I used Jegs rivet nut kit, extra fasteners from Jegs, Jegs -6AN Adel clamps, and Jegs -8AN Adel clamps.

    The idea is to get the fuel lines away from rubbing the curb with any set-up and I hugged the brake lines closely but did not rely on the brake/stock OEM holsters. Room is very limited. I cannot recommend those fuel line components in your links.
    FuzzyLogic likes this.

  2. #167
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    Re: pig in slop

    Mfer...seems my vacuum manifold is back ordered - phuckin import world gobbled them up!

    So here's my hobb's switch (2psi pressure switch) and LED lights (I ordered 2).



    I absolutely love the silicone 1/2" line...used this in previous stuff, such quality!


    This is just prep for boost. The LEDs are for indication for the secondary fuel pump and the hose is to replace the OEM brake booster junk and splice for the vacuum manifold.

  3. #168
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    Re: pig in slop

    That looks like this product from Racetronix. Is that correct?

  4. #169
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    Re: pig in slop

    Quote Originally Posted by FuzzyLogic View Post
    That looks like this product from Racetronix. Is that correct?
    That looks like the same but I didn't buy it from Racetronix.

    I got it from LSxTune.com.

  5. #170
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    Re: pig in slop

    I purchased the LED indicator and switches from Oznium.com

    1. LED indicator
    2. LED switch

    The idea is to have indication of the secondary pump. The LED switch is to override the Hobbs switch. I plan to wire the secondary fuel pump off the "turn-on" power a.k.a. ignition power wire lead as the trigger wire for the relay.

    So basically, when the second pump comes on, I get a light. If I want to force the second pump on, I can control that with a push button.

  6. #171
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    Re: pig in slop

    I like the idea of having a LED for the second pump, but I'm not sure whether you'll need the button outside of setup diagnostics.

    Btw, I just got a whole bunch of miscellaneous parts for the fuel system in the mail:

    - Various size hose clamps
    - 0.032" lock wire
    - More Dremel accessories and bits
    - Two 1 ft lengths of 5/16" and 3/8" Gates Submersible hose, each
    - Aeroquip FCM3661 aluminum vise jaw inserts
    - 3/8" and 1/2" x 25' Drossbach split loom
    - Aeromotive 15633 gauge (not a fan of its looks)
    - Grizzly G7062 5" bench vise to replace the one I broke doing the Revshift mounts...this thing is huge!

    My strategy is to work my way out of the bucket. As it turns out, it's basically impossible to find submersible hose bigger than 3/8" and smaller than 1-1/2". I looked at the return in the bucket and was impressed at how strong that nozzle was, so I was hoping to get a hold of some 5/8" hose. Anyway, more as I know more. Progress has been slow because of work and because I'm multi-tasking on a couple of other CTS-V projects.

  7. #172
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    Re: pig in slop

    I recognize a lot on that list! I believe your background is electrical but here's a few more that I find essential:

    1. Raychem Much better than shrink tubing since this has an adhesive layer.
    2. Butane soldering iron & flat tip
    3. Kester 63/37 solder

    The LED switch for the secondary fuel pump is to bypass the Hobbs (pressure switch) for any reason that might come up. I find it very comforting that I can push a button and activate full fuel flow. The LED light indication for the secondary pump is an absolute necessity. I'm looking at the fold-out faux ashtray in front of the shifter as a possible place for the switch and indicator.

    I think you will be fine with 3/8" submersible. I personally used 5/16" (in tank) which I imagine will create a small pressure zone at the exit to the bucket which is fine. Without any real world data (and won't have any as the weather gets colder) I won't know what the cooling effect will be if any at all. What I mean is directly dumping the return in the bucket vs. dumping to the tank instead. I just want to keep the bucket filled. The other side of the tank should not be affected and should mix with the hotter return gas as it continues to flow in the system with the primary pump hooked up to the jet pump (Venturi effect).

    I think it's fairly obvious that doing a return system will create more heat vs. returnless systems. My knowledge is that the PWM varies voltage to those systems for high/low duty on the fuel pump which also cuts down on heat. I don't have a backup plan if my fuel gets too hot - largely because the DW300s are medium size pumps and don't think I'll run into any issues. I noticed when I tested the DW300 pump that it gradually comes to full speed while the Walbro 255 was almost instant - like a buffer to limit torque on the DW300. This was part of the reason for choosing a Hobbs switch with a lower pressure setting.

    I'm still waiting on my vacuum manifold to complete the install - this will tell me where to run my wires for the secondary pump trigger and bypass switch etc.

  8. #173
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    Re: pig in slop

    More pics:

    Here's some profile pics on the BLOX vacuum manifold. Apparently the color black is back-ordered so I settled for silver.




    Installed the fittings.



    Drilled and installed rivet nuts to secure the vacuum manifold.


    Mounted the vacuum manifold and spliced into the brake booster.




    The pics don't show the depth but with the Hobbs switch, it has tons of clearance and does not interfere with any of the other lines. I plan to use the additional ports when the boost comes. I'll go into the wiring once everything is tested and I'm satisfied with the results.

  9. #174
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    Re: pig in slop

    Here is where I mounted the LED switch (secondary pump override) and LED indication for secondary pump activation:









    This way I don't sacrifice the use of the factory outlet plug and the ashtray can be used to mount my AFR gauge when the time comes.

    ***Edit***
    Here's a pic showing the 6pin molex connector - wanted to include this important detail.

  10. #175
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    Re: pig in slop

    Looking good. Shame that there wasn't an easy way to strap a RTD or IC-based temperature sensor to the surface of the fuel pumps to monitor their temperature. By the way, do you remember what you used to cap the OEM bucket's ports?

    I ordered the soldering gear you recommended--I have a standard 115 VAC soldering iron, but liked the idea of a portable one. Also bought an Earl's 10AN, 90 degree bulkhead connector (AT983310ERL) to test clearance with. I believe a 90 degree fitting has a lower profile than using a straight bulkhead fitting + 90 degree adapter. There's no extra nut, as these two pictures suggest:





    For the return line fitting at the bucket, I picked up a 3/8" barb to 1/4" NPT 45 degree fitting and a 1/4"-18 NPT tap. For the outbound feed lines, the jury's still out. The diameter of the DW300 outlet is just a touch small for 3/8" hose, so I might run 5/16" hose. I'd really like to go 3/8" into 1/2" NPT, and from there to AN-style fittings. But the idea of trying to clamp hose that tight seems like a bad idea.

  11. #176
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    Re: pig in slop

    Quote Originally Posted by FuzzyLogic View Post
    Looking good. Shame that there wasn't an easy way to strap a RTD or IC-based temperature sensor to the surface of the fuel pumps to monitor their temperature. By the way, do you remember what you used to cap the OEM bucket's ports?
    Thanks! I finally got all the under-the-hood wired up. I soldered all the connectors.. even the crimped ones for added strength. To answer your question I used some vacuum caps that I picked up from Advance Auto and used a cheapo plastic welder and plastic welding rods from Harbor Freight. To keep the vacuum caps on there I used Goop. All that after I cut the tips off. You also have to install the fuel tank lock ring before you install the bulkhead fittings. Don't forget this detail!!!

    I ordered the soldering gear you recommended--I have a standard 115 VAC soldering iron, but liked the idea of a portable one. Also bought an Earl's 10AN, 90 degree bulkhead connector (AT983310ERL) to test clearance with. I believe a 90 degree fitting has a lower profile than using a straight bulkhead fitting + 90 degree adapter. There's no extra nut, as these two pictures suggest:
    That butane soldering iron is the absolute best portable I have ever used - you will not regret it! Painfully I went through several types of solder in my early days and that link I gave is the easiest stuff to work with and makes a very strong connection. Regarding the Earl's fitting, I like name brand too but Summit will nickel/dime you if/when you start to straggle fittings as you piece it all together. I used your recommendation and purchased almost all my fittings/hoses from ebay and the shipping was fast and free! I found no difference in quality over Earl's - yet.


    For the return line fitting at the bucket, I picked up a 3/8" barb to 1/4" NPT 45 degree fitting and a 1/4"-18 NPT tap. For the outbound feed lines, the jury's still out. The diameter of the DW300 outlet is just a touch small for 3/8" hose, so I might run 5/16" hose. I'd really like to go 3/8" into 1/2" NPT, and from there to AN-style fittings. But the idea of trying to clamp hose that tight seems like a bad idea.
    I like that 45 degree fitting, it looks like a perfect fit/angle for the return into the bucket when you tap that port. Regarding the hose size for the feeds, you are going to get a pressure drop no matter if it is a 5/16 or 3/8 as it enters the main fuel line of a -10 and will shortly stabilize to a nice laminar flow up to the fuel rails. Either one will be fine but I would install what is convenient. Those corrugated flex lines I used make installing the bucket much easier and it will only fit on 5/16 barb/nipple.

    My thoughts are if you use anything other than those flexible corrugated lines for the feeds from the pumps, the bucket will not fit into the tank - it is a damn tight fit! Then again, I haven't seen your design.

  12. #177
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    Re: pig in slop

    I like the bulkhead fittings from fore Innovations. Too bad they only support 2009+ cts-v's.



    My fuel module work makes me look like a shoe-maker compared to their product.

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    Re: pig in slop

    That's gorgeous.

  14. #179
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    Re: pig in slop

    Ok brake bleeding is the absolute suck on this platform with a hand pump Mityvac. I feel like pop-eye as it gave my forearms a workout. I lost a lot of my brake fluid from disengaging the passenger side brake line when I dropped the cradle.

    I'll be firing it up this weekend and crossing my fingers all goes well. Gonna set the regulator to 58psi. I won't be driving it until I install the ATI Superdamper. I ordered the pinning kit, ARP bolt and install tool from Coloradospeed.

    Not far down the road I'll be installing the PLX-DM6 gauge AFR combo (UEGO) in the ashtray location. I have the materials to start on the fab work. This will be in conjunction with the HP Tuners - apparently you have to purchase the HP Tuners Pro edition to enable the wideband for datalogging and integrate it with the rest of the system. All that crap is gonna retail ~$800 so it can wait. The only added sensor I can think to add is the PLX fuel module perhaps EGT down the road. The benefit with the DM-6 gauge is that you only use one gauge for multiple inputs...keeps it clean, no ridiculous pods cluttering the interior.

  15. #180
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    Re: pig in slop

    First and foremost... Excellent thread with alot of real good information.

    I have a couple of questions. I'm currently having fuel pump issues and I believe you will have some insight on this since you've run thru this before.
    My question is... does the Racetronix wiring kit replace the ground that is used on the stock harness, or does it simply add another ground? Or what exactly does the additional ground add-on for the racetronix apply to?

    I believe I have a bad ground thats causing intermittent problems with starting the car. Occasionally I lose all fuel pressure, and while the car will crank and crank, it will not start. I'm hoping to troubleshoot and locate the issue. I've already had the tank dropped twice and cut an access door. I may go your route on the gasket, but I should have access to material to cut the door cover myself and possibly use aluminum tape afterwards.

    I'm on a budget, but after talking with Fuzzy, I plan on going with the racetronix kit, 1 dw300, and the #11 kit. I plan on picking up a used bucket and building on that. I'll be running the racetronix kit as done on here, underneath the car.

    Sorry to interrupt the thread with that. Just figured I'd ask since alot of the parts were relevant here.

    [2006 CTS-V - "The Vee Baby Seamus"] - 372rwhp / 361rwtq
    Pacesetters | Off Road Adapters | Cutouts | Stock Airbox | Stock Catback
    BMR AWK | CS Diff Block | Short Shifter | UMI MM | Revshift TM

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