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Mod progression/route? (for track/street)

13K views 73 replies 16 participants last post by  mackey 
#1 · (Edited)
Looking for some direction on slowly increasing the handling on my daily but don't want to go overboard that it becomes undrivable under normal street conditions (typical city bumpy rutted roads, etc). I have no real plans on adding power but that's not out of the question. No plans on drag racing so the most I'm looking at is possibly an axle upgrade to reduce wheelhop and not a 8.8/9 conversion. Key thing I want is better handling and braking and in the next year or so, go to some track schools/days.

Little background: Car: 05 36K mi. Katech shifter, CAGS delete, SRP pedals. Me: Been to the track and club raced motorcycles for roughly 5-6yrs on a (somewhat) competitive level finishing top 10 in my class regularly so the tracks I'm planning on going to, I am already familiar with.

These are the parts I plan to go with but still in research phase and it'll be an as funds allow build. Not looking to do all these prior to going to the track

Sways? Addco?
Suspension? KW V3? *bought V3*
Brakes (pad/rotor)?
Wheels/Tires (sizes)?
Bushings? Revshift?
Radiator/tstat upgrade? Alradco/? ?
P/S or Oil cooler?
Axles? gforce?
Anything else?

I'm not really a "car guy" so I'm betting I forgot something or just don't know about it but ask me almost anything on motorcycles and how to make them perform better in different ways and I can talk for days.
 
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#2 ·
Your first steps should be aimed at replacing the three weak points of the V1:

1. Stock clutch and shifter slop
2. Drivetrain mounts and subframe bushings
3. High center of gravity and mediocre suspension

You already have the Katech shifter (which I have too), but there are a plethora of additional shifter linkage mods (beyond the basic Creative Steel / UUC bushings) that will further shore up the shifter's performance. You're going to need to source the necessary parts from a couple of different places, including Brian (PISNUOFF) and Home Depot. Read through this thread on LS1Tech, paying special attention to Cadzilla's posts and pictures.

The second thing that you need to upgrade is the stock clutch. The easiest and cheapest route is to pick up an LS7 clutch kit from F1 Racing on eBay ($550-650, depending on your power needs), but you'll also want to procure a remote bleeder line and a Motive Power Bleeder to allow you to quickly and effectively bleed your clutch periodically. If you're planning on a major motor/blower upgrade in the future, or you just want a nicer twin-disc clutch, consider the McLeod RST (organic) or RXT (ceramic).

As far as bushings and mounts go, Revshift is your one stop shop. Get the Revshift 80A (blue) motor mounts, the Revshift transmission insert (only one hardness offered--80A), and their red (95A) bushings for everything else--trailing arms, control arms, differential, and subframe.

When it comes to suspension upgrades, you have a surprisingly large number of options. From personal experience, I would immediately bite the bullet and buy a set of KW Variant 3's. They cost $1950 including shipping if you know where to shop. If you absolutely can't handle the price, you could try a set of d2/K-Sport coilovers ($900) or the Ground Control coilover kit ($500), but if you're an aggressive driver, you'll ultimately wind up upgrading to the KW V3s or LG Motorsports Penskes ($3000). In all three cases, plan on spending about $400 extra to buy adjustable end links (not PowerGrid ones--these) and a stiffer set of springs.

With regards to sway bars, the no-brainer upgrade is the Hotchkis 2280 kit ($425). If you don't mind adding some weight, the solid-core Addco set is even stiffer, and slightly less expensive ($350), but it's three times as heavy.
 
#3 ·
I'll look into that thank you. The clutch seems solid but sloppy if that makes sense. I guess those additional bushing changes will cure much if not all of that sloppy feeling.

I didn't see the penske's available on the LGM site. out of production? I don't mind paying more for better suspension (i've had penske as well as ohlins) as that's the key to good handling and the biggest upgrades for bikes that most people don't take into account.
 
#4 ·
Dude you're considering Penskes??? Holy moly that's pure track stuff. A good street/track is what Fuzzy recommended KW V3. I use these on my fun cars and adjust the settings depending on the event - reset afterwards for daily driving.

Man, I learned something here, that is a excellent link to the shifter Fuzzy gave - I'm going to tear mine apart and rebuild.
 
#5 ·
What's your budget? I ask because you could be in the poor house really quickly around here. Oh, you'd have a great handling car, but do you really want to be eating Mac 'n Cheese for the next five years?
 
#6 · (Edited)
having had a taste of good suspension in the past, penskes are not out of the question assuming theyre available. id rather buy once cry once if you know what i mean ;)

that being said, it wont be right away and i dont plan to do it all at once. ive raced so i definitely know what its like to be poor :) "the only way to make a small fortune in racing is start with a large fortune"

id rather throw money at suspension than say a S/C or motor work. not to say that may or may not happen after but suspension/handling first.

how easy/difficult is it setting the V3s from street to track and visa versa?
 
#7 ·
The fronts are easy, just pop the hood and insert the allen key and give it a turn to adjust the rebound. You have to pull the seats to get to the rears but same thing...just insert the allen and adjust. You can feel the clicks so just count. Adjusting the bump/compression, you have to pull a wheel off and adjust, just give small turns and you can see the numbers line up.

So...a full adjustment 1hr or less. I usually just adjust the rebound for the front and rear -15 minutes.
 
#11 ·
The LG Motorsports coilovers are still available you just have to call them. I'll post more of my own experiences when I get in front of an actual keyboard.
 
#12 ·
I've been putting together a complete list of mods that I've done on my V which helps me in replying here. Often I forget which mods I have...

Little background: Car: 05 36K mi. Katech shifter, CAGS delete, SRP pedals. Me: Been to the track and club raced motorcycles for roughly 5-6yrs on a (somewhat) competitive level finishing top 10 in my class regularly so the tracks I'm planning on going to, I am already familiar with.

These are the parts I plan to go with but still in research phase and it'll be an as funds allow build. Not looking to do all these prior to going to the track

Sways? Addco?
Suspension? KW V3?
Brakes (pad/rotor)?
Wheels/Tires (sizes)?
Bushings? Revshift?
Radiator/tstat upgrade? Alradco/? ?
P/S or Oil cooler?
Axles? gforce?
Anything else?
Your car has significantly less miles that mine does now and even what it had when I started tracking it. That said, even with 30+ track days and 115 miles, many of the stock components were doing well. For the parts you've mentioned I've gone with the following:
Sways: Hotchkis (FuzzyLogic has a lot more first hand experience here though. I've only had these and stock and have yet to have them on the track yet)
Shocks/Springs: LG Motorsports (Beyond the nice Penske shocks and Hyperco springs, these have some nice features like the bearing upper and lower mounts, true coilover in the rear, etc. I have a few pictures in my thread over on LS1Tech)
Brakes: I have been running the UUC 2-piece rotors up front for quite a while and really liked them. At first with street tires I was using HP+ on the street and track with street tires, but then went to DTC-70s with R comps. Recently switched to HPS for the street though, since I didn't need a dual purpose pad. That said, I'm in the process of switching to the V2 setup. Probably with DTC-60s (track) and HPS (street) again.
Wheels/Tires: Team Dynamics track/Stock on the street. Tires, I've gone through quite a few different ones (V700, R6, etc). 275/35/18s fit on all four corners.
Bushings: I have the UUC engine/trans/shifter/diff as they were the only ones available for awhile. I've picked up the others from RevShift but don't have them installed yet. Regardless, cheap and should be a good mod.
Radiator: I have the Ron Davis unit. If you go this route, don't get the integrated oil cooler as it is unusable.
P/S: There's a good writeup around on how to throw an upgraded unit in the stock location. I have a pretty big Fluidyne unit. Do this mod as it is cheap and I used to boil the PS fluid everytime out on the track. Oil cooler is in the future for me. Check the stickied thread on some more info.
Axles: No personal experience. I'm going with the 9" kit (sitting on my bedroom floor, uninstalled)


Your first steps should be aimed at replacing the three weak points of the V1:

1. Stock clutch and shifter slop
2. Drivetrain mounts and subframe bushings
3. High center of gravity and mediocre suspension
Good info here. I have the Katech LS9 setup. Drives like stock, but is smoother and revs noticeably quicker.


Dude you're considering Penskes??? Holy moly that's pure track stuff. A good street/track is what Fuzzy recommended KW V3. I use these on my fun cars and adjust the settings depending on the event - reset afterwards for daily driving.

Man, I learned something here, that is a excellent link to the shifter Fuzzy gave - I'm going to tear mine apart and rebuild.
I haven't been able to drive on the Penskes much yet (still need to adjust ride height and get an allignment) but they ride great on the street.
 
#49 ·
P/S: There's a good writeup around on how to throw an upgraded unit in the stock location. I have a pretty big Fluidyne unit. Do this mod as it is cheap and I used to boil the PS fluid everytime out on the track. Oil cooler is in the future for me. Check the stickied thread on some more info.
Axles: No personal experience. I'm going with the 9" kit (sitting on my bedroom floor, uninstalled)
Your inbox is full tried to PM you! Anyways I figured I would ask how much track time you have on the PS cooler? Mine exploded after 4 HPDE sessions at Laguna Seca on Sunday. I'm concern this cooler really may not be adequate, either that or I got a faulty one.
 
#16 ·
Where is the PS upgrade thread? I have never seen it? I need to jump on it if it as easy and cheap as you say.
 
#17 ·
On the FAQ: http://www.cadillacfaq.com/faq/answers/steeringcooler/index.html

I don't think that the part number mentioned is still available, but there are others that will work.

I would recommend this mod to anybody who may see track time. It's one of those mods that I forget that I have and thus forget to recommend it to people. Quick and easy using the FAQ procedure. I'll try to find the part number of the one I used.


Stock vs the Fluidyne. Once I finally get my grills powdercoated black, i'll probably rattle can the cooler black as well.
 
#18 · (Edited)
#19 ·
^That might be the same one I have just black. Nice purchase either way. Quick, cheap and effective upgrade.

Sorry for the thread jack btw. :)
 
#28 · (Edited)
http://www.amsoil.com/locator/index.aspx

unless its a "race" shop, i havent seen amsoil being sold. for instance, im not sure youd find it @ an o reillys, advance auto, or pep boys.

----------

plan on spending about $400 extra to buy adjustable end links (not PowerGrid ones--these) and a stiffer set of springs.
these are the ones to get? or just the type to get?

nevermind, saw your post in ls1tech. thanks

http://ls1tech.com/forums/cadillac-cts-v/1601468-cheaper-alternative-powergrid-end-links.html
 
#35 · (Edited)


Got mine in, install was simple but due to the HEX coolant tank i had to mount it opposite of the FAQ
 
#37 ·
I currently have my fronts at the lowest recommended setting (300mm) which I think im going to raise just a bit as I scrape the rubber skirt under the bumper getting in and out of my driveway. The rears I have set at about 26mm I believe. No issues scraping headers or anything under the car driving around but im sure to avoid known problematic areas.
 
#40 ·
will be doing the suspension swap this coming weekend. i'll hold off on the hotchkis sways for now. i like to feel each upgrade vs throwing them on all at once.

ordered the adj. miata end links. if i keep with a conservative set up and not drop it low, will i need them? guess we'll find out.
 
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