Time to step up the Brake Game - Page 3
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2004-2007 Cadillac CTS-V Performance Mods Discussion, Time to step up the Brake Game in Cadillac CTS-V Series Forum - 2004 - 2007; The wheels in post #3 are 18" wheels. The factory 18" wheels and 18" Rotas clear just fine, too. The ...
  1. #31
    AAIIIC's Avatar
    AAIIIC is offline Moderator
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    Re: Time to step up the Brake Game

    The wheels in post #3 are 18" wheels. The factory 18" wheels and 18" Rotas clear just fine, too.

    The V2 rotor is only 5mm bigger than the stock rear rotor (370mm vs 365mm), so diameter-wise you're not really pushing the fitment much more than stock. And the V2 caliper doesn't protrude from the face of the rotor any farther than the stock V1 caliper (just based on visually comparing clearance to the backs of the wheel spokes on my car), so from that aspect it doesn't seem to be an issue, either.
    '05 Stealth Grey CTS-V, Hyper Silver Linea Corse Venetos w/Continental ExtremeContact DWs (summer), black Team Dynamics ProRace 1.2 wheels with 275/35-18 R-compounds (track), Hyperblack Rota Torques (winter), KW Variant3s, V2 front brakes, Hotchkis rear sway bar, EPS cam, TEA-ported 243 heads, FAST92 intake w/LS2 TB, JBA Camaro/G8 1-3/4" shorty headers w/JBA cat pipes, Corsa exhaust, UUC motor and tranny mounts, UUC shifter, MAPerformance trailing arms, Specter cradle bushings, etc...

  2. #32
    Jeff James is offline Cadillac Owners Member
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    Re: Time to step up the Brake Game

    Just finished (mostly) my upgrade and like it!!
    A few tips & lessons learned for those about to do or try this. It is actually very simple,works with OE 18" wheels and OH MY GOD!! stops better.
    Products- New V2 Yellow Calipers from Amazon - Search AC Delco 172-2521 & 2522 Under $500.00
    Rotors & Pads Crossdrilledbrakes.com Drilled/Slotted With Ceramic Pads AND Hardware $375.00
    These are probably not very Track Day friendly but perfect for a DD- Buy better rotors (2 Pc) and pads for TDs
    GM #89047739 (2 ea) Boot kits for Rear calipers and GM #89047731 Piston & Seal kits for Rear calipers
    These are a must if you are disassembling for Powder-Coat The new fronts will be Ok if you are careful.
    GM # 11570788 (4 ea) V2 Caliper bolts These are approx. 3/8 " long for the sum of caliper and upright. I had to shorten mine but may
    depend on your choice of rotors.
    Eighth Day Creations Caliper decals ($9.00) Order way ahead of need as they probably make to order and aren't the fastest- however they
    sent me more than I expected and NO complaints!!
    Already had SS Brake lines from Luke and these worked perfect for the upgrade. Suggest you get NEW crush washers for Banjo bolts!!

    Disassembly--- All the usual safety stuff here in jacking and blocking so you don't get mushed!!
    For any refinishing of calipers leave the fronts on until you have new ones ready to install!
    If removing Rears, do so quickly and plug banjo as tight as possible to prevent leaks You will thank me for this come Bleeding time.
    I suggest a Fluid upgrade at the same time and I had done so when I did the Hoses. I used ATE Super Blue as it is reasonably priced and
    Blue so you know when it is in the system! More on this later! Be sure to top off the Fluid reservoir in case you do develop a leak or seeping
    of fluid as banjos are hard to seal up off the caliper.
    Used a block (s) of wood inside caliper to blow the pistons out with compressed air. Be careful and it may take a few times of blowing and
    pushing the pistons back in before you get them all out for removal. You will need to use a small screwdriver to carefully pry out the boots
    then you can use the same for the seals in the bores. Remove all bleeders and the crossover tube to get the insulator tubing off. P-Coater
    can't coat that but may clean it nice for you, mine did. DO NOT SPLIT YOUR CALIPERS!!
    Don't forget to include the X-over tube when you go to P-Coater. If reusing Rear hardware clean with soap & warm water and brush with an
    old toothbrush (or your wife's-just don't tell her!)
    Make sure to blow out your PC'd calipers NOW and you can even wash with warm soapy water to make sure they are clean inside!!!

    Caliper Assembly goes just opposite but use a Rubber lube or a lot of brake fluid for this process. Seals are a little difficult and use small wood blocks
    over dust boots and outside of caliper (suggest Heavy tape on outside to protect new paint. PC seems to be pretty resistant to Brake Fluid
    but wipe it off quickly. Tighten all X-over tubes and snug the bleed screws!

    Rotor drilling- What a pain and I spent way too much time making sure they were perfect. Machine match the center/hub bore and then you can
    clamp the two (Old/New) together for drilling. You will only have four solid holes and two elongated. If possible use an end mill for the
    elongated holes to keep from jumping all over. Remember the old rotor stud holes are smaller than the new ones. Don't rush on this!!!!
    To remove an old one, unbolt the caliper and hang on the Upper C-Arm out of the way. Do NOT disconnect hoses.

    Upright drilling for new Caliper bolts was easy. Used a 9/16" bit in a 1/2 drill and this went quickly. Make sure to blow all the chips off/out!!

    Vehicle Assembly - If removed, Hang the rear calipers with pads and hardware on and tighten all bolts especially the banjos.
    temporarily mount the front calipers to see if you need to shorten caliper bolts - I recommend you mark and cut off any extra threaded
    portion to avoid any issues with rotor. make sure you clean threads well and grind bevel on end before installing.
    Do not remove your OE calipers yet !!
    Mount your newly drilled rotors and you will NOT be able to use the little countersunk bolt again!
    Mount your new Calipers and tighten bolts. Install Pads and hardware. Make sure your rotors turn before going any farther. They may make
    noise as pads rub rotors, no problem!!
    Now disconnect your old calipers and connect hoses to new calipers, tightening with NEW crush washers!!

    I gravity bled my system by opening all of the bleeders and watched until I saw evidence of fluid at each corner. DO NOT MOVE THE Brake
    pedal during this step. Once fluid has reached calipers, tighten bleed screws. I also use a bleeder bottle setup that has a tube (tubing) that
    goes to BOTTOM of bottle (a clear squirt bottle with a hole in screw top works great. If your tubing is tight in the hole loosen the top slightly to
    avoid pressure build in the bottle). Pour 1/2" of fluid in bottle to keep end from being exposed.
    Starting at RR attach tube to either bleeder and crack open bleed screw. You can actually move by hand the brake pedal with the bleeder open
    and not suck air back into the system. If you have help now, use a soft hammer or wood handle to tap on calipers to release any pockets of
    air.
    As a side bar here, I panicked the day before, not knowing how much fluid I would need and called and ran all over Hell to find more ATE Super Blue
    I did find a BMW specialty shop that had it in stock.

    Back to bleeding now, Be sure to check and refill the brake cyl. reservoir often. If calipers were full before you won't use much each caliper.
    When evidence of air in tube to bottle is gone, move to the next bleeder. This should only take a few hand pumps for each bleeder. if you are
    having problems getting rid of air, make sure your tubing is tight at the bleeder. You may pull some air in there!
    Work your way around the car RR,LR,RF,LF in that order. Again, this should only take 2-3 pumps per bleeder!!!
    Make sure all of your bleeders are tight and then slowly hold foot pressure on the brake pedal to check for leaks.
    I recommend you go around the car ONE more time with help. Hold pedal pressure, open bleeder, close bleeder, release pedal pressure. In that
    order!!! Remember the side bar on fluid?? I had one full bottle and bought two. I used less than 1/2 of my existing bottle for bleeding!! Suggest
    you have two bottles (pints) to start especially if you upgrade hoses at the same time.
    I went and drove the car to bed Pads rotors first time then came back and bled brakes Hot. I did find a tiny bit of air but pedal was great.
    I spent more time drilling the damn rotors than the rest of the project combined. This is a simple project that any one comfortable bleeding brakes
    can do at home. Clean and box up your Old Front Rotors and Calipers for ??

    Next project LS7 clutch, ave all the parts but T/O!
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    odla and OneFast V like this.

  3. #33
    Junior1's Avatar
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    Re: Time to step up the Brake Game

    Very nice. The rotor issue is the only thing holding me back on this. For dedicated track/race duty, rotors and pads are basically disposable. Drilling the hubs would be a bit of a hassle each time. A 2 piece setup would be ideal for me by utilizing a custom hub that mates up to replacement rings similar to what yooper was doing. The only 2 viable options was the Coleman (which cracked in that size) and RB. I'm running the Coleman in stock size without issue so far...
    2005 cadillac cts-v racecar #83 nasa st3 . 2011 escalade esv . 2011 sierra denali

  4. #34
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    Re: Time to step up the Brake Game

    Quote Originally Posted by Junior1 View Post
    Very nice. The rotor issue is the only thing holding me back on this. For dedicated track/race duty, rotors and pads are basically disposable. Drilling the hubs would be a bit of a hassle each time. A 2 piece setup would be ideal for me by utilizing a custom hub that mates up to replacement rings similar to what yooper was doing. The only 2 viable options was the Coleman (which cracked in that size) and RB. I'm running the Coleman in stock size without issue so far...
    Call Gary at Hardbar to see if the heat treated and balanced rotor rings he gets from Coleman will fit the PerformanceAFX hats.
    http://hardbarusa.com/hardbar/produc...roducts_id=185

    Bill

  5. #35
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    Re: Time to step up the Brake Game

    Quote Originally Posted by yooper View Post
    Call Gary at Hardbar to see if the heat treated and balanced rotor rings he gets from Coleman will fit the PerformanceAFX hats.
    http://hardbarusa.com/hardbar/produc...roducts_id=185

    Bill
    good to know...
    2005 cadillac cts-v racecar #83 nasa st3 . 2011 escalade esv . 2011 sierra denali

  6. #36
    OneFast V is offline Cadillac Owners Enthusiast
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    Re: Time to step up the Brake Game

    Took the car on the track (thunderhill raceway) with the new brakes and they were awesome! Found myself able to go faster and brake a little later than I was before with more confidence in the brakes.

  7. #37
    FuzzyLogic is offline Cadillac Owners Connoisseur
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    Re: Time to step up the Brake Game

    Has anyone tried taking their old front brakes and putting them on the rear?

  8. #38
    Jeff James is offline Cadillac Owners Member
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    Re: Time to step up the Brake Game

    Not sure why one would want to do that. The front rotors wouldn't work with E-brake and I think the pistons size is different F-R. Might throw the balance off and end up with a weird pedal. However on further thought, swapping calipers might reduce the rear pressure enough to have a little less rear brake.This might help on a track only application as the V is a little tail happy under hard trail braking!

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