Looking for some direction on slowly increasing the handling on my daily but don't want to go overboard that it becomes undrivable under normal street conditions (typical city bumpy rutted roads, etc). I have no real plans on adding power but that's not out of the question. No plans on drag racing so the most I'm looking at is possibly an axle upgrade to reduce wheelhop and not a 8.8/9 conversion. Key thing I want is better handling and braking and in the next year or so, go to some track schools/days.
Little background: Car: 05 36K mi. Katech shifter, CAGS delete, SRP pedals. Me: Been to the track and club raced motorcycles for roughly 5-6yrs on a (somewhat) competitive level finishing top 10 in my class regularly so the tracks I'm planning on going to, I am already familiar with.
These are the parts I plan to go with but still in research phase and it'll be an as funds allow build. Not looking to do all these prior to going to the track
I'm not really a "car guy" so I'm betting I forgot something or just don't know about it but ask me almost anything on motorcycles and how to make them perform better in different ways and I can talk for days.
installed the KWs and the end links. now theres a clunking at low speed when rolling over potholes, dips, etc. dont hear or feel it with faster speeds. almost feels like something is loose but everything is torqued to spec (confirmed this past weekend).
KWs? end links?
initial impressions are good on ride feel. stiffer yet still compliant. less bodyroll. havent tried putting it through its paces yet till the clunking is resolved.
There are so many different things that it could be. You need to narrow down the suspects. Is it coming from the back or the front? One side or the other? Does it happen when you corner? Does it happen when you hit bumps with both wheels? What about when you hit a bump with one wheel?
The PS cooler should basically be at ambient, since it's in the return line to the reservoir and the reservoir is vented to atmosphere.
I, too, would be interested in seeing pics of the failed cooler, but I have to think it was just a faulty cooler. There are tons of OEM PS coolers on all sorts of vehicles and none of them are anything special / heavy duty.
Here is what the cooler looks like now. you can see the area where oil has soaked the cooler but there is no apparent gross leak, it is definitely a fine leak.
It is. Same one Fuzzy found on Ebay. uses and/or references the same part #. Also it worked fine on the street for the 2 weeks it was installed prior to the track day.
I've got one collecting dust in the garage, never got around to installing nor returning it for that matter.
It was thrown in a box with no other markings except for a gold "Made in Taiwan" sticker.
From what I gather Fluidyne used to make them in CA but now outsource some stuff to possibly Taiwan/China. In any event I wasn't comfortable not seeing it packaged in a Fluidyne box at least and the Made in Taiwan thing just made me throw it to the side...
Welk lets not be too hasty. Can you not start the car and see the leak? It looks to me like it was leaking from around the hose clamps. Maybe use a better clamp? Or possibly two clamps? It would be nice to know exactly where it is leaking from first.
I can tell you it is definitely not leaking from the hose connections those things are on very tight. I believe it is somewhere where all the cooler lines funnel back into one line.
Ya, he said if i pay to ship it to him and they find that its defective, then they will replace it. I just bought derale cooler that's basically like the OEM style but a 4 pass and use that instead as i trust it more.
fuzzy, i just got my end links a few hours ago. do yo need to cut these down to get the full benefit from them and also how far? that looks like an 1-2" you cut them down from the picture.
Ideally, they need to be adjusted such that, when your wheels are on the ground, they are dead vertical.
I can't give you a more detailed answer than that because I don't know how low or high your V is riding. For me, that required cutting the square ends off the end links and shortening the threaded bolt slightly.
for me @ 14" (1" drop from stock), measured from fender lip to center axle/wheel hub, adj. links are maxed out @ shortest length with preload on the sways. if you want no preload, you'll have to shave/cut them slightly depending how much you're dropped.
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