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2004-2007 Cadillac CTS-V Performance Mods Discussion, REVSHIFT Rear Cradle Busings in Cadillac CTS-V Series Forum - 2004 - 2007; ...
  1. #136
    lilgCTS-V is offline Cadillac Owners Enthusiast
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    Re: REVSHIFT Rear Cradle Busings


  2. #137
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    danrob0123 is offline Cadillac Owners Fanatic
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    Quote Originally Posted by lilgCTS-V View Post
    Thanks for the vids. I currently have the BMR cradle bushing inserts with passenger side g-force axle and wheel hop is a huge improvement over stock, but these revshift bushings are a better design than the BMR considering they are complete replacements, not just inserts. I plan on ordering these in the 95A stiffness along with all control arm bushings once they are available.
    lilgCTS-V and lilgCTS-V like this.

  3. #138
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    Re: REVSHIFT Rear Cradle Busings

    I installed my trailing arm bushings yesterday and it definitely helped to have a ball joint press on hand to get the new (red) ones in - even after freezing. I don't know that I could have gotten those in without it. We'll see how the subframe bushings go next.
    http://www.harborfreight.com/ball-jo...cles-4065.html

  4. #139
    FuzzyLogic is offline Banned
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    Re: REVSHIFT Rear Cradle Busings

    Quote Originally Posted by jclayc View Post
    I installed my trailing arm bushings yesterday and it definitely helped to have a ball joint press on hand to get the new (red) ones in - even after freezing. I don't know that I could have gotten those in without it. We'll see how the subframe bushings go next.
    http://www.harborfreight.com/ball-jo...cles-4065.html
    I would never freeze a polyurethane bushing because it barely contracts and it gets really, really hard. I installed my 95A trailing arm bushings by hand.

  5. #140
    OneFast V is offline Cadillac Owners Enthusiast
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    Re: REVSHIFT Rear Cradle Busings

    You could just get them started by hand, then stick the bolt and nut back on with a washer on the nut side and tighten them to press the bushings in.

  6. #141
    FuzzyLogic is offline Banned
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    Re: REVSHIFT Rear Cradle Busings

    Quote Originally Posted by OneFast V View Post
    You could just get them started by hand, then stick the bolt and nut back on with a washer on the nut side and tighten them to press the bushings in.
    And use plenty of lube.

  7. #142
    OneFast V is offline Cadillac Owners Enthusiast
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    Re: REVSHIFT Rear Cradle Busings

    Quote Originally Posted by FuzzyLogic View Post
    And use plenty of lube.
    Insert sexual innuendo joke here...

  8. #143
    Revshift is offline Cadillac Owners Fanatic
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    Re: REVSHIFT Rear Cradle Busings

    Quote Originally Posted by FuzzyLogic View Post
    I would never freeze a polyurethane bushing because it barely contracts and it gets really, really hard. I installed my 95A trailing arm bushings by hand.
    Quote Originally Posted by OneFast V View Post
    You could just get them started by hand, then stick the bolt and nut back on with a washer on the nut side and tighten them to press the bushings in.
    Quote Originally Posted by FuzzyLogic View Post
    And use plenty of lube.
    ^ all of the above!

    You don't want to freeze the bushings because you want them to compress while pressing them in. We designed everything to be nice and tight. A loose fit = excessive wear.
    nvthev and nvthev like this.

  9. #144
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    Re: REVSHIFT Rear Cradle Busings

    How come everyone says these don't add any noise/vibration but those old rear cradle inserts that were from Specter where known to?

  10. #145
    FuzzyLogic is offline Banned
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    Re: REVSHIFT Rear Cradle Busings

    Quote Originally Posted by DisposableHero View Post
    How come everyone says these don't add any noise/vibration but those old rear cradle inserts that were from Specter where known to?
    Probably because the Spectre inserts were Delrin, which has a Rockwell 120 (R120) durometer rating.


  11. #146
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    Re: REVSHIFT Rear Cradle Busings

    Quote Originally Posted by Revshift View Post
    There are no rear lower control arms, just trailing arms. The only thing we haven't yet released for the rear are the lower shock mounts.

    We are currently working on the production molds for the front end bushings. You can expect to see them hit the market shortly after the holidays.
    Thank you for the code. Placed order for cradle and UCA bushings. Love to see those lower rear shock bushings.

  12. #147
    xbladr is offline Cadillac Owners Fanatic
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    Re: REVSHIFT Rear Cradle Busings

    Has anyone else had any luck installing these? I am thinking about starting on this tomorrow. I will be doing the cradle and trailing arm bushings. I am thinking of using the air hammer after an earlier post suggested to see if that works. I will keep you guys posted. Did you guys just undo the 4 bolts into the cradle bushings and relieve some stress on the diff etc by jacking it up slightly? Just trying to figure out the best way to attack this whole thing.

  13. #148
    xbladr is offline Cadillac Owners Fanatic
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    Re: REVSHIFT Rear Cradle Busings

    Well I attempted this today and its going to be much more of a bitch than I had thought originally. For people replacing the trailing arm bushings how are you getting the bolt out without removing the brake caliper?

    Also I tried an air chisel/hammer as it was suggested by another forum member and there is no way that is going to work on getting the cradle bushings out. I am hoping to do the cradle bushings with the cradle still in the car anyone else have any suggestions as burning them while on the car seems like an awful idea!

  14. #149
    FuzzyLogic is offline Banned
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    Re: REVSHIFT Rear Cradle Busings

    You have to remove the caliper and rotor to do the trailing arm bushings--otherwise, you're wasting your time.

  15. #150
    OneFast V is offline Cadillac Owners Enthusiast
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    Re: REVSHIFT Rear Cradle Busings

    Like I posted on LS1tech:
    for the cradle bushings just put a jack under the diff and pull out the two cradle bolts on one side. Then lower the diff little and that side will drop. Then take the biggest drill bit you can and drill out the rubber around the center metal cylinder until you can pull it out. You may break a few bits so have extras. Then take a sawzall and saw the metal sleeve. Then take a flathead screwdriver or somethig wedge shaped and split the metal sleeve so one side pulls in and then pull the other side in and it should come right out. Then you can slide the new bushings in.

    For drill bits regular all purpose should be fine but i found these to work much faster:
    http://www.harborfreight.com/3-piece...set-42804.html

    http://www.osh.com/eng/product/rotoz..._x_bit/6569743

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