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2004-2007 Cadillac CTS-V Performance Mods Discussion, pig in slop in Cadillac CTS-V Series Forum - 2004 - 2007; Okay, clutch issue solved. I just needed to pump the pedal a few more times with the system buttoned up. ...
  1. #151
    FuzzyLogic is offline Banned
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    Re: pig in slop

    Okay, clutch issue solved. I just needed to pump the pedal a few more times with the system buttoned up. It's a little less perfect than I'd like, but I'm going to run a quart through the system this weekend to see if I can get everything working perfectly. If I succeed, I'll do a PSA on the Earl's and Russel bleeders for your remote line and caliper nipples.

    The good news is that the sound dampening / heat insulation layer works. Extremely well. It cut every sound the transmission made in half. And whereas previously I would place my hand on the shifter boot and feel heat rising from the tunnel area, after an aggressive 30 minute run, I felt nothing. The leather was at cabin ambient temperature.

  2. #152
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    Re: pig in slop

    Quote Originally Posted by FuzzyLogic View Post
    The good news is that the sound dampening / heat insulation layer works. Extremely well. It cut every sound the transmission made in half. And whereas previously I would place my hand on the shifter boot and feel heat rising from the tunnel area, after an aggressive 30 minute run, I felt nothing. The leather was at cabin ambient temperature.
    Awesome! I've never noticed heat rising from the tunnel area from the shifter boot though - at least not enough to bring it to my attention.

    I just covered the spare tire well with the RattleTrap stuff - I have a ton of it and it worked very well on my other car cutting down drone, so can't hurt. It's the first application mitigating the resonance. I'm looking into your other suggestions Fuzz...just trying to work through the mess putting everything back together.

    As far as that "shade-tree" technique removing the pilot bearing - I have no experience with it but I know about it and came to my own conclusion not to do it either. A robust slide hammer and a lot of patience would be my personal preference. I've done things others have protested such as pressing bearings by applying block of wood and hammer taps when a small amount of force is required - it's what you are comfortable doing and accepting the risks.

    ***Edit***
    I just ordered that fender cover, man this thread has all the elements of "retail therapy".

  3. #153
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    Re: pig in slop

    I think the transmission tunnel can get pretty damn hot--especially if you have headers. We'll know for certain once I check that Omega strip. During my shakedown cruise at Slowhawk, I was riding shotgun and holding the HP Tuners laptop while Don drove. IIRC, my EGTs were in the 1000-1200F range. Makes me think I should shield the transmission from the cats before I consider installing a transmission oil cooler.

    Another note in the sound department: the sound damper definitely cleans up the sound of the exhaust within the cabin. It's subtle, but appreciable. During my initial drive, from within the cabin, I noticed that my exhaust sounded different--cleaner/deeper--but given the number of modifications I had made, I was concentrating on testing the car and listening for any signs of installation error before it became a problem. Tonight, however, I was free to enjoy the drive and realized that what I had "heard" earlier was actually a lack of gear noise from the transmission. Don't get me wrong--my T56 is in good condition and would have been considered a quiet-running unit before. But with the damper installed, that noise was barely detectable, making it just a little easier to hear the engine and the exhaust instead.

  4. #154
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    Re: pig in slop

    It's about time for some pics:

    Here is the spare tire area wrapped with "RattleTrap Extreme" resonance barrier. This went from sounding like a bass drum to a dull thud.


    Here are the Banski RSM installed on the bottom. In the middle is all the stuff taken off if installed with the standard KW V3 kit with OEM rubber etc. On the top is what was removed.

  5. #155
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    Re: pig in slop

    Nice and neat there on the trunk. Our jobs there look very similar. Out of curiosity, when do you think you'll have a chance to take this thing for a drive?

  6. #156
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    Re: pig in slop

    Quote Originally Posted by FuzzyLogic View Post
    Nice and neat there on the trunk. Our jobs there look very similar. Out of curiosity, when do you think you'll have a chance to take this thing for a drive?
    Thanks! Had some unplanned interruptions that is causing me to split my time - Barber's Motorsports et al. I expect at least another week since my weekend if filling up fast. I've only had time to tinker late at night. I also just got an ATI super damper in and want to install that while I got stuff tore apart.

    Any suggestions what to combine while installing the ATI damper?

  7. #157
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    Re: pig in slop

    Quote Originally Posted by philistine View Post
    Any suggestions what to combine while installing the ATI damper?
    If you're planning on doing a motor swap in the next year, there's not much you *should* do. If that were not the case, I would say that this is a perfect time to do a cam, pin the crank, replace the timing chain with a Katech C5-R, upgrade to a LS2 chain damper using the TrickFlow TFS-30675600 adapter kit, install a high volume oil pump, and either a LS3 water pump or Meziere 300 Series.

    This is all I could think of:
    • If you're going to pull the bumper, consider a Fluidyne FHP-10029 power steering cooler. This is the successor to the FHP-10026 identified in the CTS-V FAQ page. I replaced my cooler in the March-April timeframe and have been pleased by its performance. Without it, my CTS-V was like a magical brown fluid maker. Clear fluid in, turn the wheel, all brown. Back then, eBay seller accepted my offer of $28, but when I told other people on this forum about it, a whole bunch of people made the same offer and he raised his price. Maybe he's come down again. For fluid, I usually use Redline power steering fluid (#30405).
    • If you wanted to upgrade to an Alradco, or do a better alternator, this would probably be a good time. But you'll have another opportunity for both when/if you do the motor swap.
    • Speaking of radiator, since you're going to be flushing your fluids, I'd recommend picking up a bottle or two of Redline Water Wetter. It's certainly not as awesome as AMSOIL Dominator, but it's much easier to obtain.

  8. #158
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    Re: pig in slop

    That's a nice list of "to-do's"! Really appreciate all the info. - good stuff! I have a lot of that already. You raise a very good point...why invest in a block that you are replacing anyways. I should be replacing the block around April-June time frame. The LSX is on my mind for it's boost friendly design but will be exploring my options.

  9. #159
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    Re: pig in slop

    If he has time, I think that PISNUOFF can provide valuable feedback regarding engine builds. If I recall correctly, he had a Texas Speed 418 CID LS3 go south on him and responded by having a reputable engine builder construct one of the most durable, boost-ready 427 LSX short blocks I've seen. I was all gung-ho on the idea of buying an aluminum 416 CID LS3 with LSA heads until I talked to him and started to look at the different ways that aluminum and iron respond to the kind of heat associated with 18-20 PSI of boost.

    If you think about it, atmospheric pressure is 14.7 PSI and you're more than doubling that in the cylinders. Assuming you hold your AFR constant, you're going to be delivering more than double the amount of fuel to each cylinder. That's hot--way hotter than your normal production engine and materials were designed to withstand. Even if you build your cooling system up to compensate, the thermal impedance of the materials between the coolant and the combustion chambers is fixed (relatively speaking); materials close to the combustion chamber will be much hotter than before and must be capable of withstanding this heat without softening, deforming, cracking, or buckling.

  10. #160
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    Re: pig in slop

    More pics:

    Figured I'd get a rear shot after the cradle is bolted back up.


    Brakes & rotors installed.


    My fuel lines.




    I decided to run the hotwire(s) for the fuel pump along the same path as the fuel lines. After a lot of asking around, it's very common and none have run into issues.

  11. #161
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    Re: pig in slop

    Looking good. What kind of coating do you have on the underbody?

  12. #162
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    Re: pig in slop

    Quote Originally Posted by FuzzyLogic View Post
    Looking good. What kind of coating do you have on the underbody?
    Thanks! My fuel line pics gets me a little exposed to critique but decided to do it anyways. It's tucked where no rubbing can occur from the road. I separated the electrical lines from the fuel lines running top & bottom and all is wrapped with Thermotec sleeving in proximity to the headers. The hotwires are secured in high temp flex loom. I used a combination of SS tie wraps and the typical plastic and used the Adel clamps for redundancy securing all the fresh lines.

    I'm not in a snow state - factory coating for the underbody.

  13. #163
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    Re: pig in slop

    Psssst...you forgot the 896 in-lb Swift springs!

  14. #164
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    Re: pig in slop

    Quote Originally Posted by FuzzyLogic View Post
    Psssst...you forgot the 896 in-lb Swift springs!
    I know right! I figure after "break-in" I'll order and install them otherwise this car isn't ever getting back on the road! The springs are in budget

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    Re: pig in slop

    Quote Originally Posted by philistine View Post
    I know right! I figure after "break-in" I'll order and install them otherwise this car isn't ever getting back on the road! The springs are in budget
    Fair enough. Until then, the ass end of the car is going to be unsupportive around corners. So hurry up--they're only $170 (he says to the guy that's $500 in front of him on the fuel system and $5000 in front of him on the differential)!

    Also, before one of us (or both of us) forgets, what kind of brackets did you end up using to attach your hoses to the underbody? Also, I'm thinking about installing separators at intervals down the line to keep the runs clean. Probably something like this, or something with a little bit better clampage on the ends like this. Do you think it's worth the money?

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