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Questions about clutch replacement for 04 CTS-V

8K views 30 replies 20 participants last post by  Toris_ls6 
#1 ·
I have an 04 CTS-V that I bought at 40k miles. I do not know if the original owner replaced any clutch parts or not before I had purchased it. I now have 75k miles on it, and have not really noticed anything wrong with the clutch, however it is a little more difficult as far as shifting goes, especially reverse.

I'm wondering what are some signs of my clutch needing to be replaced? I've been thinking about buying the whole LS7 clutch kit, but don't want to do it if it's not needed.
Thanks!
 
#3 ·
I doubt you need a clutch. But, there are two things you could do that may help you. First of all, check your hydraulic clutch fluid level. These cars are notorious for losing clutch fluid making shifting less than it can be. You could go one step further and have it replaced and bled. If you're still having problems, there are bushings that can be replaced in the linkage. There's a thread floating around by Cadzilla that is the most inclusive shifter bushing thread I've ever seen. Truly amazing.

To check your clutch, drive about 50-ish MPH in sixth gear. Push the clutch pedal in, rev the motor slightly, then let the clutch back out somewhat abruptly. If it grabs with a jerk, then it's good. If it only slowly engages, your clutch is on its way out.
 
#11 ·
My oem clutch was still going strong at 120k miles. the Dual Mass flywheel on the other hand was clunking like crazy.

I replaced mine with the katech Twin Disk. It is expensive BUT you get OEM quality, and the performance of a twin disk. One of the best mods I've done to my car. It revs like crazy now. Was blown away by the difference. I should have done this mod a LONG time ago.

-Chris
 
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#20 ·
Hahhaaha, I do wreck everything. The straps on two separate LS9 pressure plates broke on me with my 418. I went with the RPS twin which is a strapless design. It has held up for two years of my abuse. The discs are pretty worn down but nothing broke. There is a replacement pp and disc kit that is also readily available. I highly recommend staying away from a strapped design.

With my cammed LS2 I ran an LS7 clutch. Went through my first pp in about six months with many track days. It got to the point to where I couldn't push the pedal down at high rpms. The second one lasted 1.5 years and was still good when I removed it from service.
 
#22 ·
I typed that into google and my computer crashed :confused:

BTW +1 on bleeding the fluid. PITA to get to though.
 
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#25 ·
I'm so confused on clutch replacement...seems hit or miss on the forums. Seems the light flywheel can cause engine shut off at idle...pedal stomp - dies. I thought the Monster level 3 looked pretty good. Then there is the OEM competition of using the LS7 kit. Just seems so fussy for something so simple.

Glad the Monster level 1 worked out - I believe that one is the stock replacement without margin for forced induction.
 
#26 ·
To the OP, I agree with Hamstar, the trouble getting into reverse sounds more like a sagging transmission mount. Well documented on here. 75k on a stock V clutch doesn't sound like much at all. I just turned 100k, with 80k maggied and 60k me driving. Stock clutch still going strong. My tires slip all the time, though. ;)
I have funds set aside for a clutch, and I was leaning to the Katech LS9 (since they're in town) but the McLeod thread has me thinking I could save some $$ going that route. I doubt Katech would want to install a McLeod, though, so I'd have to find someone else around here for the install.

Good luck, but I'd say you got another 25k miles + to go if you're not having clutch issues.

-PJ
 
#27 ·
The OME clutch's last and last. The Dual Mass flywheel though, not so much.

I'll continue to go to bat for the Katech Clutch. OEM reliability/feel wiht twin disk performance. *ZERO* driveablity issues, even with the very light flywheel (proven in DC rush hour traffic). The only challenge is the price.

I would do it again in a heartbeat. Thinking about it for my 20k miles V2.

-Chris
 
#28 ·
Bleed the clutch first.

If you have trouble getting into reverse, go to 4th gear, then shift into reverse. Works everytime for me.

Stage 3 Monster Clutch here. If you aren't going to add 500 HP on top of what you have now, stick with the Stage 2 and you'll be happy. Stage 3 is way overkill, and chatters since it's a puck style.

Here's my writeup:

http://www.cadillacforums.com/forum...erformance/181141-monster-clutch-install.html
 
#31 ·
Heyy! So I had bought my Cts-v 2004 with 75k miles on It an had that exact same issue It turns out I thought it would of been the master slave cylinder but it’s not it’s the transmission it’s self so I am currently getting it rebuilt right now. Once it gets rebuilt I will see if that was the issue which I am 95% sure it is. If not ima go with the monster clutch kit it’s a bit more pricy but as for me seems like my best route cause I have mods on the car with planing to pro-charge it in the near future.
However when I would throw it in reverse it would jam up. Even when I would shift into second and going into first it was hell cause it would pop out of gear.
 
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