Installed LS7 Clutch, Flywheel, etc. - rock HARD pedal... - Page 2
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2004-2007 Cadillac CTS-V Performance Mods Discussion, Installed LS7 Clutch, Flywheel, etc. - rock HARD pedal... in Cadillac CTS-V Series Forum - 2004 - 2007; Good stuff to know. Thanks...
  1. #16
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    Re: Installed LS7 Clutch, Flywheel, etc. - rock HARD pedal...

    Good stuff to know. Thanks

  2. #17
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    Re: Installed LS7 Clutch, Flywheel, etc. - rock HARD pedal...

    Quote Originally Posted by jclayc View Post
    With about 40k miles on it, I developed a small leak between my bellhousing and the engine which I figured was a leaky rear seal. To get to it, I had to take the trans, clutch, etc. out anyway so I figured I'd do the clutch upgrade at the same time I replace the rear cover and seal. I bought my LS7 slave from O'Reiley's but the LS7 clutch, pressure plate and 19lb RAM flywheel from Scroggin Dickey.

    I got everything buttoned back up on Saturday and have been out driving a few times. My first impression is that this is the way the car should have always been... it's hard to imagine it being any different. Biggest difference: hit the gas and instead of waiting a beat or two before getting revs, it revs immediately. I don't know that the car "feels lighter" like people have said but the way the clutch is set up (engages really low to the floor) means it's tough not to really launch the sucker from 1st. First and reverse have super short clutch travel but all other gears seem to be ok. The only problem I've run into is that, when coming out of the accellerator from 4th or above, RPMs drop to zero and the engine dies unless I give it a little rev. I think that's because I have a W4M tune that may have set my idle a little low(?)

    Other thoughts:

    If you're doing this alone like I did, buy a good trans jack - I could not have finished the job without it.

    The need for a speed bleeder is overrated and so is the difficulty bleeding the clutch. The bleeder is not tough to get to and, with a 90 degree rubber fitting over the bleeder outlet, you can bleed it yourself w/ a suction.

    I went ahead and removed the driver's side header to give me more room to work.

    Don't grease the input shaft *L*

    The first time I slid the trans back into the engine, it took one try and about 5 minutes. The second time, it took 6 hours - go figure.
    Awesome info, thanks a lot. I'll be bookmarking this into my "need to k now" stuff for when I get to this job. I'm not going to have the time to do it myself, and I have a very reliable and reasonably priced mechanic ($50/hour, which is CHEAP for my neck of the woods). He's also younger and into reading up on jobs like this on the forums and stuff before he does them - which I like. He's read the links I've sent him on this topic and quoted me $350 cash to get the job done. To me, it's worth it to have done by him rather than me learning as I go and taking waaaay longer than he would (not to mention the mistakes I might make, tools I might be missing, etc, etc). I'll do lots of stuff on my own, but I'm not comfortable doing a job like this.

    Anyway - great info. From what I've read and been warned about with the RAM flywheel (or any LW flywheel) is that what you're experiencing is definitely a potential issue for anyone that does this and doesn't have/get a tune to compensate for the drastic reduction in rotating mass. I spoke with a guy from East Coast Performance (he's on LS1 forums) and he warned me of exactly this. I don't have a tune, and wont be interested in getting one done since the cost of the parts and labour (I'm canadian, that's how we spell it! lol) is going to be my budget - no more. So while I've been trying to save the $$ for this, I've been wrestling with the choice of going with the RAM and taking my chances that it wont stall out (I've asked around and many did NOT have this issue, while a few did), or just going with the whole GM setup (which is still lighter than ours).

    If you wouldn't mind, would you keep me/us posted as you drive the car more, and the new-ness factor wears off a bit?

  3. #18
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    Re: Installed LS7 Clutch, Flywheel, etc. - rock HARD pedal...

    Quote Originally Posted by WesH8398 View Post
    Awesome info, thanks a lot. I'll be bookmarking this into my "need to k now" stuff for when I get to this job. I'm not going to have the time to do it myself, and I have a very reliable and reasonably priced mechanic ($50/hour, which is CHEAP for my neck of the woods). He's also younger and into reading up on jobs like this on the forums and stuff before he does them - which I like. He's read the links I've sent him on this topic and quoted me $350 cash to get the job done. To me, it's worth it to have done by him rather than me learning as I go and taking waaaay longer than he would (not to mention the mistakes I might make, tools I might be missing, etc, etc). I'll do lots of stuff on my own, but I'm not comfortable doing a job like this.

    Anyway - great info. From what I've read and been warned about with the RAM flywheel (or any LW flywheel) is that what you're experiencing is definitely a potential issue for anyone that does this and doesn't have/get a tune to compensate for the drastic reduction in rotating mass. I spoke with a guy from East Coast Performance (he's on LS1 forums) and he warned me of exactly this. I don't have a tune, and wont be interested in getting one done since the cost of the parts and labour (I'm canadian, that's how we spell it! lol) is going to be my budget - no more. So while I've been trying to save the $$ for this, I've been wrestling with the choice of going with the RAM and taking my chances that it wont stall out (I've asked around and many did NOT have this issue, while a few did), or just going with the whole GM setup (which is still lighter than ours).

    If you wouldn't mind, would you keep me/us posted as you drive the car more, and the new-ness factor wears off a bit?
    I have been running the RAM flywheel with no tune for awhile and it runs great, no stalling issues at all. It seems like some of the talk on the forums says their may be problems with a light flywheel and a cam (but then again that might be forum talk after a number of us with them had no issues.) Maybe one day i can put a nice lumpy cam in and tell you better.

  4. #19
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    Re: Installed LS7 Clutch, Flywheel, etc. - rock HARD pedal...

    I for one am very grateful to have a remote line. I don't have to get under the car, and it's nice that I don't have to be triple jointed in order to get to the stock bleeder.

    I didn't have a trans jack, but I had a helluva time getting the trans mated back up with the engine. That was the worst part of the whole deal.

    If you are worried about the grease, you could always take that flywheel cover piece off and spray some brake-kleen up in there and that would probably take off the film (if any)

    Hopefully you used this badass writeup.....
    http://www.cadillacforums.com/forums...h-install.html

  5. #20
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    Re: Installed LS7 Clutch, Flywheel, etc. - rock HARD pedal...

    yep, that Monster Clutch install thread was the most helpful online... thanks!

    and I did end up pulling the trans back out just to wipe off the grease... glad I did

  6. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dan_Gurney View Post
    I have been running the RAM flywheel with no tune for awhile and it runs great, no stalling issues at all. It seems like some of the talk on the forums says their may be problems with a light flywheel and a cam (but then again that might be forum talk after a number of us with them had no issues.) Maybe one day i can put a nice lumpy cam in and tell you better.
    And herein lies my dilemma. Last year sometime, I had a thread going (here or ls1) about who's had these issues and who hasn't. I'd say the majority said the LW FW was no prob withOUT having to do a tune. Others said the LW FW was fine, bu neglected to report that they ran a tuned vehicle. Then others reported stalling issues with the LW FW and a mixture of other mods (from stock, to cammed, to maggied).
    One things almost for sure... If it comes to a roll of the dice, I will lose. lol When it comes to things like this for me, if it can go wrong, it usually does. Thus, I'm having a hard time deciding.

  7. #22
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    Re: Installed LS7 Clutch, Flywheel, etc. - rock HARD pedal...

    Quote Originally Posted by WesH8398 View Post
    And herein lies my dilemma. Last year sometime, I had a thread going (here or ls1) about who's had these issues and who hasn't. I'd say the majority said the LW FW was no prob withOUT having to do a tune. Others said the LW FW was fine, bu neglected to report that they ran a tuned vehicle. Then others reported stalling issues with the LW FW and a mixture of other mods (from stock, to cammed, to maggied).
    One things almost for sure... If it comes to a roll of the dice, I will lose. lol When it comes to things like this for me, if it can go wrong, it usually does. Thus, I'm having a hard time deciding.
    When I first did the LW FW (UUC), my car was tuned with the OEM FW. I had no problems at all with the UUC FW. I've subsequently gone to the LS9 kit and also have no issues.

    Wes, are you running the stock tune and are you saying that there could be problems going to the LW FW without being tuned afterward?
    '05 CTS-V, Maggie, Kooks, Hotchkis, Ground Control, Corsa, B&M, DSS/Hendrix, Full 3M Clear Bra, Autovation, V Headrests, CTS Console, STS-V 55w Fogs, Black Vette FRCs, Specter Werkes, Katech LS9 Clutch, SS Brake Lines, Heavymetals U-Turn Fuel Line Eliminator, Momo Combat Evo Shift Knob, Wldwhl Clear Sidemarkers, Linea Corse LC855 Wheels or OEM wheels w/'06-'07 Center Caps, plus a couple more. 472 RWHP/411 RWTQ (Mustang Dyno).

  8. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by rand49er View Post

    Wes, are you running the stock tune and are you saying that there could be problems going to the LW FW without being tuned afterward?
    Precisely, my friend. Thanks for offering your experiences!

  9. #24
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    Re: Installed LS7 Clutch, Flywheel, etc. - rock HARD pedal...

    Quote Originally Posted by WesH8398 View Post
    Precisely, my friend. Thanks for offering your experiences!
    I wonder if there's a difference between the LS6 and the LS2 with regard to this. Guess I'd think it would be more likely with the LS6 and its high-strung nature, whereas the LS2 can use its slightly greater displacement to achieve the "400 hp" peak rating thus isn't tweaked as much. Just guessing, though.
    '05 CTS-V, Maggie, Kooks, Hotchkis, Ground Control, Corsa, B&M, DSS/Hendrix, Full 3M Clear Bra, Autovation, V Headrests, CTS Console, STS-V 55w Fogs, Black Vette FRCs, Specter Werkes, Katech LS9 Clutch, SS Brake Lines, Heavymetals U-Turn Fuel Line Eliminator, Momo Combat Evo Shift Knob, Wldwhl Clear Sidemarkers, Linea Corse LC855 Wheels or OEM wheels w/'06-'07 Center Caps, plus a couple more. 472 RWHP/411 RWTQ (Mustang Dyno).

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    Re: Installed LS7 Clutch, Flywheel, etc. - rock HARD pedal...

    I didn't expect to have a stalling issue at all (with out a cam) but I do... so the only other thing involved would be my mail order tune(?) if so, it's time for a good tune but, in the meantime, I'm thinking about re-installing my OEM ECU to see what happens...

  11. #26
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    Quote Originally Posted by jclayc View Post
    I didn't expect to have a stalling issue at all (with out a cam) but I do... so the only other thing involved would be my mail order tune(?) if so, it's time for a good tune but, in the meantime, I'm thinking about re-installing my OEM ECU to see what happens...
    Do you have a Maggie or any other major mods? If not, I would REALLY like to see the results of that little experiment. If you decide to try swapping the OEM ECU in there, please let me know what happens. I'd imagine you'd need to go through a few drive cycles to be sure that the "results" are reliable though...just a thought.

  12. #27
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    Re: Installed LS7 Clutch, Flywheel, etc. - rock HARD pedal...

    Interesting... I had my VSS and reverse solenoid wires crossed my past 2 test drives (no big deal) and had stalling. This AM, I corrected the wiring and didn't have any stalling issues. Perhaps it's because the ECU learned a little bit more or the VSS has something to do with signaling the shut off.

    Only engine mods are a FAST 92 intake & 90mm throttle body - no internals, heads, cam, blower, etc.

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    Re: Installed LS7 Clutch, Flywheel, etc. - rock HARD pedal...

    Is your 90mm tb a ls2 one? or a different one?

  14. #29
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    Quote Originally Posted by jclayc View Post
    Interesting... I had my VSS and reverse solenoid wires crossed my past 2 test drives (no big deal) and had stalling. This AM, I corrected the wiring and didn't have any stalling issues. Perhaps it's because the ECU learned a little bit more or the VSS has something to do with signaling the shut off. .
    Sorry, just making sure I'm following... You HAVEN'T swapped the OEM-tuned ECU in yet, right? So even with the W4M tune, you're no longer having stalling issues now that the VSS/Reverse wires aren't crossed anymore...right? Have you had it out for any more rides?

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    Re: Installed LS7 Clutch, Flywheel, etc. - rock HARD pedal...

    Correct, I have not swapped in the OEM ECU and my stalling issue seems to be solved.

    With the W4M tune in my first two rides out I had my VSS wire crossed w/ the reverse solenoid lock out. (No speedo working during this time.) During those 2 rides, I had stalling coming out of 4th or above into neutral. Before trying the OEM ECU, I figured I'd connect the VSS and reverse soleniod correctly and put a few more miles on it. I swapped the wires to where they're supposed to be and, when I was out, the stalling problem was gone. W4M ECU still in.

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