Installed LS7 Clutch, Flywheel, etc. - rock HARD pedal...
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2004-2007 Cadillac CTS-V Performance Mods Discussion, Installed LS7 Clutch, Flywheel, etc. - rock HARD pedal... in Cadillac CTS-V Series Forum - 2004 - 2007; 2/3 through installing a LS7 clutch, flywheel and LS7 slave in my 05. No big problems during the process. After ...
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    jclayc's Avatar
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    Installed LS7 Clutch, Flywheel, etc. - rock HARD pedal...

    2/3 through installing a LS7 clutch, flywheel and LS7 slave in my 05. No big problems during the process. After re-installing the trans, driveshaft & shifter, I pushed the clutch pedal and it is hard. I mean, zero movement. The slave is not connected at all and the bleeder is open.

    When I turn the driveshaft by hand, the wheels turn at the back and the rear trans yolk turns too. When torquing the pressure plate bolts, the engine turned over, so I know from the pressure plate forward is turning. That says to me that I've got a problem with the slave or the way the two are mated - I think? Sliding the trans back onto the engine went ok, since I have a fancy trans jack (a must have) so I didn't feel anything go wrong during that process.

    Or, of course, I could be prematurely judging things and should just bleed the clutch, etc. and check again, but I seem to have the opposite problem of most people.

    Thanks for your help!
    05 CTS-V (390hp/383tq) forged pistons & H Beam rods, balanced crank, TFS 220s, YT 1.7 rockers, Comp Cam 229/239 .627"/.621" 111.5+3, Super Damper, 63lb injectors, Fast 92, 90mm TB, LS7 clutch, RAM flywheel, Alradco, Kooks, Magnaflow, Volant CAI, MSD starter, CS Red MMs, roll bar, RaceTech seats, 6pt harnesses, remote oil & PS coolers, KWv3s, v2 brakes, Carbotech XR1s, 2pc rotors, Hotchkis sways, Revshift red bushings, BMR toe rods, trailing arms & anti-hop kit, Powergrid endlinks

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    darkman's Avatar
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    Re: Installed LS7 Clutch, Flywheel, etc. - rock HARD pedal...


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    jclayc's Avatar
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    Re: Installed LS7 Clutch, Flywheel, etc. - rock HARD pedal...

    thanks, I hooked the slave back up and no change. From those links, there's one saying it's a misaligned clutch fork, another saying it's a problem with the line between the master cylinder and clutch slave...

    the misaligned clutch fork sounds possible, which means pulling everything back apart and re-installing the slave/throwout bearing.
    05 CTS-V (390hp/383tq) forged pistons & H Beam rods, balanced crank, TFS 220s, YT 1.7 rockers, Comp Cam 229/239 .627"/.621" 111.5+3, Super Damper, 63lb injectors, Fast 92, 90mm TB, LS7 clutch, RAM flywheel, Alradco, Kooks, Magnaflow, Volant CAI, MSD starter, CS Red MMs, roll bar, RaceTech seats, 6pt harnesses, remote oil & PS coolers, KWv3s, v2 brakes, Carbotech XR1s, 2pc rotors, Hotchkis sways, Revshift red bushings, BMR toe rods, trailing arms & anti-hop kit, Powergrid endlinks

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    darkman's Avatar
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    Re: Installed LS7 Clutch, Flywheel, etc. - rock HARD pedal...

    Upon re-reading your first post - if the condition exists when the line is not hooked to the slave it would seem the problem has to involve the pedal and/or master cylinder since the pedal is not actually trying to disengage the clutch. Or am I missing something?

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    Re: Installed LS7 Clutch, Flywheel, etc. - rock HARD pedal...

    i've tried it both with and without the ls7 slave hooked to the clutch master and the hard pedal is the same... I didn't think I messed with the linkage down there but perhaps it's something binding?
    05 CTS-V (390hp/383tq) forged pistons & H Beam rods, balanced crank, TFS 220s, YT 1.7 rockers, Comp Cam 229/239 .627"/.621" 111.5+3, Super Damper, 63lb injectors, Fast 92, 90mm TB, LS7 clutch, RAM flywheel, Alradco, Kooks, Magnaflow, Volant CAI, MSD starter, CS Red MMs, roll bar, RaceTech seats, 6pt harnesses, remote oil & PS coolers, KWv3s, v2 brakes, Carbotech XR1s, 2pc rotors, Hotchkis sways, Revshift red bushings, BMR toe rods, trailing arms & anti-hop kit, Powergrid endlinks

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    Re: Installed LS7 Clutch, Flywheel, etc. - rock HARD pedal...

    The clutch pedal is an assembly with busings and it apparently can get in a bind based on the service manual which always list it on the trouble shooting charts. Another possibilty is that the rod that the pedal pushes to actuate the master clutch cylinder may be misaligned.

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    Re: Installed LS7 Clutch, Flywheel, etc. - rock HARD pedal...

    Are you positive you have the quick connector between the master and slave plugged back in all the way? That connector acts like a quick connect air fitting, when the other half isn't connected, it won't flow any fluid and this is exactly what your problem sounds like. If you just installed a new slave cylinder the pedal should push right to the floor and stay there most likely. It can be a pain in the butt to get that quick connector pushed in all the way, but the clip needs to seat all the way and the "shoulder" of the male connector should be flush with the end of the female connector. If not, it may not allow fluid flow and cause your hard pedal.
    lollygagger8 and lollygagger8 like this.

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    Re: Installed LS7 Clutch, Flywheel, etc. - rock HARD pedal...

    ha - NC-V gets a cookie - tugged at the line and it came apart. once securely re-attached, the pedal goes to the floor... whew
    SlvrVee, SlvrVee, darkman and 3 others like this.
    05 CTS-V (390hp/383tq) forged pistons & H Beam rods, balanced crank, TFS 220s, YT 1.7 rockers, Comp Cam 229/239 .627"/.621" 111.5+3, Super Damper, 63lb injectors, Fast 92, 90mm TB, LS7 clutch, RAM flywheel, Alradco, Kooks, Magnaflow, Volant CAI, MSD starter, CS Red MMs, roll bar, RaceTech seats, 6pt harnesses, remote oil & PS coolers, KWv3s, v2 brakes, Carbotech XR1s, 2pc rotors, Hotchkis sways, Revshift red bushings, BMR toe rods, trailing arms & anti-hop kit, Powergrid endlinks

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    Re: Installed LS7 Clutch, Flywheel, etc. - rock HARD pedal...

    Bleed that bad boy and enjoy!

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    Re: Installed LS7 Clutch, Flywheel, etc. - rock HARD pedal...

    Related question: I put some grease on the input shaft when installing. Thinking about it, that's going to sling grease on the clutch, etc. as soon as I turn the engine over. Worth pulling the trans, pressure plate, and clutch to clean it off before starting for the first time?
    05 CTS-V (390hp/383tq) forged pistons & H Beam rods, balanced crank, TFS 220s, YT 1.7 rockers, Comp Cam 229/239 .627"/.621" 111.5+3, Super Damper, 63lb injectors, Fast 92, 90mm TB, LS7 clutch, RAM flywheel, Alradco, Kooks, Magnaflow, Volant CAI, MSD starter, CS Red MMs, roll bar, RaceTech seats, 6pt harnesses, remote oil & PS coolers, KWv3s, v2 brakes, Carbotech XR1s, 2pc rotors, Hotchkis sways, Revshift red bushings, BMR toe rods, trailing arms & anti-hop kit, Powergrid endlinks

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    Re: Installed LS7 Clutch, Flywheel, etc. - rock HARD pedal...

    I think it depends on how much, and what type of grease. See item 4 in: http://www.exedyusa.com/multimedia/s...structions.pdf

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    Re: Installed LS7 Clutch, Flywheel, etc. - rock HARD pedal...

    I used "drum/disc break bearing grease", dark red stuff, which is supposed to be high temp. I'd say I put a medium amount, maybe verging on heavy. I'm paranoid enough about it that I'm probably going to pull everything back apart (ugh).
    05 CTS-V (390hp/383tq) forged pistons & H Beam rods, balanced crank, TFS 220s, YT 1.7 rockers, Comp Cam 229/239 .627"/.621" 111.5+3, Super Damper, 63lb injectors, Fast 92, 90mm TB, LS7 clutch, RAM flywheel, Alradco, Kooks, Magnaflow, Volant CAI, MSD starter, CS Red MMs, roll bar, RaceTech seats, 6pt harnesses, remote oil & PS coolers, KWv3s, v2 brakes, Carbotech XR1s, 2pc rotors, Hotchkis sways, Revshift red bushings, BMR toe rods, trailing arms & anti-hop kit, Powergrid endlinks

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    Re: Installed LS7 Clutch, Flywheel, etc. - rock HARD pedal...

    As long as it wasn't globbing off the input shaft you will probably be fine. If you just put a film on you should be ok, but if you packed the splines full then you may have some contamination issues.

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    OP - would love to hear your feelings on the results once you get things put back together and get her back on the road. This has been on my to do list ever since I started reading about the dual mass issues we have, and troubleshooting to realize that this is probably the cause of the vibrations that drive me absolutely crazy. Did you have any "issues" that you were trying to remedy with this swap, or was it completely voluntary? Also, did you go with a lightweight flywheel, or the original ls7?

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    Re: Installed LS7 Clutch, Flywheel, etc. - rock HARD pedal...

    With about 40k miles on it, I developed a small leak between my bellhousing and the engine which I figured was a leaky rear seal. To get to it, I had to take the trans, clutch, etc. out anyway so I figured I'd do the clutch upgrade at the same time I replace the rear cover and seal. I bought my LS7 slave from O'Reiley's but the LS7 clutch, pressure plate and 19lb RAM flywheel from Scroggin Dickey.

    I got everything buttoned back up on Saturday and have been out driving a few times. My first impression is that this is the way the car should have always been... it's hard to imagine it being any different. Biggest difference: hit the gas and instead of waiting a beat or two before getting revs, it revs immediately. I don't know that the car "feels lighter" like people have said but the way the clutch is set up (engages really low to the floor) means it's tough not to really launch the sucker from 1st. First and reverse have super short clutch travel but all other gears seem to be ok. The only problem I've run into is that, when coming out of the accellerator from 4th or above, RPMs drop to zero and the engine dies unless I give it a little rev. I think that's because I have a W4M tune that may have set my idle a little low(?)

    Other thoughts:

    If you're doing this alone like I did, buy a good trans jack - I could not have finished the job without it.

    The need for a speed bleeder is overrated and so is the difficulty bleeding the clutch. The bleeder is not tough to get to and, with a 90 degree rubber fitting over the bleeder outlet, you can bleed it yourself w/ a suction.

    I went ahead and removed the driver's side header to give me more room to work.

    Don't grease the input shaft *L*

    The first time I slid the trans back into the engine, it took one try and about 5 minutes. The second time, it took 6 hours - go figure.
    05 CTS-V (390hp/383tq) forged pistons & H Beam rods, balanced crank, TFS 220s, YT 1.7 rockers, Comp Cam 229/239 .627"/.621" 111.5+3, Super Damper, 63lb injectors, Fast 92, 90mm TB, LS7 clutch, RAM flywheel, Alradco, Kooks, Magnaflow, Volant CAI, MSD starter, CS Red MMs, roll bar, RaceTech seats, 6pt harnesses, remote oil & PS coolers, KWv3s, v2 brakes, Carbotech XR1s, 2pc rotors, Hotchkis sways, Revshift red bushings, BMR toe rods, trailing arms & anti-hop kit, Powergrid endlinks

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