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2004-2007 Cadillac CTS-V Performance Mods Discussion, New to Community, any advice helps. in Cadillac CTS-V Series Forum - 2004 - 2007; eep Breath: So I have had my V for about 3 yrs now and have loved every minute of it! ...
  1. #1
    Código_Velocé's Avatar
    Código_Velocé is offline Cadillac Owners Member
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    New to Community, any advice helps.

    eep Breath: So I have had my V for about 3 yrs now and have loved every minute of it! (Need Mods! but that will come later.) Lately though the Blk Stallion has been seeing the drive way more than the road. Last year around Turkey day it started to make a clickin' noise, I have since changed the fluid and added the additive to the diff. No luck on the noise/ vibrations. (Worked for a while then the chatter started again!) I do not want to take the chance of the diff grenading on me or locking up on the freeway or street. (Babied the car since the day i got it) If any member has a 3rd or 4th Gen diff for sale please let me know. Appreciate your help and info guys.

    P.S.: I am on a budget.

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    DMM's Avatar
    DMM
    DMM is offline Cadillac Owners Fanatic
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    Re: New to Community, any advice helps.

    Is this a loud "click" noise on initial take off?

    Most likely rust between the splines of the outer CV and hub bearing. However you want to accomplish this, you have to get the outer CV out of the hub bearing and apply either lithium or a thin coat of thick moly grease to the splines of the outer CV and the hub bearing. I used to run a file through the splines but noticed this didn't really seem to make a difference, although that is what GM used to recommend.

  4. #3
    Código_Velocé's Avatar
    Código_Velocé is offline Cadillac Owners Member
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    It clicks at initial take off (normal driving) and the vibration gets worse at freeway speed... No there is no rust on the slines, the car is from California. (No Rust on the bottom at all) It also clicks when im slowing down, I dont engine brake the car when I slow down. It is a very loud click and has gotten louder since last year. I already changed the fluid per one of the instructions on the forum and it worked for a solid wk then sound/ vibration got worse. It feels like there is friction when moving and my MPG's have dropped by 1.5mpg on average.

  5. #4
    rand49er's Avatar
    rand49er is offline Cadillac Owners 10000+ Posts
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    Re: New to Community, any advice helps.

    Friction would mean something is heating up. Any chance you can get it up on ramps after a drive and feel around for a hot spot/component to better isolate it?
    '05 CTS-V, Maggie, Kooks, Hotchkis, Ground Control, Corsa, B&M, DSS/Hendrix, Full 3M Clear Bra, Autovation, V Headrests, CTS Console, STS-V 55w Fogs, Black Vette FRCs, Specter Werkes, Katech LS9 Clutch, SS Brake Lines, Heavymetals U-Turn Fuel Line Eliminator, Momo Combat Evo Shift Knob, Wldwhl Clear Sidemarkers, Linea Corse LC855 Wheels or OEM wheels w/'06-'07 Center Caps, plus a couple more. 472 RWHP/411 RWTQ (Mustang Dyno).

  6. #5
    Código_Velocé's Avatar
    Código_Velocé is offline Cadillac Owners Member
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    I took it to a shop last month and the mechanic lifted it up and showed me that the diff had a lot of play in it. I also gave it a tug and felt the play in the diff. He said there should not be that much play on the diff, I agree with him (mechanic family Friend) because when I drive the car it feels like it hesitates to put the power down. I asked another mechanic (High school Chum BMW Tech) he also said that the diff has too much play in it. He (Bimmer Mechanic) drove my car for a few days and noticed it being a bit of a pig on acceleration and also noticed the clicks at low rpm's/ speed (RPM range of 1,500-2k and speeds of 25-45 city). The clickn' sound is more like a chatter, kinda like the sound of metal clashing metal. From what I know n have felt it seems as if the diff discs are not dissingaging at the proper moment or at all for that matter.

    ** No Hot Spot Found last time I checked the diff. No leaks or anything of the sort. O.o

  7. #6
    rand49er's Avatar
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    Re: New to Community, any advice helps.

    We all have too much play on our diffs. Could you have a chipped pinion or ring gear?
    '05 CTS-V, Maggie, Kooks, Hotchkis, Ground Control, Corsa, B&M, DSS/Hendrix, Full 3M Clear Bra, Autovation, V Headrests, CTS Console, STS-V 55w Fogs, Black Vette FRCs, Specter Werkes, Katech LS9 Clutch, SS Brake Lines, Heavymetals U-Turn Fuel Line Eliminator, Momo Combat Evo Shift Knob, Wldwhl Clear Sidemarkers, Linea Corse LC855 Wheels or OEM wheels w/'06-'07 Center Caps, plus a couple more. 472 RWHP/411 RWTQ (Mustang Dyno).

  8. #7
    Código_Velocé's Avatar
    Código_Velocé is offline Cadillac Owners Member
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    That may be the case, there were a lot of metal fragments on the magnetic plug when I changed the oil. That might explain the pop I hear when I put it in first from a stop.

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    Re: New to Community, any advice helps.

    Quote Originally Posted by Código_Velocé View Post
    I took it to a shop last month and the mechanic lifted it up and showed me that the diff had a lot of play in it. I also gave it a tug and felt the play in the diff. He said there should not be that much play on the diff, I agree with him (mechanic family Friend) because when I drive the car it feels like it hesitates to put the power down. I asked another mechanic (High school Chum BMW Tech) he also said that the diff has too much play in it. He (Bimmer Mechanic) drove my car for a few days and noticed it being a bit of a pig on acceleration and also noticed the clicks at low rpm's/ speed (RPM range of 1,500-2k and speeds of 25-45 city). The clickn' sound is more like a chatter, kinda like the sound of metal clashing metal. From what I know n have felt it seems as if the diff discs are not dissingaging at the proper moment or at all for that matter.

    ** No Hot Spot Found last time I checked the diff. No leaks or anything of the sort. O.o
    The point made by DMM concerning rust on splines could stll be the issue. The rust in question can come from the factory as opposed to your local climate.

    The clutches in the limited-slip differential can make a chattering noise if the fluid has the incorrect friction coefficient caused by insufficient additive. This condiition however, only results in chattering during corners as one wheel runs at a different speed than the other. The clutches still disengage albeit with too much sticiton. It is typically audible only during slow-speed corners.

    Finally, it is theoretically possible to have too much additive in the fluid, which will cause differential clutch slippage. I don't recall any reports of that condition on this forum and do not whether it would produce an audible noise.

  10. #9
    Código_Velocé's Avatar
    Código_Velocé is offline Cadillac Owners Member
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    I see what your saying. The other route I can go is take the fluid out of the diff and buy the OEM Specific fluid from my local dealership (Along w/ Additive). This will be my third attempt at getting rid of this chatter/ vibration DarkMan. :SMH: I will change the oil this wknd and order the OEM Fluid ASAP. (FYI: I used Royal Purple, I read most ppl were using this when they did their Diff Flush.) Also, when I drained the oil on the diff it was the first time it has been changed 62k Mile Life. The service records do not show any Tranny Flush or Diff Flush, my car was a lease most of its life so I can just imagine how the previous owners were Driving it! >.< (From date of purchase I had to get the Motor Mounts changed, luckily it was under warranty) No more warranty as of last yr.

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    Re: New to Community, any advice helps.

    Quote Originally Posted by Código_Velocé View Post
    I see what your saying. The other route I can go is take the fluid out of the diff and buy the OEM Specific fluid from my local dealership (Along w/ Additive). This will be my third attempt at getting rid of this chatter/ vibration DarkMan. :SMH: I will change the oil this wknd and order the OEM Fluid ASAP. (FYI: I used Royal Purple, I read most ppl were using this when they did their Diff Flush.) Also, when I drained the oil on the diff it was the first time it has been changed 62k Mile Life. The service records do not show any Tranny Flush or Diff Flush, my car was a lease most of its life so I can just imagine how the previous owners were Driving it! >.< (From date of purchase I had to get the Motor Mounts changed, luckily it was under warranty) No more warranty as of last yr.
    The original fluid was GM 89021671 which required the additive GM 88900330. GM now specifies GM 88862624 which is not supposed to require any additive. You should verify this with your GM parts person.
    See also attached.

  12. #11
    NCOGNITO's Avatar
    NCOGNITO is offline Cadillac Owners Fanatic
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    I was one of the people with a popping noise that was caused by rust in the splines, which DMM is referencing. I'll post a link to the audio/video clips of the noise so you can compare.

    Mine could be duplicated by backing out if the garage, pulling into a parking spot and backing out when returning and eventually would occur from a stop at a stop light under 20 MPH. It took the Cadillac dealership multiple tries to find the problem and a local race shop diagnosed the problem as CV joint(s) failing.

    I wouldn't assume that since its a CA car that there's no rust in the hubs, when they get water in there it is tough for them to dry out and it's still a metal part that will rust ...

  13. #12
    Código_Velocé's Avatar
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    NCogNito, what you described sounds like what I am experiencing. Darkman, I will consult my local dealer on the correct fluid to use.

    Is there a way to get rid of the rust without having to Dissasemble the Spline Shafts? I would suppose not, but it doesnt hurt to ask.

  14. #13
    darkman's Avatar
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    Re: New to Community, any advice helps.

    Here is a how-to thread on axle replacement http://www.cadillacforums.com/forums...stall-how.html which shows how to get the hub off the axle. You would not need to pull the axle to treat the rust - which also shows up in the pictures.

  15. #14
    Código_Velocé's Avatar
    Código_Velocé is offline Cadillac Owners Member
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    Thnx Darkman, looks like I got a project this coming wknd.

  16. #15
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    DMM
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    Re: New to Community, any advice helps.

    I would advise against Royal Purple. I had a brand new GEN IV rear installed under warranty and I changed the fluid after break in using Royal Purple and had nothing but problems. It would chatter at low speeds when going straight and was much worse making turns or during parking lot maneuvers. Changed it again with Redline (within 2k miles) and never had another problem at all.

    The Redline product was noticeably better than the Royal Purple...you could feel the difference in lubricity just rubbing your fingers together with it.

    The rust on the hubs and splines has plagued GM for some time now. As I stated, GM advised to use a small file to chase each spline before reassembly...this was on the older C4 Corvettes though. GM also had a problem with the splines of the slip yoke sticking to the transfer case output shaft that would result in a "thud" during initial acceleration on the '99 Yukon's and Tahoe's. The "official" fix from GM (per TSB) was to change the transfer case fluid with auto-trak II; however, if you didn't pull the drive shaft and chase the splines you'd have a come-back waiting for you in less than thirty days.

    Off topic I know, but this has been a running problem for GM.

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