Maggie install started - Page 3
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2004-2007 Cadillac CTS-V Performance Mods Discussion, Maggie install started in Cadillac CTS-V Series Forum - 2004 - 2007; Originally Posted by wildwhl I bet two guys together with at least 12 Fat Tires or 6 Irish car bombs ...
  1. #31
    lawfive's Avatar
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    Re: Maggie install started

    Quote Originally Posted by wildwhl
    I bet two guys together with at least 12 Fat Tires or 6 Irish car bombs could manage start to finish in 6 hours. Just a guess, but it wouldn't surprise me.
    12 Fat Tires = 6 hours
    24 Fat Tires = 18 hours :drinker :drinker

  2. #32
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    Re: Maggie install started

    This weekend I prepped (installed, actually, and disabled) the fuel booster while I was screwing around with a new subwoofer setup

    Anyone here (blownchevy) want to describe to me precisely what the booster is doing with the pump? Increasing voltage and allowing greater current draw?

    3 Guiness down :drinker and questions abound

  3. #33
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    Re: Maggie install started

    Iím down to holding out for CARB cert for the í05 before purchase. Will my StealthVís C5 covers still fit with SC installed?

  4. #34
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    Re: Maggie install started

    Dennisscars-

    They will need to be modified...I'm working on templates with this install.

    V is back, new rear diff sounds tight, clunk in driveline is 98% gone with the "upgraded bushing" that cost me $102.16...but I guess worth it.

    Off to Vegas this weekend for the races...will have to get back to install the following weekend and wrap it up

  5. #35
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    Re: Maggie install started

    Great! They are must have item in my book. Thanks!

    Do you have the upgrade bushing and the BMR pinion support too?

    I put the brace on @ 500 miles and much happier with the way it shifts.

  6. #36
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    Re: Maggie install started

    The upgrade bushing is what was installed today. I previously removed all aftermarket components returning the V to basically stock configuration, so the P/S is not on at this time...but I must say, no clunk (yet).

    Also, no whine, but hey, it only has been <50 miles and all very, very, easy miles as the first 500+ will be

  7. #37
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    Re: Maggie install started

    Camera - Check.
    Parts complete - Check.
    12 pack in the fridge - whoops - only 4 - Guiness, that'll work - Check.
    Rear Diff Broke In? Well, 434 miles is close enough - Check.
    Rear Diff fluid swap - if time permits.
    Time to install - couple of hours from now.

    Will post results later tonight.

    I swapped wheels and tires yesterday to the "other" set which has relatively new runflats on them. Figure I'd rather waste those than the GSD3's. By the way - over 5,000 miles on the GSD3's and they look like new in front and only slightly (ab)used in the rear. Also, I do NOT have the BMR bar in place at the moment, only FG2 and properly torqued cradle bolts (the BMR cradle bushing shims are in place) and wheel hop is minimal

  8. #38
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    Re: Maggie install started

    Quote Originally Posted by wildwhl
    Also, I do NOT have the BMR bar in place at the moment, only FG2 and properly torqued cradle bolts (the BMR cradle bushing shims are in place) and wheel hop is minimal
    Not to threadjack, but this is exactly what i am experiencing. There is no banging anymore and the tires will actually chirp. I got a bit sideways last night from a 20 mph roll and 2nd gear 4K slam w/o stability control and all I heard was spinning with a little discernable hopping of the tires. Not violent but able to leave a nice patch.

    Anyway, good luck with the install and I am leaning towards FI also...Wild, you are giving me the bug dude.

  9. #39
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    Re: Maggie install started

    OK wildwhl, enough of the partying. We are dying to read the results of your Mag SC build. How long did it take to install the Maggie? How much angst did you suffer through? Was it worth it? Did you get enough extra HP to break your 4th rear(or is that the 3rd, I lose count)....etc.

  10. #40
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    Re: Maggie install started

    Geno -

    6 hours, and I'm not quite done but I did drive her

    All in all it went pretty well, but I totally underestimated the time certain items would take, like extending wire harnesses and cleaning up connections.

    The program loaded from the Superchips tuner without issue in about 7 minutes.

    I did run into a few problems. I wasted almost an hour digging around the shop looking for two items that were supposed to be in the kit. They were there, but entirely the incorrect size (needed a 1/4" hose coupler, for the cooling circuit, where a 3/4" coupler was supplied, stuff like that) and instead of just jumping on the bike and jammin' to the nearest autoparts store I had it in my stubborn mind that with all the crap I've collected over the years I must have what I needed. I did, it just took forever to find.

    The S/C is a tight fit, as there are a ton of wire harnesses, fuel and EVAP lines, etc. that run behind the S/C against the firewall. It took some work to get everything tucked away in a manner that wouldn't rub on the rear S/C pulley, but I finally got it.

    I'll give a more detailed write up later, but yes, it seems to be worth it, though the short drive home didn't tell me much. She pulls like a mother...but I really didn't get on her that much. The whine, only there under boost, otherwise you'll think all is stock.

    What didn't I finish? The Intercooler has no electrical connections or water in it yet. Therefore, I noticed some very quick heatsoak even under the light duty test drive conditions I was trying. I'll finish it tomorrow, will only take about 30 minutes, just ran out of time and the family was awaiting my return for dinner (they have no idea what I was up to today).

    So, more tomorrow with the few pics that I actually took. I'll also point out some flaws in the instructions to MagnaCharger so they may correct them in later revisions.

    Wild out for now

  11. #41
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    Re: Maggie install started

    Sounds good! Let me know what you find in the instructions, we are always looking to improve.

  12. #42
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    Re: Maggie install started

    blownchevy -

    They're little things, really, tips more or less.

    For the most part the kit AND instructions are EXCELLENT! The only thing irritating was the missing coolant hose connector and a couple of missing bolts. I also have a little bracket left over and can't seem to figure out where it goes

    It is a small triangular shaped piece about 1" long with a hole in one end and a half round in the other, shiny stamped steel or aluminum (can't recall).

    I also found it very challenging to lift the unit into place by myself (should have had you here, Dreamin) but you cover that quite well in the instructions. I'm just stubborn

    Know where it goes? Can't find it in the instructions...

  13. #43
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    Re: Maggie install started

    Quote Originally Posted by wildwhl
    Geno -

    6 hours, and I'm not quite done but I did drive her

    All in all it went pretty well, but I totally underestimated the time certain items would take, like extending wire harnesses and cleaning up connections.

    I did run into a few problems. I wasted almost an hour digging around the shop looking for two items that were supposed to be in the kit.

    The S/C is a tight fit, as there are a ton of wire harnesses, fuel and EVAP lines, etc. that run behind the S/C against the firewall. It took some work to get everything tucked away in a manner that wouldn't rub on the rear S/C pulley, but I finally got it.

    I'll give a more detailed write up later, but yes, it seems to be worth it, though the short drive home didn't tell me much. She pulls like a mother...but I really didn't get on her that much. The whine, only there under boost, otherwise you'll think all is stock.

    So, more tomorrow with the few pics that I actually took. I'll also point out some flaws in the instructions to MagnaCharger so they may correct them in later revisions.

    Wild out for now
    When I read your first estimate, I thought you were a little overly optimistic. I know about the typical delays that can slow a project down from the many projects I have done. Figuring out the directions, finding parts, locating tools, and the misc items such as dressing the work out can take a lot more time than a first glance would suggest. For first time projects, I usually multiple the estimated time to completion by three (and double that if I'm partaking).

    I'm glad everything's coming together and it will all be worth the pain in the end (not to be confused with pain in the rear end).

  14. #44
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    Re: Maggie install started

    Alright, now she is all finished, and here is my preliminary first draft write up (full blown version to hit the .faq when finished).

    As noted in my initial post the kit is very complete and well organized with instructions that make sense (that means more than some of you know). Everything arrives packed into individual compartments of large plastic bags (hoses, wires, nuts, bolts and clamps) or inside of individual vendor packaging (belt, Superchips tuner, etc.).

    The Maggie unit I have is the powdercoated silver one. Since I drive my car daily, the upkeep on polished components under the hood is entirely outside the realm of reality for me...and to be honest, a black powdercoated unit might be pretty damn tasty too (just a thought Magnuson).

    I had vehicle repair issues to time the install around, so I broke it down in stages.

    Stage 1 - about 2 hours.
    Take everything out of the box and do inventory. Lot's of parts and small pieces - but looks like everything is there. Preassemble the components that can be such as reservoir and pump, brackets on the blower, and air intake. Modify the windshield wipers for clearance - instructions are excellent but watch pulling the wiper arms off as they were very tight on my car. I used an open end wrench to pry underneath the arms.OK, truth be told, I'm just itching to get going on this thing and had to fondle the parts

    Stage 2 - about 2 hours.
    Drop the front lower splash guard, pull the radiator and fans, and pin the crank and install the reservoir and heat exchanger. Pinning the crank sounds nasty, but is really quite easy. I used a small right angle air drill and it took about 10 minutes once I had access. The instructions indicate pulling the front fascia, but I found this isn't absolutely necessary if you're willing to work upside down for a while. I placed the front of the vehicle on the jackstands as high as I could for the install of the res. and h/e. Ran into a little trouble in two areas:
    1) The radiator isn't as simple to pull as the instructions would suggest. There are plastic rivets holding the radiator to some flexible plastic shroud pieces. You'll have to get crafty at removing these rivets as they are between the radiator and the a/c (condensor?). I used a long 26" or so standard screwdriver to pop the rivets out of their holes or simply sheer them off.
    2) The heat exchanger brackets didn't quite line up in my application. The hole spacing is correct, and size, and all of the correct quality - except - during fabrication it would appear that both brackets weren't welded to the heat exchanger parallel with each other. Fix? Bore the holes out a touch - all four of them. You'll find that the h/e is a tight fit and actually touches several components behind the grill when installed. It is sandwiched between two different a/c components VERY tightly. A bit tricky to get in - but a good design and good fit in the end. I did not install the wiring at this time as that can be accessed from the top of the grill by the hood latch. One thought I had has whether Magnuson considered designing a h/e that filled the lower grill area instead? The reservoir is a no brainer and simply slides in places and tightens up. Hoses between the two are a bit tight, but take your time when cutting them to length and you'll have no problems.

    Stage 3 - less than one hour.
    Fuel pump booster preinstall. Still no rear differential repair yet, but still wanting to make progress on the install so I basically just set the booster in place, wired the ground, and tucked the wires through the grommet and into the wheel well. In the end, I didn't save any time because I had to take the trunk apart again yesterday to finish up, but it satisfied my belief that I made progross for the day

  15. #45
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    Re: Maggie install started

    Stage 4 - final install 7+ hours.
    Can you save time with the help of a friend. Yes. About 2 hours I bet. All started well enough. I pulled the audio fuse and loaded the Superchips tuner program first. 7 minutes later and no error message. Disconnected the battery, and proceeded to drain some fluid from the cooling system (car was still warm but not hot!). I did so by attaching a 3 foot line to the radiator vent (quickly, as coolant will rush out) and letting the pressure force the fluid into a bucket. Pop the cap off the coolant reservoir and you'll get most of the fluid that has to come out for the rest of the operation this way - HOWEVER - if you're going to remove the radiator, you need to drain the system via the lower radiator hose instead. Since I didn't need to remove the radiator at this point, the 1/2 gallon that comes out this way would suffice.

    I then jumped right into pulling the strut tower brace and engine cover. Unplugged all of the various connectors (injectors, sensors, coil packs, etc.). Make sure the plastic wire loom connectors are unplugged or cut from the fuel rails - you won't use them with the blower. The instructions are excellent in this area but do fail to mention the wire loom connectors, but you'll figure it out since there is no way to remove the intake with the 4 or 5 of them in place. Removing the intake manifold and throttle body are no brainers. Fuel line and EVAP line removal tool is included in the kit. Purge lines disconnect exactly as described in the instructions.

    Elapsed time - 1 HOUR! I'm thinking, shiat, no problem, 4 hours a piece of cake.

    I then went to the rear of the car and finished up the fuel pump booster install - again - perfect instructions. I found the kit was missing the velcro described to mount the fuel pump booster with but had some on hand - no big deal. About 30 minutes to complete (including routing the wires under the car and to the engine compartment)

    Elapsed time - 1.5 Hours! I'll be done in 3 more easy!

    Back to the front of the car, pull the coolant vent tube, knock sensor harness, knock sensors and lifter valley baffle (cleaning and covering the intake ports first). Clean everything up and install new lifter valley baffle, strip down factory knock sensor wiring, install and glue in place as per instructions. Install new coolant vent tube but find that the bolts the instructions indicate as being included are not, and in fact the pictures in the instructions show the original factory bolts being reused. Waste 10 minutes digging through all parts to make sure

    Pull the factory belt tensioner off and install new tensioner *with supplied bolts* - again - no bolts and another few minutes of dickin around looking for them. Factory bolts are quite long but work fine.

    Elapsed Time - 2.25 hours.

    UNR game to start (yeah, Ill killed 'em) and I'm getting hungy. Guiness #1 and first half of sandwich down.

    Elapsed Time - 2.5 hours.

    Move to modification of throttle body - again - instructions are perfect. Takes all of 5 minutes to grind down on bench grinder and clean up. Install throttle body onto blower - whoops - bit of a problem here. The coolant vent tubes on the bottom of the throttle body are hitting the blower manifold when in place. Also the fuel line (you've seen it in other photos as a red and blue AN fitting line going over the top of the blower) is run very nicely between the blower and manifold by Magnuson and is hitting the ETC. No mention of either problem in the instructions. Fiddle fart around correcting problem for 15 minutes. Install MAP sensor - basic - but make sure to use the lubricant supplied. Install intake port gaskets - take your time and make sure they are fully in place, running your fingers around pushing them in a few times is all it takes. Check out engine bay to make sure nothing is in the way - looks like fuel line could be, so I reroute it behind a large wire harness bringing the fuel line closer to the firewall and over to the passenger side about 2 inches.

    Elapsed Time - 3.25 hours - time for Guiness #2.

    Now to lift this bad boy in place by myself (I'm all of 5'6" and 160 lbs for those that don't know me, decent upper body strenght from throwing paper everyday for the last 15 years - but a friend is essential here). Takes me about 1/2 hour to muscle her in place. The factory wiring harness is a tight, tight fit around the sides, front, and back of the blower. Pull and stretch the harness where necessary for proper fit. Watch closely at the rear blower drive as there are several wiring harnesses here not to mention the fuel line and EVAP lines. Torque manifold in place. Plug injectors, coil pack, and knock sensor harnesses back in.

    Elapsed Time - 4.25 hours - time for Guiness #3 as I listen to UNR drop the ball Crap, there is still a lot to do

    Extending wire harnesses - why did it take me so long to extend 3 simple wire harnesses? Was it the Guiness? No, it was because I was trying to make them look as good as possible. Take your time here - not a place to rush. If you stagger your cuts in the factory wires then the heat shrink crimps will fit inside the plastic split loom - otherwise they don't quite fit. Instructions are a little lacking as where to route the wires - so I'll post pics on the .faq in the complete writeup. Plug in the remaining connectors (IAT, MAF, TPS & EVAP if I recall).

    Elapsed Time - 5.5 hours - time for Guiness #4 as I'm pissed that I'm so far behind schedule (actually, I know the wife will be expecting me for dinner before I can finish, and she has no idea I have a Maggie Teach her to say, "I don't care, do whatever makes you happy.")

    Hoses. Route new brake booster hose, evap lines, purge lines, etc as per instructions. All straighforward. You'll have to use your judgement in finding the best route for the hoses. I went for what I thought would be cleanest once the modified FRC's are back in place. Now all that is left is belt install, intake, coolant hoses and wiring of the recirculating pump. A snag - running coolant hoses (the small 1/4" lines from the vent pipe, etc.) there is supposed to be a hose connector to tie into the original factory line. Well, there is a connecter, but it is 3/4" Start digging around in all of my crap looking for a suitable substitute (steel fuel line, aluminum line, anything) but it takes me a half hour to find something suitable. Wife calls, when will I be home for dinner ?

    Elapsed time 6.5 hours I said I'd be gone for 4

    Quickly wrap up the hoses, some quick zip ties to make sure everything is in place, decide to ditch the I/C until this morning (hoses are run, but wiring is not), slide the new belt in place (easy) bolt on the intake, refill coolant, connect battery and turn key to run but do not start car. Watch for leaks in fuel system - none. Cycle key a couple of times just because. Start car. Sound normal, no error messages, let idle for 10 seconds and shut off. Start her again and let her idle for a few minutes, rev it up to 3K a time or two, all is well. Run windshield wipers and watch for clearance - all is good. Time to go home.

    Elapsed time 7 hours

    Initial drive impression - well - I'm not disappointed. The whine is most certainly there, but I think less than what is heard in Dgtal's video (must be the camcorder picking up mechanical noise). Almost non-existent during normal driving, and I'm sure if I put the B&B back on I won't even notice it until I hit the loud pedal.

    Went out this morning and finished the wiring of the pump and filled the intercooler system in about 20 minutes, let it run and purged it, but haven't driven her yet. Believe it or not, it snowed here last night (not much) and the streets are wet and cold - I'll wait until this afternoon

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